New to me '98 323is

[Nanniepoo]

Got my code scanners today...

Airbag light was from passenger seatbelt switch. Cleared it, we'll see if it stays away.

Bunch of codes for secondary air system, ICV mechanically stuck, intake air temp sensor, and I think crankshaft position sensor.

Looks like I have more work to do.

[Pelican Parts]

Congrats on the purchase! For the car feeling like that on the highway, I'd check all the necessary bushings. You can use our DIY tech articles for some assistance while you go through the car and fix it up. Hope this helps!

-Luccia

[Nanniepoo]

Thanks, I use Pelican DIY write-ups frequently.

I'm a little confused as to why I'm getting the CPS and ICV codes when I haven't noticed anything remotely odd about how my car idles. I'm almost thinking I somehow tripped them because of how many times I stalled getting used to driving a stick consistently . I'll have to make sure I actually cleared them and see if they come back.

And doing some reading on the secondary air system...I'll have to get diagnosing but if it is the pump that is bad, I'll be deleting it and getting the simulator.

[BMW1999m3]

I, too, sometimes get random codes without any indication of a problem. The only consistent CEL code I get pertains to my Secondary Air Pump(because I removed it and have not yet installed a SAP simulator), but on some rare occasions I've had stuff like VANOS and injector fault codes stored in memory, even though there's nothing wrong with them.

I don't know exactly how they get there, but I think these computers just wig out sometimes and sense random malfunctions, like after stalling the car or subjecting it to other irregular things. Just clear the memory and worry about what codes come back on a consistent basis.

[Nanniepoo]

Ran the codes again, they all stuck around. Fortunately I misread one of them (code reader sits in upside down), and it's not a stuck ICV, but instead a code for taking too long to warm up. Which I've noticed. An FDM was done, and I plan on reverting back to stock. SAP codes were still there...need to diagnose that one. And confirmed crankshaft sensor, although still zero symptoms of one. Odd.

I was planning on doing the RTABs today, and even though it didn't rain as much as they claimed it would, it is beyond humid outside, so postponing a bit. I did fix the OBC backlighting though

Before:


After:


Took a whopping 10 min.

I'll be starting a for sale/for rent thread.

SRS code reader will be for rent.


And 8 M50 Mann oil filters (with crush rings/o-rings) are for sale. Probably will only want $35 or so, shipping on me. $42 new.


As well as the bavauto ignition coils (you can see them in the background of the oil filter pic). Need to clean them up before pictures, bought them 5/12, have less than 30K on them.

[B320i]

Taking too long to warm up?

I'm gonna say that might be a very cold thermostat at work?

[Nanniepoo]

Taking too long to warm up?

I'm gonna say that might be a very cold thermostat at work?

Yup. While it was colder it would basically hang out at the 1/4 hash mark. Now that it is warmer it'll get to 12 o'clock, but takes forever. And on cooler days if I'm on the highway for a while it'll start to drop from 12 o'clock. I have the Mishimoto rad in my old car and have a water pump I was planning on putting in it, so both those will go into the new one with a proper spec'd t-stat.

[Nanniepoo]

So here's an odd one....

Pulled over in a neighborhood because one of the windows in the back closed and was rattling. I need to tighten up my parking brake because it won't hold on the gentlest of inclines, and I was on a pretty serious one. So I had to leave it in gear to get out to open the window again, obviously had to turn the car off. Got back in to restart it and nothing. No dings, lights, nuthin. Kept trying and trying... Checked under the hood, nothing weird. Went into the trunk and literally just touched the battery cable and for some reason decided to try just turning the key without starting... And everything lit up. OBC asking for the time and radio in demo mode. Started right up.

Why would that happen? I can't imagine the cable is that touchy. I didn't even feel it or see it move. I can toss this one up as a fluke but don't want it happening again. Who knows where I'll be next time. Or if it is the cable being touchy, couldn't it lose contact and stall me out while driving?

[mr ilia]

How did you fix the OBC lights?
I have the same issue, cant read the clock.
[
QUOTE=Nanniepoo;28542967]Yup. While it was colder it would basically hang out at the 1/4 hash mark. Now that it is warmer it'll get to 12 o'clock, but takes forever. And on cooler days if I'm on the highway for a while it'll start to drop from 12 o'clock. I have the Mishimoto rad in my old car and have a water pump I was planning on putting in it, so both those will go into the new one with a proper spec'd t-stat.[/QUOTE]

Very traditional symptoms of a failed thermostat.

[Nanniepoo]

How did you fix the OBC lights?
I have the same issue, cant read the clock.
[
QUOTE=Nanniepoo;28542967]Yup. While it was colder it would basically hang out at the 1/4 hash mark. Now that it is warmer it'll get to 12 o'clock, but takes forever. And on cooler days if I'm on the highway for a while it'll start to drop from 12 o'clock. I have the Mishimoto rad in my old car and have a water pump I was planning on putting in it, so both those will go into the new one with a proper spec'd t-stat.

Very traditional symptoms of a failed thermostat.[/QUOTE]

Bavauto sells the 4 LEDs for like $12. I'm sure other retailers are about that price. Bavauto includes the instructions.

You literally pull the OBC out and on the back you should see the backs of the 4 LEDs. It's either brown or gray, can't remember. Twist them out with some needle nose pliers. Twist new ones in. Enjoy!

[15Michaeljoseph]

909 Miles?

[Nanniepoo]

909 Miles?

Haha I wish. Almost 150k.


Turns out the electrical issue was just a barely loose battery lead. Got to work today, went to close the sunroof by holding the driver's door lock, and it was only locking the driver's door. Got in to key on and close the sunroof and got nothing. I could turn the lead on the battery but think it was still tight enough that I wouldn't be able to pull it off, so tightened it up (courtesy of the trunk toolkit, best thing ever).

[Nanniepoo]

Well this sucks...was rear-ended on the way home yesterday. Exterior damage really looks like nothing, but the spare wheel compartment is crushed in. The tire is pretty well wedged in there.



Only have an exterior shot for now.

But the big issue is this:





Why on earth would my trans be leaking? I haven't got a chance to crawl under there yet. I did drive the 4 miles back home, and it started clattering near the end, only while accelerating.

[slocar]

That sucks!

Maybe the diff/driveshaft got pushed forward momentarily and damaged something? I'm not really sure how that would happen. Where is it leaking from?

[Nanniepoo]

Looks like it's leaking right from the trans... Really don't know yet, but that pic was at the scene. Stopped leaking, but then looked under again when I got home and it was dripping again.

Is there anyway that AC condensation would get that far back? It looked oily, but could've just picked it up from the road surface.

I could see the clattering being a CV joint or something a little out of alignment. Seems more likely than something with the trans. Power felt fine and no vibration.

[mr ilia]

Sorry to hear this. It looks like you have drivetrain damage. Pit it on the lift and you should see the cracked transmission or diff. It is most likely parts car at this point.
I hope you get paid off well from this accident.

[Nanniepoo]

Sorry to hear this. It looks like you have drivetrain damage. Pit it on the lift and you should see the cracked transmission or diff. It is most likely parts car at this point.
I hope you get paid off well from this accident.

Unfortunately I likely won't get anything. I don't have collision (seemed like a waste on a ~$4k car). MI is a no-fault state, so best I can do is go after her insurance company, but it's maxed at $1000 that I can collect. There was absolutely nothing I could've done to avoid the collision, and my wallet is going to pay the price.

I'm unbelievably pissed still. I haven't even changed the oil on the car yet...

[BMW1999m3]

Dude don't even worry about it, I bet with a hammer and a little bit of paint polish the exterior and spare tire compartment will look perfectly fine again. As for being a "parts car" at this point, come on man, don't say some depressing shit like that. Even if his diff or trans got cracked, it's not very expensive to replace (I've even JB welded mine before with perfectly fine results). Shit, sometimes old transmission seals start leaking just by touching them the wrong way. It could have just got nudged slightly by the drive shaft and started dripping. I've seen it happen lots of times.


Please don't junk the car!!

[slocar]

^ This. It looks good and whatever got damaged can be fixed for next to nothing ... spare tire well a little smashed? Who cares really? You're not sitting in it when you're driving the car ...

[Nanniepoo]

I'm definitely going to check it out before making a decision. I was looking for a body shop, but now that I think about it there's a gas station shop at the end of my street where I can get it up on a lift.

I don't care if my wheel well is messed up, but this is my first rodeo with this and I'm concerned about the frame being straight. If it's just a trans, axle, diff etc I'll just fix it. Body work is a new frontier and worries me.

[slocar]

I'm definitely going to check it out before making a decision. I was looking for a body shop, but now that I think about it there's a gas station shop at the end of my street where I can get it up on a lift.

I don't care if my wheel well is messed up, but this is my first rodeo with this and I'm concerned about the frame being straight. If it's just a trans, axle, diff etc I'll just fix it. Body work is a new frontier and worries me.

The frame should be straight where it matters ... the suspension bolts to the strong parts of the frame;the spare tire well is flimsy in comparison and bends easily. I'd be very surprised if the major frame points got shifted in an impact small enough to not even break the rear bumper.

[BMW1999m3]

^Yeah man, my M3 has actually been through worse collisions than that and it's still perfectly fine So don't even sweat it. Body work is not so bad. You'll save a lot of money if you fix it yourself rather than pay a body shop to do it.

[Nanniepoo]

Ahh well that's comforting! I knew the spare tire well is a crumple zone but have no idea how easily other things could be affected

[tigerpro357]

I wouldnt sweat it at all, its just metal, it can be finessed back to perfection, especially if you have the will to do it. unless it gets put through a car crusher or something that basically flattens it, but chances are, the car is the least of your worries if that happens in a collision

[Nanniepoo]

Shop is slammed today so no luck there. I did get it up on my ramps and noticed my heat shield is loose, so pretty positive that is the cause of the clattering.

However I did notice oil around the trans, and looks clean so doubt it has been there for a while...but looks like normal engine oil. I realize not all trans oils will be the same, but isn't it generally red?

Pics of trunk damage and spare wheel well were not as bad as I thought!





You'll be able to see the oil around/on the trans. Any thoughts?