The Z3 Diagnostics Thread: Instructions, Experiences, Discussions, Experimentation

[Laminar]

Did you ever code out your auto transmission from your cluster to get rid of lights? (Saw blog video)

I checked the original cluster and found that there just wasn't a bulb installed in its auto transmission socket, so I pulled the bulb from this cluster and all is well.

[328 Power 04]

I checked the original cluster and found that there just wasn't a bulb installed in its auto transmission socket, so I pulled the bulb from this cluster and all is well.

The pickiness in me recommends to code it to manual, to avoid instrument cluster error reporting, but it isn't that important. You can try your hand at NCSExpert with ADS.

[Laminar]

The pickiness in me recommends to code it to manual, to avoid instrument cluster error reporting, but it isn't that important. You can try your hand at NCSExpert with ADS.

Does this also offer the ability to adjust the speedo calibration? My one complaint is that the speedo reads ~5mph high at highway speeds. I'd rather it be accurate than to acclimate myself to seeing 80mph because I know it's only 75.

[magnetchief]

Wow, what a lot of information to absorb.
Thanks for putting this together.
I have the cables required and an old laptop.
I guess this weekend I will be playing with the software trying to get it to communicate with my M Roadster.
I have an airbag light on that I would like to clear.

[328 Power 04]

Does this also offer the ability to adjust the speedo calibration? My one complaint is that the speedo reads ~5mph high at highway speeds. I'd rather it be accurate than to acclimate myself to seeing 80mph because I know it's only 75.

Yes, that would be in the cluster. The reported speed is about 4mph higher every time. I will look around to see if anyone has figured out how to do it on the e36 clusters, on others, they have.

NCSExpert basically reads the EEPROM data and interprets it, but I think you can get the actual hex code from it as well.

Also, there is a way to reduce the dumb coolant gauge buffer area, and actually get the needle to move up and down as it gets cooler and warmer.

- - - Updated - - -

Wow, what a lot of information to absorb.
Thanks for putting this together.
I have the cables required and an old laptop.
I guess this weekend I will be playing with the software trying to get it to communicate with my M Roadster.
I have an airbag light on that I would like to clear.

You are welcome! Good luck and keep us updated. The install only takes about 10 mins (once you are used to it), and then you have to make sure it's configured properly. Then you are good to go.



***At the end of the Step 3 installation, it will be defaulted to COM1 (no matter what you chose before, it's how it is), so you may have to configure the C:\EDIABAS\BIN\OBD.ini file and/or the USB cable's COM port in Device Manager to match.***

(It seems a common place to stumble on, so I will keep it in mind to update instructions)

[gmushial]

Does this also offer the ability to adjust the speedo calibration? My one complaint is that the speedo reads ~5mph high at highway speeds. I'd rather it be accurate than to acclimate myself to seeing 80mph because I know it's only 75.

But hasn't this been the industry norm for some decade or more, ie, there is always a +/- error and not wanting customers to get surprised by the local friendly highway patrol... they intentionally set the mean to be 5-7% low (or, to overread by 5-7%)? ... I think all my cars do that. ??

[328 Power 04]

In Germany it was... But it's manufacturer dependent; my Jetta only adds 2mph.

Too bad now I mentally compensate my speed, so if I want to go 10 over, I will go ~14 over.

[Laminar]

Yes, that would be in the cluster. The reported speed is about 4mph higher every time. I will look around to see if anyone has figured out how to do it on the e36 clusters, on others, they have.

Yeah, I found info for the E39 but not my car.

Also, there is a way to reduce the dumb coolant gauge buffer area, and actually get the needle to move up and down as it gets cooler and warmer.

My coolant gauge is now a wideband gauge!

- - - Updated - - -

But hasn't this been the industry norm for some decade or more, ie, there is always a +/- error and not wanting customers to get surprised by the local friendly highway patrol... they intentionally set the mean to be 5-7% low (or, to overread by 5-7%)? ... I think all my cars do that. ??

It's a European thing and dates back to the era of mechanical cable-driven speedometers.

http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-conte...X%3A31975L0443

4.4. The speed indicated must never be less than the true speed. At the speeds specified for the test in 4.3.5 above and between these speeds, there shall be the following relationship between the speed indicated on the dial of the speedometer

Everything I've driven lately from the US and Japan is spot on compared to my GPS.

[magnetchief]

Introduction:

1. a. Drivers for the cable (do not use the disc included with cable): http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm (Only use version 2.10.00 at the bottom)

Am I missing something here? Don't see a version 2.10.00 I see a version 2.08.24

Am I looking at the wrong page?

[BladeRunner919]

Am I missing something here? Don't see a version 2.10.00 I see a version 2.08.24

Am I looking at the wrong page?

That post was a year ago, so it's possible 2.10.00 was the current version then, and has now been superseded?

[magnetchief]

Will have to experiment tonight.

[328 Power 04]

Yes, they did update that page, but this had to have been very recently. Looks like they removed that one.

Be careful with running newest drivers from them with the Chinese cables, as in the past FTDI has been known to purposely disable the clone FTDI chips through newer drivers. No sure if they're up to it again, but it made a huge deal then. The backlash was huge, so they reverted back to other driver versions.


I'll upload version 2.10.00 up on the Google drive.

[magnetchief]

Ah I understand now.
Well except the google drive bit.
Does that mean I can get the drivers from you?

[328 Power 04]

Ah I understand now.
Well except the google drive bit.
Does that mean I can get the drivers from you?

Yes, the website linked, with all the programs, is my own personal "Google Drive", basically online storage space.

I will put the driver installer there, so then you can get it there.

[magnetchief]

Many thanks.

[magnetchief]

Many thanks for putting this all together.
As predicted within 10 mins I had connected to my roadster and cleared the airbag fault lights.
I'm almost impressed with myself

[nickmerrone]

I am having some issues trying to clear the P0600 code after a manual swap. From what i read on the DIY I just clear adaptation values and it should be gone? I do that and it comes right back. What is the correct way to do this? 98 E36 M44.

[328 Power 04]

You probably need to flash the Engine control unit with the manual software, for definitive solving of the problem.

Did you code everything else (ABS, Cluster, etc) to manual with NCSExpert?

I have never done any 318i auto to manual, but I have done a bunch of E36, and E46. Each car will have its own method, but you are guaranteed to have it working with a flash. I am not even sure if the M44's ecu is flashable with WinKFP. If it is, then it can be done.
You can also buy a used 318 manual transmission engine control unit, and align ews with INPA.

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The manual flash in the e36 daten files for M5.2 ECU, USA version, manual transmission is ZB number 1430342 (the number you use in WinKFP)


Links to B1430269.0DA flash file.
Info:
alle E36 M44B19 US-TLEV OBD2 RL
Getriebe B/M5
2.Serienaenderung 5/97



You have to put programming voltage for flashing the M5.2 ecu, either at the 20-pin port (Usually bridging pin 14&18 - Programming voltage; and bridge 2&17 to forward the K-line connection via OBD inside).

Or at bench flash

3885-bmw-dme5_2.jpg

For writing.


You must have over 13.5V for writing!

[flyfishvt]

Doing a auto/manual swap in a 318 is no different than any other e36. There are 2 warning lights involved. The tranny warning light and the CEL. To get rid of the CEL you clear the codes then clear adaptations then pull the chip out of the tyranny computer. Do not remove the computer. Leave it in the car. The ABS and traction control are wired through it. Second is the tranny warning light. There are 3 ways to eliminate it. On 92-95 cars you pull the bulb and you're done. On 96+ you can replace the auto DME with a DME from a 5 speed. Align the ews and you're done. The light should go out. If you can't find a 5 speed DME you can recode your existing DME to a 5 speed unit. This involves several steps that I outlined in detail in the e36 auto/manual thread. You'll have to go through that thread and find it. It should be somewhere near the middle. I used a combination of DIS and NCS and a ADS interface on the 20 pin diag port in the engine bay. What you will end up doing is changing the GM code in the DME so it converts it to a 5 speed DME and it stops looking for the auto tranny. That thread is long but all the info is in there.

[328 Power 04]

It *seems* the flash is different in the auto and manual ecus (got me researching since your call-out ) for M5.2. The WinKFP daten descriptions state which one is meant for auto and which for manual. They are different, and can be flashed to either or.
I was able to code the Auto MS41 we talked about earlier to manual using Tool32, but shadow code still remained for EGS timeout, even though CEL finally went off. A flash with the manual fullflash (or conversion with WinKFP with correct ZB) can fix that, for those picky ones.

I am going to be researching where the flip switch for auto/manual is in the flash for MS41, as one does exist. It is somewhere around address 5CB0 to 5D80 in MS41 fullflash, among the ISN and VIN. Plan is to get it defined in RomRaider.

[nickmerrone]

Doing a auto/manual swap in a 318 is no different than any other e36. There are 2 warning lights involved. The tranny warning light and the CEL. To get rid of the CEL you clear the codes then clear adaptations then pull the chip out of the tyranny computer. Do not remove the computer. Leave it in the car. The ABS and traction control are wired through it. Second is the tranny warning light. There are 3 ways to eliminate it. On 92-95 cars you pull the bulb and you're done. On 96+ you can replace the auto DME with a DME from a 5 speed. Align the ews and you're done. The light should go out. If you can't find a 5 speed DME you can recode your existing DME to a 5 speed unit. This involves several steps that I outlined in detail in the e36 auto/manual thread. You'll have to go through that thread and find it. It should be somewhere near the middle. I used a combination of DIS and NCS and a ADS interface on the 20 pin diag port in the engine bay. What you will end up doing is changing the GM code in the DME so it converts it to a 5 speed DME and it stops looking for the auto tranny. That thread is long but all the info is in there.

It *seems* the flash is different in the auto and manual ecus (got me researching since your call-out ) for M5.2. The WinKFP daten descriptions state which one is meant for auto and which for manual. They are different, and can be flashed to either or.
I was able to code the Auto MS41 we talked about earlier to manual using Tool32, but shadow code still remained for EGS timeout, even though CEL finally went off. A flash with the manual fullflash (or conversion with WinKFP with correct ZB) can fix that, for those picky ones.

I am going to be researching where the flip switch for auto/manual is in the flash for MS41, as one does exist. It is somewhere around address 5CB0 to 5D80 in MS41 fullflash, among the ISN and VIN. Plan is to get it defined in RomRaider.

I appreciate all the help guys. However All of this is Foreign to me I Barely know how to use INPA. I literally would need to be spoon fed step by step how to do this. Unless I can just pay someone and ship the ecu out. I am just trying to get my girlfriends car to pass emissions(only code holding me up as i have solved all the other issues using INPA I have not coded any other modules to manual yet.

Would aligning the EWS be the easiest?

FWIW I have no problem pulling the tranny light bulb(the gear), as that is no big deal. Just want to get the CEL off. Also the car has a nasty rev hang.

- - - Updated - - -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-318t...dW6OoM&vxp=mtr

I have a feeling I should buy this and then figure out how to align the EWS.

[328 Power 04]

I appreciate all the help guys. However All of this is Foreign to me I Barely know how to use INPA. I literally would need to be spoon fed step by step how to do this. Unless I can just pay someone and ship the ecu out. I am just trying to get my girlfriends car to pass emissions(only code holding me up as i have solved all the other issues using INPA I have not coded any other modules to manual yet.

Would aligning the EWS be the easiest?

FWIW I have no problem pulling the tranny light bulb(the gear), as that is no big deal. Just want to get the CEL off. Also the car has a nasty rev hang.

- - - Updated - - -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-318t...dW6OoM&vxp=mtr

I have a feeling I should buy this and then figure out how to align the EWS.

Coding the car with NCSExpert can be done via remote desktop by someone (Using teamviewer and internet connection),



or replaced with one from a manual 96+ M44 1.9 (and this is where EWS align is used)


The linked one is perfect for you.

- - - Updated - - -

www.ebay.com/itm/111790781636 This one is from a manual 318 as well 03/1997

[nickmerrone]

Coding the car with NCSExpert can be done via remote desktop by someone (Using teamviewer and internet connection),



or replaced with one from a manual 96+ M44 1.9 (and this is where EWS align is used)


The linked one is perfect for you.

- - - Updated - - -

www.ebay.com/itm/111790781636 This one is from a manual 318 as well 03/1997

Looks like ill go with the manual ECU(thanks for linking me to another one, I actually think that build date is the same as her car) and the EWS aligning. The IBM thinkpad that i use for INPA I cannot get to connect to the internet(Think theres an issue with the wireless card). I found the EWS aligning app from GBpeterson? Was going to give that a shot i suppose. But If it can be done in INPA I will research how to.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ment-with-INPA

Just found this one, boy you and him are really active in the INPA/Manual swap threads..haha

[328 Power 04]

Looks like ill go with the manual ECU(thanks for linking me to another one, I actually think that build date is the same as her car) and the EWS aligning. The IBM thinkpad that i use for INPA I cannot get to connect to the internet(Think theres an issue with the wireless card). I found the EWS aligning app from GBpeterson? Was going to give that a shot i suppose. But If it can be done in INPA I will research how to.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ment-with-INPA

Just found this one, boy you and him are really active in the INPA/Manual swap threads..haha

GBpeterson's application will probably work (you must use 20-pin connection when doing it).


And yes flyfishvt is well versed in this. Just a couple of guys helping out others that are helping out their girlfriend . I was doing that for my girlfriend too.. I married her since... and now I get to drive her Z3s.

[nickmerrone]

GBpeterson's application will probably work (you must use 20-pin connection when doing it).


And yes flyfishvt is well versed in this. Just a couple of guys helping out others that are helping out their girlfriend . I was doing that for my girlfriend too.. I married her since... and now I get to drive her Z3s.

Haha, I will get back to you once i can see what is up with the laptop's internet connection. I am thinking the new ecu would probably be best, but like you said its worth giving it a shot. I found flyfishvt's God damnit now i am typing like this cause i copy pasted his name..but i found his write up on how to align the EWS seems pretty simple worst comes to worst.