Thinking about buying a E34, what should I know?

[Nickco43]

I am looking to buy my first car and it is harder then I have ever could of imagined. How fuel effecent is the car? How safe is the car compared to a 05 corolla or civic? I heard the e34 was the most reliable BMW ever made since the 6 cylinder engine has been in production forever; Is this true? How good is it in the snow? What should I know when buying one? I seen a lot of E34s with bad transmissions, does this mean anything? What are common things to go wrong with a e34 and how cheap is it to mend it? How is it owning one?

[PorscheH6]

Any 20 year old vehicle will have issues. All cars eventually have transmission failures. An impeccably maintained E34 is something quite special. These are not fuel efficient cars if your baseline is a modern 4cyl class leader. The EPA mileage numbers are pretty accurate from what I've experienced.

The E34 has basic safety features, pre-tensioners, ABS, TCS (if equipped), single stage airbag(s). Newer cars are engineered to be safer, and are tested more rigorously. IIHS performs tests that an E34 never would have seen back in the day, like small overlap frontal impacts. A lot of newer cars don't do well in the small overlap situation.

My first car was a 94 540, it was a well loved car when I bought it, and it treated me well for many miles. You're best off finding the best one you can, and good ones are getting hard to find.

[M60B40Bimmer]

Normally most members would tell you to use the search function or read around, Which i will tell you also.

Use the magical search button, find your answers.

But here is what I have to say.


A few questions and answers

Are you a DIYer? Do you have any mechanical knowledge? Any car will be expensive to maintain if you send it to a dealer or mechanic.

"I heard the e34 was the most reliable BMW ever made since the 6 cylinder engine has been in production forever; Is this true?
Yes.

"How good is it in the snow?
As good as a rwd car can be. see link below.

"What should I know when buying one?
Check this out

"I seen a lot of E34s with bad transmissions, does this mean anything?
All vehicles can have bad trannys. Except for allison durmax transmissions. But neverless, not a big deal. I've not seen too many bad tranny e34s to give me that assumption.

"What are common things to go wrong with a e34 and how cheap is it to mend it?

The Bmw E34 is a strong car with bulletproof engines (except the nikasil V8), but around 70-120k miles, you will need to have a full bank account or good tools and understanding wife/husband.
This is what will or might happened from the most to the least probable, by the well known Bill R:
1. Self locking bolts on cam oil spray bar. Look for worn camshaft lobes from this.
2. Hood & trunk gas lifts.
3. Front suspension: tie rod ends, ball Joints, possibly struts and bearings. Thrust arm bushings.
4. Sway bar links and bushings. Rear differential mount and rear subframe bushings.
5. Fan clutch on water pump.
6. Brake rotors, pads, sensors, timing belt and tensioner (M20), brake or clutch switch.
7. Exhaust components, usually muffler. O2 sensor.
8. Heater control valve, Fan speed control whether sword or resistor pack. A/C compressor.
9. Differential speed sensor.
10. Clutch, Driveshaft ujoints center bearing guibos.
11. Radiator and hoses. Thermostat.Water pump
12. Doors restraint (the metal bar that stops the door from opening too far) is attached to the very thin metal of the door frame and is starting to fatigue and crack.
13. Gauge cluster, usually capacitors repair for 5.00in parts or purchase 750.00 rebuilt unit.
14. Steering box, excessive play on center, sometimes just an adjustment.
15. Light control module (LKM) repair or replace.
16. Seat cables modified. Arm rest repair. Door panels above armrest coming unglued.Sunroof drains plugging and sunroof seals out of aligment.
17. Wheel bearings front and rear, usually front first. Sealed unit you must buy the entire hub. Cv boots on rear axles.
18. Oil canister (oil filter housing) valve is failing. This is BMW mistake. Canister needs to be changed (M30 engine only).
19. Fuel pump relay and main relay.
20. Glove box latch.
21. Excessive play in shifter handle on automatic. Adjustment.
22. Automatic transmission depending on maintenance.
23. Timing chain tensioner.
24. Fuel pump.
25. Occasionaly an oil pump. Not that common.
26. Occasionaly a headgasket. Common on M30 engine with the coolant that had not been changed every 2 years.
27. After 400k miles, you should change your engine :-)

Taken from BMWe34.net

As far as cheapness goes. i find that parts are not expensive and I do my own work. It would be outrageously expensive if i sent it to a dealer.

"How is owning one?"

Opinionated answers. I love it.

Do you want MPG, or do you want performance.

GENERAL

For power and performance, get a 540i/6. Nothing else like it. (except for m5, obv) With the 540, you're looking at around 18 city 26 highway if you're an average driver. Less mpg if you're more spirited. Less reliable than its Inline 6 brothers, more smiles though. Good engine if its alusil. usually low mileage due to recall.

For mpg, get the 525i. Any bmw e34 engine size between the 525 and 540 is a middle between the two.

SAFETY

Don't even compare safety of a civic or corolla to BMWs. BMWs are heavy, made to keep the driver safe. It's rare to see a driver of a BMW die in an average crash w/ seatbelt airbag etc. IMHO bmws are all you should drive if you're worried about safety.

RELIABILITY (Non engine related)

"Stick with a 6-cylinder stick-shift if you want to enjoy the well-earned reputation for reliability that the E34 has. The newer the better, with '95s being the hands-down favorite for reliability and appearance. For all E34s, look for rust in the door bottoms where the lower trim clips to the door skin, worn bushings on the front and rear suspensions, including the shock mounts at the top in the rear. Shocks probably will need replacing. Door upholstery may be pulling loose. The VANOS seal may be shot. Few of the problems are major. If you shop outside Florida you can also find AST traction-control for no extra expense. Believe me, you want it. " -BMWCCA1
"On early cars check for overheating, and head damage from it. Check the plastic radiators, especially on the V8s, and just factor in replacing the radiator if you can't determine when it was last done, and replace the plastic thermostat housing on the M50TU with an after-market metal part. Early M50 sixes had a slew of bad water pumps but the later cars are no less reliable in that aspect than any other model. If you want the reliability of an E30 then stick with the '89-90 525i and you can have that same hamster-cage-like belt-driven camshaft and leaking head-gaskets that sort of poke a finger in the eye of anyone claiming M20 reliability over the M50TU." -BMWCCA1WINTER

Check out this great website. HERE


__________________________________________________ ________
basically....

E34s are the sex, and if you can find one in manual, even better. There are endless parts available since they made so damn many of them, and they're one of the last proper BMWs. That is to say, not an SUV, the naming makes sense, no silly drive by wire or electric steering, it's modern enough but everything is still physically connected. I love the E39 but not even it could say the same. The I6s are more reliable than the V8s, but almost all of the Nikasil issues that you'd find in the V8s have already happened. Just watch that the VANOS is all good if you're looking past 1992 M50-engined models, or go for the 535i to stick with the good old M30. For maximum badassery, try to find a 540i/6 Touring……Oh and the E34 M5 was the last hand built ///M car, FYI if an M5 is an option….. -gmctavish now has a V6 and a V8

[Nickco43]

Thanks for the massive amount of info.

[Binjammin]

Whichever e34 you're looking at, just remember to budget a good amount of money to keep it on the road. Then quadruple that amount, and you've got a good start. These cars are great, but they'll always have something broken on them.

[de Witt]

^ regarding the Allison "duramax" transmissions, they are pretty good but can be finicky with slip sensors. Also the transfer case came with a pump that will eventually wear through the actual case. I've had two dmax lly w allisons and I love them.


That said the e34 is pretty stout but takes maintenance.

[S61Dan]

As some of the others have said, keep extra money around for broken parts. I would not buy a 20+ year old german car if you are not going to be working on the bulk of the stuff yourself.

[bolloc]

e34's make great hobbyist cars, but as a primary vehicle, they are not so practical. The reason you are seeing many for sale with transmission problems is because they are automatics that haven't been maintained worth a damn, the repair costs are frequently 2 x 3 the value of the car. An e34 with a dodgy auto is worth no more than scrap value. Personally I would avoid an auto altogether, unless it was a pristine car and I could source a manual to swap in. Btw. It is not unusual to see a manual transmission outlast a car.

Reliability isn't about how good or proven an engine is, its everything else, cars of this age are likely to let you down. The engine can be in perfect condition but it just wont start, what's wrong? You replace all kinds of stuff chasing after what you think is wrong to find that its something else like the .. wiring, its old and corrosion is setting in, capacitors are starting to fail solder joints are breaking etc. etc...

You go out to your car and see a pool of gas under there, the tank or lines have rotted out, or you press the brake pedal it goes to the floor, brake line rotted. Which brings us to safety, old unibody cars from the snow belts are not as safe as you might think. Not all E34's are equipped with air bags either (maybe U.S. models are, some earlier Canadian models are not).

If you are on a limited budget buy a car that is common, something that parts are easily found for a cheap price. If you really have to have a 20 - 27 year old e34 then go back and read Bin's comment but start out with a reasonable budgeted amount before you quadruple... Buy the best e34 you can find, take it to a shop have it thoroughly checked out.

ohh... Unless service records indicate a recent replacement of the cooling system figure on doing that almost straight away.

Another thought, pay 3 - 4 k for a good one, spend another 2 - 4 k bringing it up to good shape, some dumb ass rear ends you, don't be upset when the insurance company pays out only 2k and writes it off.

[Nickco43]

Compared to the E39 5 series how safe is the E34? I was also considering a E39.

- - - Updated - - -

@bolloc I was looking at getting a 95 525 with driver and passenger airbags and I do have a 3-4k budget.

[BleedsBlue]

There is already a ton of good info in here. I think 3-4k is doable for a good runner with an urgent maintenance budget.

I daily drove my M5 last winter in Colorado, including a dozen trips to the slopes. Functioning LSD is nice, but new WS80s on 16" wheels is the key. The car was stable in all conditions, but with the added benefit of instant sideways on command

[Layne]

Safety: it's safe enough I'd put my own kids it. Not a big problem there. But to claim it's safer than a 2005 anything is just blatant ignorance. Watch some YouTube vids on the subject. Weight is a liability in a crash, not an asset. You have to stop that weight. Look for a video where Chevrolet crashed a new Malibu into a really nice 1958 or so car (so sad). When I was a youngster old guys blabbed endlessly about how 50's car were so safe because they're made of thick steel etc. The old car was obliterated by the Malibu. No chance the driver could survive. The E34 is better than an old car like that, but a LOT worse than a new car. Engineering has moved very fast in that dept. That said though, learn to drive properly and don't crash. Engineering is no substitute for a brain.

[lachie]

Any 20 year old vehicle will have issues. All cars eventually have transmission failures. An impeccably maintained E34 is something quite special. These are not fuel efficient cars if your baseline is a modern 4cyl class leader. The EPA mileage numbers are pretty accurate from what I've experienced.

The E34 has basic safety features, pre-tensioners, ABS, TCS (if equipped), single stage airbag(s). Newer cars are engineered to be safer, and are tested more rigorously. IIHS performs tests that an E34 never would have seen back in the day, like small overlap frontal impacts. A lot of newer cars don't do well in the small overlap situation.

My first car was a 94 540, it was a well loved car when I bought it, and it treated me well for many miles. You're best off finding the best one you can, and good ones are getting hard to find.

I'm considering a E34 or E39 540 as a first car myself. Would you recommend one generation over the other, and what would you say to watch out for when buying one?

[moroza]

Ah, the old "E34 vs E39" debate! Search for that one (spoiler alert: there's no clear winner; they're both good apart from some warts). I wouldn't recommend either for a first car, though.

[katit2]

I wouldn't recommend either for a first car, though.

Especially V8. My _personal_ opinion is that those cars will cost you as much as a brand new Honda Accord/Camry. In this case you will pay for repairs and drive old BMW. In case of H/T you will pay off loan. Pick what you want.

When I was driving E39 540i6 I kept log. It was about $2-3k per year in regular maintenance and parts(new tires every 7-10k). I did all work myself.

I think E39 and E34 should be left to people who can do work themselves.

[Kingpin025]

I do not recommend these old Bimmers as your first car either. I tried to talk my son out of his current '89 7 series but he wouldn't listen. He wishes he'd have listened now and bought a Toyota or a Honda. Trust me we all love these old cars very much, but unless you accomplish or have records showing the above list is accomplished you will get bit. Probably when you need to be somewhere the most.

[BleedsBlue]

It looks like OP ended up in an E36, which is honestly a decent first car provided one has the space and time to learn how to fix it.

Everything the last few posters has said is true (especially regarding the V8, honestly), but it IS possible however unlikely that one buys a well-maintained '90s BMW from an older enthusiast (or maintenance snob), at which point it can certainly be an oil change and tires and just drive affair. I've made a habit of buying most of my BMWs from wealthier, OCD-types who maintain them well, and those cars have paid off big time.

[katit2]

but it IS possible however unlikely that one buys a well-maintained '90s BMW from an older enthusiast (or maintenance snob), at which point it can certainly be an oil change and tires and just drive affair.

That was me with E39. I sold it in 2014 and I bet it's probably driven trouble-free somewhere without ANY work done to it. But to me, it was time for $2k in suspension parts

I've made a habit of buying most of my BMWs from wealthier, OCD-types who maintain them well, and those cars have paid off big time.

Today with modern oil change intervals and turbos even wealthy types who will maintain "per book" will sell you car which will need major work after warranty expires. I had X5 with M54 which we bought with 40k. It had 2 oil changes!!! At 15 and at 30. It was using quart per 1k. And it wasn't even turbo...

[BleedsBlue]

Today with modern oil change intervals and turbos even wealthy types who will maintain "per book" will sell you car which will need major work after warranty expires. I had X5 with M54 which we bought with 40k. It had 2 oil changes!!! At 15 and at 30. It was using quart per 1k. And it wasn't even turbo...

Oh yes, no doubt on the newer cars. It sucks because they can be such good and capable daily drivers, but they seem very risky and values have plummeted of course to match the risk.

[e30luv318i]

My first car was an E30 318i m10 got it in 1998 never had a problem with it. Till I smashed it into the jersey barrier in the snow...ahhh yes the good old days hahahahaha !

[ZUUD BYE]

It is an old girl ... Learn to Love to Work on Her Yourself (paying someone will drain you). If you can't do this buy a honda.
Pretty good in the snow with full studded snow tires.

[Jackson42]

That was me with E39. I sold it in 2014 and I bet it's probably driven trouble-free somewhere without ANY work done to it. But to me, it was time for $2k in suspension parts



Today with modern oil change intervals and turbos even wealthy types who will maintain "per book" will sell you car which will need major work after warranty expires. I had X5 with M54 which we bought with 40k. It had 2 oil changes!!! At 15 and at 30. It was using quart per 1k. And it wasn't even turbo...

...and if you had replaced the oil separator, it likely would have dropped back down to one quart per 2k. Common failure on the M54s.

[katit2]

...and if you had replaced the oil separator, it likely would have dropped back down to one quart per 2k. Common failure on the M54s.

...and I did. With all lines, upgraded version for "cold climate". Didn't help.

[GregT53]

I had X5 with M54 which we bought with 40k. It had 2 oil changes!!! At 15 and at 30. It was using quart per 1k. And it wasn't even turbo...

I have two of those. Bought one (6-speed manual) at 124K miles and another at 85K miles. The 6-speed used about a quart per 1K. I solved that problem by feeding it Rotella T-5, a 15W-40 semisynthetic oil. The other X5 gets Rotella T-6, a full synthetic which is 5W-40. The M54 is probably the best engine BMW has produced. With double VANOS and variable air intake management it produces great power and torque with very decent fuel economy.

[katit2]

I have two of those. Bought one (6-speed manual) at 124K miles and another at 85K miles. The 6-speed used about a quart per 1K. I solved that problem by feeding it Rotella T-5, a 15W-40 semisynthetic oil. The other X5 gets Rotella T-6, a full synthetic which is 5W-40. The M54 is probably the best engine BMW has produced. With double VANOS and variable air intake management it produces great power and torque with very decent fuel economy.

Greg, I have nothing against engine, it was great, I wrote somewhere already that it was most trouble-free BMW. Or maybe I should say least attention-seeking
If you bought yours new and feed good oil every 5k I bet you wouldn't have oil issues, that's what I was talking about.

I bought M3 new for this reason, I change oil every 5k with BMW M oil, as soon as it goes out of warranty I'm switching to Amsoil. Especially for new turbo engines I think it's critical to over-do on regular maintenance. And sending every oil change to Blackstone already shows that event at 5k viscosity drops below minimum.