Need a new compressor

[motohunter4]

Mine has the death knock. I've been looking on eBay and can't seem to find one that looks like mine. I have the larger Bosch unit where the hoses connect in the back.

[Hit Man X]

Convert to a Sanden, reman Bosch are easy $400

[motohunter4]

Will the lines hook up?

[Hit Man X]

The high side did, low side did not. New lines are about $40/ea at a shop. Or buy the Mastercool manual crimper and make your own.

Then you can make the No 8 lines not only barrier, but reduced barrier for easier routing.

[motohunter4]

Sd-508?

[Hit Man X]

You can use that one, I went with the larger seven piston unit. 709 I think.

You do know you need a bracket right? Find a sand cast one or http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f...6830&start=100

[D Unit]

There's a Sanden bracket groupbuy on mye28.com. I am totally not sure if it's e23 compatible, so maybe someone here can confirm. I put myself on the list just in case since it's only $50 for the bracket and about $130 for a brand new Sanden compressor on Ebay or Amazon.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f...6830&start=100

[motohunter4]

I bought the Sanden sd5h14 for $119. Now I need to figure out the bracket.

[Hit Man X]

I bought the Sanden sd5h14 for $119. Now I need to figure out the bracket.

A real one or Hecho en Cheena?

Does it have vertical ports? No 10 suction and No 8 discharge?



http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-715...manual+crimper

This tool rocks. Spend the extra coin on steel fittings, aluminum are much weaker. Whether you choose to stick with R12 or convert to 134A, you really should consider building new hoses. Cheap and easy enough with that tool. Everything aside from the suction is a No 8, easy! 100% advocate using reduced barrier No 8, it costs a bit more but is far easier to route with its slimmer OD.

If you go 134A, that early condenser is weak. You will need to fab mounts for a PF or source an '86 MY unit for decent performance. Of course a large cooling fan (belt driven) is a must to help with airflow over the condenser.

Flush that system out, it is probably full of 'stop leak' junk from POs. New dryer and TXV are a given... drill out the liquid side of the old TRX as a flushing aid. Reinstall it then you can flush the evap from outside the car. Saves your back and from losing your mind.

[motohunter4]

Picture shows sanden on the side. It doesn't show the size of the ports, would it matter if building custom lines?

- - - Updated - - -

It looks like the pic shows 10 and 8. It is a real Sanden as well.

[motohunter4]

I think I am going to buy a mastercool tool and build a 134a cooling system. I have the compressor and dryer. I want to put a new parallel flow condenser in as well. Hitman, do you have a link to your TCV replacement diy?

[Hit Man X]

Sure do not, but R&R of the TRX is easy enough. Drop and remove glove box, it is there to the left. SUPER easy. Slap the old one in your bench vise and drill out the liquid side. Clean out all the metal chips and reinstall with o-rings. Flush from under the hood.

[motohunter4]

Do you think a 16x22 universal condenser with #6 and #8 fittings work? I plan on making "custom" brackets.

[Hit Man X]

Stock is about 15x22, so yes.

OE dryer is No 8 in and out, so you will have to just buy stepped fittings if you go that route.

[motohunter4]

Thanks for you help, I will post pics. Buying condenser and mastercool tool. Is eBay good source for line and fittings?

[Hit Man X]

If you can find what you need there, sure... most stuff there is chinese garbage. I use Parker-Racor for hoses usually. Again, stick with steel fittings. The aluminum ones may be cheaper, but bend then break easy. Happened on a new manifold assembly I purchased.

ACkits.com has been good to me in the past, their current site is a mess. Coldhose.com has a much better layout. That Mastercool kit can only crimp No 8 reduced, for 12/10/6 reduced you will need other dies ($50 or so each). But No 6 is already pretty small, so unless you are really tight for space, no need. On a 735i, probably no need for a 12->10 reduced hose either as there is so much room to the compressor. I reused the hard pipe from the compressor with all the odd angles, then built new from there with a fitting.

This is why to flush -

[BONDOSPECIAL]

Here is what I flushed out of an evaporator core (on my chevy truck) from a good working system that I had open because the compressor developed a seal leak...I flush everything now!!




Using this guy



It's great for flushing oil and transmission coolers too

[Hit Man X]

HA. Same flush tool I own, works awesome. $300 well spent.

[motohunter4]

The one I just ordered has #6,8,10, and 12 dies included.

[Hit Man X]

It has barrier dies, not reduced barrier. Except No 6, which also does RB.

[motohunter4]

Finally decided to start working on the BMW again. I had these laying around from 2 summers ago. (I know I'm lazy).
20150804_230111.jpg