Hello everyone, recently just got done putting together my e36 with a holset hy35 and 60 lb injectors.
I flashed my car with the tune but due to some wires that were not connected the tune didn't fully flash but went through the
loading and reached 100% with no hiccups. Drove the car around and home from where i was working on it, it drove pretty well seemed
to pull pretty good even into boost and had great drive-ability on the highway. I then figured out that the tune was never flashed because of the check
engine codes i was receiving. Made sure the wires were 100% connected and reflashed, codes went away but it runs like poop now. I know a lot of people are running base tunes with no problems and I would think the car would run like crap on an n/a tune so i would like to see if i can get some insight.
Any thoughts/ideas to point me in the right direction are appreciated. Thank you!
Last edited by Jasonrc2; 06-29-2015 at 10:55 PM.
got my wideband in...
idling around 16?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blHNZ7LUCS8
when I acclerate theres a limiter at 4k
Last edited by Jasonrc2; 07-24-2015 at 04:53 PM.
Where did you get the tune?
'89 535i/5 Holset WH1E turbo
Follow my m106 megasquirt build thread here
Follow my R75/6 build here. Youtube - Dispatch Moto
Rk tunes...
Afr reads 10-9 when ignition breaks up at 3k.
NGK 4091 gapped at .020
Two boots have some external rust and one has small tears on very end could this cause a spark issues that only happens near boost?
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I did a boost leak test yes it won't hold the pressure for the whole test but I can't hear or see any leaks. I've tested fuel pressure I've swapped a new o2 in.. I get misfires across the board and a vanos mechanical code.. No vacuum leaks idles alright around 14 now.. The only thing I can think now is get 6 new coils.. Also I can only start the car if I turn the key to on then put the neg cable on the battery. New battery good alternator.
Just went out and drove it to get the codes to come back to see which cylinders coil is failing first but drove it in 3rd gear to where it wont let me go past around 4k, and there were no misfire or vanos codes, nothing. And it started right up without having to fidget with the battery..
Last edited by Jasonrc2; 08-07-2015 at 02:10 PM.
Has anyone had problems with an 80 amp alternator on a turbo car..? Tested good but wondering if its causing weak spark at 4k which causes the rich breakup..
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Plugs are gapped at .020 I'll try gapping them down a hair.. Edit im actually gonna make the gap a hair bigger. Also could alternator be on its way out but test fine? Idk why I keep thinking of things that could be wrong when the car ran perfectly fine "untuned" which is supposed to run like crap.. Shows that all my hardware is in good working order. This was even with the ccv hose still attached to the dipstick
Ex untuned
https://youtu.be/aXwL7_-Lqks
Tuned
https://youtu.be/_fh-6eSaqEc
Afrs go rich when it breaks up so last thing to do would be pull fuel from the map and go from there .?
Last edited by Jasonrc2; 08-08-2015 at 02:09 PM.
Well, I can't tell if this was the case in your first "untuned" vid, but in the second one, you do no have your VSS (Vehicle speed sensor off of the diff) hooked up to the cluster. That will not let you rev up after a certain point.
Yea I've looked into that the rpm cutoff for that is 5400 or right around there so I've ruled that out, as the car ran fine before.
Im at a loss here. Can't figure it out
It really seems like you have a boost leak. How did you test for this?
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Ended up being turbulence with the maf fixed by putting mesh screen in front of it
Car runs good now, pulls hard
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