Gear Shift Selector Switch Replacement

[Craigtd]

I have been having a problem with cruise control disengaging and the "E D" light not appearing in the transmission portion of the display (it will go on, but won't stay on). Cruise control works in "S 4" and the display shows all the other positions such as "E P" "E R" "E N" "E 4" etc. etc. While the display doesn't bother me, I want cruise control functional for an upcoming road trip. Unless someone has a different idea, I think the problem resides in the Gear Selector Switch.

Problem one, I could not find a part number for the switch on realoem. The switch is not listed in either the gearshift, AT, electrical or any other logical parts list. Anyone know where to find it?

Problem two, I can't remove the Gear Selector Switch because of the Interlock mechanism is in the way. The anchor bolt for the interlock cable is directly above one of the two screws that hold the Gear Selector Switch in place. (Interestingly, the Bentley manual does not address this. The pictures of the Gear Shift Sector Switch are all from a car without the interlock mechanism.) The problem is there is no apparent way to remove the Interlock anchor bolt. There is literally no hex, allen, slotted or philips head on the end of it. It looks like it was designed to inhibit removal, which would be fine if it weren't in the way of the Gear Selector Switch. Any suggestions?

[shogun]

That is apparently only on U.S. spec cars with the interlock, my cars do not have that, never seen a real one, someone from the U.S. with such a system has to chime in.
Have you checked the shop manual? That is U.S. based https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/

[Craigtd]

Thanks Shogun. I did not know about the link to the shop manual. At least it references the interlock mechanism, which gives me an idea of what I need to do to get at the selector switch.

[shogun]

What is the VIN of the car, then a 740 owner or others can find the part number of the switch.
The interlock system is shown here based on a 02/1994 U.S. 740iL http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=25_0510
Or only as GEAR SHIFT LUG complete? 25161219206

This gear selector switch is for E32 740, but only up to 09/1992 they mention there, 25161219149 http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E32-740...train/ES47784/

[Craigtd]

The VIN number is WBAGD8327PDE87554.

I saw that diagram in realoem and the part on ecs tuning, too. After reviewing the shop manual link, "the no further intervention" comment on realoem and "only up to 09/1992" comment on ecs tuning make sense: the interlock introduced in 1993 models is designed not to be removed. Unfortunately, this also prevents you from accessing the gear selector switch that needs to be serviced. It appears that you have to replace the entire shift lug assembly. (I hate it when bureaucrats and attorneys override good design and engineering).

I ran the part number and got prices of $270 and $314 for the "Shift Block" assembly, which more than doubles the price of the switch and involves considerably more work changing and adjusting cables, etc. Hopefully, someone else has encountered this issue and can offer a work around.

As always, thank you Shogun for your assistance and guidance.

[LysanderSpooner]

An old thread I know, but I just encountered the same issue. I need to get that switch out to replace it... Beuller...? Here is the switch, and just to the left of the allen tool you can see the open hole where the interlock pin would be:

console4.jpg

[shogun]

from BMW you only get it as one piece, ETK says: Gear shift lug INTERLOCK 25161219206, No further intervention permitted
So officially there is no way to disassemble it and no instructions in the workshop manuals. I have a pic of an E34 with interlock for reference, if you want to drill the bolts out at your own risk.....
interlockE34.JPG

[LysanderSpooner]

Funny, that photo shows exactly where I was at yesterday trying to work on it. I am still trying to figure out how to get this thing apart for repairing the switch and then putting it back together without losing the interlock function.

The issue is that the pivot pin for the interlock was apparently swedged in place (at #1 in my marked up photo) after the rest of the whole unit was assembled. But I still don't see how the interlock pawl (just to the left of and parallel to the switch #3) got installed with the pin if the pin was inserted from the right and then swedged at #1, because the switch would be in the way. I'm afraid that if I grind/cut off the head of the pin that it sill won't out to the right with the switch in the way. And any effort to cut it at #2 seems out of the question. What a conundrum!

I was able to pull the cover off the switch and do some cleaning, which helped a bit. At least now I get P-R-N-D, but then it skips to 2-BLANK-2 for the rest of the positions. It also seems like the little swiper that is attached to the gear lever has more left to right travel than it should due to wear. Perhaps I can go back in there and glue in a very thin shim on its left side that will force to to make better contact with the switch body contacts. Sheesh.

interlockE34.jpg

[dcs71]

I have the same issue, EP displays then goes away and the interlock is in the way to remove the selector hope we can find the answer

[ross1]

I dealt with this a long time ago and memory is fuzzy, so this is the best I can offer.
I somehow seem to recall the security bolt (pivot pin)was pressed in and not threaded, again memory is fuzzy. You may want to try grind a slot in the bolt head to see if it does turns out.
I do NOT recall resorting to destructive methods so it's do-able. I may have loosened the bolts and lifted the mechanism while doing so leaving the one bolt captured by the pivot.
sorry I don't have more. If something comes back I'll post it.
FWIW your diagnosis, the switch, seems a sound one.

[dcs71]

Hi all i managed to get mine off,
First i took off the sirclip on the end if the gear inerlock watch out you dont lose the little spring, then i unbolted the bracket that holds the cable in place to the interlock, then you can take the cable off the lock, then unbolt the interlock from the shift and you can then remove the lock ans then have full access to the two allan keys to the shifter.
sorry this is a mouthful and not sure if all looks the same, i did not take a video as was not sure this would work, in all took less than 5 minutes to remove and no cutting or breaking of anything

[LysanderSpooner]

Hi all i managed to get mine off,
First i took off the sirclip on the end if the gear inerlock watch out you dont lose the little spring, then i unbolted the bracket that holds the cable in place to the interlock, then you can take the cable off the lock, then unbolt the interlock from the shift and you can then remove the lock ans then have full access to the two allan keys to the shifter.
sorry this is a mouthful and not sure if all looks the same, i did not take a video as was not sure this would work, in all took less than 5 minutes to remove and no cutting or breaking of anything

If I am following you correctly by "lock" you mean the aluminum pawl that pivots up and down on the pin and does the actually locking.

About four posts up I posted a pic with numbers, and in that pic the locking pawl runs vertically between #2 and #3. I have tried removing it once and I could not get the lock pawl to slide off past the switch. Then again, I have the switch with a yellow plastic body, and as shogun mentioned elsewhere, different color plastic means different switches for various E32 variants (mine being an Oct. '93 740i). It's quite possible that the yellow switch is taller and interferes in a way that the white bodied one doesn't. Anyhow I will try removing it again.

By the way, I found an E34 at the local PUP that had the locking system, but with a 13mm hex bolt at #1 in my pic (reattached below) instead of the conical head. I held the square locking nut (#2) with a spanner wrench and was able to back the pivot pin out of the nut and remove it from the locking assembly. I bought it but I have since managed to misplace it, so I can't post a picture of it.

interlockE34.jpg

[LysanderSpooner]

I worked on this yesterday with some success. I was able to back the pivot pin out with vise grips while holding the square lock nut with a 13mm spanner to keep from breaking the surrounding aluminum. I then ground two flats on the pivot pin so that I could reinsert it with a 7/16" spanner.

IMG_7531.jpg

IMG_7532.jpg

I took the switch apart, bent the little wipers slightly to give them more tension, and cleaned all contacts with 320 grit sandpaper:

IMG_7529.jpg

However... I'm still seeing the same intermittent weirdness in the dash display, though less often. Is there any other component that could be causing this?

[shogun]

Broken wire or contact between there and the cluster, which still most of the time has contact? your car should have a blue back cluster http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...3-2-bl-mod.jpg
pinout X16 http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...ung-x16-93.pdf
pinout X17 http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...legung-x17.pdf
pinout X271 http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...egung-x271.pdf
pinout X502 http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...egung-x502.pdf
X502 shows automatic transmission indication for pins ( E = Eingang in German = input)
4 E 0,5 sw/br Automatikgetriebe Anzeige
5 E 0,5 bl/sw Automatikgetriebe Anzeige
6 E 0,5 bl/ws Automatikgetriebe Anzeige
11 E 0,5 br/ws Automatikgetriebe Anzeige
and trans program pins
8 E 0,5 ge/bl Kontrolllampe Getriebeprogramm
9 A 0,5 ge/ws Kontrolllampe Getriebeprogramm

In 2008 I had a problem with the cluster , the RPM indicator as well as the econometer moved sometimes not or erratically. Soldering of some points solved that (cold solderings). but on a grey back plate cluster and my wrenching buddy soldered the pins in the cluster where the plug is connected, pics http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/569942/

Instrument cluster testing, repairing, replacing, before redesign 01/1989 http://web.archive.org/web/200407041...rlycluster.jpg

Do you have a spare cluster which you could swop in for a test?

[LysanderSpooner]

Thanks for that info, and yes my cluster is blue on the back. I will first try cleaning the contacts at the plug on the back, and if that doesn't work I will figure out where I might need to re-flow the solder. Hopefully it's one of those two issues.

[dcs71]

Hi All, had my car scanned and the error came back as the Throttle valve sensor, so i bought one and fitted it, purrs like a kitten now and smooth gear changes and now the E & P are back working on the dash yayayaya change gears and the P changes to R, N, D and 1234 also the S, E & * is working so happy

[shogun]

Thanks for the info, good feedback. I remember a similar case on a German forum, translated: M60 with 5HP30 had a problem with rough shifting when changing gear (upshift) for a long time. In the end, the gearbox was even replaced, but it didn't bring any improvement. The effect was as follows: For example, when accelerating to approx. 50 km / h (no matter how quickly) and releasing the accelerator pedal, the subsequent gear shift 2-3 was very rough. The engine was just above idle speed when touring.
The same problem occurred in principle with every gear change if this followed after an acceleration phase. Gear changes during acceleration were unremarkable.
After various specialists had tried out the problem with reading out, various software versions of the AGS, conversion to EGS, revision of the control unit, rinsing, oil change and laying on of hands, the resignation came at some point in the way "is so - you just have to live with it". Similar to a dachshund owner, he also has to cope with the fact that the critters have a crooked chassis.
When I last ordered spare parts, I also ordered a throttle potentiometer. The installed part was completely inconspicuous and all measurements in the standard. There were also no "dropouts" in any position (check via values ​​on the CAN bus). Mileage 235tkm.
Nevertheless, the change has brought almost complete healing. A small jerk is still there, but unlike before it is hardly noticeable.I still cannot justify the change, I am completely at a loss as to the connection between the error pattern and the solution.

[LysanderSpooner]

Hi All, had my car scanned and the error came back as the Throttle valve sensor, so i bought one and fitted it, purrs like a kitten now and smooth gear changes and now the E & P are back working on the dash yayayaya change gears and the P changes to R, N, D and 1234 also the S, E & * is working so happy

This issue should get a LOT more attention! I recently replaced my M60 with 264k miles with another one that had 159k. I used all of the components from the lower mileage engine including the TPS. I tested it with a meter before installing, and it seemed to be well within spec. The car ran pretty well, but the shifts were a bit rough, particularly after hard acceleration and then an easing of the throttle as Shogun mentioned.

After reading your post I purchased this ~$40 part from FCP Euro that had five 5 star ratings, several of which confirmed what both you and Shogun had stated. And sure enough, noticeably smoother running and shifting were apparent right off the bat. I will be curious to track my fuel mileage too, as this had been something that had slowly been creeping downward over the past few years.

Long story short, this should be considered a maintenance item that should probably be changed every 100k miles or so. According to FCP it fits a number of models including 3, 5, 7, and 8 Series from 1989 to about 2003.

Real OEM shows that it fits these exact models:

Part 13631721456 was found on the following vehicles:

• 3' E30   (02/1989 — 12/1992)
• 3' E36   (11/1989 — 08/2000)
• 5' E34   (01/1989 — 06/1996)
• 5' E39   (02/1995 — 12/2003)
• 7' E32   (03/1991 — 04/1994)
• 7' E38   (07/1993 — 07/2001)
• 8' E31   (12/1992 — 05/1999)
• Z3 E36   (12/1994 — 07/2000)