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Thread: The Z3 Diagnostics Thread: Instructions, Experiences, Discussions, Experimentation

  1. #626
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Lexington, KY
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    99 Coupe Hell Yeah Red
    Thanks! I have those installed, also. ....and I now see that there are instructions for coding in the first post.

  2. #627
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Lexington, KY
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    99 Coupe Hell Yeah Red
    Thanks! I have those installed, also. ....and I now see that there are instructions for coding in the first post.

  3. #628
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    19
    My Cars
    Only BMW's for last 30 y
    Hi,
    Any advice regarding update?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ysi View Post
    Hi,
    Recently, I check which version of software I have installed and used.
    I found out that I have INPA 5.0.0 and EDIABAS 4.02

    Currently available INPA 5.0.6 and EDIABAS 7.3.0

    How to properly update these 2 program ?

    Do I need to uninstall whole package or just run installation on top existing?

    But also will deleted NCSExpert, Win KFP and Tool32 because all placed under one program in Windows as "BMW standard Tools, version 2.12.0"
    I have installed it on laptop with Windows 7 operating system.

  4. #629
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Lexington, KY
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    99 Coupe Hell Yeah Red
    Was trying to code my used ABS+ASC module in NCSExpert, however, when I select "process ecu" window there is no option to choose DSC or ABS+ASC. It's simply not there.
    Any ideas? I can read EWS without issue. The ABS light has turned off since the swap but the ASC light is still on.
    Last edited by Zoupe6; 06-13-2018 at 12:03 AM.

  5. #630
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Houston, TX
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    Can you post a screenshot of what you see on the list? That is odd.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  6. #631
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Lexington, KY
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    99 Coupe Hell Yeah Red
    I dropped the car off this morning to have the AC condenser replaced, and have the module coded. I'll see if I can recreate it when I get the car back.

  7. #632
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Georgia
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    2004 M3
    Abel, what PSU are you using while coding? I know for a lot of situations the flash will be fast so you could really just get by with a good battery (and maybe a high amp charger at worst) or simply have the car running if you are not flashing the DME, but I would love to hear your practices. Thanks!

  8. #633
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    For coding (meaning NCS Expert program for vehicle settings), I do not use a power supply at all. Car battery is more than adequate for that.

    For flashing of modules (changing module software/firmware), it depends. If it's a single module on E36-E46, I will generally do it on car battery unassisted, if I know the battery is good (max 10 minutes). If it's multiple modules, a newer car, or radiator fans will come on, I use a digital battery charger that holds 14.0V +- 0.1V, which automatically adapts the amps as needed to keep up to demand.

    I pretty much never have the car running.

    If it's just a DME flash update for your M3, for example, you can get by flashing on a healthy battery and all power consumers off.
    YMMV though. I have multiple backup plans if something were to fail, and multiple tools to recover failures.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  9. #634
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Georgia
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    2004 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    For coding (meaning NCS Expert program for vehicle settings), I do not use a power supply at all. Car battery is more than adequate for that.

    For flashing of modules (changing module software/firmware), it depends. If it's a single module on E36-E46, I will generally do it on car battery unassisted, if I know the battery is good (max 10 minutes). If it's multiple modules, a newer car, or radiator fans will come on, I use a digital battery charger that holds 14.0V +- 0.1V, which automatically adapts the amps as needed to keep up to demand.

    I pretty much never have the car running.

    If it's just a DME flash update for your M3, for example, you can get by flashing on a healthy battery and all power consumers off.
    YMMV though. I have multiple backup plans if something were to fail, and multiple tools to recover failures.
    Thank you for your contributions. They are very helpful as usual. I can't imagine how many people you have helped with this thread and installation alone! Would you mind sharing the charger you are referring to? I was under the impression that only things like a real PSU would be able to do that? I have access to a few server power supplies that I can DIY if nothing else. The only things I am finding are professional grade and $400ish.

    Truthfully, I'm mostly concerned with my wife's e90 330i as it seems to draw significantly more amps at baseline... and curiosity/to tinker with ISTA. I like being prepared and having backup plans as well.

  10. #635
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    san diego
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    ...it depands
    Neopolymath, I think you are overthinking it.

    In my case, I run Canadia DRL. And with it, I can still perform either full-flash or full-backup with a healthy battery. And ifI need to do more, I just connect a simple battery charger purchaed from Walmart.

    Now, I am sure Abel will correct me in his next post as usual. ;-)
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
    2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
    Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
    - Zach

  11. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by neopolymath View Post
    Thank you for your contributions. They are very helpful as usual. I can't imagine how many people you have helped with this thread and installation alone! Would you mind sharing the charger you are referring to? I was under the impression that only things like a real PSU would be able to do that? I have access to a few server power supplies that I can DIY if nothing else. The only things I am finding are professional grade and $400ish.

    Truthfully, I'm mostly concerned with my wife's e90 330i as it seems to draw significantly more amps at baseline... and curiosity/to tinker with ISTA. I like being prepared and having backup plans as well.
    I use a charger that I incidentally discovered while going through some of my dad's things at home.

    It's a 10+ year old charger made by a company that is no longer around, Vector.

    It looks just like the one on the right except much more aged.
    tmp_14679-88741_ts114136130.jpg


    It has the most "pure" and steady voltage I have seen, and while flashing some newer F chassis cars, it had no trouble holding 14.0V even with lights turning on, modules being turned off/reset, etc. It immediately turned up/down the amps as needed. ISTA-P quickly complains when voltage is under 13.0v or over 15.0V, and pauses everything. With this charger I never had any issues.
    So I use that. I just used it to update everything on my F31 wagon. Probably impossible to find now, and I am sure it wasn't more than $50.

    A server power supply can work too, but I never had to use that. The device I use is very portable and good for my needs.



    But anyways, if you plan to play with ISTA-D (diagnostics), you don't really need a charger.

    If you plan to play with ISTA-P (programming), I will warn you right now, that ISTA-P with a K+DCAN or other cheapo USB cable WILL brick modules... And very often.
    Do not use ISTA-P with anything other than a proper interface such as an ICOM. Very very dangerous.

    Most of the people that come to me for rescue got themselves into trouble just playing around and bricked a ton of modules. If you have no reason to flash, do NOT. It never adds additional cool features.


    If you must flash E Chassis, learn to use WinKFP. It's safer in many aspects, faster too.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  12. #637
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Great Dismal Swamp
    Posts
    16,026
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    E36/7 E36/8x2 E46 F25
    What I look for in a charger is a Coast Guard / Marine rating. To have that, they have enough smarts to not overcharge the battery.


    /.randy

  13. #638
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    67
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    2004 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    I use a charger that I incidentally discovered while going through some of my dad's things at home.

    It's a 10+ year old charger made by a company that is no longer around, Vector.

    It looks just like the one on the right except much more aged.
    tmp_14679-88741_ts114136130.jpg


    It has the most "pure" and steady voltage I have seen, and while flashing some newer F chassis cars, it had no trouble holding 14.0V even with lights turning on, modules being turned off/reset, etc. It immediately turned up/down the amps as needed. ISTA-P quickly complains when voltage is under 13.0v or over 15.0V, and pauses everything. With this charger I never had any issues.
    So I use that. I just used it to update everything on my F31 wagon. Probably impossible to find now, and I am sure it wasn't more than $50.

    A server power supply can work too, but I never had to use that. The device I use is very portable and good for my needs.



    But anyways, if you plan to play with ISTA-D (diagnostics), you don't really need a charger.

    If you plan to play with ISTA-P (programming), I will warn you right now, that ISTA-P with a K+DCAN or other cheapo USB cable WILL brick modules... And very often.
    Do not use ISTA-P with anything other than a proper interface such as an ICOM. Very very dangerous.

    Most of the people that come to me for rescue got themselves into trouble just playing around and bricked a ton of modules. If you have no reason to flash, do NOT. It never adds additional cool features.


    If you must flash E Chassis, learn to use WinKFP. It's safer in many aspects, faster too.
    Thanks as always. I had plans to secure an ICOM setup if I decided to go that route with newer cars. I will certainly follow your advice.

    And Randy, I hope your health is improving. Your wisdom is always appreciated as well.

  14. #639
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by neopolymath View Post
    Thanks as always. I had plans to secure an ICOM setup if I decided to go that route with newer cars. I will certainly follow your advice.

    And Randy, I hope your health is improving. Your wisdom is always appreciated as well.
    Wise plan. Be VERY careful with ICOM clones out there. They are not all the same. Research them well.


    I still WinKFP with my ICOM. ISTA-P will boot up and barely figure out the measures plan in the time I updated 1 or 2 modules with WinKFP. Good specs on laptop too...
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 07-02-2018 at 06:03 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  15. #640
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    UTC-5:00
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    X5, R90/6
    Hello. It's been a while since I've posted in this thread. I understand the rules around posting/asking questions like this. I'm looking for some guidance, not an exact how-to.

    Recently replaced my kid's e36 328is with an '09 328ix. Wife suggested maybe I keep the old e36 and start racing again (maybe track, maybe LeMons, maybe AutoX). I have inpa, rom raider, etc. I've done tunes before but it's been a couple years and my brain is failing me. For stuff like air pump and secondary O2 deletes, is that just a checkbox/switch in INPA or does that stuff require rom raider and a flash? Registration and insurance run out on this vehicle August 31st/September 1st. Won't go back on the road after that. Thanks.

  16. #641
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Houston, TX
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    36 Cylinders
    INPA cannot do it.
    It must be done in the flash.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  17. #642
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    INPA cannot do it.
    It must be done in the flash.
    Thank you. I'll sort the rest. I appreciate it.

  18. #643
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    boston massachusetts
    Posts
    715
    My Cars
    1999 e39 528i and 540i/6
    Hey all, I cheaped out on the cable on amazon, purchasing this cable.

    I do have the green circuit board and i'm pretty sure it is not the issue.

    That said, the software included installs fine, version of inpa is 5.0.1 i believe; the latency is set to 1ms, and the com port is 1. no errors thus far.


    when i plug in the car and open the program, no attempts at communication. I have been going at this for too many hours and at this point i would so much appreciate somebody who is familiar with this stuff to pm me and try to figure out where this is all failing.

    i have windows 8 64 bit (which seems to be the least desirable version), and at this point i have deleted everything i have already tried to a clean slate. The drivers are also at this point, no longer installed.

    As for the files i have for software, in the amazon description is the link, but i also have the files from bimmergeeks downloaded, and i have the software linked in this thread from g.drive.


    The vehicle i need to communicate with is an e92 328xi, prod 09/07.


    Any help i can get is so much appreciated, i thought i was good with computers until this.

    P.s. The only functions i'm looking for are code-reading, and recoding features like fob chime and other minor stuff.
    Bonus if i can flash something to wake my n51 up (3-stage intake present); ultra bonus if i can plug in any other obd2 vehicle (i'm a mobile mechanic with a subpar scanner) even if it takes other software.

    However one step at a time, like i said, i have a clean slate at this point as far as my computer knowledge allows.
    Last edited by tortoracer; 07-24-2018 at 10:16 AM.

  19. #644
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    There's nothing wrong with win8.1 64-bit. These programs work just fine on it. I use win8 because it's very quick, but not cumbersome as win10. Seriously, win10 fights you at every moment when you try to use it for car diag stuff.
    Anyways,

    First, install the 2.12.00 drivers included in my pack, and verify that your computer recognizes the cable in device manager.

    Then simply install my pack, first the Standard tools installer as administrator and with Xp service pack 3 compatibility. Ignore the stuff about environmental variables, as the installer puts it in by itself. You don't even have to restart.
    Then run the data loader as administrator.

    Once that is done, all you have to do is verify that the com ports match in device manager and the obd.ini file. (*Note: install whole pack first, then check/edit COM ports after.)
    It doesn't have to be COM1, it can be any COM number, as long as they match. Sometimes some laptops have COM1 taken up by something else, so you do not want to be doubling them.

    If all that has been followed and double checked, and it still doesn't work, then there's a problem elsewhere, maybe even the cable.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 07-24-2018 at 10:37 AM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  20. #645
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    boston massachusetts
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    715
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    1999 e39 528i and 540i/6
    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    First, install the 2.12.00 drivers included in my pack, and verify that your computer recognizes the cable in device manager.
    I'll update this post as I follow your steps;

    I ran "cdm v2.12.00 whql certified.exe" and everything went through smoothly; device manager made no mention of it (which technically wasn't a problem before i deleted the drivers in the first place). Devices and printers (within control panel) says it needs troubleshooting, that it's a driver issue, and could not resolve the issue.

    I then ran "standard_tools_setup_2.12.exe" and chose to not backup the previous files on the same screen it asked about shortcuts. that completed fine and i did not restart the computer.

    Then, i extracted "TIS Extra Files.zip" and ran TIS Win7x64.reg which completed no problem.

    I have no problems using com1, this laptop does not have that slot taken up; that said, latency and com# will not be an issue when i figure out the communication problem, assuming everything i typed above sounds correct.


    So.
    Now i completely removed the device via the devices and printers window, and let the drivers install automatically, and i will run the .exe again to overwrite anything in the way. (Which actually did not work; it said it has the same error, and it was not able to apply the fix, even without using the drivers in the .exe) going to try the other drivers labeled "cdm v2.10.00 whql certified.exe.
    Last edited by tortoracer; 07-24-2018 at 12:04 PM.

  21. #646
    Join Date
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    With the cable drivers installed and cable plugged in the usb port, you should be seeing it listed as USB Serial port, under ports (COM & LPT) in Device Manager*. I provided a direct link to device manager inside my pack for easy access.

    If it's not listed there, then you are looking at a cable or driver setup issue.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 07-24-2018 at 12:03 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  22. #647
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    boston massachusetts
    Posts
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    1999 e39 528i and 540i/6
    System thinks it's a driver issue, both the ones it auto installs, also the ones I installed via the pack. Right click > remove device, then plugging it back in does not fix. Any further steps I can take to start the cable from scratch?

  23. #648
    Join Date
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    36 Cylinders
    Can you get me the device id listed on the problematic component? Usually listed under the properties.
    Many times, the new ftdi drivers will delete the device id on counterfeit ft232rl chips.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  24. #649
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    Z3 Coupe 2.8 M52 AUT
    Been searching but no real answer found: working INPA and DIS-VM, through tinyADS gives me full access to all modules EXCEPT the cluster (kombi) of my 1998 Z3 M52 coupe. Why is that? Who knows?

  25. #650
    Join Date
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    My 328is kombi has a difficult time communicating through the L-line while on car. I pulled it out and connected directly to kombi on desk, everything worked.
    I have tested the car harness L line and found no voltage drops or issues, so I still don't know why. There was no significant resistance from 20-pin port to the kombi diag lines.
    But I managed to do what I needed, which was to code the coolant temperature gauge buffer a little tighter.


    If your coupe the dual vanos m52? Those kombis were K-line only, and do not require ADS.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 07-25-2018 at 10:29 AM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

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