New to me '98 323is

[RightYouAreKen]

Unfortunately I likely won't get anything. I don't have collision (seemed like a waste on a ~$4k car). MI is a no-fault state, so best I can do is go after her insurance company, but it's maxed at $1000 that I can collect. There was absolutely nothing I could've done to avoid the collision, and my wallet is going to pay the price.

I'm unbelievably pissed still. I haven't even changed the oil on the car yet...

Wait, what? Someone rear ended you, and the most you can collect from their insurance is $1000? Why is that? It should be irrelevant that you don't have collision. Their liability should cover their f-up.

[Nanniepoo]

Wait, what? Someone rear ended you, and the most you can collect from their insurance is $1000? Why is that? It should be irrelevant that you don't have collision. Their liability should cover their f-up.

And liability is maxed at $1,000 it seems. This is what my insurance company told me and I know a lawyer who just went through this process.

It is possible that insurance companies can go after each other for more than that. But us lowly citizens cannot. Welcome to Michigan.


Took another look... I'm losing engine oil from the drain plug. Guessing it made its way back to the trans, hoping there was so much liquid due to the AC. Heck I might get out of this with a couple washers, few whacks of a hammer, an oil change, and a quick buff job

[Nanniepoo]

Engine oil leak

[amancuso]

Good luck there, I hope it all works out.

[BMW1999m3]

Automatic Transmission Fluid is often red but e36 manual transmissions should take gear oil, which looks like engine oil, but it's thicker and smells terrible. Seems like just a coincidence that you noticed the engine oil leaking at the same time as the collision.

[Nanniepoo]

Automatic Transmission Fluid is often red but e36 manual transmissions should take gear oil, which looks like engine oil, but it's thicker and smells terrible. Seems like just a coincidence that you noticed the engine oil leaking at the same time as the collision.

It probably isn't the smartest, but I bought it without ever looking underneath. And I've been so busy that I haven't had time to crawl under it after...I really have no idea if it was there before or not.

I'll be throwing a washer on the screw to get the heat shield out of the way and will go for a quick test drive. I'll probably order stuff for a trans oil change just because. I don't feel comfortable going a significant distance until I'm confident what kind of oil and where it is coming from, but that one drip and whatever that hose is was all I noticed. There's considerably more oil on the bottom of the oil pan.

[Nanniepoo]

Well.... That took care of the rattle. I drove it harder than normal and no obviously bad sounds. But still feel it in my gut that something isn't right. But I also always feel like something is on the brink of breaking anyways.

What should I do next? Just check the trans fluid level?

[Nanniepoo]

Good luck there, I hope it all works out.

Thank you. Things are looking up!

[BMW1999m3]

Trans and differential fluid usually lasts a very long time. BMW calls their manual transmission oil "lifetime" but that just means it'll last till the warranty period is over at 100k miles. All fluids should be replaced eventually. If you'd like to check your trans fluid level, it's never a bad idea. I put off checking my trans and differential fluids until my car had about 150k miles. They were both kinda black so I put new Valvoline synthetic in there for peace of mind

[ihsnshaik]

Trans and differential fluid usually lasts a very long time. BMW calls their manual transmission oil "lifetime" but that just means it'll last till the warranty period is over at 100k miles. All fluids should be replaced eventually. If you'd like to check your trans fluid level, it's never a bad idea. I put off checking my trans and differential fluids until my car had about 150k miles. They were both kinda black so I put new Valvoline synthetic in there for peace of mind

Never changed out any fluids minus engine oil on my dads 300k X5...He bought it new and I did everything on it. Surprisingly brakes and tires were the main things replaced other than the AC compressor.

[B320i]

Automatic Transmission Fluid is often red but e36 manual transmissions should take gear oil, which looks like engine oil, but it's thicker and smells terrible. Seems like just a coincidence that you noticed the engine oil leaking at the same time as the collision.

The sticker on the transmission (based off its colour) will tell you the right fluid for the application.

Generally, ATF is the accepted option, although if you are willing to be careful with the transmission before it warms up, Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF-LT1, IIRC) is acceptable. Gear oil is too thick for these cars, and could cause issues longterm...
It seems before 1994, BMW stipulated for Transmission AND differential fluid changes, contrary to the "Lifetime" thing that goes around for "ALL" E36s (Just like earlier E36's had a 7500 mile interval, then a 9,300 interval for engine oil). Whether it was done, well, you'd need to check the car's logbook for that, LOL.

OP, it almost looked as though you had a transmission cooler leak. Forgot you had the manual. Check both the drain/fill plugs, just in case.
And the engine oil thing could be a crush washer thats gone bad, or the plug is too loose, and was rattled moreso with this incident.

[Nanniepoo]

Quick update, while I think the damage is minor, and car is probably driveable (taking care to check trans oil level), I need a repair estimate in order to go after the other driver if I decide to go down that road. So I can't work on it until I get it in to a shop. And of course seems all the collision shops are only open 8-5 Mon-Fri. I work 7-430 with an hour commute on each end....so not sure when I'll get it in.

[Nanniepoo]

Another update...car is not okay to drive. Got it to the collision shop around 10 for the estimate. It was about a 25 min drive (mostly highway) and by the time I got there, there was a noticeable difference in shifting. It felt notchy and would kind of clunk into gear. Particularly 1 and 2. Also noticed like a groan/rubbing sound when accelerating.

Hopefully he's able to figure out the cause...but any ideas? Could just be low on oil, so I'll obviously need to track down the leak.

[Nanniepoo]

Got the estimate, just over $2k. He didn't notice anything leaking from the trans or notice anything weird at all. Hmmm

[tigerpro357]

maybe he didnt notice anything leaking cause there was nothing left to leak?

[Nanniepoo]

I'll be picking it up Monday and will tear into it.

I'm trying to get rid of my old E36 so i have room to work but currently sitting on a fraudulent cashier's check so it may take a while

[Nanniepoo]

maybe he didnt notice anything leaking cause there was nothing left to leak?

Possible, I'll be definitely checking the fluid level, checking the mounts, shifter bushings, etc when I get it. Was really hoping he would since it's free... Maybe he did.

If it's still odd I don't mind replacing it, but that's a big time commitment.

I forgot to mention ran the codes again to see if anything popped up due to the accident. Actually some went away! IIRC secondary air pump relay, intake air temp sensor, and too long to closed loop control are all that remains.

[Nanniepoo]

Been driving it the past couple days, <5 miles each way. First couple drives were great, last drive there was a very obvious shuddering sound when accelerating in every gear. I'm not sure if it is only in certain RPM ranges because I didn't get on it too much. No vibration and I'm not sure from where. I hit the throttle in neutral and there was no sound. I'm thinking of continuing to drive it short trips and first projects will be mounts and all fluids. I still have to do the RTABs and get a rear end alignment, I can have them poke around too. Good news is I didn't notice anything too odd with shifting, except 5th gear seemed to alternate between having resistance or smoothly being able to push it over, which I don't think is a big issue.

I seriously have no time to work on cars anymore

[Nanniepoo]

Upcoming project

Cooling system:
Swapping in Mishimoto rad (and Samco hoses)
T-stat
T-stat housing
T-stat bolts (broke one last time doing this)
Water pump

Trans:
Mounts
Fluid change
Diff fluid change

Engine:
Mounts
Intake air temp sensor
Swapping bavauto CAI for the crap one that is in there
Oil change

Suspension:
RTABs
RSMs
Rear sway bar links (on hand)

Probably adding a few things as it goes on. Anything else for in the area/while you're there type stuff?



I still haven't parted ways with my old 325i. Thinking about pulling off that bumper to put on the new one. Don't think trunks are interchangeable between coupe and sedan though.

[Nanniepoo]

RTABs were replaced over the weekend. Noticed the difference immediately on the test drive around the neighborhood and on the way to the dealership for an alignment which surprised me. I definitely noticed issues with the old ones on the highway, but it wasn't until there were fresh ones that I could tell how much more stable it is now hitting a bump even at 15 mph.

I also crawled under to check the trans for what kind of fluid I need. Either the sticker is gone or so coated in crap I can't find it. It is a Getrag 220.0.0225.98...any ideas on fluid type?

- - - Updated - - -

Dealership called...driver's side trailing arm is bent. Bye bye $600

[slocar]

600? What's that all about? You realize you can get a used trailing arm from any non-M e36 for 50 bucks, right? Not exactly something that gets damaged much ...

[Nanniepoo]

I don't know how it could've happened. Must've been before I bought it, maybe an accident or drifting/spinning into a curb? I doubt my little fender bender caused it.

And this isn't a job I think I'm up for, I would imagine pushing out the axles would be a PITA. Plus it is my DD and I need to drive to work the next two weeks, 100 miles round trip a day...need the car ready for it. With all I save DIYing everything else I can afford to pay someone for the toughies.

I'm kind of surprised at the price to be honest...I'm assuming it's all new parts. From a quick search a new trailling arm itself is $500-$600 and they're replacing all the associated hardware and it includes labor. I should have it back tomorrow or Thursday at the latest.

[masterPdidy]

I have a 98 323is coupe. Only 108k miles. I bought it October of 2014 with 97,800k. The car is in excellent condition, well until I got behind the wheel. I love BMWS, I am a first time owner and I couldn't think of even driving any other vehicle non bmw. But my question is this. When I hit about 50 mph the steering wheel begins to shake. I can't tell if it is a rear wheel bearing or control arm. Some days it is very harsh other days it rides smooth. I am a diy type of guy because these cars intrigue me so much. But I know Sooo little... it could be something as simple as balance, alignment, etc. If anyone might have some help full advice I would greatly appreciate it. I will take her in to a mechanic if it is beyond my knowledge. But I have done all maintenance myself so far and tons of research. I am just looking for some helpful advice. Thank you for your time.

[Nanniepoo]

I have a 98 323is coupe. Only 108k miles. I bought it October of 2014 with 97,800k. The car is in excellent condition, well until I got behind the wheel. I love BMWS, I am a first time owner and I couldn't think of even driving any other vehicle non bmw. But my question is this. When I hit about 50 mph the steering wheel begins to shake. I can't tell if it is a rear wheel bearing or control arm. Some days it is very harsh other days it rides smooth. I am a diy type of guy because these cars intrigue me so much. But I know Sooo little... it could be something as simple as balance, alignment, etc. If anyone might have some help full advice I would greatly appreciate it. I will take her in to a mechanic if it is beyond my knowledge. But I have done all maintenance myself so far and tons of research. I am just looking for some helpful advice. Thank you for your time.

I'll put together a more detailed response in your other thread. But very likely it isn't anything in the rear. Sounds silly but; steering wheel = front, seat = rear. Definitely not the rear bearing, I drove on a bad one for about 10,000 miles and there was zero influence on the steering wheel.




Update on my car coming. In a bit of a dispute with the dealership. I know you're all on the edge of your seats.

[Nanniepoo]

So turns out the dealership screwed up when they told me trailing arm. It was the lower rear control arm. So I threw a little bit of a fit because I never would've agreed to the job if I had known it was that. Receptionist had no idea what I was talking about so took me back to the shop. Mechanic was extremely helpful. Got it up on a lift and he started to point at what had been replaced and immediately went ooohhhh....that's not a trailing arm. Well I'll talk to the manager in the morning and let her know. Took a couple minutes to look around underneath and I told him some of my upcoming projects and he gave me some pointers. Just general talk about cars as well.

Anyways, car is driving like a champ now. A lot more stable.

Bumping this for my manual trans: Either the sticker is gone or so coated in crap I can't find it. It is a Getrag 220.0.0225.98...any ideas on fluid type?