Project "eBay E36"

[jalopi]

you probably won't see much benefit from option 1

option 3 - it's like, yeah the turbo + manifold and supporting stuff can be had for $1500, but that leaves you holding your wang in hand as far as a tune goes

option 2 - angle kit, that's the option i'd go with. but i'd find it hard to drop that much money on angle mods when deals like this can be found

http://www.driftknuckles.com/product...corn-angle-kit

[JesterMX6]

so after talking with a friend of mine, the only reason i'm leaning towards the clutch, with any other stuff i would pick up with the left over money, is that i know at some point, probably in the near future, the factory clutch will fail (it already slips a bit when driving it hard). at that point i'll be, as you said, holding my wang in my hand with an immovable car. as it stands now, i can't clutch kick at the speeds required for the track i run on. the car's throw-out bearing is also making noise and i have considerable chatter from the dual mass flywheel.

that unicorn kit though, that might be a nice option. in fact it looks like i could probably do the clutch AND that kit.

[trev dogg]

Okay so the 323i got sold before they even gave me a chance to look at it. moving on.

Let's say i were to allow myself around $1500 to spend on the car. Here's my options, and i'm looking for opinions from you guys.

Option 1: unsprung clutch/chromoly flywheel combo, exhaust, other odds and ends (intake boot to delete ASC section, panel delete cards, etc).

Option 2: SLR Ultra kit with the adjustable billet Lollipops

Option 3: eBay turbo kit to run a few PSI for some extra power since the drift course around here is a 60+ mph course.

I'm already leaning towards a certain decision and will more than likely stick to it, but if someone makes a compelling enough argument for a different option i'm easily swayed.

Don't hold back. I want all arguments.

how many times have you been out drifting on the track? if you go out often, then you should know exactly what you need next. if you dont go out too often, then i would suggest learning more with the stock set up - there is so much to learn and the stock stuff is very capable.

how much maintenance has been done on the car? cooling system should be bullet proof, along with solid/poly bushings anywhere you can, especially motor/trans mounts. what about your alignment? if you're serious about drifting, you should have modified trailing arm brackets + zero camber rear alignment already.

if you dont have a lot of seat time, i would go with option #1. if you drive a lot and you are getting bored, i vote option #2

[JesterMX6]

yeah after talking with a friend of mine i was leaning towards the clutch kit. after jalopi's post i'm thinking pairing the clutch kit with the driftknuckles kit would be exactly what i need at this point.

[jalopi]

dude's control arms seem a bit hacked though. doesn't look like he put more than a 1/4" bevel on each piece before welding. i'd have my arms extended by a reputable weld shop, just make sure they put something like a 1/2" bevel on each surface being welded and they'll hold up good

better yet put the bevel on yourself, best way to make sure they gave you good penetration

[JesterMX6]

i don't weld.

either way though, you make a good point. the SLR kit is nice and fancy, but if i can avoid spending over double what i paid for the car on just the angle kit, that'd be best.

I think i'll go for the cheaper option of extending my knuckles (either via unicorn or another means) with supporting mods, and get my clutch upgraded before it gives up on me completely.

thank you. you definitely saved me from spending the whole thing on just an angle kit.

[Mikestokman]

Lightweight flywheel and 6puck unsprung clutch is definitely a good idea, I got one last winter and it is probably one of my favourite things I've done to the car to date. That being said, if your stock one is decent, then an angle kit could make driving more fun aswell.

What about a 4th option, slr half kit, e46 arms, and the clutch/flywheel combo? I think that would cost under your budget (gripforce clutch/flywheel combo is $600 ish, slr half kit is in the 500$ range(?)) and then you still have some money for odds and ends, or on some new tires because new tires are sooo good to drift on.

[JesterMX6]

i'm getting front tires for sure. until i get power, i've had good luck running whatever used rears i can get my hands on.

[Mikestokman]

But like just wait until you drift on new rears. Whole. Noffa. Leval.

[JesterMX6]

my experience with new tires on other cars makes me think it'd be great while they're fresh and still have factory oils, then with all of 130hp it'd get difficult as they get worn and grippy, then it'd get easy again as they get heat cycled and hard. is that not the case?

oh and input on fronts. i'm looking at these in a 215/45R17:

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...5&rd=17&cs=215

[Mikestokman]

Not a big falken fan myself, ran a pair of rt615's once and they wore out super quick, look into federal 595ss or even triangle tr968's. That's what I run and they have plenty of grip for a steer tire while still being cheap.

[JesterMX6]

thanks i'll check em out. I ran Falken Azenis RT615 when i used to autox and, while they wore out fast (200 treadwear rating) they also gripped like mad.

edit: yeah these are nice and cheap. and have a better treadwear rating than the falkens, which means i can keep them on for daily use.

[Novablue454]

I also run 595s as steers, and then just kill Ecsta's in the rear.

[JesterMX6]

alright so i ordered a few things:

-Mishimoto silicone intake boot (delete the ASC assembly completely)
-FX Racing (i think?) Stage 4 Clutch and Chromoly flywheel kit
-Triangle tr968 since i found a better deal on them than the federals
-Delrin Shifter Carrier bushings

I still need to install my adjustable rear arms, but once i get all my parts on, i should be ready to go for the first event of the season in May.

[trev dogg]

nice! car will be plenty more fun with that new clutch. make sure you buy a good throw out bearing, dont use the one that comes in the kit. also ive found that the foam piece in the selector rod joint is usually the main culprit to sloppy shifters. its a really cheap and easy replacement, just be sure to do the selector rod seal at the same time or the same thing is gonna happen.

also you're probably annoyed with me by now, but i cannot stress enough how much easier ZERO CAMBER rear alignment makes drifting. i still dont see that on your list, it should be a main priority along with those rear camber arms you already have! easy and cheap to modify those rear trailing arm brackets, which will allow enough adjustment for 0 camber and some toe in.

[jalopi]

why is it people modify the trailing arm brackets? is it so that they can have a slammed car and zero camber with good toe? i'm very far from slammed with unmodified trailing arm brackets and getting the alignment dialed in with zero camber wasn't an issue

[Mikestokman]

your car is like stock height in the rear jalopi, once you take the adjusters for the spring out, you need to modify the bracket to get 0 camber. Also, I also will +1 trev's comment, 0 camber is bess. Even with a low power car, it still makes your shit way more predictable. And a predictable car means it's an easy car to drift.

[Novablue454]

your car is like stock height in the rear jalopi, once you take the adjusters for the spring out, you need to modify the bracket to get 0 camber. Also, I also will +1 trev's comment, 0 camber is bess. Even with a low power car, it still makes your shit way more predictable. And a predictable car means it's an easy car to drift.

Are the E46's the same way? I'm close to stock height and was under the impression I could get 0 camber with just the TMS camber arms.

[JesterMX6]

i'm leaving the adjusters in and already measured. i should be able to zero camber without modification. i have no desire to make sure my rear wheels tuck. function > form

[jalopi]

i'm about an inch or so lower than stock ride height, it's just the arch shape of the felony form fenders make these cars look like they're rally spec or something unless you (i suppose) remove the adjusters

and yeah, tucking/slamming is overrated, tires are expensive enough as-is without them rubbing off on your wheel well

[JesterMX6]

i think i'm about 2 or so inches lower than stock and i should still be able to zero camber the car without any extra modification. at least by the measurements i took so far. if my toe isn't 100% ideal I think i'll be okay for the first event, then either lift the car or modify the bracket after.

[tptrsn]

What toe setting do people seem to prefer for drifting along with the zero camber?

[JesterMX6]

i believe most people set the rear to zero camber and slight toe in.

[jalopi]

zero camber/zero toe will do you just fine for a long time as well

[trev dogg]

i think i'm about 2 or so inches lower than stock and i should still be able to zero camber the car without any extra modification. at least by the measurements i took so far. if my toe isn't 100% ideal I think i'll be okay for the first event, then either lift the car or modify the bracket after.

glad you're at least aware of the problem. i would modify them anyways just to have more than enough adjustment at all times but to each his own!

does this "ebay e36" have an ebay tune yet? just want to share who i use for obd1 tunes, the name is racing pros and they are on ebay! i've had great luck with his tunes and so have many other track guys, I am running an off the shelf tune($40) on my daily driver m50 and a custom tune by him for an obd1 m52($100). here is a link to his ebay store; http://www.ebay.com/usr/racing.pros?...p2047675.l2559


IMO all you need is his off the shelf tune for $40 and you will love the added power and raised rev limit, very much bang for the buck!

good luck and get out there and try to get us some video of your next drift day if you can!