Rear Sub Frame Bushing Removal (RSFB) Tool

[ZGator]

Well the time has come - at 166k I am going to replace the RSFBs and the RTABs - I got this nice tool for RTABs from BimmerBums:



Notice the nice threaded rod, nuts, washer, cover plate of tube - all fit nicely inside my new bushings - would I be out of line using this rod and hardware to remove the RSFB - it's the right length - I have the other parts of the RSFB removal tool - a cap and big pipe to enclose the bushing - but don't have the threaded rod or washers - thus why I am tempted to use this. Just wondering if it is up to the task - sorry no other specs on rod except pic.

[bluptgm3]

To reduce stress on the threads I would be tempted to use coupling nut.



And a thrust bearing is helpful also.



And P-80 to lubricate the rubber during installation.

[ZGator]

Thank you - would that be used in place of the nut? more threads captured - makes sense - heard that recommendation in the past - and of course I will lube the threads.

[Hoyt Clagwell]

I can't remember exactly how I got my RSBs out but as I recall, some heat from a heat gun was a big help. Some people use a torch but I didn't want to risk messing with the temper or, even more likely, burning off the factory coating. My heat gun is adjustable so I probably had it set around 250F judging by experience. There's no actual temp readings on the dial.

[ZGator]

Yes agree, was also going to use heat gun during the process. I have also decided that using the aluminum end caps might not be a good idea - I imagine I could crack them - so will get some bigger washers and the coupling nut.

[CoconutPete]

Very fancy. I yanked mine out w/ my bench vise, some threaded rods, an a-frame ladder and a bunch of scrap steel.

[ZGator]

Very fancy. I yanked mine out w/ my bench vise, some threaded rods, an a-frame ladder and a bunch of scrap steel.

while the other stuff makes sense - the a-frame ladder staggers the imagination.

I must admit at one time, quite long ago when pondering the job, I considered the even more hillbilly method of burning them out.

[CoconutPete]

Yeah ... it was later in the evening, I didn't think I'd get this far on day 1 ... may have had an IPA or two.
My wife and kids were both asleep and the ladder ladder was the best "buddy" I could come up with at the time.

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[ZGator]

Many thanks bluptgun! I just ordered all the extra hardware and lube on amazon - this is going to be a very dam/fancy RSFB/RTAB tool, only around $100 and should make quick work of it I figure.

- - - Updated - - -

Yeah ... it was later in the evening, I didn't think I'd get this far on day 1 ... may have had an IPA or two.
My wife and kids were both asleep and the ladder ladder was the best "buddy" I could come up with at the time.

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Well that explains the ladder - quite creative - I have been guilty of worse! and damn that is a LONG threaded rod - I guess you wanted to spare losing the length. I am a frugal Yankee so I fully approve.

[Hoyt Clagwell]

I made a makeshift tool similar in concept to the one from bimmerbum using an old hole saw "blade" of the appropriate diameter, a length of threaded rod, some nuts and washers. That was for the RTABs but I may have used the same thing for the RSFBs. Did I seek the help of a Pilsener, perhaps.

[zellamay]

To answer your original question: the threaded rod and nuts you have can work. I made the tool per this thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...r-cheap!/page6 ..... I used SS thd rod (or was it B7? I don't remember for sure), but I don't think it was necessary. First, I tightend the puller pretty tight, then I used a heat gun until it started to move. Then I just kept some heat on it while tightening the tool more. Didn't take much pressure at all. If it starts to take much pressure, just put a bit more heat on it.

[Hoyt Clagwell]

First, I tightend the puller pretty tight, then I used a heat gun until it started to move. Then I just kept some heat on it while tightening the tool more. Didn't take much pressure at all. If it starts to take much pressure, just put a bit more heat on it.

It's all coming back to me now. That's what I did using my home made puller. As I recall, the first bit of movement took a while as I was heating the subframe in a cold garage. Once it started moving, it came out fairly easily.

[IndianaRoadster]

Now this is bringing back memories, it's been five years since I did mine. The RTAB's were easier than the RSFB's, if I recall correctly, I drilled some holes in the old rubber bushings to relieve some of the pressure against the sides, while trying to get them out. I did take advantage of having the Subframe out and welded the camber/toe alignment kit in. It was a job for sure.
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[BUCK57]

Brings back memories of this task. This is for the most part is a signal use tool for Z3 owners (it's going to sit in your garage forever like mine or offer here). When I did mine, I bought the components to make my crude tool (cheap then). The key is heat. A heat gun is insufficient, you need flame like a propane torch or better. Once heated to temp it'll come out like butter. You don't need to FRY it!. If you're fighting it, it's not hot enough was my experience. A good clean up, painting and back together. This job seems big, yeah, a lot of parts but to me it was a rather simple goal comprised of many tasks of connecting the dots. The key is having the room to do it over your time frame. Mine, a weekend turned into months to complete due to life

[ZGator]

Brings back memories of this task. This is for the most part is a signal use tool for Z3 owners (it's going to sit in your garage forever like mine or offer here). When I did mine, I bought the components to make my crude tool (cheap then). The key is heat. A heat gun is insufficient, you need flame like a propane torch or better. Once heated to temp it'll come out like butter. You don't need to FRY it!. If you're fighting it, it's not hot enough was my experience. A good clean up, painting and back together. This job seems big, yeah, a lot of parts but to me it was a rather simple goal comprised of many tasks of connecting the dots. The key is having the room to do it over your time frame. Mine, a weekend turned into months to complete due to life

My RSFBs were bought years and miles ago and I am at 166k miles now - so got you beat on procrastination. I was waiting for my clutch to go out I guess - but that's still working fine. Also doing the Center support bearing++, even though the car runs fine - this goes a bit against the if it isn't broke - but I guess I am up for the project now - and consider this 'fun'- I have all the time I need and other car(s) so that helps make it fun not being under the gun.

[ZGator]

To answer your original question: the threaded rod and nuts you have can work. I made the tool per this thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...r-cheap!/page6 ..... I used SS thd rod (or was it B7? I don't remember for sure), but I don't think it was necessary. First, I tightend the puller pretty tight, then I used a heat gun until it started to move. Then I just kept some heat on it while tightening the tool more. Didn't take much pressure at all. If it starts to take much pressure, just put a bit more heat on it.

yep thanks - I think I went out and bought the cap and pipe at the time of your post or others like it- I am going to do exactly this - heat gun on high is pretty hot - and with the press bearings and coupler nuts - I think it will work fine. Will post pics - but be aware I am working on this very slowly getting all parts and tools ready - will be removing the exhaust - driveshaft - and rear sub frame. About only thing I am worried about now is pressing in my new Differential bushing.

[zellamay]

Brings back memories of this task. ..... A heat gun is insufficient, you need flame like a propane torch or better. .....

Just to clarify for future readers. You must have had a pretty weak heat gun. Several have used heat guns successfully. Once the bushing started to give, I had to use mine intermittently becasue the bushing area would get too hot. The heat gun I bought was probably around $30.

[Hoyt Clagwell]

Just to clarify for future readers. You must have had a pretty weak heat gun. Several have used heat guns successfully. Once the bushing started to give, I had to use mine intermittently because the bushing area would get too hot.

Same. My heat gun can get very hot.(Makita) I had it set somewhere between 1/3 an 1/2 of full heat. I did have to have a little bit of patience to get the entire bushing area heated up but with tension on the extractor tool, the bushing started to move while I was applying heat. There was no damage to the black, factory coating that is still intact on my car.

[sleeperz]

I wish I had pics. Did mine years ago. Put in one of the original Ireland Engineering E30 camber/toe kits too. I have an old 20-ton press and I rigged it with some junk metal bearing shells as drift spacers and pressed the subframe bushings out. I put Ireland green urethane back in. Had to trim the bushing edges on each side to be able to get to the toe adjustment bolts.

Believe it or not, I did not replace my trailing arm bushings at the time because they were still good. I think I did this back in 2006? When I do some other work, some day, I plan to replace those while the car is apart.

[IndianaRoadster]

I wish I had pics. Did mine years ago. Put in one of the original Ireland Engineering E30 camber/toe kits too. I have an old 20-ton press and I rigged it with some junk metal bearing shells as drift spacers and pressed the subframe bushings out. I put Ireland green urethane back in. Had to trim the bushing edges on each side to be able to get to the toe adjustment bolts.

Believe it or not, I did not replace my trailing arm bushings at the time because they were still good. I think I did this back in 2006? When I do some other work, some day, I plan to replace those while the car is apart.

I know just what you're talking about, I had to trim mine also. That's the only way to get a wrench on the RTAB bolt head.
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[spfd72]

Showing off your pretty differential again !

[Shadowjack1020]

A 1500 watt heat gun worked pretty well when I did mine.

[IndianaRoadster]

Showing off your pretty differential again !

Hey that represents a lot of retirement hours of labor! When I first started five years ago, I had never worked on a European car ever. I came from the 60's-70's muscle car era. As I was reading up and trying to understand everything, I found when someone posted a lot of pics, it really helped me understand better. So I try to help others that are starting out or in the future, have a good understanding by seeing what we are talking about.

[sleeperz]

Showing off your pretty differential again !

I think I have heard that pick-up line at the local bar?

[Tgmaine]

Do you have a link to the tool where it can be purchased?