Kouks e34 complete rebuild

[S61Dan]

That just makes them cheaper if you're going to be swapping the parts into an m50/m52.

OP was thinking about putting " A whole M54 in" So I figured I would throw it out there.

[Binjammin]

OP was thinking about putting " A whole M54 in" So I figured I would throw it out there.

You do make a valid point.

[E38740iMD]

I was lucky to get a M54 bottom end for $300. Basically, you are making a S50 clone

You get a good M54B30 engine and install crankshaft, rods and pistons into your M50/M52 block and you will have 3.0L engine with 10.3:1 compression ratio. Then add s50/s52 camshafts and you will have S50us clone. Use your Red label ecu with early non EWS M3 chip, might need a different DME for Vanos engine.

Since we are on topic. Does the b35 pistons fit the m50?. Does the block need to be bored for proper fitment?

You guys make it seem like it slides in

[Binjammin]

m30b35 pistons in an m50?

[E38740iMD]

m30b35 pistons in an m50?

Sorry autocorrect messed with my post
B30 pistons in m50 (from M54)

[kouks]

Alright, you guys got me thinking. Just to organized thoughts and continue with opinions, here are my options...

Option 1: straight M50 rebuild

Anything beyond a straight M50 rebuild will depend on the possibility or availability of the proper electronic control for the setup. It would have to be a reliable and not too costly setup.

Option 2: use the Pistons, crank and rods from an M54 only.

Option 3: same as 2 plus s52 cams

Option 4: entire M54 install.

For simplicity I'm leaning to 2, but 3 seems intriguing. I'm thinking finding the cams will be difficult and the DME setup is questionable.

[biasvoltage]

Something to consider about the engine swap is the California smog test nonsense.

Look at the trouble this guy had, to the point where he's selling this 540iT at a loss: http://carbuying.jalopnik.com/this-1...1490889/+damon

[S61Dan]

Alright, you guys got me thinking. Just to organized thoughts and continue with opinions, here are my options...

Option 1: straight M50 rebuild

Anything beyond a straight M50 rebuild will depend on the possibility or availability of the proper electronic control for the setup. It would have to be a reliable and not too costly setup.

Option 2: use the Pistons, crank and rods from an M54 only.

Option 3: same as 2 plus s52 cams

Option 4: entire M54 install.

For simplicity I'm leaning to 2, but 3 seems intriguing. I'm thinking finding the cams will be difficult and the DME setup is questionable.

Honestly if it's for your daughter, just work with whats in the car already. No point in putting in an m54 or whatnot when you want the car "teen-proof" more then performance. You did say "Daughter #1" overheated it last time so if the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, you are better off with the ole' cheap m50

[Old525i]

+1

[kouks]

Ok, with the smog, DME and the daughter issues I think keeping it stock will do for now. Plus I can get it done quicker so I can have a drivable car for her soon. Maybe save the cash for an S62/6-speed swap on the e38 later on.

Found a friend with an engine lift, so the block is coming out and going to the shop for inspection too.

[E38740iMD]

m50 is cast iron block right? if so i dont think there any need to have it sent to the shop for checking

[BleedsBlue]

B30 pistons in m50 (from M54)

The M50B25 and M54B30 are both 84mm bore.

S52 is 86mm, FWIW.

[kouks]

m50 is cast iron block right? if so i dont think there any need to have it sent to the shop for checking

Cracks? Warping? It was overheated not once, but twice.

[E38740iMD]

Cracks? Warping? It was overheated not once, but twice.

I don't think cast iron warps and cracks like that unless with an equal force. If I remember my Chem classes right. Cast iron breaks never bends so that eliminates the warping. And it would take alot of heat and pressure to crack cast iron. And a measly overheat shouldnt do that. But I can also be stood correct if others want to chime in

[Binjammin]

I don't think cast iron warps and cracks like that unless with an equal force. I'm I remember my Chem classes right. Cast iron reads never bends so that eliminates the warping. And it would take alot of heat and pressure to crack cast iron. And a measly overheat should do that. But I can also be stand correct if others want to chime in

Iron can warp, but it's far more resilient. OP, clean up the deck and check it with a calibrated straight edge and feeler gauges, but it should be fine.

[E38740iMD]

edited my previous post because the grammer was f'ed. should be more understandable

[kouks]

Shop called. Head only needs about .003-.005 inches off to fix slight warping. All valves seal good. No cracks. Amazing after two overheats, one where my daughter drove it over a mile while it was cooking so she could get home. The M50/52 sure is a bulletproof machine.

Asked about a complete valve job, $729. Don't really want to pay that much.

After 240,000 miles I'm wondering about the valve guides and seals. Engine compression was still good when it ran but it did start to burn a bit of oil. Valves looked clean from above so I don't think the seals are gone.

When is a complete valve job appropriate?

[Binjammin]

When is a complete valve job appropriate?

When you care enough to spend $729 to save on $100 worth of oil a year.

[kouks]

When you care enough to spend $729 to save on $100 worth of oil a year.

Again, Ben with the wisdom. Nice.

[kouks]

Removed power steering pump, oil filter bracket, AC compressor, and tried to remove the Jesus lot without the pipe on the breaker bar...nope. Need to go to Home Depot and get one tomorrow. Going s bit slow cause my wife's Burb also needs front end suspension work and new tires. Always come down to money...

[locknload]

How much oil does it take to foul the cats, though? If you have to deal with emissions testing, wouldn't an oil burner may be problematic?

Your head gasket set will come with new valve seals. Why not just get yourself a valve spring tool and some valve lapping compound and the $2 suction cup tool and do your own valve job? Shouldn't take more than a day.

[Old525i]

I have a valve spring compressor I used once on my M20, if you need some help.

[Binjammin]

How much oil does it take to foul the cats, though? If you have to deal with emissions testing, wouldn't an oil burner may be problematic?

Your head gasket set will come with new valve seals. Why not just get yourself a valve spring tool and some valve lapping compound and the $2 suction cup tool and do your own valve job? Shouldn't take more than a day.

If by foul you mean clog, that wont happen. If you mean burn in the exhaust and cause the cat to melt? It takes a lot, more than a puff on cold start and the slightly increased loss of oil while running.

DIY is very inexpensive and pretty easy, and OP has the patience and skill to do it, but lapping valves and a valve job are two different things man.

- - - Updated - - -

On top of that, lapping valves wont solve worn guides.

[locknload]

Yah, I agree. Lapping would just help seat the valves a little better and possibly restore some compression. Once the valves are free, though he can see if any wobble enough to be out of spec. Even then, I think you can still have the offending guides knurled (or replaced) to get them back in spec. without having to wholesale replace all the guides.

[kouks]

I'm not sure what lapping valve entails or what it means but just replacing the seals would be of interest. However, I'm afraid of not leaving well enough alone. The shop said all the valves seal properly and during a conversation about the seals and guides the owner told me to be careful if I do it since if a piece of carbon came loose and got between the valve and the head I would need a full valve job. Not exactly sure what he was talking about but I think he was trying to say the valve would not be centered any more and require reseating. I'd like to replace the seals, but not if its a risk of a $700+ job.

Today I removed the Jesus bolt and spent about 3 hours cleaning the block surface and Pistons.



Upon close inspection of cyl 1 and 6 I saw what appears to maybe be corrosion or some other sort of imperfection below the piston ring line. I could barely feel them with my nails but the texture was certainly not as smooth as the rest of the cylinder wall. Cyl 2-5 did not have this. I assume that 1 and 6 is where the gasket was failing and may have allowed coolant in, maybe causing this imperfection. Opinions on this?