I've wrapped motorcycle headers before. I coated and baked them before wrapping.
You can also add a silicone sealant to the header wrap to waterproof it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Design-Engin...25.m3641.l6368
Last edited by Laminar; 02-23-2016 at 09:09 AM.
Passenger side header done!!
Welding BBK collector to the header.
Final result
In place.
I was looking at the drivers side and the idea of running it between the transmission and engine won't work with 2 1/2" pipe. It'll sit too low for comfort. Instead we'll make the collector go downwards between the e36 fuel pressure regulator and the slave cylinder. Once done, I'll get the exhaust shop to run oval pipe instead. I do want dual exhaust all the way to the back but once at the shop I'll decide if I want an exit at each side of the bumper or both to exit in the stock location.
Header looks great! Are you going to use the BMW FPR or use the Ford one?
Very, very nice.
I am having trouble visualizing how you will run exhaust down the driver's side side of the driveshaft tunnel? On my E36 chassis, that is fuel line city over there.
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Very, very nice.
I am having trouble visualizing how you will run exhaust down the driver's side side of the driveshaft tunnel? On my E36 chassis, that is fuel line city over there.
Hey, with the exhaust wrap moisture issue: why doesn't the 500-degree-plus heat of the metal surface vaporize the water rapidly after the initial quenching/cooling of the pipe? Does the wrap material impede that?
Pictures have been taken.
This is the view from under the drivers side looking towards the front. A 2-1 collector would be welded there.
Like so.
The original plan was to drop down and between the transmission and engine, but it's too low.
Picture is for clearance reference. That's how low the pipe would run without touching anything. It would be the lowest point of the car.
Instead I'm thinking I should run it in this direction instead. The e36 fpr would be removed and everything with a heat shield.
I would try to get oval pipe.
At this point or a bit before, it'll turn in and meet up with the other pipe under the driveshaft.
Last edited by ponchiz318; 02-26-2016 at 02:50 PM.
Well dang, that pretty much handled my visualization thing. Thanks very much.
Moving your fuel filter isn't a big deal. My chassis is a 11/93 manufacture date, and it place the filter on a bracket hanging up off the engine block/header assembly. I'm just clamping an in-line AN - AN filter on the firewall and running flexible inlet line to that on my way to the fuel rail.
Yeah crossing over at the oil pan puts the pipe bottom down like 1" lower than the lower bound of the framerails/bellhousing. I can see where that might be nerve-wracking.
I still might go for it, if it were me. The E36 front chassis cross brace is pretty cheap and gives me a stout front edge to weld on a little skid-plate action. I've seen guys use 2 sticks of additional tubing to tie it in to the transmission mount on either side. The sheet steel I placed over that frame wouldn't need to be too thick, and it would still "float" me over the obstacle smoothing without scraping off specific parts.
I'm in the throes of trying to run both 2-1/2" pipes down the passenger side of things, after I have wrapped the driver's side header outlet in front of the motor. It's not too bad, but it needs two slightly different S-bends to start high over the steering rack, then sneak under the motor mounts, then sneak down to the plane of the underbody so it runs parallel with the existing tunnel.
And that tunnel is none too wide up before the cats. Side-by-side 2-1/2" pipes pretty much fills it. I have no idea at this point how I could work a decent x-pipe in. Maybe I will make the world's shortest H-pipe connector, like a 1/2" cross-tube.
So I removed the stock fpr and fuel filter and started to run the fuel line. I was thinking my best bet was to run the fuel upwards from the stock location to the firewall and then run it over to the passenger side. I would mount the fuel filter on the passenger side. Do you guys think this is a good option or should I run it along the drivers side and in front of the engine over to the passenger side?
I also noticed that I had purchased regular fuel hose instead of fuel injection hose so that'll have to change.
Something about going forward with the lines on the driver's side makes me nervous. Basically, I have a car fire phobia, and I earned it.
I plan to make any necessary cross-over to the passenger side back by the firewall and transmission, where there is much space, less heat, and no moving parts. I'm using stainless braid fuel tubing with Teflon internals; not cheap or flexible but reliable. I will probably run from the firewall to the fuel rail right over the valve covers.
Where's your fuel rail inlet?
Here's where my fuel lines come up.
My inlet and return are next to the intake manifold and behind the distributor. So I was thinking running the line upwards like Laminars and then over to the passenger side. Then it'll come forward next to the wheel well where I would run the lines under the intake pipe. I was thinking of mounting the stock fuel filter under the tray that has the positive jump post on it.
Sounds nice and tidy
So I've been trying to work on the car here and there. Baby steps.
So far I rerouted and made a harness for my starter wiring. I redid the harness for the o2 sensors. I painted my headers and wrapped them as best I could. Also painted my motor mounts safety red. Bolted the headers and mounts down.
I also tried to see what I could do about the shifter.
I went ahead and installed the 40$ ebay shifter to see how it fits and what I need to do.
Obviously it'll be modified somehow. I was thinking of doing what this one guy did in his RX7 with T5 swap.
I'll figure something out. Hopefully I can finally run my fuel lines and get the wiring done this weekend.
on my tko i just cut a rectangle piece of steel, cut two holes in each side, then put it between the stick and tranny to space it correctly in the boot. fwiw my t5 was pretty much perfect in the hole. How far out do you think you are ? Im hoping a month or so for my 5.0 swap, wiring it now.
I used the stock filter(new) and stock location. K.I.S.S. Unless since the manual was made people have decided this was a bad idea in which case i d like to know why and what others did.
i personally wouldn't want that much soft line flopping around in the engine bay. here's what i did today for my fuel line
i wanted to use brake line, but the assholes at autozone wouldn't stop giving me a hard time about using braided hose instead, so i wound up getting a 10ft spool of 3/8" OD refrigerant line from home depot. if you want 5/16 like your car came with, you're probably gonna need to order it online, because they had nothing between 1/4" and 3/8" in stock
never worked with copper line before, man was that a treat! bends so easy, but also kinks much easier than steel line. i used a bubble flare tool partially to give the line a good barb for the hose to grab on to
according to the manufacturer, this line is good for significantly more pressure than your fuel pump could ever hope to pump out
http://www.muellerindustries.com/upl...plications.pdf
as an added bonus, it's about half the price of the copper tube you'd get from summit, but then again it's only good to 1000psi instead of 3000
Last edited by jalopi; 04-09-2016 at 10:31 PM.
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
I ended up running the lines like so.
I called DEI and they recommended I wrap the hoses with their fireshield sleeves. I spent the rest of the day trying to figure out wiring and realized that I didn't have a maf sensor plug. I went to advance and got a pig tail for it. Shortly afterwards, I noticed I don't have a ait sensor either. I was really trying to get it started today but I guess I'll wait until tomorrow after work. I need to buy a new battery anyway so that'll help. This is how I left it tonight.
that's why when parts store guys ask me if i need anything else, i say i guess i'll find out once i get home. lol
git-r-dun, just remember no swap is complete without a burnout video
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Nice work. You're still ahead of me. Are you going to run the steering rack without the hydraulics?
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