Manual trans selector rod seal replacement: doing it w/out removal of stuff?

[Redshift]

So is this possible? It seems like it would be do-able but am looking for tips/tricks. Having pulled and re-installed 3 transmissions in the past couple of weeks I'm looking to avoid a huge job and hassle just for that small seal that is leaking on my new/used trans (yes, we replaced it but suspect it got nicked upon installation by accident).

So can this be done without removal of the DS/exhaust/etc? Who has some tricks for doing so?

[JimLev]

The only thing I did that comes close was to install the Rogue short shifter and weighted shift selector rod that clips into the end of the tranny rod.
I left the exhaust in place, removed the tranny cross brace so I could lower the tranny to give me more room and it was still a PITA.
You need to pull the c-clip and take the pin out before you get to the seal. What did you use to pull the seal out? I haven't had to replace mine...yet.
Pulling and installing that seal has to be 3x more of a PITA.

[Stück]

I've changed it a few times on personal cars in place without removing anything aside from the shifter. It is NOT fun though, and getting the stupid knuckle pin back in place with a fresh foam cup is difficult in that position.

Inspect the bore when you remove the leaking seal to make sure it wasn't scratched. I use anaerobic sealant around the sides of these seals to promote a good seal.

[whiteghost1]

Do you have a anaerobic sealant which you can recommend?

[Redshift]

The only thing I did that comes close was to install the Rogue short shifter and weighted shift selector rod that clips into the end of the tranny rod.
I left the exhaust in place, removed the tranny cross brace so I could lower the tranny to give me more room and it was still a PITA.
You need to pull the c-clip and take the pin out before you get to the seal. What did you use to pull the seal out? I haven't had to replace mine...yet.
Pulling and installing that seal has to be 3x more of a PITA.

We used a small flathead screwdriver. Same procedure as we did on Paul's car a few weeks prior. I think the new one got nicked going in. I thought about dropping the crossmember so it would give me more room.

I've changed it a few times on personal cars in place without removing anything aside from the shifter. It is NOT fun though, and getting the stupid knuckle pin back in place with a fresh foam cup is difficult in that position.

Inspect the bore when you remove the leaking seal to make sure it wasn't scratched. I use anaerobic sealant around the sides of these seals to promote a good seal.

Inspection may be difficult if it's in the car, but I will try. Maybe the best route is to see if the "hard to shift into reverse" issue goes away first and if not, and if I need to replace the trans anyway, the problem goes away at that point with a new install. Man I hope it doesn't come to that.

Anaerobic sealant is a great idea. Do you use it on the bore, or on the edges after the seal is in place?

- - - Updated - - -

Do you have a anaerobic sealant which you can recommend?

Pretty sure the Loctite 518 would work - the same as used on the trans output flange. Stück may be able to confirm.

[Stück]

I put the seal over my pinky and apply anerobic sealer around the edge, smoothing it with my finger. Just a film...

Loctite510

[pleiades]

Feeling masochistic today?

Is that shaft seal any wider on the v8 trannies? I thought removal was a PITA on my 528i even with the ZF trans out of the car and sitting on a bench. I recall using an assortment of small picks, flathead drivers, etc. Since the seal is basically a thin metal piece, I ended up puncturing/splitting it along/around its flat surface (not much to work with) until it was finally loose. I sweated to the end worrying I would score the bore.

I know tools are made to remove these things and BMW no doubt has their own special version. If the seal were wide enough, I think second time around I'd try puncturing it with a small hook screw that I could attach to a slide puller.

Someone mentioned removing the trans crossmember to lower things for better access. Wouldn't that require unbolting the driveshaft too?

[Stück]

The trick to removing the seal is to dent it inward on one side, and then pry it out 180 away from the dent. Pops out easy peasy every time this way.

[philly98540]

Sorry to say it, but, oh man, that is going to suck doing it in the car. I had a hard time getting the old one out on my car with the tranny on the floor. Nothings impossible though.. right? Correct tools and ingenuity might make this doable.

Most importantly, how did you remove it the first time? Any chance you scratched the selector rod shaft where the seal is? If so, you need to fix that or the new one will likely leak too. Hopefully its all good!

Id say remove the crossmember and lower the rear of the trans down to get some space (already mentioned). Remove the shifter linkage.

Maybe you could hook one of these into the seal: http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-hook-95757.html

Then use a crow bar or long screwdriver to force on the "T" handle of the above tool to yank it out. Maybe wrap a couple layers or electrical tape on the tool so you don't scratch the selector rod?

Or try one of those slide hammer seal puller with a hook on the end?

Hmmm....

[16valex]

Yeah! It's almost impossible to replace the seal with the transmission still in the car. But good luck to you.

I was sweat too with it out on the floor afraid of scoring and creating monster leak.
What I did was I drilled some smallest bit I can find then hook it and pull.

[blackknight530i]

Ok, I'm not afraid to come in here and say how I installed the seal wrong. Brian, again, I'm sorry. I removed the old seal with a small flat blade screwdriver that worked pretty well. The problem came about when installing the new one. Basically, what happened was I set the seal up to go into the bore, then took a socket to knock it in place, but I made the mistake of using a socket just slightly too big (like 1mm too big). This allowed one side to go in before the other and one edge caught on the edge. I tried to correct it and got the seal in, but the damage was done. I said I hoped it wouldn't leak, but that it very well might. We didn't have another and couldn't get another, so we kept going and figured if it did leak, that it would seep out, rather than pour out. I'm 99% sure I didn't score the selector shaft seal or the bore, I think I just damaged the seal itself. It certainly didn't go in smoothly and probably has a dent or two that are hard to see.

As for fixing it while on the car, I think there is enough room to lower the transmission a bit by disconnecting the crossmember and possibly the guibo and the shifter arm from the back of the transmission. Once it's lowered, I like using Stuck's idea of denting one side and then prying it out. Who knows, it could be easy to pull out due to the damage I caused. As for the new seal, a dead blow hammer and the correct size socket should make quick work of getting the seal in. Then putting the selector thing on the end should be a matter of setting up the clip like it came from BMW and sliding it on once the pin is in. This is all way easier with a lift than it would be laying on your back.

[Redshift]

I'm not sure what I'll do yet. I want to drive it some to see if I can live with the stiff reverse gear. The other gears seem fine though. I wonder what would cause a reverse gear to be stiff and difficult to engage but the rest are fine...if I decide to keep it the seal will clearly need changing. If not, I will end up having to pull it and change all seals on whatever I put in to replace it so either way I've got work ahead of me that I thought was behind me. Oh well.

[rf900rkw]

Stiff going forward into gear, or stiff moving sideways into the reverse gate?

[JimLev]

Ok, I'm not afraid to come in here and say how I installed the seal wrong. Brian, again, I'm sorry.

Nothing wrong with being a standup honest guy. We all make mistakes, which is how we learn.
When I did my cam guides last year I screwed up the crank seal by putting it in the lower cover before I installed the cover.
I caught the lower lip on the bottom of the crank snout which caused the spring to come out of the seal lip. It started leaking as soon as I started the engine.
When I did my friends guides last month I made sure I installed the seal after I put the lower cover on.

Brian, not sure a new seal will make shifting into R any easier. The rod only twists L /R and moves in and out.

[Twistytee]

I take it from reading these comments that it’s not worth trying to replace the selector rod seal with the tranny still on the car? Mine is leaking, but I only noticed because I was replacing the shifter. I have the exhaust down for other maintenance and was thinking about trying now, but if it’s such a hassle maybe I should leave it until it’s time to drop the tranny to service the clutch?

[JimLev]

Don't know if it's even possible to do it with the tranny in the car.
If you drop the cross member under the tranny to lower the tranny as much as possible you still don't have a lot of room to work in.

[Twistytee]

There’s a DIY in the m3 forums where a guy did it with the drive shaft and exhaust removed. He mentioned lowering the rear cross member to get a better angle. I think I’ll leave it be until I actually drop the tranny and then I can do the selector shaft bushings and the detent kit at the same time.

[suvslayer]

I just replaced the selector rod seal with transmission in car. It's possible to do it with trans in car. I didn't even have to remove the support cross member to access it (I did have DS and exhaust out, as I'm servicing DS for other things). It's a bit tight in there, but definitely accessible.

As for removal, I'll provide my lessons learned on getting the seal out: my wife contributed a small crochet hook for the job. I had to make a pilot hole with a dental pick, but once in I was able to push the crochet hook through and use the barb on it to hook the metal in the seal. It's actually a near perfect tool. Once I got the hook on the scene, the seal was out within 10-15 minutes.

[DaveydM3]

I just replaced the selector rod seal with transmission in car. It's possible to do it with trans in car. I didn't even have to remove the support cross member to access it (I did have DS and exhaust out, as I'm servicing DS for other things). It's a bit tight in there, but definitely accessible.

As for removal, I'll provide my lessons learned on getting the seal out: my wife contributed a small crochet hook for the job. I had to make a pilot hole with a dental pick, but once in I was able to push the crochet hook through and use the barb on it to hook the metal in the seal. It's actually a near perfect tool. Once I got the hook on the scene, the seal was out within 10-15 minutes.

Excellent tip, my friend. Worked great.