Going with the CES reinforced subframe and diff conversion.....my diffsonline 2.93 diff will be for sale shortly if interested!
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Last month we welded the adapter plate onto my subframe and put a 3.15 210mm diff into it. I may rebuild the diff to a 2.93 next winter.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
More for relaxed highway driving with the 5 speed and I don't think I would lose much on acceleration given the power level. I was at about 135 in the quarter at around 575 rwhp. Even with another 100 rwhp, I probably won't do much better than 140, so the 3.15 would just make it.
Instructed in a car with them. They're definitely a 140 TW street tire. A 100 TW NT01 is another noticeable step up in grip.
Maybe they're a tiny tiny fraction faster than a Star Spec/RS3, but they're definitely comparable in that you're probably talking maybe a tenth or three per lap when the setup suits both tires, not 1 sec+ lap that you'll get with an R-comp.
Any interest in running a full slick on a 17" rim? Will definitely help save the drive line. http://www.mandhtires.com/M-H-Racema...0#.VSCQW5HD-Ba
Yeah, I wouldn't hit the streets with full slicks.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
wouldn't the race logic traction system help out?? if a person wasn't looking to run slicks
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
the internet can be a painful place.. ive read that a few guys have gone faster with the race logic (one guy with a 300zx said he cut a whole second off his 1/4 time with it on)
in my situation I will street racing but staying on a street tire.. so theoretically with the race logic one would have a perfect lunch every time. you aint winning if you spinning but I just don't know..
Let's use 1/4 for instance. The key is to build a car with lots of power , and put the power down. This is done by suspension and proper tires. By using race logic in the 1/4 your cutting power to put it down when you should be increasing tire/suspension. Yes you might not spin, but your not putting down all your power.
A properly heated drag tire on a track will stick like glue, you will get full traction in first gear. Again.....a .properly sized, quality, heated drag tire. You need to do a long 2nd gear burnout till you see smoke. Then hold on.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
traction control is a slippery slope. Like Butters said, its best to put the power down. I use it in my Megasquirt, so i can only comment on that, but if you have it setup correctly, it really does help.
For example, before i had the TC working, you would have to pedal the car. When you factor in human error, it sucks. You go no where. Doing nothing but playing with TC, i can now just leave the pedal to the floor (with in reason), and the system will progressively cut power to maintain or regain traction.
You combine that with a good tire, and it works very very well. But its basically just a bandaid for an overzealous driver/poor traction/car not setup properly.
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
You CAN accelerate quicker with a properly set up TC, though. There is a certain range of slip (5-10% depending) that you can achieve greater acceleration than full traction. However, the main advantage of traction control is that it is able to respond faster than your foot. The fact that it can keep it in that slip range is a bonus.
But I agree with butters, go with the best tire you can manage, and then go for traction control if it's not enough.
I would like a race logic for the street, but would shut it off at the track.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
It will only help at the track, why would you turn it off?
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
As for tire I'll be running an 255/40/17 nt05. My car never really had a traction problem but im downsizing in turbo (6266 t4 .81) adding meth a few other driveline goodies
as for the tc would help for the anticipation of the new found torque.. On the track I wouldn't use it but when street racing yes.
typically speaking, you wouldnt ever really need it at the track with the right tire.
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
You can tell when Racelogic is doing its thing and then you just lift slightly until you can't feel the Racelogic. It trains you to adjust the throttle accordingly.
Sent from my GTX3582R
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
I run a 235/40/17 on my ti. My nitto's were the same size and didn't rub but with the federals they rub a bit.
I think this year however I'm going to get my first set of drag radials for when I want to do science experiments with locals. Spinning was fun for awhile but it's getting old.
Spinnin ain't winnin fam
Bookmarks