I dont think there is a way to grease the springs, but they creak whenever I turn the wheels....should I just spray white lithium grease on them?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
you can try that grease.. with track suspension you're bound to get some creaks unfortunately. Are you sure the noise is not coming from camber plates or sway bar bushings?
I actually now have stock bearings, just teplaced them. I also just purchased new tie rods and control arms plus bushings....this suspension has probably 75k miles on it and 10 years....time to do a refresh!
I can watch the coil as my wife turns the wheel....as hard as it can be to see sound, it definitely looks and sounds like the coil
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
try the grease. There are also spring bearings you can get that are bmw race parts if grease doesn't do the trick. I had a few sets awhile ago but they are sold now.
Did you replace the metal gasket and washers as well as add grease to your strut mount bearings? My replacement strut mounts were a little dry.
I didnt replace anything besides the strut bearings....the creaking was there before replacing the bearings and exactly why I did it. Ill check to see if there are other wear parts
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
I would try these:
http://store.bimmerworld.com/torring...kit-p1858.aspx
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
The creaking is somewhat dependent on the amount of preload, if you set them too high they can creak pretty bad. Set them to where GC recommends. Once up to speed I never noticed mine creaking at the track anyhow, except maybe taking a tight corner in the paddock.
Edit to add if you don't do track days there isn't much point running these. Get a stock or a Koni with H&R OEM spring type of setup.
Last edited by bostonaudi; 07-19-2015 at 11:59 PM.
PCA HPDE Instructor
current:
2004 M3 convert 6sp man - low mileage beauty!
past:
1995 BMW M3 3.2
2004 M3 convert SMG
2003 BMW 540i6 Alpine White M sport (I want her back!)
I've had this coilover setup for 10 years....the ride is still comfortable and at speed, there is no noise...just turning at slow speeds. Guess I'll just deal with it until it really drives me nuts
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
This has nothing to do with the pre load you are hearing spring bind. Like Jason pointed out you need torrington bearings to put under the spring on the bottom it relieves the binding on the spring. Most GC plates will have a bearing of some type but they still need a bearing on the bottom of the spring to stop the binding. Basically you turn the spring moves some then pops and makes the noise with the torringtons they will move freely under load and turn conditions and should be quite.
I have ISC coilovers on my Wagonator they use a HUGE upper roller bearing and the design of them you have to run 1/2 to 3/4 inch of static pre load the height is adjusted by moving the damper up and down in the housing. Going on two years of daily use and hard track abuse zero spring binding noise..
Shoot me an email if you want the torringtons they should help. They require some maintenance but I can tell you later how to do it easily.
Gary Gray
If you can take it apart you can make it faster!
+1 here. I had installed a set, dropped it 2" all around, didn't preload anything, and it creaked like hell on turns and speed bumps. I went under, preloaded the springs(cinch up until no movement), then added adjustable links on the front to preload the sway bar. When both loaded correctly, creaks gone. Pretty simple, but coil overs need more attention than stock, things adjust on the car more often without stock.
Did jack up the rotor to simulate load as if the tire was still mounted? I have adjustable end links.....should they be adjusted the same way? Essentially, when on the ground, the end link heads should be level with the sway bar and strut, correct?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Correct, everything at
Parallel to the ground at dead load. You might be binding too, so Torrington bearings are not a bad way to go, you'll need to measure the ID and OD of the spring to make sure you get right size seating in the perches. I'd get a pair per side. This will be yet another area requiring attention as time goes on.
Wait .... you've been running the plates for TEN YEARS and haven't replaced the thrust bearings? Why are you not just calling GC and getting replacements? These are considered a wear item. I'd think the fact that they've lasted a decade is a testament to proper engineering.
I didn't realize they were a wear item, and I have been in contact with GC to have my struts rebuilt
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
It's bc the Koni/GC junk makes all kinds of noise, it's just the way they are.
My GC race plate bearings lasted well beyond 10 yrs. I finally sent one back as it was a tiny bit loose.
Calling these junk shows ignorance.
PCA HPDE Instructor
current:
2004 M3 convert 6sp man - low mileage beauty!
past:
1995 BMW M3 3.2
2004 M3 convert SMG
2003 BMW 540i6 Alpine White M sport (I want her back!)
If you're willing to deal with that racket and noise for 10 years - more power to you. I've installed a handful of their stuff, and ridden in/driven a bunch over the years. Even the taiwanese coilovers are silent. There's significantly higher quality parts out there that don't sound like your coilovers are going to fly apart everytime you turn and hit a bump. Almost ever GC part I've installed I've had to call because 1, it didn't come with instructions, and 2, there's always something about their stuff that doesn't make any sense. I'd rather run something from Turner, or Rogue, or any number of other vendors instead.
Sounds like a problem with the person behind the wrench, not the part. I'd forgotten how junky those konis are .... terrible I tell you, just like them fords and mercedes.
Last edited by SkiFree; 08-08-2015 at 01:55 AM.
Right, Konis, they're suck a kickass damper (rolleyes)....lets not forget that I'm the guy that did this a few years back: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3LPAKenLA8
I actually like my KONIs compared to the bilsteins on my e30....and have had them replaced under warranty after 60k miles....cant beat that
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
My GC plates never made noise even when one became a smidge loose.
Really don't get the Koni hate, for the rest of the world (except Georgia) they've worked pretty well, including over here in SC.
PCA HPDE Instructor
current:
2004 M3 convert 6sp man - low mileage beauty!
past:
1995 BMW M3 3.2
2004 M3 convert SMG
2003 BMW 540i6 Alpine White M sport (I want her back!)
My bet is strut mounts needs replaced.
I replaced the strut mounts because of the noise....noise still there. With the wheels in the air, it is apparent that the noise is coming from the spring area
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
If you're using the Ground Control RACE camber plates they do require servicing every so often. The last time I serviced them I used a high temp moly grease because it can handle the conditions and the pressure of being in a camber plate and I haven't heard any noise for the last 3 months. Also as mentioned earlier make sure you don't overtighten the top nut, that binds up the system and makes them pop and creak like crazy.
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