I have 90,000 miles and am in need of a new clutch. It's been slipping under hard shifting for the past few months.
My options seem to be:
1) Sachs OEM clutch $244
2) Sachs Sport clutch $694
3) Clutchmaster Stage 1 $665
4) UUC Stage 2 flywheel w/ $818
M5/E34 clutch
Any recommendations. My car is stock, but I drive it hard at times. I would probably cry if I put the OEM in it and had slipping problems again.
Thanks,
Pete
Last edited by pw455; 06-04-2004 at 08:47 PM. Reason: changed scope
you can always just resurface the flywheel as long as it's within tolerances. It'll cost you all of 40 bucks to do the machine work.
I edited the original post, but it didn't bump it to the beginning.
Any recommendations?
m5/E34 clutch seems to be a popular choice and is cost effective.
If i remember correctly you can't resurface a dual-mass flywheel like ours.
most say that a replacement OEM clutch is sufficient enough but for future modding or just reassurance of a non slipping clutch you might want to go with the Sachs HD/sport clutch or the UUC/m5 combo.....you should check out Spec Clutches too
Dinan supercharged
Clutchmasters stage one isnt that expensive. You can get them for under $550
just get the stock clutch, no need to buy too much clutch. My clutch is dead, and i'm just going to replace it with a stock one.
Sean
Yea just get a stock one. No need to put other bmw parts on your car that were not made for your car if it is all stock. If your clutch is slipping for over a month now you will probably need a new flywheel also. They tend to get messed up if your clutch is slipping. I would go with a light weight flywheel. I don’t know the brands that much just do a search for them and read on what one is the best for the money.
I've also been told that a dual-mass flywheel cannot be machined. Seems that I've read of folks who say they have.
So, if anyone out there has had a stock flywheel resurfaced, I'd like to know about it. How much $$$$? Was it necessary to disassemble the flywheel? Were the results good?
As far as clutch replacement, unless you are going FI or want to drag race, the stock Sachs should do fine for you. But, if your factory flywheel is scorched and has hot spots, your new clutch won't help for very long. Ask me how I know.
So, if it's not possible to resurface the factory flywheel and you have to replace it, it's just as cheap, or cheaper, to buy an aluminum wheel. Unless you get a dual-mass that's used. Used ones may be just as bad as yours. You have to be careful.
I opted for the UUC Stage II aluminum flywheel and a Spec Stage I clutch.
Jay
From wannabe to has been in a few short years..... the older I get, the faster I was
Thanks for the replies.
How many of you with stock clutches drive/shift them real hard and are satisfied with the grab? I want something that will perform when I need it to.
Based on the comments so far, I'm leaning towards one of the following:
A) If the flywheel looks OK, I'll probably stick with the stock Sachs clutch.
B) If the flywheel looks bad and it can't be resurfaced, I'll probably go with the UUC Stage 2 / M5 setup since the clutch isn't a whole lot more.
Jay: I've also read mixed comments about it's machinability and would like to know if anyone has had it done with good results.
Mbanks21: After some searching, I found the Clutchmaster clutch $564 at Montanamadeproducts.com.
Pete
Bump. I am in the same position. Does anyone have any experience with the Clutchmaster Stage 1? How does it compare to stock?
I am also in the same position. Help please? Thanks!
If you drive semi-hard and sometimes drag race is stock enough? Which one will also last longer?
I wouldn't deal with clutchmaster. Never heard one good thing about them.
As other people said, unless your going FI, the stock clutch will grip more than you will ever need it. The clutch is one of the last thing you should be worrying about.
-Chris
What if say you had a beefed up NA engine like having the JC Cam Kit and all of the other bolt-ons where you'd be pushing close to 300hp at the flywheel. Would the stock clutch still be okay or would you need to get something like the Sachs Sport clutch (or better)?
'95 Alpine White M3 (R.I.P., Flooded) - ZKW Ellipsoids w/ 5000K HIDs, Euro Clears All Around, Bilstein Sports w/ H&R OE Sport Springs, BMW X-Brace, <br>UUC SwayBarbarians, Active Autowerke Front Strut Tower Brace, 96+ RTABs w/ GC Shims, E46 M3 RSMs/M-Roadster Plates, 3.38 LSD, LTW Polished Staggered M Wheels.
yes
just get the stock clutch, no need to buy too much clutch. My clutch is dead, and i'm just going to replace it with a stock one.Yea just get a stock one.As far as clutch replacement, unless you are going FI or want to drag race, the stock Sachs should do fine for you. But, if your factory flywheel is scorched and has hot spots, your new clutch won't help for very long. Ask me how I know.As other people said, unless your going FI, the stock clutch will grip more than you will ever need it. The clutch is one of the last thing you should be worrying about.
Originally Posted by bejita
-Chris
Bookmarks