How to time a 540tu engine

[JimLev]

Excellent video Jim.

How different is the procedure for non TU?

Thanks GT, procedure is about the same except you don't have a vanos to adjust. Bentleys has a good procedure for non tu engines. You still need the timing kit but don't need to use all the parts in it.

[geargrinder]

Sweet! I'd start looking for nice 540's local to me with broken timing guides, but I'm pretty sure someone I know would beat me to em!

Only prob Ary is the bad-rail cars I have seen are typically also just generally thrashed to crap and worn out and impending parts car status. I have passed on a couple crappy worn out 540's cuz I couldn't even find enough decent parts to pull off them... thrashed interiors, thrashed under-bits, worn out everything in engine bay, etc.

Maybe thats different in Kaliforny.

[BMW540san]

I'm not going to add any praises as anything done by Jim speaks for itself. I will say that average You Tube viewer will be awed with all the Nitro technology and beautiful blue bits of the engine. We've all seen it many times now but it doesn't get boring by any means.

[Boomer Depp]

Nicely done Jim! Looking forward to more. I was tempted the first time I uploaded a video, to let Youtube stabilize it, but don't anymore.

[NLu]

Jim, great video, thank you for making that.

I just replaced my timing chain/guides, etc... and will be timing my engine this weekend.
Between your video and instructions from Beisan and GAS, I now have a very good mental image of the process.

One question though...

When it comes to torquing the crank hub bolt (Jesus bolt), what is the correct process?
TIS torque spec calls for: 100Nm, 60deg, 60deg, 30deg

I'm assuming this means to hit 100Nm, then turn the bolt another 150 degrees in three steps.
Is that correct?

[JimLev]

Yes, that's what the TIS is referring too.
With the limited space to torque that sucker there isn't many other way to do it.

[Spirit Force]

Great video Jim! You make it look so easy.. Maybe a vanos rebuild video next?

[Adrenalin540]

Thanks ...Very Helpful and well done...I am sure this is gonna help many guys in the future...

[JimLev]

Great video Jim! You make it look so easy.. Maybe a vanos rebuild video next?

I did 4 vanos rebuilds 2 months ago, didn't think about doing a video when I did them.
Might be doing another set soon so I can do it then.

[Spirit Force]

I did 4 vanos rebuilds 2 months ago, didn't think about doing a video when I did them.
Might be doing another set soon so I can do it then.

That would be great. I'm thinking about doing a vanos rebuild myself.

[1gr8e39]

The quality of a good DIY video is based on how difficult of a job can be done by any average joe. This video is done so right that anybody that knows their way around a tool box could perform a very difficult job that requires a lot of precision and accuracy. Great video, great detail. I would only feel comfortable timing an M62tub44 with this video available, even my Bentley Manuals Dont show how to do it step by step. Thanks Jim. Might have to refer to this when I change my tensioners out.

[vinyldude]

One related problem is that most timing toolsets do not have the holder for keeping the cam blocks level on the heads. It looks easy on the video, since Jim had crafted the holder himself. The reason I had to do this multiple times was because it is very easy to counter-hold the cams either too hard or too lightly, and the cam blocks will allow small misadjustments by becoming lifted up ever so slightly.

Also it might be advisable not to use the early GAS timing toolset where the cam blocks are interchangable between the heads.

[MrTeeThyme]

Thanks Jim. These videos scared my 540 bogeyman away. I will no longer let the timing guide issue keep me from venturing into the HO8.

[rf900rkw]

The cam timing only affects how well the engine. runs. The trigger wheel timing controls the codes. You can get one right and blow the other.

[vinyldude]

The cam timing only affects how well the engine. runs. The trigger wheel timing controls the codes. You can get one right and blow the other.

Absolutely so. In other words, having no codes is not a guarantee that the engine is correctly timed.

One additional thing to keep in mind is, part of setting the trigger wheel timing correctly is to ensure that the intake cams are in the fully retarded position when the cam bolts are tightened. This sets the reference position when the trigger wheel tools are being used. If the vanos is not fully retarded, no matter how accurately the trigger wheels are set, you can still get codes.

[hyjaxe]

One related problem is that most timing toolsets do not have the holder for keeping the cam blocks level on the heads. It looks easy on the video, since Jim had crafted the holder himself. The reason I had to do this multiple times was because it is very easy to counter-hold the cams either too hard or too lightly, and the cam blocks will allow small misadjustments by becoming lifted up ever so slightly.

Also it might be advisable not to use the early GAS timing toolset where the cam blocks are interchangable between the heads.

Agreed, even with trying to torque it in small passes will still make the blocks slip ever so slightly. This was the biggest problem for me, and ended up just having an extra person hold the blocks+counter holding the cam with the wrench. Excellent tool you have there to keep it stable. Great video!

[CFKull]

I just did the chain guides and vanos rebuilds on an M62TU in a 2004 Range Rover. Watched what seems like hours of You-tube videos before starting, but I missed yours somehow. Wish I had seen them, great job. Beisan write-up on the vanos is quite complete (couple of variations in the disassembly/assembly due to the Rover installation) and easy to follow. A video would be great though. Everything is back together. Engine starts and runs quiet now (the all plastic chain guide had completely disappeared). Don't have that 3 second rattle on startup from the vanos. Now, however, I have codes P0011 and P0021 which are cams over advanced.

I had lots of problems keeping the cam lock blocks in place. The spark plug mount holder would have been a big help. If I had seen your video before starting the project I probably would have done the double check on the timing wheels. I am afraid that might be my problem and I have to take it all back apart to check.

I have a question. You stated "Double checking the position and getting the top surface of the upper covers even with the top of the head is what counts."
I was following everything you did and said until the upper covers comment. Can you elaborate on that?

[JimLev]

The cam sensors mount in the covers so if the covers aren't in the correct position you could get a code.
More later.

Although the upper timing covers being off slightly shouldn't give you a code if everything else is OK.
You need to be way off to get codes for both sides, did you keep tension on the pass side guide while you were putting that upper cover on?
You said you had trouble keeping the cam lock blocks in place, they must be kept from moving. Pretty sure I still have a set of them left.
And the trigger wheels have to be set correctly and checked to verify they still are correct after you manually rotate the crank, then pin it, retard the cams and lock them in place. If your cam to crank static timing is correct the trigger wheels should align with the fixture.
You could be a few deg off in a couple of places which will throw the trigger wheels too far off.

[Relentlesshound]

I just watched both of the videos now how do I solve my problem of the V.OT 45° being linked with the actually marking on the timing cover with flywheel locked?

[1999 540i m]

I just watched both of the videos now how do I solve my problem of the V.OT 45° being linked with the actually marking on the timing cover with flywheel locked?

possibilities

1, You stuck it in the wrong hole, usually followed by screaming

2, Your crank is twisted, unlikely unless you stuck it in the wrong hole

3, your crank pulley is hammered on in the wrong hole

Did you stick it in the wrong hole?

[geargrinder]

I just watched both of the videos now how do I solve my problem of the V.OT 45° being linked with the actually marking on the timing cover with flywheel locked?

Start your own thread.

Own your thread start.

Thread own start you.

Start your own thread.

[JimLev]

I recommended that very thing to him, even pulled his first post from another thread and started it for him.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...62tu-need-help

[scubajim20]

Tagged for later, Thanks Jim

[zarboz]

This needs stickied :-P

[Samaid16]

1999 740il
I did all timing guides/ new water pump and all new gaskets, new coils and plugs, new vcg etc. Followed the process with the cam blocks, and the audible multimeter and everything seemed fine. Now I am having a hard start, and it eventually starts, it runs like a caterpillar tractor.
Codes P0011 p0021 p1343 1349 1347 and 1345. Fuel cut off on all bank 1.
When I took the valve covers off again, the cams appeared to be in the right position with holes facing up and lobes towards each other, but the hole on the trigger wheel was on the opposite side of where it should’ve been.
Is it possible that incorrect placement of the trigger wheel would cause the misfires on the entire bank 1? I’ll be doing a retime job this weekend.