The Z3 Diagnostics Thread: Instructions, Experiences, Discussions, Experimentation

[me77]

Bought these two cables (both from the same US seller, not affiliated with them) and they work perfectly:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-BMW-INP...e/292348590010
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Pin-To-O...W/271811775110

21.69$ total is a good price in my opinion, shipping was free and fast.

[GG///M3]

Ah didn't know you had joined us on the dark side. Welcome.

This makes it easy. Check to see if high-beam flash works. If it does not, look to fuse F23. If flash does work, then there is power to the combo switch. I would pop the E-flasher switch up and test the wiring there. Pin 2, gray wire, should show 12V when the left turn is on, pin 7, blue wire, when the right is on. All of the smarts of the system are built into the E-flasher switch itself. If you have the needed control signal coming in, but no response, the switch is bad.

Well I replaced every fuse associated with blinkers. Before doing this hazard lights worked all around.

Now front blinkers, and side blinker work (blinking rapidly) while the rears no longer do so.

I’ll pick up a set of rear bulbs, and see if that fixes it.

I’m wondering if there is some relay that’s on the fritz?


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[GG///M3]

Bulbs for rear blinkers replaced, and still no working rear blinkers . Hazard light switch, relay, and rear bulb sockets on the way.


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[Tallyho322]

I have used the INPA software to reset a nagging airbag light in the past. When I pulled her out of storage this weekend, my AB light was on.

I went through the same steps I did last year (unplug each of the small connectors under the drivers seat (no idea what they are for, but this worked last year)...then reset the AB error code using INPA.

This year, I got this error message when I tried to clear the error:
ECU_Error.PNG

Here are the errors showing under the AB section:
Airbag Errors.PNG

Any info or help about these errors would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

[328 Power 04]

I have used the INPA software to reset a nagging airbag light in the past. When I pulled her out of storage this weekend, my AB light was on.

I went through the same steps I did last year (unplug each of the small connectors under the drivers seat (no idea what they are for, but this worked last year)...then reset the AB error code using INPA.

This year, I got this error message when I tried to clear the error:
ECU_Error.PNG

Here are the errors showing under the AB section:
Airbag Errors.PNG

Any info or help about these errors would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

See https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...y-found-a-fix!


Constant 'irritation' from a loose or shorting connector will put the module into Internal Error unfortunately.

The good thing is that you no longer have to buy a new module when this happens. Send it to me. (keep in mind, your driver's seat issue can push the module back into internal fault after fixing)

[LannVouivre]

(keep in mind, your driver's seat issue can push the module back into internal fault after fixing)

And it can do this quite quickly, too!

[blabross123]

Hi all,

I'm trying to install INPA onto my laptop and I have tried following the instructions provided on the OP but I get stuck when trying to add "C:\EDIABAS\BIN" to the Environmental Path. This location does not exist on my laptop so it defaults to "C:".

Can anyone shed some light on this - I think I must be missing a key step prior to the Prerequisites.

Thanks all.

[Tallyho322]

See https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...y-found-a-fix!


Constant 'irritation' from a loose or shorting connector will put the module into Internal Error unfortunately.

The good thing is that you no longer have to buy a new module when this happens. Send it to me. (keep in mind, your driver's seat issue can push the module back into internal fault after fixing)

I assume I can’t clear the errors to trouble shoot those issues, until I reset the board, and not fixing the errors can re-lock the board....a catch-22.

Did you get a PM from me the other day? I thought I sent you a note, but don’t see it in my sent items.

Greg

[328 Power 04]

I received your message. Will reply soon. I had a busy week, including elbow surgery. I'm not ignoring

[gmushial]

In a DBW gas pedal, wondering the number of bits in the ADC... drove one this last weekend that felt like maybe 5 bit at most... found it almost impossible to go an exact speed: it was either 80 or 84, but nothing in between - very unanalogue... or is the ACD 8 or 10 bit, and the software is just chopping off lower bits?

[zellamay]

Hi all,

I'm trying to install INPA onto my laptop and I have tried following the instructions provided on the OP but I get stuck when trying to add "C:\EDIABAS\BIN" to the Environmental Path. This location does not exist on my laptop so it defaults to "C:".

Can anyone shed some light on this - I think I must be missing a key step prior to the Prerequisites.

Thanks all.

I just installed INPA on my laptop, and I'm no computer expert. All I can offer is that, without knowing what had gone wrong, I simply started over again, was maybe more meticulous, and it worked.

[328 Power 04]

I just need to remove that bit about Environmental Variables and paths. I have found that the installer adds that path entry itself now.

It's probably only necessary for Windows XP, maybe not even then.

[gmushial]

I just need to remove that bit about Environmental Variables and paths. I have found that the installer adds that path entry itself now.

It's probably only necessary for Windows XP, maybe not even then.

When you come up for air: you might take a look at my post above - if anyone can answer it: that you be you. Many thanks.

[rf900rkw]

The simple answer is something is wrong with that particular car.

[gmushial]

The simple answer is something is wrong with that particular car.

Randy - if that's directed at me... so such is not by design then? Then I'm assuming the throttle position sensor has gone bad, is going bad... I do feel a "crunchiness" in the pedal movement... are they rebuildable, or does one simply replace the whole unit?

[rf900rkw]

It depends on if it's a M54 or a M52TU. M54 you check the linkage under the dash, and replace the throttle pot if required. On the M52TU you check the cable for binding, then replace the entire throttle assembly if it is internal. These systems are quite sensitive to electrical glitches, coding at the slightlest sign of trouble, so I would expect your problem to be in the linkage/cable.

[gmushial]

It depends on if it's a M54 or a M52TU. M54 you check the linkage under the dash, and replace the throttle pot if required. On the M52TU you check the cable for binding, then replace the entire throttle assembly if it is internal. These systems are quite sensitive to electrical glitches, coding at the slightlest sign of trouble, so I would expect your problem to be in the linkage/cable.

Many thanks... this is M54... but on a 530i (2002), so there is no cable: purely DBW [just ask here because this is a) my old home, and b) where the smarts are... ] ... this is the one that I was asking about w/re the "M sport suspension"... which turns out to be impressive: can't toss it like the Z, but in steady state corners is very very glued down [even more so than the Z]. ... but sounds then like: replace the pedal assembly, as in there shouldn't be the pixelated feel to the pedal.

As always: many thanks... good people here; lots of smarts :-)

[BimmerBreaker]

Crunchiness in the pedal is likely a hardware problem - maybe a bushing knocked out of location and binding or a walnut shell getting pulverized under the pedal... but most likely is what Randy said, the linkage somewhere. Particularly on the M52 I would be checking the cables. On one of my cars my cruise control cable was binding, presented as a roughness in part of the pedal travel and occasional revving when off-throttle (cable was binding and preventing throttle plate from closing)

I've had 3 pedals fail on me, and 4 TPS sensors fail on me in my various cars. Never felt a "crunch" or anything out of the ordinary. When the sensors fail, they just fail, there aren't bearings or anything in them that start to go out. It's an electrical failure, not mechanical. If you don't have a CEL and EML I would have not reason to think the TPS or pedal is bad. Check the physical "hard" stuff... have someone go through the throttle travel where its crunchy (should be fine with engine off) while you poke around following the cable seeing whats going on. Not to say its not possible, just would be out of the norm to fail in way that the sensor becomes crunchy...

[328 Power 04]

Many thanks... this is M54... but on a 530i (2002), so there is no cable: purely DBW [just ask here because this is a) my old home, and b) where the smarts are... ] ... this is the one that I was asking about w/re the "M sport suspension"... which turns out to be impressive: can't toss it like the Z, but in steady state corners is very very glued down [even more so than the Z]. ... but sounds then like: replace the pedal assembly, as in there shouldn't be the pixelated feel to the pedal.

As always: many thanks... good people here; lots of smarts :-)

A lot of the m54 throttle behavior is programmed to be that way. Actually so is the M52tu behavior. That is why I learned how to tune both, because some of that programming is a bit interfering with driving dynamics. I can make the M52tu and M54 throttle behavior brutally direct.

If there was a fault, it would let you know. It's very closely monitored.

The only other thing I can think of is that the throttle plate may need a little cleaning. The M52tu throttle was very susceptible to snagging.

INPAs logging speed isn't built for speed, but rather quantity.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh the pedal itself feels weird? Then it's the pedal.
There's no feedback mechanism to the feel of the pedal.

[gmushial]

A lot of the m54 throttle behavior is programmed to be that way. Actually so is the M52tu behavior. That is why I learned how to tune both, because some of that programming is a bit interfering with driving dynamics. I can make the M52tu and M54 throttle behavior brutally direct.

If there was a fault, it would let you know. It's very closely monitored.

The only other thing I can think of is that the throttle plate may need a little cleaning. The M52tu throttle was very susceptible to snagging.

INPAs logging speed isn't built for speed, but rather quantity.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh the pedal itself feels weird? Then it's the pedal.
There's no feedback mechanism to the feel of the pedal.

I did Portland to Redding in under 6 hrs on Saturday evening, and found the unanalogue behavior annoying... but I also felt what I'd call crunchiness in the pedal... and since on the e39 there is zero cable, ie, purely electronic: I'm going to see if I can remove that, or simply replace the mechanism... then I may hit you up for a more linear feel to it... but let me get mechanical aspects sorted out first... and it sounds like from your comments: that the ADC is at least 8 bit, so there should be zero "pixilation" effect - right now it feels like it's 5 or 6 bit, and the steps between the values are noticeable and too large. Many thanks. ... and get the elbow healed up :-)

[gmushial]

Crunchiness in the pedal is likely a hardware problem - maybe a bushing knocked out of location and binding or a walnut shell getting pulverized under the pedal... but most likely is what Randy said, the linkage somewhere. Particularly on the M52 I would be checking the cables. On one of my cars my cruise control cable was binding, presented as a roughness in part of the pedal travel and occasional revving when off-throttle (cable was binding and preventing throttle plate from closing)

I've had 3 pedals fail on me, and 4 TPS sensors fail on me in my various cars. Never felt a "crunch" or anything out of the ordinary. When the sensors fail, they just fail, there aren't bearings or anything in them that start to go out. It's an electrical failure, not mechanical. If you don't have a CEL and EML I would have not reason to think the TPS or pedal is bad. Check the physical "hard" stuff... have someone go through the throttle travel where its crunchy (should be fine with engine off) while you poke around following the cable seeing whats going on. Not to say its not possible, just would be out of the norm to fail in way that the sensor becomes crunchy...

I would just add the comment: that how a sensor fails, depends on how it is intended to operate... a Hall sensor: yes, probably will just die. Even a theroswitch - although the resistance across the closed switch was probably getting larger over time, there would be some point when the resistance crossed some value, so that the logic it drove would nolonger see it as a closed switch, and would appear to "just die."... But like on the accelerator pedal assembly [where this is no connection to the world beyond an single cable], where you have a plunger driving a gear driven potentiometer - the gear vs plunger could get crud in their interface, causing "crunchiness"; one could also have the resistor element of the pot start to wear through, giving a non-linear both feel and or output. In this case I suspecting the plunger/gear is the source of the felt crunchiness... but since it's a sealed unit, I'm guessing that it'll be a replacement.. but bottom line: how they appear fail, has a lot to do with how they were designed to work.

[BimmerBreaker]

On all the failures I experienced, the first symptom was intermittent "bogging" while accelerating. Then it would be a hard "cutoff" when accelerating, like you suddenly went off-throttle (but you didn't). Then the CEL's and EML's started coming... one after another... they just didn't stop. It was relentless... I'd buy a new sensor, no EML for a day or two. Then BOOM - right in your face - EML and dead throttle. All around me, everywhere I looked - EML. I'd be riding my bike and suddenly see it - an EML light...

sorry, ignore my EML-induced PTSD...

It's certainly possible some crud got into the pedal assembly and messed some stuff up. I'd take it off and inspect before replacing though, as it could be a simple fix (could just be a tortilla chip under the plunger... who knows). The pedal on my car is a different design than the M54 you are talking about. The one in my car was basically an afterthought - a "how do we make DBW from a car designed for cable throttles" and the result is a motor with an arm, instead of pulling a cable that goes to the engine, the pedal pulls linkage that pulls the motor arm down. I believe the M54 pedal assemblies are self-contained in the pedal, like the E46 M3.

[Ysi]

Hi,
Recently, I check which version of software I have installed and used.
I found out that I have INPA 5.0.0 and EDIABAS 4.02

Currently available INPA 5.0.6 and EDIABAS 7.3.0

How to properly update these 2 program ?

Do I need to uninstall whole package or just run installation on top existing?

But also will deleted NCSExpert, Win KFP and Tool32 because all placed under one program in Windows as "BMW standard Tools, version 2.12.0"
I have installed it on laptop with Windows 7 operating system.

[Zoupe6]

Will INPA code a used ASC/ABS module for my 99 coupe? I found one cheap, and if it doesn't work I'll just go the module master route. I thought I has the right cables, but apparently the VF engineering port connector with their kit is proprietary. New port connector will be here this Saturday.

[rf900rkw]

INPA directly? No. But other tools in the suite will. Tool32 and NCSExpert.