I have this same oil pressure problem. Could you tell me if these oil spray nozzles can be removed through the pan without removing the crankshaft or is it time for a lower end rebuild?
I fixed my problem (which I posted about years ago earlier in this thread) by the replacing the oil pressure switch (with OEM) and the fan clutch/fan. No oil pressure light since then and that was over two years ago. Try these two things, which will take you an afternoon, before you go nuts cracking open the bottom end.
Thanks for the info. I have already tried the oil pressure switch. I'm not sure what the fan clutch would do........I don't seem to be having any overheating problems.
I did read the entire post. I have tried the orings and the seal on the filter housing bolt (mentioned in post #15) and the dip stick tube with no help. The only things I have not tried is:
1) The oil nozzles inside the block
2) Maybe the nut on the oil pump is starting to get loose?
3) Oil pickup tube clogged or damaged?
3) The fan clutch (could that cause this problem?)
4) Changing the idle speed
5) Changing the oil viscosity
6) I also have not verified what the oil pressure is when hot...........I have ordered a fitting to adapt to the oil pressure switch location so I can add a gage but with this lock down it's taking forever to get here.
So I'm thinking after I try a couple of the items above, it's time to remove the pan and see what I can find.
It does. I will order parts today and give it a try. Thanks for the info.
Ok, I tried the fan clutch with no help. Every time I get the engine hot, the oil pressure light and "STOP LOW OIL PRESSURE" message comes on. The idle RPM is about 800. Just a quick hit on the throttle makes the light and message go away.
One thing new I noticed though, as I was shutting the engine down, i also got the CHECK OIL LEVEL message even though the oil level on the dip stick is good. Any ideas?
How many miles on the engine? Even though we hear of a S52 making it to 300k and beyond...
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
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WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
Just dealt with an issue like this and it was a clogged oil filter. And this was after I dropped the oil pan. Checked oil pump, pick up tube, and oil filter housing. Take out oil filter and then turn it on and see if problem goes away. Put an OEM filter and see if problem persists.
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It has right at 200k miles. This engine is in a 2002 530i (m54 engine). I changed the oil filter while I was changing the o-rings on the filter. That also was no help. I read in another post that someone fixed their problem by replacing the vanos seals. I think I'll try that next before I remove the oil pan.
Install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what the pressure actually is.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
There is a chance that it's a clogged oil filter, but that would only a contributing factor. The oil filter housing has a bypass valve to allow oil to flow around a clogged filter. It's hidden under one of the T-70 plugs on the housing. There is no documentation about what the bypass pressure is set at, but it's likely only a few PSI pressure drop. If that's enough drop to trigger the pressure switch, you still have an underlying problem.
The 'CHECK OIL LEVEL' message is probably unrelated. You should check the oil dipstick. If the level is OK, it's just the normal level sensor flakiness from residue on the probe. You can swap the sensor or attempt to clean it with solvent the next time you change your oil.
If putting in a new pressure switch doesn't fix the problem, a pressure gauge is the next step.
BTW, do a quick check that the two tiny o-rings at the bottom of the oil filter cap are intact. If the plug is broken off or the lower o-ring is missing, pressurized oil will return directly to the oil pan.
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