Do you need to swap oil pans do you know yet? Believe my motor is 97, but its a GT40 motor. Using the E30 poly mounts with the E36V8 motor mounts.
Oh yeah, forgot motor was a Explorer/Mustang hybrid. I believe im ok, think my motor is a rear sump. Though believe it has that little hump in the front, may have to do little hammering though.
So, the weather has cooled down. I've met my cycling and running goals for the year. Now I can commit to the M3 without having to wake up for a 60 mile bike ride.
Did some work today, mostly cleaning. Tomorrow I should be dropping the motor in. I don't have a engine hoist but do have a hand chain hoist with outriggers. Will have to lift the engine and roll the car into place. Pictures tomorrow!
Progress
So the motor is kinda in place but not mounted. Fabricated a custom bracket for the OEM slave instead of the Datsun slave. No problems fitting it and I can actually get to it from the top without much of a hassle. Also, I didn't remove the power steering cooling tube from the steering rack. I only unbolted it and pulled down on it some. I'll make new mounting tabs for it. At one point I did drop the engine from the jack stands I had it sitting on while trying to remove the EGR pump. There wasn't any damage to the engine since the pulley to the e36 power steering pump took most of the blow. I'll continue to work on it through the week to get it up soon. I got with my dad on modifying the BBK headers or any other that I purchase to make it work without having to run the exhaust to the front. I'll definitely take pictures as I go along.
Custom bracket template made from a coca cola box.
Result
Still need to make a contact point on the clutch arm for the slave to push on but you get the idea.
Then I dropped the motor on the pulley.
Afterwards we setup the poles to get the engine lifted and rolled the car into place.
Like Laminar said, progress.
If I'm not mistaken, the piece on the end of that clutch hardline is some kind of restrictor that prevents you from letting the clutch out too fast. Ditch it so that your clutch action is actually decent.
Looks great! I'm pumped to see what you come up with for headers.
Hey you're right. I never knew that.
http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/unloc...kit-p1381.aspx
Easy fix. Thanks!
I was going over the wiring today and there's a problem. The wiring schematic from the manual is quite a bit different than the sn95 wiring. I know someone on here ran the wiring to make it work. I won't be able to work on the car until Saturday. I'll get the mounts and fuel situated, followed by the electronics.
Do you have a good diagram for the SN95? I think I have a source.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...00c15280250fd6
The autozone diagram is more accurate for my computer
Got a late start today but got the passenger side engine mount completed. Engine crank is centered between the frame rails and it's pretty evident that there's a ton of space on the passenger side but not on the drivers side. For now, on to pictures of today's progress.
We begin with a template.
Some plasma action
And final result
Tomorrow it'll be the drivers side.
Motor and transmission mounts have been finalized. Ended up using the e36 oem mounts instead of the e30. Plenty of clearance in the oil pan and between the engine and hood. I bought a new oem ford t5 mount for the sn95 bracket and really stiffened everything up. I'll take proper pictures once I get everything ready for paint.
For now, headers are next on the list. My engine came with damaged bbk long tube headers that I wasn't planning on using but ended up hacking up the headers to see if we can make it work.
They will be set up as a tri y configuration.
Brilliant! This is the stuff I've been waiting to see!
- - - Updated - - -
BTW here's a pic of the rearmost spark plug on the driver's side, it's hard to get a good angle in there. I'm not sure if I have enough clearance to get a socket on the spark plug, it will be interesting when the time comes.
So moving on with the project. We started working on the drivers side header since its the most difficult to get. We ended up unbolting the master cylinder and moving it up and over 2". It's still lose but the brackets will be modified. On to pictures.
The collector will be cut short and weld in a elbow downward. The exhaust will be routed just like Laminars.
Once the car is up and running and everything settles, I'll buy stainless tubing and get them made properly. For now, this will work.
Ooo, a tri-y! Looks great, and will definitely flow better than my restrictive stock Explorer manifolds.
I was trying to figure out how you'd just scoot the master cylinder over, but I think from the pictures you meant the ABS module?
Last edited by Laminar; 02-04-2016 at 12:18 PM.
So work continued today with the passenger side header. I purchased a set of Jegs long tubes from Amazon and began modifying the header.
JEGS Performance Products 30071 Painted Long Tube Headers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VR84DA..._16MXwbTBCHDMT
Here's how low the collector will be.
Shot from the rear. You can see the modified sn95 trans support with the oem sn95 mount.
More pictures once more progress is made.
Last edited by ponchiz318; 02-18-2016 at 08:24 PM.
Sweet. I think you'll be the first 5.0 with real headers.
Sweet work there.
I dinked around and moved my ABS pump up to the front drivers side. Then I decided to just use two second-hand passenger-side shorty headers for the exhaust system 1.0 because I need to get this thing done before I get too old to drive it. Oh well. Plus it's going to cost me that oil filter relocation thingy.
You may have dropped your motor, but I dropped my chassis. And I dented more than a pulley wheel. Ouch.
Laminar, if I'm not mistaken, Arathbone was the first to modify shortys to get proper flow for his supercharger build.
Whatever works really. I was also looking into a oil filter remote mount instead but I'll be fine the way it is. I didn't want to extend brake lines and that's also why I'll be wrapping my headers with the DEI titanium wrap. I'm taking into consideration both Arathbone and Laminars exhaust ideas to make this one.
You should get some pictures up to check out your project as well.
Just remember that if you wrap your headers you can't drive in the rain. Your headers won't last long with all of the moisture that wraps hold in. A sheet metal heat shield should protect the brake lines?
I've read mixed reviews on header wrap. What I did get from research is that it's best to coat the mild steel properly prior to wrapping. If anything, DEI also make other wraps and sleeves that can be used to protect the brake lines as well.
Eastwood also sells internal coating kits.
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