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Thread: Rear window won't roll up?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1985 BMW 635CSi

    Rear window won't roll up?

    So today I went to pick up a friend from next town and since I don't have A/C I rolled all the windows down. All of them four have been working properly, but when I got back home the left rear wouldn't roll up. I tried to pull it with my hands but it seems to be stuck(there is some play too). When I press the button I can hear a "click" sound, I'm guessing it's from the motor trying to pull it up. I've been looking for a thread for a while but cant find one. What should I try first before messing something up? any suggestions ?

    Also, my AC is out, it does blow warm air from all vents. Should I use R12 and where can I find it?

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    Try using the manual override. It is detailed in the owner's manual using tools supplied in the factory tool kit. It may have settled to a spot and needs to be moved slightly to get it operating again. The procedure has also been detailed here previously.

    - - - Updated - - -

    R12 can be found from sources on Craigslist. You need to first determine if it has been converted previously and if there is a leak. Was it working recently? It may need a lot more than a recharge.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    1985 BMW 635csi Coupe
    When I bought my car all my windows wouldn't roll up or down very easy and moved very jagged. All I did was spray some silicone lubricant down the windows seal and they work like new now. If it's an electrical problem though that won't do anything.
    Last edited by Phoenix319; 06-14-2015 at 03:51 AM.
    1985 BMW 635csi

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinacsi View Post
    Try using the manual override. It is detailed in the owner's manual using tools supplied in the factory tool kit. It may have settled to a spot and needs to be moved slightly to get it operating again. The procedure has also been detailed here previously.

    - - - Updated - - -

    R12 can be found from sources on Craigslist. You need to first determine if it has been converted previously and if there is a leak. Was it working recently? It may need a lot more than a recharge.
    Thanks for the reply.

    Unfortunately my owners manual is in pretty bad condition, it seems it fell on water or something so all the pages are smudged. I think I can find one digital on the internet, I've seen it done before.

    The AC has been the same since I bought the car, I did not worried because I got it over winter. The previous owner did not knew if it was converted or not, he just had the car stored for a while. Is there any way to check if it's R12 or not ?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix319 View Post
    When I bought my car all my windows wouldn't roll up or down very easy and moved very jagged. All I did was spray some silicone lubricant down the windows seal and they work like new now. If it's an electrical problem though that won't do anything.

    One of my friends suggested that the window might have fallen off the rail. I'll try to do that and see if it works, like I've said previous: I can hear the little "click" of the motor, but it seems it might be stuck. I'm thinking it could also be that it hasn't been greased?

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Regarding the A/C. when it's been converted to R134 refrigerant the charging ports will have adapters threaded on which appear different - they're push-on type fittings for the hoses, rather than threaded. There is also a different oil added to the system, and you can't mix and match the various oils and refrigerants. There may also be a sticker somewhere indicating the conversion, and the original hoses should also be changed to "barrier" hoses. Whatever the case, find the problem first, or you're just throwing away refrigearnt and $. I recently bought a bunch of R12 on eBay.
    Dean
    Lutz, FL

    '85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
    '87 Spider Veloce
    '92 Spider Veloce
    '08 350Z


  6. #6
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    Check the rear window switch first - swap a few around to see if the terminals are dirty. It's a common problem. They can be carefully dismantled and cleaned. I like to use a points file or a bit of garnet paper with some DeOxyIT or other electrical contact cleaner. If the switch isn't passing enough current, the motor will click or thump a little and refuse to move.

    The rear windows can't really fall off the rail if they're anything like mine. The window is clamped to a single rail in the center. The side rails or wiper seals could be a little sticky though.
    Last edited by DesktopDave; 06-14-2015 at 03:42 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    1984 633CSi
    I had the same problem and it ended up being the switch in the console. It rolled down but would not roll up. I reconnected it and it started working again.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcains View Post
    Regarding the A/C. when it's been converted to R134 refrigerant the charging ports will have adapters threaded on which appear different - they're push-on type fittings for the hoses, rather than threaded. There is also a different oil added to the system, and you can't mix and match the various oils and refrigerants. There may also be a sticker somewhere indicating the conversion, and the original hoses should also be changed to "barrier" hoses. Whatever the case, find the problem first, or you're just throwing away refrigearnt and $. I recently bought a bunch of R12 on eBay.
    Awesome, I'll try to check on that. Thanks!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by DesktopDave View Post
    Check the rear window switch first - swap a few around to see if the terminals are dirty. It's a common problem. They can be carefully dismantled and cleaned. I like to use a points file or a bit of garnet paper with some DeOxyIT or other electrical contact cleaner. If the switch isn't passing enough current, the motor will click or thump a little and refuse to move.

    The rear windows can't really fall off the rail if they're anything like mine. The window is clamped to a single rail in the center. The side rails or wiper seals could be a little sticky though.
    Awesome, thanks guys. I'll try to do that tomorrow and keep you guys updated.

  9. #9
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    UPDATE. It's finished!!! I was able to fix it, I guess it was stuck.. I used some WD40 and electrical contact cleaner.

    I'm surprised how easy it was to remove everything from the panel.

    Here are some pictures
    .

    I had to mess with the plastic bolt. I've sprayed some WD-40 to the rails and just keep messing with it until it got loose then it was able to go up and down. Before that, I check with a local mechanic and he said it was the motor that ran out, geesh I'm glad I came here first.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
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    That "plastic bolt" is part of the manual override. The set screw in the middle is used to release the motor so you can manually turn the plastic hex to raise the window. All of the tools needed to do this are in the factory supplied tool kit. This can be done without removing any interior parts except the small diameter plug in the side panel. Not uncommon to have this happen on older cars. Best thing to do is power the window and bump it back up a hair before going on a day's drive.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpinacsi View Post
    That "plastic bolt" is part of the manual override. The set screw in the middle is used to release the motor so you can manually turn the plastic hex to raise the window. All of the tools needed to do this are in the factory supplied tool kit. This can be done without removing any interior parts except the small diameter plug in the side panel. Not uncommon to have this happen on older cars. Best thing to do is power the window and bump it back up a hair before going on a day's drive.
    Unfortunately there's only two tools in the mini tool box. I wish I had them though.

    Also there's a number 10 fuse that was out. As soon as I tried to replace the fuse, right when it touch the metal part the car turned on. I did not had the keys in the ignition, I actually had them right next to me. Any ideas of what could of been? Or what's that fuse used for?

  12. #12
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    http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

    - - - Updated - - -

    The tools required were simply the spark plug socket or anything that fits the hex and an Allen key to fit the set screw.

  13. #13
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    BMW 3 sieres e92 2.0
    Hi my 3 series e92 hardtop roof has opened fully and Lock d in the the boot like normal but the red light keeps blinking which won't allow my windows to come up. What can I do before taking to dealer . please help

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhruv288 View Post
    Hi my 3 series e92 hardtop roof has opened fully and Lock d in the the boot like normal but the red light keeps blinking which won't allow my windows to come up. What can I do before taking to dealer . please help
    Have you checked your owners manual for corrective action? I am sure they discuss a manual override there. Also; you should post this in an appropriate section on this site to get better response that is directed to your specific model. Good luck.

  15. #15
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    Okay thanks for your help alpinacsi

  16. #16
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    Wow - mine turned out to just be that the hex screw inside the white plastic nut was too tight!
    The symptoms fit a seized motor/regulator - just a faint click and no motion - but loosening the hex screw fixed it.
    Contrary to some instructions I found on-line, the hex screw needs to be tightened for manual override and loosened for normal use!

  17. #17
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    87-635 '78-R80/7 '96-960
    Just about every time I go out for a drive is to lower and raise the rear windows just to keep them exercised.

  18. #18
    Join Date
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    84 E24, 91 M5, E36's,E46
    Quote Originally Posted by dm635 View Post
    Just about every time I go out for a drive is to lower and raise the rear windows just to keep them exercised.
    same here, but my driver's side just stopped responding... time to investigate I guess.

    '84 Euro 635CSi Polaris/Pacific, for sale (maybe)
    Home of the Silver Bimmers: '91 M5, '84 Euro E24, "99 E36, "98 E36, '02 E46 xiT (yes, all silver)

  19. #19
    Join Date
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    '86 M635/'10 Clubman
    My passenger side window has stopped responding...

    I'm scared to see what regulators cost...

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
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    1987, BMW 635 CSi
    Hello, I fixed 2 not working rear windows today. The causes were different.
    Below what I did to fix it, perhaps it is of use for someone.

    RIGHT SIDE WINDOW
    20190630_192304.jpg
    Took out the back seat and side panel.
    20190630_192724.jpg
    Measured the 12v on the motor, it was there.
    20190630_193122.jpg
    Removed the motor from the mechanism (3 bolts on the back side).
    And powered it up, motor worked!
    Greased the mechanism and moved window up and down by hand.
    Installed the motor again.
    All set, solved.

    LEFT SIDE WINDOW

    The other window worked but only with the button in the back.
    20190701_180437.jpg
    Pushed out the button (do not use a screw driver, take out the gear shift cover and push the button from below).
    20190701_175357.jpg
    Opened up the switch and cleaned the copper with sanding paper and scotch brite.
    Sprayed it with contact spray.
    All working fine now!
    You could also buy a new switch on Ebay, they are sold very cheaply. Made in China though, I prefer a refurbished original switch.

    Instagram: @635sharknose
    Last edited by 635sharknose; 07-01-2019 at 02:48 PM.

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