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Thread: The Z3 Diagnostics Thread: Instructions, Experiences, Discussions, Experimentation

  1. #201
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    Success on the Dell Venue 8 with Windows 10!

    Issues, work-arounds, lessons learned, and other weirdness:
    -The Venue refused to download the whole package. I had to download on another PC.
    -The Venue installation would crash, refusing to unzip each step to the temp directory. I ran the first part of the install on the PC used for download, then copied the unpacked files to the Venue.
    -If you don't follow the instructions in step two, it won't work.
    -VAG-COM cables from Ross-Tech won't work (serial or USB - I tried the serial on an older laptop.) If you want to run VAG-COM on the same PC, just change the VAG-COM adapter's port to a different COM number.
    -I was fortunate to have an old generic USB/OBD cable laying around that came with an Audi I bought. Worked perfectly with the recommended driver.
    -It's cold in my garage, but the intermittent airbag codes have been banished (for now, anyway)

    Overall, this was a good use of winter's Sunday. I learned about Windows 10 (reluctantly), about BMW, and this cool tool. Huge thanks to 328 for his support and incredible supply of patience. To anyone working through this or contemplating installing it, re-read this thread again (yes, all of it) after you get the software running; it will be worth the time, I promise.
    1999 BMW M Coupe
    2002 BMW M Roadster

  2. #202
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    I am super glad it worked out.
    Have you tried installing your RossTech VAGCOM or VCDS with the 'alternate' drivers, that allow you to enable VCP (virtual com port)? I have been able to do a lot with VCDS cable, besides VCDS.
    I am also VERY familiar with VAG car diagnostics, and VCDS is among the best aftermarket diagnostics solution I have ever seen! And I have a full working VW original dealer diagnostics: ODIS with the dealer VAS5054a interface. VCDS beats it in many situations. But I keep ODIS for flashing original files and very in depth diagnostics with detailed test plan.





    Anyways... I'm now working on getting back my diagnostics capability on my 328is... the recent rains poured about half a gallon of water through the outside windshield cowling and into my driver's footwell. Made diagnostics and connecting to modules very sketchy. Carpet is out, and hopefully drying it all fixes it. There was no corrosion on wires, but a little on the body.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    Have you tried installing your RossTech VAGCOM or VCDS with the 'alternate' drivers, that allow you to enable VCP (virtual com port)? I have been able to do a lot with VCDS cable, besides VCDS.
    I am also VERY familiar with VAG car diagnostics, and VCDS is among the best aftermarket diagnostics solution I have ever seen! And I have a full working VW original dealer diagnostics: ODIS with the dealer VAS5054a interface. VCDS beats it in many situations. But I keep ODIS for flashing original files and very in depth diagnostics with detailed test plan.
    On the adapter, I haven't, but I will. The Venue is my main machine for diagnostics due to the size and capability, and since I have both the Ross-Tech cable and the cheapo cable working with their various platforms, I'll probably not fool with that.
    However, the older laptop that I was also playing with has a serial port and I also have a Ross-Tech serial cable. Maybe I will swap out the driver on that one and see if I can get both to work. I know the Ross-Tech adapters have their own oddball drivers.

    Also on that topic, I have been a Ross-Tech customer since I bought my first ISO-COM "ugly" adapter in 2000...or, more correctly, my wife bought it for me because she was tired of hearing me pontificate about whether it was worth the $200 that Uwe was charging back then. No one else in the Hartford area had it. I mentioned it to a friend who worked at the local Audi dealer, and he said that all the techs were talking about possibly buying, so I loaned them my rig for a week. Took me a month to get it back! Great stuff, great company; I can't say enough about them.

    ...and I'm not surprised that you fool around with that stuff too. I suspected so from some of your comments in this thread.



    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    Anyways... I'm now working on getting back my diagnostics capability on my 328is... the recent rains poured about half a gallon of water through the outside windshield cowling and into my driver's footwell. Made diagnostics and connecting to modules very sketchy. Carpet is out, and hopefully drying it all fixes it. There was no corrosion on wires, but a little on the body.
    That sux. Nothing is worse that water leaks. Good luck!
    Last edited by 4Driver4; 01-17-2016 at 07:48 PM.
    1999 BMW M Coupe
    2002 BMW M Roadster

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4Driver4 View Post

    That sux. Nothing is worse that water leaks. Good luck!


    Well it wasn't the water that took communications down... at all. So that is good news.


    Oddly enough, using the VAGKKL cable is the issue. (Error "IFH-0003 Datatransmission to interface disturbed" immediately when trying to scan a module). And I have 3 cables, and I've tried all 3. The VAGKKL cables all work on my other cars.... AND they used to work fine on the 328is. I have proof from a few months back. So confusing.

    I tried a few cables (I have all sorts), and an INPA K+DCAN cable works flawlessly with the car. No problems with diagnostics at all... NO idea why this is.
    The VAG KKL worked with the car just a few months back. Battery was a little low now, right at 12v, but that doesn't explain why the K+DCAN cable works... or does it??? I will get back outside after the battery tender does its job.



    I also noticed that the FTDI v2.12.00 driver has snuck itself on my computer again (this cursed Windows Update, turned all that off too, including driver search), and I am wondering if it did something to the cable. I put 2.10.00 back on again, after cleaning out all of FTDI drivers and registry values. I did not have any issues with PID being set to 0000 by the drivers (FTDI's old method of bricking clone chips).



    Oh well, at least the car doesn't have any problems... Only I have a problem now.. the unshakeable nagging desire to know the why and how!
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 01-21-2016 at 04:54 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  5. #205
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    Does the cable have any firmware in it?
    1999 BMW M Coupe
    2002 BMW M Roadster

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4Driver4 View Post
    Does the cable have any firmware in it?
    Missed this message. No firmware that I know of, just eeprom programming, but I already checked it. No changes.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  7. #207
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    Could someone shed some light on the “Rough” test.

    -Should the test be conducted when the engine is cold or hot or both? (Open-loop vs Closed-loop)
    -Similar to compression test readings, are we more concerned with differences between cylinders?
    -Should a tuned ECU have different readings than one with a stock ECU? Or is this more of a mechanical thing
    -Phil

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z-Thrizzle View Post
    Could someone shed some light on the “Rough” test.

    -Should the test be conducted when the engine is cold or hot or both? (Open-loop vs Closed-loop)
    -Similar to compression test readings, are we more concerned with differences between cylinders?
    -Should a tuned ECU have different readings than one with a stock ECU? Or is this more of a mechanical thing
    Sorry for late reply.

    I believe the Roughness test uses the crankshaft position sensor signal at each cylinder's ignition window to see the force of ignition (calculated from velocity of crank), compared to the other cylinders.

    I think a lot of info can be derived from testing hot vs. cold. But I honestly believe it would tell you more about the health of injectors and ignition.

    A compression failure would show off readings, but roughness isn't the test to verify this with.


    A tune may affect the roughness, not on individual cylinders, but rather as a whole. However, no mild tune touches ignition and fueling at idle. A tune for different size injectors should have idle edited as well.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 03-02-2016 at 11:24 AM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    Small update to the first thread.


    Any other issues, recommendations, or anything for clarification?

    - - - Updated - - -




    Here is what the DBW reaction maps look like for MS42 and MS43. X-Axis: Engine Speed in rpm vs. Y-Axis: Desired Throttle position in %. Data is the actual throttle position.

    Notice how The middle area is 'softened' to get a smooth reaction? That is the reason for the perceived lag.

    Attachment 556711
    You posted this ages ago and I never replied...would you mind posting the steps involved in modifying the throttle map and what you've changed it to, or pointing me in a direction on where I can find that info? Thanks.
    2001 Z3 3.0 Coupe--Sterling Gray/Sunroof Delete/5MT

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by kornfeld View Post
    You posted this ages ago and I never replied...would you mind posting the steps involved in modifying the throttle map and what you've changed it to, or pointing me in a direction on where I can find that info? Thanks.
    Short answer (long answer will come later):
    You will need the flash read, the 64kb partial (MS43) is enough. (Can be done with the K+DCAN cable, maybe KKL cable as well.. with a tweaked version of Galletto 1260 software.)
    Then the DBW maps need to be found and edited.
    Correct checksums and flash back.


    I've done this to improve MS42 (M52TUB25) a little, can get it even more linear. But then again MS42/M52tu cars didn't have it as bad.






    I don't have an M54 to play with. Maps are similar-ish.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 03-02-2016 at 10:36 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  11. #211
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    Hello, first post in this thread. About a month ago 328 Power 04 recommended that I head over here to learn/ask questions. We have five (soon to be six) e36'es in the family, all m52b28 328i/iS with production dates between 8/96 and 3/97. The one exception is the 325tds that is m51b25.

    Our most recent addition to the lineup, a 3/97 328iS, has been a problem child from the get-go. Several months ago I picked it up from a local mechanic who took the car in trade from a customer. Price was low enough that we bought the car almost sight-unseen. My kid was picking up her 328i sedan from a wheel alignment, mechanic mentioned to her "tell your dad I have a car for him", she took a few cell phone photos and the rest was history. Initial description from the mechanic was that he could not get it sorted and the rear subframe mount points were cracked. The car has idle + downstream O2 heater circuit issues/errors. Initially I thought it was mechanical (o2 sensors + ICV/vacuum leaks) but that turned out not to be the case.

    Picked up the car about seven months ago. Brought it home and parked it behind the garage where it sat untouched for a few months. Over the holidays we had a loss in the family and needed to shift around some license plates (she wanted to keep a plate in the family). Only vehicle that didn't have an active registration was this 3/97 328iS so about two months ago the car went into the garage so I could do the rear suspension/subframe and sort the emissions CEL's so the thing would pass inspection. When I started going through the car I found several DME's, cables and a ton of electronics components in the trunk. Interesting I thought... As I started going through the car and the PO's chicken-scratch notes, it became more and more apparent that the PO was attempting to make a custom flash for the DME; I believe with different fuel mappings as well as a downstream O2 sensor delete --and that there was nothing mechanically wrong with the car.

    About a month ago I was ready to start in on the INPA/DME work --and then the hood latch release cable snapped. Fast forward to a month later and the car has been completely overhauled. The whole nose & fenders came off so some rust could be properly addressed, did a cooling system overhaul, VANOS rebuild, confirmed the car has M3 cams, M50 intake manifold and some type of what appears to be a BB ASC TB, did a bunch of engine gaskets, motor mounts, flex brake lines, front wheel bearings and various other items. Car has been completely gone through and cleaned and sorted. Now its finally time to address the DME so the thing will pass inspection. I understand the implications of what I am asking/looking to do. Although it will be registered for use on the street, this car is going to be used by my daughter and I strictly for driving events, track days and autocross events.

    I've purchased the cables in the instructions (USB + 20-pin to OBD) and have several options for a computer. My main computer on the workbench is an old Dell T7400 running Linux (Ubuntu 14.04 LTS) with a couple VMs, including an XP Pro 32-bit SP3 VM. I also have a couple spare PCs (with db9 ports) that I can put XP Pro SP3 on as well as a couple laptops (without db9 ports and probably dead/bad batteries). I do a little bit of IT/MSP work and my gut says a dedicated machine with a DB9 port running XP Pro 32-bit would probably be easiest since I have the space/hardware. On the other hand, a VM would be convenient as well since it would not take up any space and I can access its console or RDP into it from my desk/office.

    Should I worry about XP or have you guys gotten far enough that things can be run on 7 (I assume 32-bit??) with confidence and reliability? I have no preference as this will be a dedicated machine so looking for whatever is most reliable and stable.

    In terms of bare metal vs. VM, I realize that a VM will always be a little more complicated. Personally I'd rather a VM but I'm not that confident with Linux VMs (I use ESXi heavily). Should I K.I.S.S. and use a bare metal PC?

    I understand the challenges with USB extenders/long USB & serial cable runs. Has anyone played with or had any luck with running over Ethernet? If not I'll get this thing running/working and then try to figure that out. I assume I should be able to spin up a remote VM and then with a PoE powered adapter connect to the car with a simple USB or Serial to Ethernet adapter?? Should make things easy to run a Hyper-V VM inside most people's desktops. Would make programming much easier.

    Shortly I would like to be flashing the DME with modified versions of firmware. Can this be done exclusively via USB? Do I need to be concerned with serial/DB9 ports and TinyADS or will the USB cable work fine to access all the systems I need/want to access? (these are US spec M52B28 motors with chassis productions between 8/96-3/97)

    Is there anything else I need to know? Any pointers to get the software up & running ASAP quickly and easily? Do I need to install the whole suite of software to be doing things like flashing the DME with a firmware that omits or excludes the downstream O2 sensors?

    Thanks. Looking forward to getting into this.

  12. #212
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    I picked up a refurbed netbook from Fry's that came preloaded with Windows 7 so I had something pretty much solely dedicated to using on my car. Everything is up and running without issue.

    The only detail I would add is that when you're following the instructions in the first post of this thread, Windows 7 counts as "newer windows."
    Last edited by kornfeld; 03-07-2016 at 11:04 AM.
    2001 Z3 3.0 Coupe--Sterling Gray/Sunroof Delete/5MT

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by kornfeld View Post
    I picked up a refurbed netbook from Fry's that came preloaded with Windows 7 so I had something pretty much solely dedicated to using on my car. Everything is up and running without issue.

    The only detail I would add is that when you're following the instructions in the first post of this thread, Windows 7 counts as "newer windows."
    So rather than dealing with the compatibility shenanigans would it be easier to do an XP install?

    I'm also asking because I'd like to deal with the USB & Serial over Ethernet issue at some point soon. If most people are running 7/8/10 I don't mind a little extra work on my end (XP compatibility) getting that sorted if it is for the better of the community. If you guys are all going to help me I might as well give back something useful.

  14. #214
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    Per 328 Power 04, ADS drivers do not work in Win7 64-bit. Win32 with compatibility mode could still work.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1215 View Post
    So rather than dealing with the compatibility shenanigans would it be easier to do an XP install?

    I'm also asking because I'd like to deal with the USB & Serial over Ethernet issue at some point soon. If most people are running 7/8/10 I don't mind a little extra work on my end (XP compatibility) getting that sorted if it is for the better of the community. If you guys are all going to help me I might as well give back something useful.
    I think you missed an important sentence in my post: "Everything is up and running without issue."

    (I admittedly haven't used every single functionality of the software to verify that literally everything is working, but I haven't seen any signs that it's having issues.)
    2001 Z3 3.0 Coupe--Sterling Gray/Sunroof Delete/5MT

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1215 View Post
    Hello, first post in this thread. About a month ago 328 Power 04 recommended that I head over here to learn/ask questions. We have five (soon to be six) e36'es in the family, all m52b28 328i/iS with production dates between 8/96 and 3/97. The one exception is the 325tds that is m51b25.

    Our most recent addition to the lineup, a 3/97 328iS, has been a problem child from the get-go. Several months ago I picked it up from a local mechanic who took the car in trade from a customer. Price was low enough that we bought the car almost sight-unseen. My kid was picking up her 328i sedan from a wheel alignment, mechanic mentioned to her "tell your dad I have a car for him", she took a few cell phone photos and the rest was history. Initial description from the mechanic was that he could not get it sorted and the rear subframe mount points were cracked. The car has idle + downstream O2 heater circuit issues/errors. Initially I thought it was mechanical (o2 sensors + ICV/vacuum leaks) but that turned out not to be the case.

    Picked up the car about seven months ago. Brought it home and parked it behind the garage where it sat untouched for a few months. Over the holidays we had a loss in the family and needed to shift around some license plates (she wanted to keep a plate in the family). Only vehicle that didn't have an active registration was this 3/97 328iS so about two months ago the car went into the garage so I could do the rear suspension/subframe and sort the emissions CEL's so the thing would pass inspection. When I started going through the car I found several DME's, cables and a ton of electronics components in the trunk. Interesting I thought... As I started going through the car and the PO's chicken-scratch notes, it became more and more apparent that the PO was attempting to make a custom flash for the DME; I believe with different fuel mappings as well as a downstream O2 sensor delete --and that there was nothing mechanically wrong with the car.

    About a month ago I was ready to start in on the INPA/DME work --and then the hood latch release cable snapped. Fast forward to a month later and the car has been completely overhauled. The whole nose & fenders came off so some rust could be properly addressed, did a cooling system overhaul, VANOS rebuild, confirmed the car has M3 cams, M50 intake manifold and some type of what appears to be a BB ASC TB, did a bunch of engine gaskets, motor mounts, flex brake lines, front wheel bearings and various other items. Car has been completely gone through and cleaned and sorted. Now its finally time to address the DME so the thing will pass inspection. I understand the implications of what I am asking/looking to do. Although it will be registered for use on the street, this car is going to be used by my daughter and I strictly for driving events, track days and autocross events.

    I've purchased the cables in the instructions (USB + 20-pin to OBD) and have several options for a computer. My main computer on the workbench is an old Dell T7400 running Linux (Ubuntu 14.04 LTS) with a couple VMs, including an XP Pro 32-bit SP3 VM. I also have a couple spare PCs (with db9 ports) that I can put XP Pro SP3 on as well as a couple laptops (without db9 ports and probably dead/bad batteries). I do a little bit of IT/MSP work and my gut says a dedicated machine with a DB9 port running XP Pro 32-bit would probably be easiest since I have the space/hardware. On the other hand, a VM would be convenient as well since it would not take up any space and I can access its console or RDP into it from my desk/office.

    Should I worry about XP or have you guys gotten far enough that things can be run on 7 (I assume 32-bit??) with confidence and reliability? I have no preference as this will be a dedicated machine so looking for whatever is most reliable and stable.

    In terms of bare metal vs. VM, I realize that a VM will always be a little more complicated. Personally I'd rather a VM but I'm not that confident with Linux VMs (I use ESXi heavily). Should I K.I.S.S. and use a bare metal PC?

    I understand the challenges with USB extenders/long USB & serial cable runs. Has anyone played with or had any luck with running over Ethernet? If not I'll get this thing running/working and then try to figure that out. I assume I should be able to spin up a remote VM and then with a PoE powered adapter connect to the car with a simple USB or Serial to Ethernet adapter?? Should make things easy to run a Hyper-V VM inside most people's desktops. Would make programming much easier.

    Shortly I would like to be flashing the DME with modified versions of firmware. Can this be done exclusively via USB? Do I need to be concerned with serial/DB9 ports and TinyADS or will the USB cable work fine to access all the systems I need/want to access? (these are US spec M52B28 motors with chassis productions between 8/96-3/97)

    Is there anything else I need to know? Any pointers to get the software up & running ASAP quickly and easily? Do I need to install the whole suite of software to be doing things like flashing the DME with a firmware that omits or excludes the downstream O2 sensors?

    Thanks. Looking forward to getting into this.
    I have a few e36 based cars, and only use USB cable, while my tinyads collects dust.
    On my 328is and M Coupe, only Kombi (instrument cluster) NEEDS ADS. E36 M3s ABS/ASC also needs ADS. Otherwise, in the USA, you will be fine without.

    I am currently trying to get away from needing old laptop with built-in serial port at all, with an expresscard Serial port and this mod http://blog.jaroslavklima.com/2011/0...th-pcmcia.html

    I use Windows 8.1 64-bit (surface pro tablet) with a few mods to never see/experience horrible Metro interface. I code, flash, and diagnose a bunch of BMWs new and old with it. Easy to carry and quite powerful.


    I flash DME all the time over USB, whether using WinKFP or Siemens MS41 flash tool. You should check RomRaider if you want to edit downstream O2s. http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=42


    I honestly think you are complicating yourself heavily trying to run it over VM. This runs well on even the newest laptops or windows tablets.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 03-07-2016 at 01:40 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    I honestly think you are complicating yourself heavily trying to run it over VM. This runs well on even the newest laptops or windows tablets.
    Thanks for the heads up/tip. I'll throw XP Pro x86 on a bare metal machine and start from there. I've got a lot going on in the garage/workshop and I'd rather centralize as much as I can. I'll kill a laptop quick in there (keyboard) so I'd rather have a single point of failure (one keyboard & mouse to die vs. many) which is why I am partial to the VMs. For now it'll be an Optiplex 755usff shoved into a milk crate on casters.

    Once I get what I need and I have everything stable and running I'll start brainstorming for a creative solution.

    I've followed the directions twice and keep getting hung up on INPA install. Also do I need to be running EDIABAS 6.4.7 if I'll use ADS cable? Yes?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1215 View Post
    I've followed the directions twice and keep getting hung up on INPA install. Also do I need to be running EDIABAS 6.4.7 if I'll use ADS cable? Yes?
    Where are you getting stuck?


    Yes, you must run maximum 6.4.7 for ADS.

    I put this up for being able to switch back and forth between old ediabas (6.4.7) with ADS, and newer. Just a factor of switching the ediabas folder.

    https://drive.google.com/folderview?...xIRzhYTms#list
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 03-07-2016 at 04:28 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    Where are you getting stuck?
    Was getting hung up on a DOA/faulty USB cable. Now that I've got that sorted it seems to be working but I have no idea what I am doing/looking at. Really the only things I'd like to learn how to do is reset basic CEL lights/codes and modify the DME such that it overlooks downstream O2 sensors and so that I can tweak RPM redline, A/F mixture ratios, etc.

    Where/how does RomRaider come into play? Do I need a TinyADS cable?
    Thanks.

  20. #220
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    12,459
    My Cars
    36 Cylinders
    Quote Originally Posted by 1215 View Post
    Was getting hung up on a DOA/faulty USB cable. Now that I've got that sorted it seems to be working but I have no idea what I am doing/looking at. Really the only things I'd like to learn how to do is reset basic CEL lights/codes
    Then you use INPA and E36 section to find the module you are trying to scan. Enter the module's menu, and go to the Error menu, usually F4. There you will be able to read and clear.


    Quote Originally Posted by 1215 View Post
    and modify the DME such that it overlooks downstream O2 sensors and so that I can tweak RPM redline, A/F mixture ratios, etc.

    Where/how does RomRaider come into play? Do I need a TinyADS cable?
    Thanks.
    RomRaider and/or other tuning tools come into play here for editing the ECU maps. You will need a program that can read the ECU flash (like chipster.no Siemens MS41 Flash Tool), then you perform your edits with RomRaider (not for beginners at all, lots of research and reading required), and flash it back to the ECU.




    TinyADS is for modules that require ADS connection. Your 328i/is only need ADS for connecting to the instrument cluster (KOMBI). Since you pretty much do not ever need to scan your instrument cluster, and considering the challenges in setting up ADS, it is easier to stick with USB cable and 20-pin adapter.

    If you have a USA model 96-99 E36 M3 then you also need ADS to connect to ABS/ASC (discussions about this are a few pages back). This is the reason why I have a TinyADS in the first place. I helped a friend recode an E36 M3 from auto to manual, and needed to recode the Kombi and ASC. Since then TinyADS sits somewhere as a decoration...
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 03-12-2016 at 01:12 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  21. #221
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Virginia Beach Va.
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 325i
    Thank you for all of your hard work and sharing all of this info.
    I am having a problem installing the software. I am running windows 8, after downloading the software and extracting to a new folder, I change compatibility mode to windows xp service pack 3, press install and nothing happens, install screen just dissappears???? any help would be greatly appreciated!
    Last edited by graver757; 03-14-2016 at 06:25 PM.

  22. #222
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    UTC-5:00
    Posts
    568
    My Cars
    X5, R90/6
    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    Then you use INPA and E36 section to find the module you are trying to scan. Enter the module's menu, and go to the Error menu, usually F4. There you will be able to read and clear.
    Thanks. Needed to sink in about selecting a module to scan. I was thinking it was similar to a RealOEM type menu where I was selecting the specifics of the car, not selecting what I want to scan in the car.

    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    RomRaider and/or other tuning tools come into play here for editing the ECU maps. You will need a program that can read the ECU flash (like chipster.no Siemens MS41 Flash Tool), then you perform your edits with RomRaider (not for beginners at all, lots of research and reading required), and flash it back to the ECU.
    This sounds right up my alley. I have a bunch of experience working with and programming FPGAs and back in the early days of MegaSquirt I built and retrofitted several engines with programmable ECUs. Just need to know the definitions (looks like they are on RR) and the acceptable values within the fields.

    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    TinyADS is for modules that require ADS connection. Your 328i/is only need ADS for connecting to the instrument cluster (KOMBI). Since you pretty much do not ever need to scan your instrument cluster, and considering the challenges in setting up ADS, it is easier to stick with USB cable and 20-pin adapter.

    If you have a USA model 96-99 E36 M3 then you also need ADS to connect to ABS/ASC (discussions about this are a few pages back). This is the reason why I have a TinyADS in the first place. I helped a friend recode an E36 M3 from auto to manual, and needed to recode the Kombi and ASC. Since then TinyADS sits somewhere as a decoration...
    Thanks. Got it.

    I'm worried because I'm starting to think this is much easier than it sounds. I don't know if its what I do for a living or if it's me being naive, I hope not the latter. Has no one come up with an alternative solution to bridge the pins manually to enter write-mode as shown on the MS41 site?

  23. #223
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    12,459
    My Cars
    36 Cylinders
    It's not hard if you already get it. I'm 'Enabled' on there, and I correlated all of the MS41.1 ID60 ecu definitions (USA 328i/is), to bring it up to par to their already fully defined MS41.2.

    Sadly though, I've since converted my 328is to MS41.2 (and adapted all the 328 maps into it) for a few benefits. But efforts were not in vain, because at least the 328 flash is near completely defined as well.

    Send me a PM with the partial read and full read of your current flash.



    And I do not think that there might be an alternate way to enable write mode... because you have to do the same exact procedure to flash the MS41 with factory tools.

    It's easy though, bridge 2&17 and 14&18 of the 20-pin port and write using the inside OBD port. I've flashed over 40 times on each car, and it isn't horrible.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  24. #224
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    UTC-5:00
    Posts
    568
    My Cars
    X5, R90/6
    Quote Originally Posted by graver757 View Post
    Thank you for all of your hard work and sharing all of this info.
    I am having a problem installing the software. I am running windows 8, after downloading the software and extracting to a new folder, I change compatibility mode to windows xp service pack 3, press install and nothing happens, install screen just dissappears???? any help would be greatly appreciated!
    8 or 8.1? 32 or 64 bit? What type of computer? (brand, model, RAM & HDD type/size used) I'll try and spin up a VM and get you some better instructions specific to your OS & machine but would need to know more info. (I'm also new to this so may be not much help.)

    328 Power 04, What am I supposed to be seeing or what is supposed to be happening? I thought it was working fine but now this is what I'm getting:


















    What's going on with this -- or what should I be getting/looking at on those screens?

  25. #225
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Timaru, New Zealand
    Posts
    1,132
    My Cars
    Two Z3 Roadsters
    Hi

    Looks like INPA is running fine and is crashing when you actually try and connect to the car. Do you have the same com port assigned in both the USB lead and INPA?

    For example:
    - In device Manager, my USB lead is on com port 6.
    - In INPA, although I assigned com port 6 during the installation, it still ended up looking to com port 1. Had to edit the com port setting in C:\EDIABAS\Bin\ODB.ini to also be com port 6.

    Now the only time I get error messages is when I try and access a module that my car does not have or the car is not set right, e.g key on position 2 for DME or engine running for ABS test features. Are you selecting the right DME etc?

    Hope this helps

    Regards

    Muzz
    Last edited by Muzz258; 03-14-2016 at 09:47 PM.
    1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
    2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,

    There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.

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