For a while I've wanted a e36 project car. Mainly due to the fact that a bunch of friends of mine are on here with really nice cars. So, I picked up a '98 M3 roller complete with all interior bits. Everything works and all it needed was a heart. Many options came to mind. Boosted S52. S54 Swap. LSx swap. Finally I settled on the bang for your buck swap, the 5.0. The block itself is a rebulit '97 Explorer engine. Came with GT40P heads that were matched to the e303 cam that's in it. New clutch installed and flywheel recut. For 1k$, I think I did ok with the engine. The only thing that worries me is the fact that it came from a '94 Mustang. The computer has a SCT chip in it though.Will I still be able to use this computer? I know that it's a bit different than what's in the e36V8 manual.
Anywho, on to pictures.
Arrival:
Video of the engine when I went to pick it up.
Subbing
2006 Dodge Ram 1500 - 5.7 Hemi 4x4
I have a 94GT drivetrain. I ran the stock computer for almost 3 years and now I am running a megasquirt. The computer only runs the engine and doesn't care abut what it's in. I even have the check engine light wired in for diagnostics.
I used the manual and I gave E36v8 the changes need for the 94-95 ECU. The only thing I would do differently is make my own mounts I'm still using the e36v8 ones but they cracked around the mounting holes to the block
Thanks to Rprbeantown for answering some questions.
I'm going to stay ordering parts soon. As I'm doing research, I stumbled upon this.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/141691137508?nav=SEARCH
Good deal? I do need both items. Would I need a overflow tank as well?
Just a suggestion, so take it for what it's worth. Try to use a fan with a shroud. That fan is very similar to the 1st one I used and had cooling issues. A taurus fan made a world of difference.
The SPAL style fan is now on my stock M3 and works perfect. The V8 needs more airflow. :-)
Ordered parts last night.
Radiator and fan from ebay for $150 shipped. I'll install the fan in the auxiliary fan shroud and go from there. I didn't get the V70 due to the price of a new one. Also ordered a 280ZX non-turbo slave cylinder and will be getting the lines and fittings needed locally. Ordered a $50 short shift kit as well since my transmission didn't come with one. Slowly but surely.
I don't have the stock M3 engine harness either so I have to order the harness plugs and crimp all my own wires in there.
As for headers, I'm going to follow what Arathbone did with his drivers side header and weld up my own. I will also fabricate my own engine brackets and transmission supports.
You can get the Volvo fans for $20-$25 at the pick-n-pull. Here's a thread I put together about testing them to make sure they're not burnt up.
Once again, pick-n-pull. Just cut the connectors and as much wire from the stock harness as you can.
Good luck with the build!
Tipsy
Thanks for the info. In fact, I remember reading that thread but didn't think much of it at the time since I didn't have a project car at all. I completely forgot about it.
For now, I'll use the fan that's coming with the radiator since it has already shipped. I do have to make a junk yard run to see what I can find. I'll look for the engine harness connectors.
'97 Explorer engine fist-bump!
I'm running a Volvo fan in place of the original (and dead) BMW electric fan, it was the right diameter for the stock BMW shroud, I just had to drill new holes in the Volvo fan surround so that it would bolt right up to the BMW shroud.
I also installed a Stant 180 degree thermostat and set my fan to turn on at 200degF and off at 190. So far even when it's in the 90s outside the car runs cool. Sitting at stoplights I'll see temps creep up to 208-210 but then the fan will get it to turn around and drop back down to 190 in a very short time. Before the new thermostat I was seeing temps pushing 225-230 degrees.
Subbed. Ponchiz I am doing a swap right now as well, and also want to go with the standard rear dump header, unfortunately I do not have the tools or experience to Fab my own headers. I was going to grab a pair of block headers, and then run a 3 link steering column. However if you want to make 2 headers when you make yours, I will definitely buy one from you!
Also, this is a newb question, but i have never done it before. When you make your own engine mounts/trans mounts, what is the process you follow? How do you know where to locate the engine in the engine bay, and ensure driveline angles are correct, engine is not too far back or forward? Once again I probably wont be doing this because i don't have the tools or experience, but i am very curious as to the process. If i could get all the measurements and such, i was thinking about designing a mount in CAD and sending it out to be fabricated. I bought a set of the e36v8 engine mounts, and they seem strong but i am not in love with the design, and the M.E in my thinks it would be cool to design my own.
Here's how I did mine - the bump in the oil pan fits right over the steering rack, and that determines your front-to-rear position for you. I put a 1/4" block of wood between the steering rack and the oil pan, and that determined my height (I did have to "massage" some of the hood bracing to get everything to fit). I centered the engine side-to-side by making sure nothing was making contact - I have about 1/4" on the passenger side between the header and the frame rail, and 1/4-1/2" on the driver's side between the header and steering shaft. Once I got everything in place, it was matter of putting metal between the mounting points on the block and the E30 engine mounts bolted to the subframe, accounting for some compression of the rubber mounts once the engine was set into place.
I'm sure the e36v8 mounts will hold the weight and I know a lot of people have had great success with them. I however don't like the idea of having to redrill holes if I have to. I have plenty of scrap metal laying around to fabricate my own and make it look a little better at least. Besides, I'm using a 94 bell housing and transmission, so I might have to do some work to make it fit.
The engine I bought came with bbk long tube headers. I'll try to modify them to make them fit. The biggest issue would be making them to the point where they're able to come off easily if needed.
Never heard of those...but here's the link for the BMWCCA classing sheet to mess around with.
http://www.houston-bmwcca.com/wp-con....php?year=2015
After my swap, I'm now in E Class. Probably will be in E class for a while. In SCCA im in STO class
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