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Thread: Justin's LS E46

  1. #76
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    It feels like Christmas morning!




  2. #77
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    The heart have arrived!
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  3. #78
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    So, still not too much going on around here. Divorced the engine/trans to take a look at the clutch, it was in OK but holy crap the CTS-V clutch/flywheel combo is HEAVY.(google tells me its 80lbs). I am planning on some power mods next winter, so I decided to go ahead and upgrade now. I ordered the Monster Iron 11" Clutch package (rated at 950hp) with the Monster 18lb flywheel and their billet release bearing support. The clutches are built after ordering so I should see it in 2-3 weeks.

    Installed the Holley LSx swap pan with the Holley trap door baffle:
    windage tray mods:


    baffle installed


    pan on


    I am still waiting on Vorshlag to send out the steering shaft and the headers. Still waiting on my SLR angle kit as well. I also ordered a fire supression system from Bimmerworld. I am also going to go see if I fit in a set of Bimarco seats they have at the roll cage shop and will probably get those on order as well.

  4. #79
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    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  5. #80
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    Went and visited the car over at Rally.Build tonight, there's a bit of progress made on the cage but my phone broke so no pictures. I mainly went to try out a seat they carry there called the Bimarco Grip. HANS compatible, FIA approved, "Halo" style, for significantly less than a comparable Sparco. It was extremely comfortable (which is rare for a race seat when you're my size) and has good reviews from people who have been using them, So I decided to get one on order. I also ordered the non halo version for the passenger seat. I am working with Rally.Build on a pair of harnesses to compliment them, as well as a steering wheel, hub, and Hydro brake. Decided just to tie in to the rears this season and then look at going dual caliper next winter.

  6. #81
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    you are funny, your garage is way too clean and you take care of that floor way too much ! haha ... very very interesting build, looks like you are doing things right .... but welded diff ? looks like it's holding up but doesn't look like much reinforcement ... the middle plate is useless ... what you want to do on a welded diff is weld the spider gears together, and then weld them to the "casing", and that can take a whole lot of beating.

    I would also advise against tying a hydro hand brake into your existing braking system ... now I can't talk about cars but on a stunt motorcycle, it doesn't work well when you split the line into the existing caliper, the feel of the brake is not there, it's just not working like it should.

    the LS engines are so awesome, the torque is very nice, and they are super easy to make 400hp, the stock bmw engine in your videos seemed like it was lacking power/torque. won't have that problem no more. I have a lq4 and ls3 intake waiting to go into my e21 ... I am shopping now for DOM tubing for the roll cage ...

    do you know what size tubing they are using on your roll cage ?

    keep the updates coming, lots of good info on this thread, I think I started my thread in the wrong section !

  7. #82
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    inline hydros work just fine with cars - only downside is if you want to slow the front wheels down while you're getting on the ebrake - it just really doesn't work. justin you'll be fine with an inline hydro for now, but i think having dual rear calipers is part of the proam safety inspection. or maybe that's formula d, i can't remember which.

    canada guy, you'd be surprised as to how much of a beating those welded diffs will take. you may have glazed over the picture of the spider gears after seeing the metal plate, but it does look like OP welded the gears together. somewhat. i don't know how well it's gonna hold up under LS drift powah though. my plan is to figure out how to get a ford 8.8 IRS in. those are fairly cheap and you can pretty much get any gear ratio for them
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  8. #83
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    He is using 1.5" per the rulebook
    [QUOTE]Roll Cage Material must be Seamless SAE 1020 or 1025 mild steel tubing, DOM, and or chromoly. ERW tubing isnot permitted. All roll cage tubing in the requirements listed below must be a minimum of 1.5 x .095-inch for allmaterials. The minus tolerance for wall thickness should not be less than .010-inch below the nominal thickness./QUOTE]

    As far as the hydro goes, I know it's not the most ideal setup, which is why I say I'm going to sort out dual calipers next winter (if I have a problem with it inline). I just don't have time to add that to my to-do list before the season opener. The FD 2015 rulebook states that
    Secondary hydraulic e-brake systems are allowed either as a fully separate system or as a pass through system.Secondary Brake system / E-brake must only operate the rear wheels.
    so I think I am ok to run an inline?

    The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now. There are plans for a supercharger eventually though.

    When I did the diff, I welded the corner gears to each other, then the center gears to the plate. I see a lot of people just weld the 4 corners of the gears together, but the way I did mine is what's recommended on a lot of the crawler forums. I don't think it will be an issue, as Jalopi pointed out in a different thread, my axles are my weak link back there.

    I am such a baby about that floor, haha.

  9. #84
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    does you dip stick lineup with the holley oil pan? If not what are you doing for that?

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now...
    Not that it matters much, but these numbers are more of a wishfull thinking. With a track type of tune you'll be lucky to get 370whp.

    6.0L LS2 with CAI, headers, dual 3" exhaust made just over 370 at the wheels with a very good track safe tune. Now if you're talking about dyno-queen tune, that is a different story.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  11. #86
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    Based off research, I did as much as I could short of going accusump/drysump on the LS to prevent oil starvation.

    -Improved Racing Baffle
    -Improved racing crank scrapper
    -Drilled lifter trays
    -Drilled oil pan return hole
    -AN-10 19 row oil coole
    r-Mellings high pressure oil pump

    My oil pressure is 40+ with occasional drops to 25-30 during hard left handers on 275 r-comps. I am a bit worried that with better suspension and stickier tires next year that I'll be hitting way too high lateral G's to track without an accusump.

    I'd like to be able to data long my oil pressure, but I'd have to buy a $2000 data logging system.

    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now. There are plans for a supercharger eventually though.
    You'll hit 370-380 depending on the dyno.I have LS6 heads, intake and cam. I made 365rwhp and 407rwtq. I'm going to sit down with my tuner and see if we can make more torque in the higher RPM's and drop the torque down in the lower RPM's, it's destroying diff bolts left and right
    Last edited by Inflame; 11-05-2015 at 11:31 AM.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by btaLSM3 View Post
    does you dip stick lineup with the holley oil pan? If not what are you doing for that?
    I didn't have a dipstick. The Holley specifies to use the LS3 dipstick, P/N 12634547 and P/N 12625031 with their pan. The dipstick hole is in the side of the block by the starter.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Not that it matters much, but these numbers are more of a wishfull thinking. With a track type of tune you'll be lucky to get 370whp.

    6.0L LS2 with CAI, headers, dual 3" exhaust made just over 370 at the wheels with a very good track safe tune. Now if you're talking about dyno-queen tune, that is a different story.
    I mean, that's fine with me too. I don't really care much about numbers, I'd rather have a safe well set up car then a high dyno sheet. Like I mentioned earlier, engine mods are coming next season once we know the engine is in good shape.

  13. #88
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    ^ that is exactly right. Numbers don't mean much. It's all in your enjoyment and performance of the car.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inflame View Post
    Based off research, I did as much as I could short of going accusump/drysump on the LS to prevent oil starvation.

    -Improved Racing Baffle
    -Improved racing crank scrapper
    -Drilled lifter trays
    -Drilled oil pan return hole
    -AN-10 19 row oil coole
    r-Mellings high pressure oil pump

    My oil pressure is 40+ with occasional drops to 25-30 during hard left handers on 275 r-comps. I am a bit worried that with better suspension and stickier tires next year that I'll be hitting way too high lateral G's to track without an accusump.

    I'd like to be able to data long my oil pressure, but I'd have to buy a $2000 data logging system.



    You'll hit 370-380 depending on the dyno.I have LS6 heads, intake and cam. I made 365rwhp and 407rwtq. I'm going to sit down with my tuner and see if we can make more torque in the higher RPM's and drop the torque down in the lower RPM's, it's destroying diff bolts left and right
    Dang, all I did was the Holley road race trap door baffle. Couldn't you just install a mechanical gauge and point a gopro at it? Not exactly "logging" but that's what I was planning on doing at first. Hopefully that's sufficient.

  15. #90
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    a 3 quart accusump will help with those oil pressure drops, it's a bit pricey at $500 for a full kit (or $300 if you have access to a lathe) but that's very cheap insurance for saving a multi-thousand dollar engine
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  16. #91
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    [QUOTE=Novablue454;28904644]He is using 1.5" per the rulebook
    Roll Cage Material must be Seamless SAE 1020 or 1025 mild steel tubing, DOM, and or chromoly. ERW tubing isnot permitted. All roll cage tubing in the requirements listed below must be a minimum of 1.5 x .095-inch for allmaterials. The minus tolerance for wall thickness should not be less than .010-inch below the nominal thickness./QUOTE]

    As far as the hydro goes, I know it's not the most ideal setup, which is why I say I'm going to sort out dual calipers next winter (if I have a problem with it inline). I just don't have time to add that to my to-do list before the season opener. The FD 2015 rulebook states that so I think I am ok to run an inline?

    The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now. There are plans for a supercharger eventually though.

    When I did the diff, I welded the corner gears to each other, then the center gears to the plate. I see a lot of people just weld the 4 corners of the gears together, but the way I did mine is what's recommended on a lot of the crawler forums. I don't think it will be an issue, as Jalopi pointed out in a different thread, my axles are my weak link back there.

    I am such a baby about that floor, haha.
    well that's good, I wasn't sure what rule book you were going off of ... so formula D right ?
    and yeah about the plate in the diff I've read that before too, it's extra bracing, I just don't think it is necessary if you did weld the spider gears together and weld the gears to the casing... but either way, if it's not the weakest point you don't have to worry ...

    well that's good to know that it works well on a car to just split the line !

    I know you said your stock clutch setup weighted at around 80 lbs and that your new flywheel was 18lbs, how heavy was the complete new setup compared with the stock ?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by jalopi View Post
    inline hydros work just fine with cars - only downside is if you want to slow the front wheels down while you're getting on the ebrake - it just really doesn't work. justin you'll be fine with an inline hydro for now, but i think having dual rear calipers is part of the proam safety inspection. or maybe that's formula d, i can't remember which.

    canada guy, you'd be surprised as to how much of a beating those welded diffs will take. you may have glazed over the picture of the spider gears after seeing the metal plate, but it does look like OP welded the gears together. somewhat. i don't know how well it's gonna hold up under LS drift powah though. my plan is to figure out how to get a ford 8.8 IRS in. those are fairly cheap and you can pretty much get any gear ratio for them
    well hopefully the car breaks loose before the diff takes too much of a beating ... I don't think he will have a problem, it's not like a drag car with big slicks that pulls wheelies ! haha

  17. #92
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    yeah, i think his axles are gonna go first. about 400 wheel is what i hear the limits of the non-M axles are

    on another note, it's interesting to see LS guys actually talking about their engines putting down realistic power figures. most of the forums/posts i'm used to go something along the lines of "so i put a cam and headers on my otherwise stock LS1, now it puts down 600 wheel"
    Last edited by jalopi; 11-05-2015 at 04:00 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  18. #93
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    At the event I went to, there was a long straight in to a slightly uphill long bank. I was initiating at about 3000 rpm in 4th, Not sure what speed that equates to. Basically I was downshifting to almost rev limiter in 3rd, and staying at WOT through the whole bank. If I managed to carry enough speed to make it across the bank, I was bogged down to almost stalling by the end, even though I never lifted. I just want enough power to be able to maintain speed through situations like that. If 370 does it, perfect, less to worry about. If I feel like I need more, then i'll be looking in to forced induction.

    I could be totally wrong, but I am thinking that drift wont pull near the G's of road race. I see guys with super wide sticky tires grip racing and saying the LS oil system is junk and can't live on a track. I am also hoping that the lack of grip might help my axles/diff last longer. The only reason I've gotten away with running a 496 Stroker through a stock 10 bolt with a spool is because it wont grab at all.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh, and I haven't gotten the clutch in the mail yet, when I do I will weigh it complete vs the stock one and let you know! And yes, I'm basing everything off the 2015 Formula D rulebook, the Pro-Am series I am going to participate in doesn't have a separate one anywhere I can find, so I assume they just use the FD one since it's an affiliate series.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh, and this showed up today!
    Last edited by Novablue454; 11-05-2015 at 07:39 PM.

  19. #94
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    I agree, I don't believe drifting has the same forces that are factored into road racing though I always see LS swapped drift cars with accusumps.

  20. #95
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    It's definitely something to look in to doing, that's for sure. This project is getting more and more complicated by the minute. I am now looking in to doing an electric remote water pump (Meziere WP316s has good reviews) along with their adapter plates on the block. It concerns me how small of hose all these companies use for their water pumps though.#12an (.75id) seems really small for radiator hoses. I am also toying with the idea of electric p/s, but that's a project for next winter. I'm looking in to the Chase Bays Brake Booster delete/proportioning valve as well, but I am going to test fit the engine before I go that route.

    Is it necessary to remove the ABS pump, or will the brakes still function normally with it unplugged?

  21. #96
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    yeah, 12AN is a bit on the small side, but just remember that the water passages going from the block to the water pump aren't that big either. i'd still use 16AN though, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends.

    you also gotta remember that most of these parts are made and advertised with drag racers in mind, they don't need the cooling for as long as we do

    on the subject of brakes, they'll work just fine with the ABS pump disabled, though it wouldn't be too hard to reline the car and save (maybe 5 pounds?) some weight by removing it

    that booster is no bueno though. well, as they picture it anyway. for a single master setup, you really need a tandem master cylinder for safety. i mean, a single piston wilwood master will function just fine, i had one for a few years. i do cringe when i think about what could've happened if one line started leaking though
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalopi View Post
    yeah, 12AN is a bit on the small side, but just remember that the water passages going from the block to the water pump aren't that big either. i'd still use 16AN though, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends.

    you also gotta remember that most of these parts are made and advertised with drag racers in mind, they don't need the cooling for as long as we do
    I was under the impression I needed to run like 20an or so for the coolant hoses, but every single high flow pump (both engine mounted and remote) are 12an. It's weird.

    I'm not too concerned about the brake booster elimination unless the LS valve cover contacts the booster, then i'll have to start seriously looking at options.

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inflame View Post
    I agree, I don't believe drifting has the same forces that are factored into road racing though I always see LS swapped drift cars with accusumps.
    I talked with a guy that was drifting a ls1 chaser and he said that what some people do when drifting with LS engines is run them with extra oil to help the starvation issue ... and I believe he said that even with drifting there's enough G's to run into starvation problems ...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    It's definitely something to look in to doing, that's for sure. This project is getting more and more complicated by the minute. I am now looking in to doing an electric remote water pump (Meziere WP316s has good reviews) along with their adapter plates on the block. It concerns me how small of hose all these companies use for their water pumps though.#12an (.75id) seems really small for radiator hoses. I am also toying with the idea of electric p/s, but that's a project for next winter. I'm looking in to the Chase Bays Brake Booster delete/proportioning valve as well, but I am going to test fit the engine before I go that route.

    Is it necessary to remove the ABS pump, or will the brakes still function normally with it unplugged?
    just curious as what is the advantages of running an electric water pump ? what is wrong with the original one ?

  24. #99
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    i mean, i'm personally using 1.5" hose on all my stuff, but i'm not using braided hose on my car (too damn expensive)

    go for the 20AN then, it's probably a good idea. what i was trying to get at is if you put real front tires on a dedicated drag car and took it out drifting, most of them would have much bigger cooling issues than we do. many of the electric pump guys are only rocking the 20-30GPM pumps, as that's all they need to cool their cars. some guys even half fill their coolant passages with concrete or epoxy so that they can run big power adders without risking splitting the block. once again, absolutely no way this would work on the street or on a drift/roadrace track.

    i haven't done this myself yet, but i'd do some research to see what people do for electric setups on road race cars... that's even if they do use electric water pumps on road race cars, i wouldn't know. but odds are if it works good enough on a road race car, it will probably work just fine on your drift car


    butte, the real big plus about electric pumps is that you can finish your run, shut the engine off but leave the fan and water pump running (doing that with a mechanical pump will heat soak the hell out of your engine). very nice to have if you're running hot. the downside is you have to spend alot of money on an electric pump to even compare to the performance of a mechanical pump
    Last edited by jalopi; 11-06-2015 at 02:10 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  25. #100
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    Butte, I'm looking at an electric pump for a few reasons. #1 being that I am doing a trunk mounted radiator. From what I've found the OEM pump is about 35gpm @ 4000 rpm. The Meziere I listed above is rated at 55gpm, so it will help with flow to/from the trunk and through the much larger then OEM radiator. #2 being that I want to run AN hose from the engine to the pipes running to the trunk. With the OEM pump I will have to remove it, take it to someone with a TIG, and get AN fittings welded in to it. It just doesn't look as clean that way. #3 being that it frees up a negligible amount of HP from the engine. I'm sure it's not a noticeable amount though.

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