Did the front endlinks make any appreciable difference in the handling? How did you know they needed replacement?
My 3rd brake light had some bulbs that burnt out. Apparently the stock incandescent bulbs are soldered on there so you can't replace them easily. I upgraded to an LED strip made by Robb1887 including an optional flasher. The constant flashing is probably annoying to the guy behind me and almost certainly illegal. Worth it if it prevents somebody from rear-ending me.
20% off Koni shocks -- don't mind if I do. Also ordered the Rogue Engineering rear shock mounts. Install coming this weekend.
Last edited by OCRentAPopo; 05-18-2016 at 10:51 AM.
I found an automotive smell worse than old gear oil -- old shock oil. Koni install with stock springs is complete. The original shocks were very dead and the car's ride and handling are drastically improved. The rear install was the worst but, thanks to Rogue Engineering shock mounts, will be easy in the future. No photos of the Koni insert install in the fronts because everything got sprayed with shock fluid.
Last edited by OCRentAPopo; 05-23-2016 at 11:07 AM.
Upgraded the C33 with broken volume knob and dim screen to a CD43 with functional everything and new volume knob. The sound quality is noticeably better as well. Thanks Pap! GROM coming soon.
Showed the Coupe a little love on Sunday. Poor thing gets no attention as the E36 takes all my time.
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Transmission: Amsoil Synthetic Synchromesh Transmission Fluid
Differential: Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic 75W140
Motor: Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W40
Based on the reviews here, I changed the fluids in my Z3M from whatever the PO put in there to Amsoil. This was primarily a maintenance flush as I did not know the age of the fluid that was in there and I thought the shifter felt too notchy and sometimes would not go into gear on the first try. The detent pins definitely need a refresh as the shifter leans to the right, especially when cold.
The fluid that came out of the transmission looked and smelled in decent shape. With the Amsoil in for a couple weeks now, I think that the notchiness remains but the shifter has yet to refuse to enter a gear. That was a very rare problem, though, so we'll see if it returns or not. The lean is still there when cold but perhaps reduced. Hard to tell as it's been very warm here recently.
Overall, a pretty minor improvement -- certainly nothing like the OMG reviews in the Amsoil thread. I suspect that my minimal improvement is due to 1) good condition of the existing fluid and 2) poor condition of my detent pins. As it turns out, fluids aren't magic -- and I wasn't expecting them to be. Also, great customer service from 2kredz3. Worth buying from him simply for the knowledge he provides on this forum.
Since I bought the car, the rear wheels have been tucked a bit inboard into the rear wheelwells. 255/35/18 tires on 18x9.5, et20 wheels will do that on this car.
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I added some 20mm ECSTuning spacers and extended bolts to get the wheels to zero offset (et 0) and it looks dramatically better. I think I'd go for 25mm spacers if I were to do it again but I'm happy with it for now.
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Also picked up some race rubber for the Spec3 car. Three 225/50/15's fit just about perfectly in the back:
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Despite the Z3M being a pretty dang good drivers' car, this particular Z3MC has never really handled well. The car feels unsettled, particularly under braking, and I never could get it to slide around predictably. The rear tires needed replacing and I noticed that the right rear tire was worn significantly more than the left rear. Turns out the left rear is 0.02 toe out while the right rear is 0.49 toe out. Yikes. I hoped new tires and an alignment would fix everything only to discover that BMW opted for a non-adjustable rear end. Top work, Burkhard. Time for a bit of an overhaul. The following parts are on the way:
Inner/outer tie rods
Steering rack dust boots
Garagistic rear subframe adjustable camber/toe kit
Garagistic poly differential bushing
Garagistic poly rear control arm bushings
Last edited by OCRentAPopo; 11-21-2017 at 10:22 AM.
Quite the weekend of DIY. My brother and I pulled the rear subframe as a whole unit -- then prepped for welding on the Garagistic camber/toe kit. We also installed poly bushings in the rear trailing arms and the differential. Then we finished the alignment weekend with new inner and outer tie rods and dust boots.
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This is what a mostly removed rear-end looks like:
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Welded and painted rear subframe:
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Close-up of one of the mounting points for the rear trailing arms -- with new plates welded in place and holes milled out to slots for adjustability:
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Took the car for an alignment and rear toe on the passenger side is much better. I'll have to take it for a proper test drive to see if the new settings make it more stable. I expect the results will be drastically better -- and my tires will last longer!
Last edited by OCRentAPopo; 12-18-2017 at 05:23 PM.
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