Fuel Tank Question

[icbmfixer]

Got a question I probably don't want the answer to. I recently had to change the fuel pump on my '01 325XI. Everything was straight forward when I replaced the pump and sending unit. However, I went and filled up my car and had a fairly significant leak from the tank. After I risked life and limb driving the car back to my house and parking it in the garage (I like putting all my worldly possessions at risk at one time), I found the white ring attached to the fuel tank cracked in half. This is the threaded ring the fuel pump locking ring screws down on to and holds and seals the fuel pump to/in the tank. After a significant time researching the internet, calling an indy, and the dealer, I'm being told it is part of the tank and isn't sold separately. I was wondering if anyone has run across an option for replacing it or if it can only be repaired/replaced with a new tank.

[arches2012]

i would clean it very well ,clue it back together with JB weld or something similar,repl.the gasket around the fuel pump and don,t over tighten it.
if the fuel tank itself is not broken where the ring fits on, it should work,just an idea !!

[SilverSaloon69]

Here is the part number for that screw top. 16116762417 BMW needs competant employees. I think they hire A-holes on purpose!!

[icbmfixer]

Appreciate the part number, but that is for the lock ring. I'm looking for the plastic threaded white ring on the fuel tank the lock ring screw on to.

[SilverSaloon69]

Sorry, I should have carefully read your post. It looks like you will need to repair yours, or install a new fuel tank. There might be a fuel safe epoxy that might work. Hope it works out.

[Critter7r]

or get a tank from a salvage yard and just transfer the part, (as opposed to just using the junk tank, since you don't know how clean the inside of the junk tank is).

[icbmfixer]

I've got a pretty decent indy shop here in Ft Collins. They are helping me look at a safe, effective repair before going straight to the tank replacement. I'm searching the local area for an old tank that I can try and remove the ring. Also looking at a repair solution that will work on old, brittle plastic. I'll update any success I have with this.

[icbmfixer]

Just wanted to update the thread. I got some time this morning to take a good look at the broken ring and decided to try a few things to repair it. I had some two part epoxy and was looking at trying superglue and baking soda to bond it back together. As I prepared/cleaned the plastic ring for repair, I went back to the tank and realized if I repaired the ring off the tank I would break it again trying to fit it back on the tank flange. The inside of the ring is grooved and slides over the flange and catches on a lip. I took the broken ring put it back on the tank and discovered it held in place very well but the gap at the broken spot was to wide to epoxy/glue. However, I was able to use wire to wrap around and tighten the ring to the flange. When I did this, I decided to try and screw the lock ring down on it. Unbelievably, the lock ring tightened fully. I put the pump back in and ensured the tank seal was properly installed. I used more wire to tighten the broken ring and got the lock ring started and removed the wire and was able tighten the fuel pump completely down. Got the car started and aggressively drove it around to really get the fuel sloshing in the tank. No issues or leaks. Took the car and filled it up. No problems so far and have kept a close look on the tank and the garage floor. So far, so good. Only wish I had thought about taking pictures while I was working. I'll update if I run into any problems.

[cheapthrills]

This is good info.

So it sounds like you carefully seated the lock ring onto the broken white ring, and got it to thread in and tighten, holding the snapped portion of the white ring together. It makes sense that things are sealed okay, since the white ring isn't sealing anything, just allowing the lock ring to be pulled against the plastic tank through the rubber gasket.

I guess my main question is how was it leaking in the first place? Was the lock ring cross-threaded on the white ring? Had the white ring become unseated from the lip of the tank? I'd be slightly weary that it might happen again. I know I would be driving around with the rear seat and access panel off all the time for weeks, constantly checking for any signs of leakage.

[Critter7r]

Necessity really is the mother of invention.

[icbmfixer]

After carefully looking at it, I came to the same conclusion. Cross-threaded lock ring. I'm pretty sure it allowed the fuel pump to rise up out of the tank and leak fuel.

[icbmfixer]

Your spot on about watching for a leak. I was little nervous after I filled the tank. I've put some paper towel around the area to verify the pump is sealed. I'll give it a few weeks before I quit worrying about it.

[BoydhomeAZ]

I know this is an old thread but I ran into this recently. My 325i was leaking fuel so I investigated the leak by removing the two access covers that are located under the rear seat. The rear seat simply pops off by pulling up on the forward lower edge of the seat. Once the fuel pump on the passenger side and the fuel filter/regulator on the drivers side were visible, I started the car. My fuel leak was very visible as fuel was squirting out of a crack in the top of the plastic regulator on the drivers side. Be ready to shut off the car because the squirting of the fuel can make a mess and the smell is hard to get rid of. After the problem part was identified, I ordered the regulator online and picked it up through will call since the company I used was local to the Phoenix, AZ area. After getting the part which we lovingly named "Squidward" since it has several hoses and it looked like the squid cartoon character, My wife and I tackled the removal of the old unit. Honestly, the removal was not that bad. I watched a video of a guy that recommended to rent a fuel pump tool kit from one of the bigger named auto retailer. The tool is a must in my opinion because beating up the plastic under the retaining nut will screw up your day. Even after getting the proper tool, the plastic white ring under the metal nut was cracked on my car. The ring looked too small for the fuel tank neck and the crack was opened about 0.200 inch. We searched the web for a replacement but this part doesn't seem to be available without buying the expensive tank. I was able to find a BMW motorcycle part that looks like it is the same part so I ordered two of them. The PN is listed on ECS tuning but I have not received them yet to verify they are correct. In the mean time I studied the cracked part and the metal retaining ring. The metal ring tightens down onto the white ring and clamps the pump or regulator down onto a rubber oring/packing/gasket to seal the tank. I learned that if you take the cracked ring off the tank, then screw it into the metal ring (Looks like a mason jar lid!) then screw the metal ring with the plastic ring already in it to the tank. I did find some RTV or goop that needed to be removed before doing this but it worked very well. The cracked ring cannot come loose because it is retained in the metal ring. I will re-install the new plastic tank ring if the one I ordered is correct or if I find this part through some other source. Please let me know of the correct BMW part number if anyone has it. Here are the rings I ordered through ECS tuning but please verify that they are the right diameter by calling them. I took a chance and ordered them...hope I am right!
Mfg Part #16141182903 16-14-1-182-903, 16 14 1 182 903, ECS Part #ES#241818

[Jackson42]

The plastic ring, which is not sourced separately, CAN be removed from an old tank and moved to yours. It takes patience at least and a special tool at best. I know - I ran into exactly the same problem during a fuel pump change on my wife's Sport Wagon. I built a special tool. The catch, quite literally, is that there is a tab on the ring that slips into a notch in the tank when it gets to its final resting position. If you've got the tank out, then just replace it, rings and all, and don't subject yourself to the pain I went through

[BoydhomeAZ]

The below BMW part number came in the other day. As mentioned before, I was not sure if this was the right part when I ordered it. I could not find any cross reference that linked this part to my car but it looked like the part that was cracked on my tank when I replaced the drivers side fuel pressure regulator. It is the correct ring to replace my BMW 325i fuel tank ring. I bought two of them in case I need to go back and replace the fuel pump or have any other need to access the fuel tank. Hope this helps someone because replacing the tank is very expensive and time consuming. To install, simply thread the new plastic ring into the metal thread ring first, then install both the plastic and the metal ring together. I goofed up and had the oring packing in between the two rings and I ruined it. Just leave the oring off, install the two rings together, then remove the metal ring to allow for the oring installation with the new pump or regulator. Basically the metal ring provides support for the plastic ring when installing. Hope this helps someone!

Here is the ECS tuning part number once again:

Mfg Part #16141182903, 16-14-1-182-903, 16 14 1 182 903, ECS Part #ES#241818

[Eaglesail]

I replaced last week my main fuel pump (passenger side) also replaced the filter-reg. I have an 03 e46 xi wagon. After much pain turning and removing the metal screw ring, the 'white plastic ring' that the metal ring screws into atop the tank was broken apart by a single split. I completed the install in spite of the white ring being broken. I did replace new the seal, a blue silicone-rubber like seal. I found that one needs to put the new seal on the pump first, not on the fuel tank first. Mine doesn't leak, in spite of the broken white plastic ring. The plastic ring is there for the metal ring-screw...together they apply equal 'push-down pressure' for the vdo pump to maintain the seal....It really doesn't matter if the white plastic ring has a split as it by it's self isn't there to make a seal.

[jmo69]

I replaced last week my main fuel pump (passenger side) also replaced the filter-reg. I have an 03 e46 xi wagon. After much pain turning and removing the metal screw ring, the 'white plastic ring' that the metal ring screws into atop the tank was broken apart by a single split. I completed the install in spite of the white ring being broken. I did replace new the seal, a blue silicone-rubber like seal. I found that one needs to put the new seal on the pump first, not on the fuel tank first. Mine doesn't leak, in spite of the broken white plastic ring. The plastic ring is there for the metal ring-screw...together they apply equal 'push-down pressure' for the vdo pump to maintain the seal....It really doesn't matter if the white plastic ring has a split as it by it's self isn't there to make a seal.

You must have a different setup than everyone else, the seal went on the tank before I put my pump in.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jmo69]

My fuel leak was very visible as fuel was squirting out of a crack in the top of the plastic regulator on the drivers side.

That isn't the fuel pressure regulator, it's just a pump to transfer fuel from the left side of the tank to the right side. Your leak was probably caused by a rodent chewing on it, that's what happened to me.

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[Bimmerwman]

I am trying the repair today with a large hose clamp, jb weld, and a flat bladed screwdriver. I put some jb weld in the crack, placed some paper around it and tightened the hose clamp until it would barely fit over the threads. Then I took the screwdriver and wedged it between the clamp and the threads to create enough tension to pull in the crack. I am waiting for it to harden now and hoping for the best. Thanks everyone!!

[kingdanny3]

Just wanted to update the thread. I got some time this morning to take a good look at the broken ring and decided to try a few things to repair it. I had some two part epoxy and was looking at trying superglue and baking soda to bond it back together. As I prepared/cleaned the plastic ring for repair, I went back to the tank and realized if I repaired the ring off the tank I would break it again trying to fit it back on the tank flange. The inside of the ring is grooved and slides over the flange and catches on a lip. I took the broken ring put it back on the tank and discovered it held in place very well but the gap at the broken spot was to wide to epoxy/glue. However, I was able to use wire to wrap around and tighten the ring to the flange. When I did this, I decided to try and screw the lock ring down on it. Unbelievably, the lock ring tightened fully. I put the pump back in and ensured the tank seal was properly installed. I used more wire to tighten the broken ring and got the lock ring started and removed the wire and was able tighten the fuel pump completely down. Got the car started and aggressively drove it around to really get the fuel sloshing in the tank. No issues or leaks. Took the car and filled it up. No problems so far and have kept a close look on the tank and the garage floor. So far, so good. Only wish I had thought about taking pictures while I was working. I'll update if I run into any problems.

could u help me out with trying to piece my broken screw cap

[kingdanny3]

The below BMW part number came in the other day. As mentioned before, I was not sure if this was the right part when I ordered it. I could not find any cross reference that linked this part to my car but it looked like the part that was cracked on my tank when I replaced the drivers side fuel pressure regulator. It is the correct ring to replace my BMW 325i fuel tank ring. I bought two of them in case I need to go back and replace the fuel pump or have any other need to access the fuel tank. Hope this helps someone because replacing the tank is very expensive and time consuming. To install, simply thread the new plastic ring into the metal thread ring first, then install both the plastic and the metal ring together. I goofed up and had the oring packing in between the two rings and I ruined it. Just leave the oring off, install the two rings together, then remove the metal ring to allow for the oring installation with the new pump or regulator. Basically the metal ring provides support for the plastic ring when installing. Hope this helps someone!

Here is the ECS tuning part number once again:

Mfg Part #16141182903, 16-14-1-182-903, 16 14 1 182 903, ECS Part #ES#241818

i plan on ordering the piece you posted however i wanted to know if your car was a e90 since mine cracked while replacing the fuel pump and pressure regulator.