Update:
I went to Hose Power here in Houston and they confirmed the fitting is in fact a metric 16mm X 1.5. I should have my hose ready tomorrow with jic on the other end for the 16mm banjo to jic adapter. Working pressure rating at 2600psi. I'll give final price once I pick it up tomorrow.
A bunch of other shops told me they don't know about my application and would rather not mess with it. I asked my company who I could use and that was one of the clients we have. Win win!
I got my hose at a serious discount since my company trades with Hose Power and because the guy that helped me out knows a couple of coworkers of mine. Anyway, I got a 23" Flextral hose. It's a nitrile hose so it's great for atf. Working pressure is 2600psi so it's good to go. Ends are 3/8(-6) jic female swivel.
Fitting into the pump is a 16mmx1.5 to 3/8jic 90° male.
I installed the pump and pulley and got a rough idea on how to run the hose. For the return, I'm definitely going to need to shield it or sleeve it because it runs way too close to the headers. Since I still have the stock cooler with hose attached, I asked for a 1/2"-3/8" barb but they didn't have one available. So I got a 3/8" npt to 1/2" barb and a 3/8" barb to 3/8" ball end swivel. No Teflon needed. Just tighten it really good and it should seal.
Aside from that, I got a 82 1/2" belt and it was too long. I may need a 81 1/2" since I'm not running the smog pump or a/c for now.
You are definitely going to be on the road before I am!
eh, you've got wrap on the headers, at that distance (4-6"?) you'll probably be just fine
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
gotcha, better safe than sorry i suppose
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Could be worse
DSC_3489.JPG
DSC_3493.JPG
This pic is showing sideways; I don't know why.
DSC_3490.JPG
DSC_3491.JPG
Last edited by JBasham; 05-19-2016 at 09:43 AM.
It's the little things that are overlooked that get me.
Sunday I worked on the engine harness for the e36. Tried to make it as neat and condensed as possible so that it could at least look halfway decent. Finished up the wrapping. Wired in the alternator. Stuffed the computer in the e36 stock location. Mounted the tach signal converter on top of the lid with double sided tape. Checked my grounds. Went ahead and finished off the power steering. Mounted the belt. It all seemed ready. I went to test it out and CLICK!! That's it. Didn't even turn over, much less crank. Definitely a WTF moment. Tried to go over everything but decided to sleep Sunday night and tackle it Monday.
Monday comes around and I take my new Optima battery to see if it had somehow gone bad. It needed a little charge so I got that done at oreilly. Brought it home, wired it in, Click! Maybe it's the starter?
Tuesday, took the starter to oreilly and it passes with flying colors. Mounted it again, redid my grounds. Click!!
Today, I remove the Ford ground cable from the stock location and move it to the engine support bracket. Went ahead and used a new cable just in case. Click! At this point, seriously WTF?! I bring out my harbor freight volt meter and start checking for power. Oddly enough, I wasn't getting any power to the starter. Turns out, I didn't put my starter wire in the proper post in the positive junction. Moved it over to the post that also has the cable running to the fuse box and BAM, started right up. No hesitation at all. I felt stupid after. Then I blamed BMW engineers because....well just because.
Pic of engine bay as of tonight.
While I had the engine running, I noticed that the belt tensioner jumps a lot and it's not entirely straight. Tomorrow I'm getting a new one and finally gonna try and figure out the radiator.
My DEI fire shield came in Monday so sleeving my fuel lines will be my Saturday project.
Belt tensioner has been replaced and that completes accessories for now.
I started to mock up the radiator and see how I can get around the fitment issue.
I don't have an aluminum welder so this job will have to get done at a fab shop or radiator shop. My dad came up with the idea of moving the inlet neck to the side of the radiator with a 90° bend upwards instead of hacking the support. I checked the clearance of the hose to the headlight and looks like it could work.
I'll call some local shops tomorrow. Hopefully it'll be a reasonable price.
why's the radiator sitting so low? and close to the pulleys? can't it go up about an inch and back about 1-1.5"? bleeding the cooling system with the hose being the high point in the system is gonna be a real bear. seems to be one of the pitfalls of the ford swaps
here's what i wound up doing to help prevent any sort of bubbles getting trapped in the hoses. though you'd need a new thermostat neck, relocate the alternator and get a new belt to pull something like this off
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
The radiator is narrow enough to fit between the stock supports, but not narrow enough to tuck under the support bracket. I would have to hack #12 so that the radiator can go in there. I will raise it about an inch for final placement. My entire engine and tranny combo are from a 94, so I have the longer bell housing and I mounted the engine so that the front cross member is in between the oil pan hump. My engine definitely sits further than other swaps I've seen because I don't have to make a mount for the heater control valve. It'll fit in the stock location just fine.
ForumRunner_20160527_103640.png
I trimmed #12 a little and found an alternator/air pump bracket off a '80s Ford Pickup truck that allowed the alternator to hang down enough that I had clearance for the upper radiator hose. I also had to rotate the back of the alternator bell
so the electrical terminals were facing outwards instead of wedged against the engine block. I need to revisit the radiator mounting on my swap since I'm not too happy with the fan arrangement I am currently running. It's marginal at best in the
summer.
1993 BMW e36 318is with a (mostly) completed SBF 5.0/T5 swap
TFS Street Heat heads (TFS 170 tw) with upgraded dual valve spring kit
TFS Street Heat Intake w/70mm TB and EGR delete spacer (fits under hood)
TFS Stage 1 camshaft
MS2-Extra controlling fuel and spark
It goes...ok. :-)
Hey, is that the Jegs radiator?
Okay, I have some pictures at home I will try to post for you this weekend. I was able to (1) raise the radiator so the top tucked up right underneath the top part of #12, like the stock unit (2) trim the side flanges on #12 so I could push the radiator forward far enough that the P/S radiator hookup clears the alternator. I think you probably have another 2" you can move it forward. The limiting factor will be the tabs on the caps on the two frame tubes.
Last edited by JBasham; 05-27-2016 at 02:56 PM.
He got it from eBay.
I don't need AC so I moved mine further forward to use the space from removing the condenser. So if you need to keep it, there's less space there for sure.
For me the frame tube tabs were the limit on how far forward I could go, because I didn't want to trim them.
DSC_3437.JPG
But you can see the p/s connector is in a good spot to clear the alt.
DSC_3436.JPG
The insides of the crosspiece bracket were keeping me from pushing forward
DSC_3393.JPGDSC_3394.JPG
So I trimmed it
DSC_3399.JPG
DSC_3401.JPG
I trimmed the top of the crossbrace to make room for the filler neck. I set the bottom brackets just high enough that the cap comes on and off, but still clears the underside of the hood.
DSC_3404.JPGIn this pic, the top is still leaning back toward the motor a little because I don't have top clips in.
Good alternator clearance and stock hose will go around the back side, like a stock Foxbody setup
DSC_3440.JPG
Here I was setting the height to measure for the brackets
DSC_3403.JPG
Bottom bracket
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No fan pics yet. I'm using the Volvo as a pusher. Isn't it thinner than the stock E36 fan? Maybe you could get AC condenser room that way? Honestly, on mine there would be room for an electric puller. I have one using less room on my E21. But I would rather have the clearance and just never worry about engine tip at the track.
Last edited by JBasham; 05-28-2016 at 08:22 AM.
Hey, I'll have you know that's not old hose, it's new hose, and high-temp at that.
Your bracket work is really nice and tidy, just like the others you have done.
I need something that can take a biff, like from a groundhog at 80, and still not dump fluid on the track. I swear, we're bagging a groundhog every weekend at Summit Point, usually on turn 4 or turn 10. I don't know how the little fellas keep the population going.
Not my car but you get the idea:
Last edited by JBasham; 05-31-2016 at 12:35 PM.
good pic of the radiator bracket, i think i might just use it on my car. the temp one i made is complete and utter shit
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Another video, this time taken by my buddy. The vid shows a rough start but it runs fine. It was taken after the fire sleeves were added to the fuel lines and I didn't purge them after. There was also a vacuum leak. Fixed the wiring a bit to make it look better. Still need to tidy up the mess on the passenger side though.
https://youtu.be/LQ8Y0pDXp-M
Revs!
https://youtu.be/PHBNt69CB_g
Don't mind my hand throttle cable...
I've been having issues with the pulleys not running true and moving my belt back and forth. Everything is tight but the power steering and water pump pulleys wobble, thus eating away at the front of the belt.
at first i was going to suggest buying a pulley alignment kit, like this
https://www.amazon.com/Dayco-93874-T.../dp/B004SF0TLI
but then i watched your video. holy crap that power steering pulley is bent like a mofo!
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
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