Looking at this option for both my e36 and e30s52 swap. Installing AC in the e30s52 interferes with my current CCV setup.
I am looking for advice as to WHERE to place the bung along the exhaust system. close to headers? before 2-1 merge? after the 2-1 merge? at a bend? in a straight section? etc.
Basically, is there a sweet spot or a trick to choosing the location along the exhaust system?
Pictured is my setup for reference
Here is the merge off the OBD2 headers
And here is the mid section. Inlet on the left, outlet on the right, after muffler
I was told after an outside of a bend where it would pick up most of the vac.
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
Last edited by cpalella; 06-23-2015 at 03:00 PM.
yes exactly
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
Perfect
Old set up: 520RWHP & 500RWTQ @ 20PSI 1/4 mile as of 7/26/15 12.5 @ 125MPH - 19PSI
New set up: Steedspeed Twinscroll, Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Blueprinted and Balanced, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) TwinScrol 1.06 exhaust housing, Nick G custom tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, UUC EVO III, UUC DSSR 109mm, EVO 6 Speed Driveshaft, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix data logger, 3" SS full exhaust, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Race coilovers.
You have a very nice build.
So you run 2 exhaust ccv bungs? and if I see correctly, you ave the check valves near the swaybar? which check valves did you use?
Also, OT, are those slip fit connections on your exhaust with band clamps? Also, do you have a shot of the engine bay showing your ccv layout from up top? (I'll search for your build thread )
Nice photo Matt.
Well sorted.
Ideal placement is after the turn so the flow is crashing into it,
but having MULTIPLE crankcase vents
ANYWHERE for mid-pauer turbo systems is "just right".
I have THREE (3) vents to a hobo catch can,
but it still sprays all over the place.
Keeps the engine bay shiny, free from...well, dirt I guess.
Last edited by milKt; 06-24-2015 at 07:05 PM.
Old set up: 520RWHP & 500RWTQ @ 20PSI 1/4 mile as of 7/26/15 12.5 @ 125MPH - 19PSI
New set up: Steedspeed Twinscroll, Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Blueprinted and Balanced, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) TwinScrol 1.06 exhaust housing, Nick G custom tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, UUC EVO III, UUC DSSR 109mm, EVO 6 Speed Driveshaft, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix data logger, 3" SS full exhaust, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Race coilovers.
The exhaust evac might actually work if the pump output is higher than the exhaust back pressure. What pressure Hobbs switch did you go with?
Sent from my GTX3582R
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Yea, you're not kidding. I remember a thread a while back discussing ccv options with the obd2 air pump being one. Didn't know anyone did it, let alone in line with exhaust ccv.
I guess this is how you definitively kill positive crankcase pressure.
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I was thinking the same thing.
Matutino - do you mind sharing your ccv vacuum/pressure readings with this setup at various rpm? (I would have to assume you tested the system, and it works)
I have been running the system for a while now with great success.
The exhaust back pressure is actually helping the set up as it always pulls vacuum thanks to the e-vac fitting so the pump is never "fighting" the exhaust back pressure.
The purpose of the pump is to shine when back pressure is actually not enough to pull vacuum.
If you remove the pump you will always have vacuum pulling more or less(if the e-vac fitting is installed correctly), I know many forum members have had great success and others not so much.
The Hobbs switch Im currently running is set at 7 PSI, I have another one that triggers at 2 PSI but never used it yet as I see 7 PSI almost instantly.
I tested the pump and saw a max of 6 PSI if I recall correctly after fixing some issues. I have a vide with a renamed engineer helping me when I first installed it and he endorse the system, check it out...
Also, I used this harness to provide power to the pump
Old set up: 520RWHP & 500RWTQ @ 20PSI 1/4 mile as of 7/26/15 12.5 @ 125MPH - 19PSI
New set up: Steedspeed Twinscroll, Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Blueprinted and Balanced, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) TwinScrol 1.06 exhaust housing, Nick G custom tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, UUC EVO III, UUC DSSR 109mm, EVO 6 Speed Driveshaft, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix data logger, 3" SS full exhaust, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Race coilovers.
the SAP just works. I probably have 3 years on mine with 0 issues. not to say the venturi wont work but it has to be played with. the venturi converts velocity into vacuum but there are windows of efficiency. turbulence, venturi placement, velocity, and orifice size all have to be in alignment and what I found is idle is very different than boosting.
the fitting venturi is not very forgiving. for example you have a semi barreling down the road at 75mph. if you pull a motorcycle within 3 feet of the bumper you get pulled along. iff the semi is doing 40 then you need to be 1 foot from the bumper. at 20 you need a bike half the size.
the idea is to create this drafting zone over the orifice in the pipe that leads to the vacuum line.
if you have ever drafted a semi (please dont do this) you will notice that at different speeds you get a buffeting side to side at certain points and depending on where you are at in the draft side winds of moderate velocity affect you less but as the low pressure zone moves side winds effect you more.
this isnt to discourage the venturi fitting. it works but its not as easy as it might appear. some guys get lucky and it works right away. some guys never got it to work and some guys know how it works.
I setup a test rig and controlled the area where velocity increases plus or minus 10mm. the orifice that pulls the max vacuum had a sweet spot about 2mm wide. I could be 5mm off but I would pull half the vacuum for a fixed velocity through the venturi. after finding the sweet spot I would take vacuum measurements based on halfing or doubling velocity and the relationship between exhaust velocity and vacuum had a very small window for linear increase/decrease in vacuum. on the low end it would drop off rapidly and the high end resulted in very little vacuum increase.
just be prepared to be lucky or spend some time with it. if you are dedicated you will get something.
Surprised no one has mentioned the stock Mustang Cobra pump .
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
I'm aware of it.
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Thanks for the detailed analysis. Very cool. I'll try my luck with it since I've had the parts sitting around forever. On the e30s52 it's not as crucial since it's NA. I just want to pull a little vacuum and avoid the smell. On the SCed e36 however, I'll see if I can pull enough vacuum (or at all) with the venturi fitting, and if not I still have my SAP in a parts box somewhere that I could rig up as well with the hobbs switch like matutino to supplement the venturi fitting.
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I also found this article from motoIQ a while back. It's an excellent dissemination of CCV options for N/A cars (and good info on the topic in general)
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...A-Edition.aspx
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And I think I just found the original source of the article from sr20-forum. There's a forced induction edition as well here:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/informatio...d-edition.html
glad to participate. sounds like your head is in the right place. I think the mustang pump was what I originally read about and I believe its a vane style pump. so when I had the idea that I needed to pull 30" of mercury (cuz allot is better than a little) I went to something that could pull a deep vacuum and flowed reasonably well. A 2hp DC diaphragm pump.!!!! when I would turn the pump on this noisy old 2.8 would go almost dead quiet. it scared the shite out of me. something was going to go wrong for sure. then the venturi's followed but I had to know what the motor was designed for. the oem ccv will not allow you to pull more than 10" of water column before it closes the check valve but I still like more. more in the form of flow. one of my customers was designing an elevator that used 4 shop vac motors to lift the elevator in a tube. like a bank tube. it worked and bingo it clicked. the SAP is a shop vac with no vanes. so im off to save the world with SAP's and discover guys were doing pretty similar things already. another discovery I made too late. Gotta learn how to use google better. Anyways, Im sure we all have done the same it just seems to be a pattern with me.
good luck, now Im off to invent a fishing pole you can keep in your pocket!
what is the advantage of pulling so much vacuum vs just venting to atmosphere?
they say you get horsepower from pulling a vacuum but I didnt notice anything. Venting did not control my oil smoke problem. a small low flow vacuum didnt either.
I've never heard of horsepower gains from our cars
as a result of pulling MORE vacuum.
The reason this trend started a few years back was to minimize oil pressure blowing through the oil feed/return lines
gathering in the charge pipes and down pipes/exhaust of quite a few members.
This was partly the result of inadequate crankcase venting.
"Sincere" boost builds up severe crankcase pressure and it can affect the system negatively.
I have three vent lines coming off my crankcase.
Two (2) off the pan
and one (1) off the valve cover.
They work very well,
even with my oil drain line attached to my oil drain PLUG location.
No issues to date.
Though there MAY be hp difference documented amoung other hot rod platforms
I doubt we've shown any data among our hot rodley's
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