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Thread: Ponchiz BMW M302

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
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    1,051
    My Cars
    '97 M3/4/5.0
    I've wrapped motorcycle headers before. I coated and baked them before wrapping.









    You can also add a silicone sealant to the header wrap to waterproof it.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Design-Engin...25.m3641.l6368
    Last edited by Laminar; 02-23-2016 at 09:09 AM.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lutherville, MD
    Posts
    158
    My Cars
    1995 318is with a 95 5.0
    Quote Originally Posted by ponchiz318 View Post
    I've read mixed reviews on header wrap. What I did get from research is that it's best to coat the mild steel properly prior to wrapping. If anything, DEI also make other wraps and sleeves that can be used to protect the brake lines as well.
    Eastwood also sells internal coating kits.
    I used the Eastwood kits for the exterior and internal coatings. 3 years later the internal coating is the only coating that is still there. I used spark plug protectors for the break lines and moved the ABS pump up 3 inches and haven't had any issues.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
    Posts
    5,639
    My Cars
    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    Passenger side header done!!

    Welding BBK collector to the header.


    Final result




    In place.






    I was looking at the drivers side and the idea of running it between the transmission and engine won't work with 2 1/2" pipe. It'll sit too low for comfort. Instead we'll make the collector go downwards between the e36 fuel pressure regulator and the slave cylinder. Once done, I'll get the exhaust shop to run oval pipe instead. I do want dual exhaust all the way to the back but once at the shop I'll decide if I want an exit at each side of the bumper or both to exit in the stock location.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Des Moines, IA
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    '97 M3/4/5.0
    Header looks great! Are you going to use the BMW FPR or use the Ford one?

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    Thanks! I'm using the Ford one. I might have to relocate the fuel filter as well.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Metro DC
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    826
    My Cars
    79 323i, 94 325is, 13 M3
    Very, very nice.

    I am having trouble visualizing how you will run exhaust down the driver's side side of the driveshaft tunnel? On my E36 chassis, that is fuel line city over there.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Very, very nice.

    I am having trouble visualizing how you will run exhaust down the driver's side side of the driveshaft tunnel? On my E36 chassis, that is fuel line city over there.

    Hey, with the exhaust wrap moisture issue: why doesn't the 500-degree-plus heat of the metal surface vaporize the water rapidly after the initial quenching/cooling of the pipe? Does the wrap material impede that?

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Houston, Tx.
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    I'm trying to see what the better solution would be. I'll have to shield the brake lines and fuel lines for sure along with the slave cylinder. I might have to relocate the fuel filter or at least wrap the shield that covers it against the heat. I'll take pictures once I get home to give a visual.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
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    5,639
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    Pictures have been taken.
    This is the view from under the drivers side looking towards the front. A 2-1 collector would be welded there.


    Like so.



    The original plan was to drop down and between the transmission and engine, but it's too low.


    Picture is for clearance reference. That's how low the pipe would run without touching anything. It would be the lowest point of the car.


    Instead I'm thinking I should run it in this direction instead. The e36 fpr would be removed and everything with a heat shield.


    I would try to get oval pipe.


    At this point or a bit before, it'll turn in and meet up with the other pipe under the driveshaft.
    Last edited by ponchiz318; 02-26-2016 at 02:50 PM.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Metro DC
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    79 323i, 94 325is, 13 M3
    Well dang, that pretty much handled my visualization thing. Thanks very much.

    Moving your fuel filter isn't a big deal. My chassis is a 11/93 manufacture date, and it place the filter on a bracket hanging up off the engine block/header assembly. I'm just clamping an in-line AN - AN filter on the firewall and running flexible inlet line to that on my way to the fuel rail.

    Yeah crossing over at the oil pan puts the pipe bottom down like 1" lower than the lower bound of the framerails/bellhousing. I can see where that might be nerve-wracking.

    I still might go for it, if it were me. The E36 front chassis cross brace is pretty cheap and gives me a stout front edge to weld on a little skid-plate action. I've seen guys use 2 sticks of additional tubing to tie it in to the transmission mount on either side. The sheet steel I placed over that frame wouldn't need to be too thick, and it would still "float" me over the obstacle smoothing without scraping off specific parts.

    I'm in the throes of trying to run both 2-1/2" pipes down the passenger side of things, after I have wrapped the driver's side header outlet in front of the motor. It's not too bad, but it needs two slightly different S-bends to start high over the steering rack, then sneak under the motor mounts, then sneak down to the plane of the underbody so it runs parallel with the existing tunnel.

    And that tunnel is none too wide up before the cats. Side-by-side 2-1/2" pipes pretty much fills it. I have no idea at this point how I could work a decent x-pipe in. Maybe I will make the world's shortest H-pipe connector, like a 1/2" cross-tube.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    So I removed the stock fpr and fuel filter and started to run the fuel line. I was thinking my best bet was to run the fuel upwards from the stock location to the firewall and then run it over to the passenger side. I would mount the fuel filter on the passenger side. Do you guys think this is a good option or should I run it along the drivers side and in front of the engine over to the passenger side?
    I also noticed that I had purchased regular fuel hose instead of fuel injection hose so that'll have to change.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Metro DC
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    My Cars
    79 323i, 94 325is, 13 M3
    Something about going forward with the lines on the driver's side makes me nervous. Basically, I have a car fire phobia, and I earned it.

    I plan to make any necessary cross-over to the passenger side back by the firewall and transmission, where there is much space, less heat, and no moving parts. I'm using stainless braid fuel tubing with Teflon internals; not cheap or flexible but reliable. I will probably run from the firewall to the fuel rail right over the valve covers.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Des Moines, IA
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    '97 M3/4/5.0
    Where's your fuel rail inlet?

    Here's where my fuel lines come up.




  13. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    My inlet and return are next to the intake manifold and behind the distributor. So I was thinking running the line upwards like Laminars and then over to the passenger side. Then it'll come forward next to the wheel well where I would run the lines under the intake pipe. I was thinking of mounting the stock fuel filter under the tray that has the positive jump post on it.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Metro DC
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    79 323i, 94 325is, 13 M3
    Sounds nice and tidy

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
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    My Cars
    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    So I've been trying to work on the car here and there. Baby steps.
    So far I rerouted and made a harness for my starter wiring. I redid the harness for the o2 sensors. I painted my headers and wrapped them as best I could. Also painted my motor mounts safety red. Bolted the headers and mounts down.


    I also tried to see what I could do about the shifter.

    I went ahead and installed the 40$ ebay shifter to see how it fits and what I need to do.



    Obviously it'll be modified somehow. I was thinking of doing what this one guy did in his RX7 with T5 swap.


    I'll figure something out. Hopefully I can finally run my fuel lines and get the wiring done this weekend.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    e36v8, w123 300tdt, aw11
    on my tko i just cut a rectangle piece of steel, cut two holes in each side, then put it between the stick and tranny to space it correctly in the boot. fwiw my t5 was pretty much perfect in the hole. How far out do you think you are ? Im hoping a month or so for my 5.0 swap, wiring it now.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Houston, Tx.
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    I didn't measure, but it's a good 3-4" forward.
    Mind you, my setup is from a sn95 chassis instead of the fox body.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Houston, Tx.
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    I'd like to know what you guys think.
    Is it a good idea to have the fuel filter in the engine bay and run my fuel lines this way?

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    e36v8, w123 300tdt, aw11
    I used the stock filter(new) and stock location. K.I.S.S. Unless since the manual was made people have decided this was a bad idea in which case i d like to know why and what others did.

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    In my case, I have a custom header in the drivers side that routes the exhaust straight back instead of around the front of the engine. I have to relocate my fuel filter since there won't be any room for the exhaust pipe and filter.

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    i personally wouldn't want that much soft line flopping around in the engine bay. here's what i did today for my fuel line






    i wanted to use brake line, but the assholes at autozone wouldn't stop giving me a hard time about using braided hose instead, so i wound up getting a 10ft spool of 3/8" OD refrigerant line from home depot. if you want 5/16 like your car came with, you're probably gonna need to order it online, because they had nothing between 1/4" and 3/8" in stock

    never worked with copper line before, man was that a treat! bends so easy, but also kinks much easier than steel line. i used a bubble flare tool partially to give the line a good barb for the hose to grab on to

    according to the manufacturer, this line is good for significantly more pressure than your fuel pump could ever hope to pump out

    http://www.muellerindustries.com/upl...plications.pdf

    as an added bonus, it's about half the price of the copper tube you'd get from summit, but then again it's only good to 1000psi instead of 3000
    Last edited by jalopi; 04-09-2016 at 10:31 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
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    My Cars
    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    I ended up running the lines like so.


    I called DEI and they recommended I wrap the hoses with their fireshield sleeves. I spent the rest of the day trying to figure out wiring and realized that I didn't have a maf sensor plug. I went to advance and got a pig tail for it. Shortly afterwards, I noticed I don't have a ait sensor either. I was really trying to get it started today but I guess I'll wait until tomorrow after work. I need to buy a new battery anyway so that'll help. This is how I left it tonight.

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    that's why when parts store guys ask me if i need anything else, i say i guess i'll find out once i get home. lol

    git-r-dun, just remember no swap is complete without a burnout video
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Houston, Tx.
    Posts
    5,639
    My Cars
    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    I bought the small silicone tube to mount the maf pipe to the throttle body along with the maf pig tail and electrical tape. He asked me if that was all too which I said, "for now."

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Metro DC
    Posts
    826
    My Cars
    79 323i, 94 325is, 13 M3
    Nice work. You're still ahead of me. Are you going to run the steering rack without the hydraulics?

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