M52 custom turbo setup

[chikinhed]

Don't hate, I'm just trying to explain the probable causes for others lack of success. I'm sure it works just fine if done right.

Sent from my GTX3582R

[vollosso]

Don't hate, I'm just trying to explain the probable causes for others lack of success. I'm sure it works just fine if done right. Sent from my GTX3582R

No hate here

[milKt]

Don't get hurt.

[manneurex]

I think that the drain plug set up works fine when the ID of the fittings are big enough and oil isn't too thick at start up. The head pressure has to overcome the viscosity and flow restriction of the components used..

Sent from my GTX3582R

I had no problems for 2 years . worked great.

I just recall MANY posts from folks
(some who never had top mounts)

stating that it doesn't work.

I use a low bottom with a drain fitting and originally it had a tiny entry and it worked. I use 1" id line. It works better now that i drilled it out to 3/8"

The car is running, and it's feels quite fast. Second gear acceleration is nothing short of violent from 3.5k to redline . The drain setup seems to be adequate as well as I am not seeing much smoke. Idling my afr sits right where it should, around 14.7. Getting into boost it's in the high 10s in lower gears, 3rd and 4rth it is around 11.5 so I would say the base tune is working out pretty well. No hiccups while driving, I'm loving this thing!

Was getting a fault for the cam sensor circuit on first startup and wasn't running well. After a wiggle test, I pulled back the rubber boot on the connector and found all the insulation gone from all three wires. Not sure how my car was running fine before lol. Slapped a new one in and the fault went away, however the idle was still a bit erratic on dead cold startup and the car would die if I didn't give it gas. I was noticing that when this was happening, the BOV was coming wide open and then almost closed, the car would die when it went wide open. That issue seems to have subsided, but the BOV is still about half way open while idling. Is that normal? Should I get a heavier spring? The spring that's in it right now is really light, I forget what it was exactly, maybe -6lbs. I'm not sure how I feel about the engine sucking in unfiltered air constantly while idling. Other than that the BOV works extremely well. No flutter whatsoever.

[manneurex]

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Pretty happy so far. Cars not very road worthy yet, still a few bugs that need to be worked out such as the BOV that I mentioned, and the hood not fitting. Im getting those issues corrected asap. I'm going to order an Ebay ss exhaust, chop it, vband it and put in an intermediate pipe that goes from my 2.5" dp to the 3" exhaust. The 3" dp will be next on the list.

Thinking -8lb white spring for the BOV. Anyone running one? Will it keep the valve closed while idling? I read that someone had success using large washers to shim the -6lb spring as well.

[E36 328is]

My brother just put this 3" exhaust on his 328is it fits great. Can't beat it for the price and the quality in person is top notch.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=CTBK

[manneurex]

My brother just put this 3" exhaust on his 328is it fits great. Can't beat it for the price and the quality in person is top notch. http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=CTBK

Nice, thats good to know since it says fitment is based on a 4 door. I will order it when i get off work. Can anybody chime in on which Bov spring will keep it closed while im idling? The engine dying issue is back

[ocyrus411]

i walked a 350z today, said he had 50K under the hood

[manneurex]

i walked a 350z today, said he had 50K under the hood

Lol People are funny. Cant imagine where all that money went. Unobtainium rods? Solid gold headgaskets?

Was he boosted?

[ocyrus411]

not boosted but built motor apparently

[milKt]

not boosted but built motor apparently

He may have had a fully built his ego as well

Great Job tearing it down.

[vollosso]

He may have had a fully built his ego as well Great Job tearing it down.

talk about an expensive procedure.

[manneurex]

Replaced my starter today and found that the connection for the FPR vacuum line had blown the epoxy out of it. I refilled it with epoxy in both ends this time (My FPR line goes to where the tank vent valve once went now).

How do you guys go about sealing the ICV connector and FPR line connector? Silicone the crap out of it where it goes into the manifold?? Anyone have pictures? I know those orings and loose connections are not holding the 17psi that I'm pushing.

[E36 328is]

I think this is what your looking for?
https://maximumpsi.com/product/m50-b...-icv-hose-kit/

What part of Seattle are you in? I would like to check out your car sometime I'm in Kirkland and have a similar setup I would like to put on my m3.

[manneurex]

I think this is what your looking for?
https://maximumpsi.com/product/m50-b...-icv-hose-kit/

What part of Seattle are you in? I would like to check out your car sometime I'm in Kirkland and have a similar setup I would like to put on my m3.

I already have that, great product. But I am actually referring to the tabbed connector that attaches into the manifold, all it has is an o-ring to seal it. I replaced the o-ring, but I know for a fact it's leaking. Also the nip where the fpr used to connect, I have tried to plug that twice now with no success.

[vollosso]

I epoxied in a brass fitting used to adapt polycarbonate hoses. If you get the right sizes it has like <1/8" clearance around it to the manifold

[manneurex]

Welp, it’s been a while, but I’m going through the car and have managed to get some stuff done. So far I have replaced the radiator, battery, clutch pedal bushings, driveshaft, and rebuilt the turbo. I aligned the compressor wheel with the shaft and the nut using paint pen marks. The compressor wheel was a pressed fit so I got it good an hot with a heat gun and was able to slide it easily back onto the shaft.

[manneurex]

While the turbo was out I noticed that the manifold had melted through the heat insulation that I wrapped around the -10 drain line, and began melting the outer nylon weave. So i wrapped it with exhaust wrap. Looks like ass but it should be more robust protection for the line.
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There was a leak from the flange for the -10 drain as well. When I pulled the bolts off the flange they were pretty loose so when i went back together i dabbed some red locktite on the bolts for both flanges. I also used a small amount of red rtv on both gaskets.
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[Mklock]

Ahhh a survivor. Nice to see cars still running.

[manneurex]

Here are some pics with the turbo back in the car. The new 3.15 diff just came in, so I stopped by the dealer and got some new fill and drain plugs. I also have new oil/filter, diff oil, gallon of coolant, and spark plugs to get maintenance caught up. Lastly I drained all of the old gas out of the car by jumping power and ground to the pump and routing the line into a 5 gal gas can, so I could put fresh gas in it. I will try to get more work done, and more pics uploaded soon.

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[manneurex]

“New” 3.15 LSD going in. I got it from a forum member and it already had the proper flanges, which saves me some time.
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[JPE36M3]

looking good on the refresh! glad to see a local come back alive. you still near Seattle?

“New” 3.15 LSD going in. I got it from a forum member and it already had the proper flanges, which saves me some time.
C8C6BC5F-76CB-4503-9CC8-BAF614456F08.jpg

[manneurex]

looking good on the refresh! glad to see a local come back alive. you still near Seattle?

Yeah I am, I'm going to be attending the test and tune at Pacific Raceways on Friday the 17th, you should come out if you can! Hoping to be in the low 12's but I don't know if my tires will allow for that. I also am not going to be launching it hard because I am afraid to break something until I replace all bushings and weld in the subframe mounting point reinforcements that have been sitting in my garage for years.

[manneurex]

Update:

Gapped and torqued a new set of NGK 4554 plugs and changed my oil. Then turned my attention to completely and permanently sealing my intake manifold. The original FPR fitting, was pretty loose in the manifold and the o-ring that I put in was not exactly the right size.

The ICV manifold fitting was better but I decided the best solution was to pack both of them with marine grade epoxy, which resists fuel and oil. Final result is not pretty but I can visually see that it is sealed all the way around, and it’s not going anywhere. I saw one of the high horsepower guys do this a while back and I can't for the life of me find the thread, but I have been wanting to completely get rid of all my boost leaks ever since.
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It takes 24 hours for the epoxy to cure so I replaced my Vanos line while I had easy access to the bottom banjo bolt.

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I ordered six brand new Bremi coils, which get here Friday. Between now and then, I just need to flush the cooling system and replace the gauge pods, after that the car will be road worthy for the first time in a year and a half! I still have more work to do but it is going to feel so good to drive this thing again, and hopefully the ignition breaking up at high RPM issue is gone for good.

[manneurex]

Was able to work on the car a bit over the weekend. Car is finally driving. Got the following done:

• Reinstalled the intake manifold
• Installed the new Bremi ignition coils
• Flushed the cooling system
• Took out my haggard ass gauge pods, and installed the rally road pods on the column shell

New vs. old:








My Gauges finally not dangling all over my steering wheel due to broken pods.