Thanks.
No. I either have to adapt and run the BMW pump or run the Ford pump. The BMW pump needs a new pulley since I dropped the motor on it. The Ford pump is completely broken. I can run the a/c in the stock location since the frame rail is in the way. I'm thinking of mounting the BMW pump in that location instead and mounting the compressor where the smog pump was.
That'll be next on the list once I get the car running. I ordered the intake air temp sensor and pigtail from late model restoration. I went ahead and ordered a Aeromotive adjustable fpr and a gauge. Should arrive today. Hopefully I can crank it today if I get home early enough
i think i paid $15 for my p/s pulley on ebay. it looks/feels like cheap plastic [even though it's aluminum] but it's been going strong for a few years now
go bmw ps pump, i've heard that the ford pumps "don't feel very good at high rpm". though that's just hearsay, might be no basis behind it
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
I've got it cranking, but it won't do much beyond that. I wired in my pcm directly to power with a 20amp fuse. It's getting 14 volts in, but only sending 2 volts out. I'm not being spark either. I had to run my fuel pump directly to the power source in order to get it working since my computer only sends out 2 volts.
What do you guys think? New computer?
maybe it's something happening because of the SCT chip? they might be able to give some insight on what you can check for to see if it's the computer or their chips' problem. who knows, they might even offer to fix it for you if they think it's an issue with the chip
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Reading the wiring diagrams, I've added power to the ccrm. It contains the fuel pump relay and computer relay, so I added power via those input wires with 20 amp fuses. When I try to turn on my car, I get a loud buzzing from the ccrm. Turns out it's the computer doing the relay. I'm thinking I could bypass the relay for now.
The engine is not getting spark yet, but I'm thinking it has something to do with the buzzing relay.
use this link to check the ccrm wiring the ccrm shouldn't buzz http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=311.0
The motor ground strap did come loose. However I tightened it and I still don't get spark. I do have the rest of the harness which comes with the mustang fuse box. I'm going to plug it in and ground all the grounds wires that comes with. If it turns on then, I'll open up the harness and eliminate the light plugs, crash sensor plugs, etc, then shorten the harness
Here is an article that give a lot of detail what's going on with the harness and the computer:
http://sth2.com/mustang/EFI-harness-...structions.pdf
https://youtu.be/78Ilg8qCCtU
She breathes!
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Bravo, bravo.
I really appreciate the links and help you guys provided to help me troubleshoot my starting issue. To be honest, after going over it again and again, I think my biggest issue was improper grounding. Once that was sorted I was able to start the car. I took the Fuse box harness and traced the wires that go to the ccrm with power along with the ground. Once I knew which ones to use, I eliminated that harness and tried to clean it up as best as possible without making a new harness all together.
So far it appears that my best option right now is to wrap the Ford harness arounf the shock tower. The CCRM fits nicely on the tray behind the tower and I'm able to wire in my power sources there.
So since my wiring is almost done, I started thinking about the power steering pump. I'm going to go with the Ford pump and custom hoses. I would like some feedback though before
I order what I need.
Using the information in this other thread, http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Pump-Mounting, I made a little shopping list of stuff I need to make this work.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kys-100-4343 - Metric adapter fitting to AN for the high pressure side of the Ford power steering pump.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8021560 - Banjo bolt to AN adapter for the high pressure side of the steering rack.
From discounthydraulichose.com, a custom 3/8" Thermoplastic hose with one end 3/8" female JIC swivel and the other end 3/8" JIC 90* swivel long X 22".
Link to the JIC 90 for refernce - http://www.discounthydraulichose.com..._p/3-06846.htm
The hose comes out to 52$ shipped.
My question is, is 3/8" hose enough for the pump to rack? Should I go with 1/2"? Is the hose material adequate or can I choose something else?
For the low pressure side, I was thinking of getting a 3/8" male x male hose barb adapter and 10" of low pressure hose and clamp them down with fuel line clamps.
By the way, Summit sells this hose made by Nitrous outlet. According to them, it's rated up to 12k psi.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nx...0810/overview/
Any input is greatly appreciated guys!
Last edited by ponchiz318; 05-13-2016 at 10:07 PM.
Does the stock Ford line have the flare out on the end? Mine didn't.
Looks good.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8021560 - Banjo bolt to AN adapter for the high pressure side of the steering rack.
Looks like that JIC 90 is a 37 degree flare, which is correct to mate with an AN fitting, so that should work.From discounthydraulichose.com, a custom 3/8" Thermoplastic hose with one end 3/8" female JIC swivel and the other end 3/8" JIC 90* swivel long X 22".
Link to the JIC 90 for refernce - http://www.discounthydraulichose.com..._p/3-06846.htm
The hose comes out to 52$ shipped.
The stock BMW return lines are about 12mm, which is less than 1/2". The high pressure line should be smaller than the return line, so 3/8" (-6AN) should be fine.My question is, is 3/8" hose enough for the pump to rack? Should I go with 1/2"? Is the hose material adequate or can I choose something else?
That's what I did, except I used regular hose clamps. The connection weeps a little, I should replace those with fuel injection clamps, I know I have a few lying around.For the low pressure side, I was thinking of getting a 3/8" male x male hose barb adapter and 10" of low pressure hose and clamp them down with fuel line clamps.
I looked at nitrous lines when I was doing my clutch, but couldn't find fluid compatibility or pressure data, so I stuck to something that was specifically rated for brake fluid. Who knows, they might be fine with power steering fluid but I'd want confirmation of that somewhere.By the way, Summit sells this hose made by Nitrous outlet. According to them, it's rated up to 12k psi.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nx...0810/overview/
I'm basing the fitting on this link - http://forums.corral.net/forums/94-9...ting-size.html
I'm not sure if there's a difference between the SN95 pump and the fox pump, but the locations are definitely different.
Here's the Russell part mentioned in the link above. - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-648060
As for the Nitrous hose, I got the info from their site. http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/nitrous...ided-hose.html
They don't mention liner material though.
yeah, no bueno, i'd just order some ptfe hose and make em from scratch. making braided hose really isn't that hard to do once you get the hang of it
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Did more stuffs to my car. It started with the power steering pump. I needed a new Ford one so I got one at oreilly for 40$ with core. Rented a pulley puller from autozone for 40$. Full refund upon return of the tool. I also went ahead and cleaned the shit out of that bracket. It took a while but I finally managed to clean it up with Awesome from family dollar and that purple stuff cleaner from autozone.
After that, I was looking at the water pump and noticed that there was always a slight wobble coming from that pulley. I said screw and replaced a bunch of stuff.
Besides the power steering pump, I replaced the idler pulley, tensioner pulley, thermostat housing, added a thermostat since it didn't have one, and new bypass hoses. It all took me too long to do since I had to run around to different stores to pick up what I needed. In the process I ended up buying a 11 piece torx bit set and a 9 piece inverted torx set.
Then I ran around again and tried to look for an adapter bushing to try and mount my e36 temp sender in place of the 302 model. The 302 sender is a 3/8 npt thread and the e36 is M12X1.5. It was damn near impossible to find something locally until I actually looked in the 5.0 swap manual. I went to Lowe's and got the 3/8mpt to 1/4"fpt that was recommended. It actually screwed in pretty well. Hopefully that'll hold. If not, rtv would take care of it. I then got the male connector from the e36 harness and tied it into my makeshift harness. Very easy.
Tomorrow I'm taking my power steering pump to a hydraulic hose shop and gonna see if they can make me one. Just by looking at the pump, I would've easily said npt because it's completely flat inside. We'll see tomorrow.
What temperature did you go for? I dropped mine to 180 degrees and I'm really happy with it. Holds 180 on the highway, in town or sitting still I have the fan come on at 200 and off at 190, works like a dream, never goes above 205. With the old stock thermostat I was seeing 225-230 degrees.
I went with a 180 as well. That's the optimal temp the engine would be happy with, according to the Internets.
I test fitted the radiator. The upper neck hits the alternator if I align it with the stock bottom supports. I would need to modify the front panel if I want to tuck it in there. I'll figure that out next week
Looks like you had a great weekend. Glad you got your ground issues sorted out. They can mess with your head. In auto work, if I'm having trouble with a particular thing, I will often just run a separate ground wire to the component and see if that fixes it. But before I'll leave in a ground that I have come up with myself, I'll spend time thinking whether I just created an un-fused circuit, and make sure I don't leave it that way.
I wasted much time fabbing up my own P/S pump bracket and P/S res bracket going with the BMW pump, and the Ford pump solves that in one fell swoop.
If you wind up using discounthydraulic instead of your local shop: They have metric-to-JIC 37 adapters for good prices, which will work for the rack side and (it appears) your Ford pump HP output since you say it's metric too. One-stop shopping might save you over ordering separately from Summit.
For the low-pressure return side from the rack -- to my surprise, I found the original BMW cooler fit right back on there with very little massaging of the metal tubing, and a little two-hole tab bracket for the passenger side of the steering rack. So my return hosing is the stock return off the cooler, barbed together with a little more thermoplastic hose as an extender.
Also, their "swivel" fittings allow you to swivel the fitting-to-fitting connection angle. But they don't allow you to swivel 90-degree arm at the hose side, where it is crimped on to the hose. So, think about how you want those clocked before you make the order. A 22-inch piece of hose will give you a little room to twist, but not a lot.
If your temp sender adapter leaks, I just got a brass 3/8 pipe plug and tapped a M12 threaded hole through it myself.
I never removed the cooler hose for the install. I did detach the actual steel line with the tabs which can be easily reattached with some sheet metal. I do have easy access to the rack so that I can bolt in the banjo bolt when it comes to it. Currently calling around different places to see if they can help.
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