I've seen all the threads on this. Hooked up INPA and got the P160F error code - which seems to be nowhere on the internet except here
I'm going to go through the usual steps of checking the source for the battery drain- but I just want to find out if I can eliminate the IBS as a source of the problem based on the error code.
I think that something is waking up the beast at various intervals - I suspect that it is somehow an interaction with our cell phones via bluetooth even though the car is shut down. Both phones are on all the time and located within 10 feet of the car. The simple test is to just shut them off at night.
For the gurus here:
1. Can I eliminate the IBS out of hand due to the error code P160F?
2. Would a bluetooth device wake the car up (say with receipt of an email etc) if it was in close proximity?
Thanks very much for any info and/or insight.
Hey gmak,
I have had the same battery drain issue, im assuming you do not leave anything in the power outlets, anyway had the same issue disconected the ibs and didn't get the message since!
You can give it a try.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ta0anFAeU2Q
I've 'proven' that it's not the bluetooth. I'm going to go through procédure to isolate which devices, starting with measuring the mAmps when it's asleep (ammeter between the ground pole and the cable) and see what I get. If it's high, I'm going to start pulling fuses. If it's the IBS, I'm going to get one of the newer ones that don't fall apart with a little moisture (doesn't it rain in Germany?)
My last ressort will be to disconnect the IBS like the video shows,
Well, they came back. I've just disconnected the IBS... die stupid device, die.
I would also like 5 minutes alone with a baseball bat and the idiot who decided to get rid of the oil dipstick while putting in an oil level sensor that goes crazy when visited by condensation. Don't they have winter in Germany? Clowns! [This after adding a quart because the computer says so, thinking better and checking here to find out about the oil sensor problem; then, removing that same quart with a mityvac (Put a valve on the oil pan a year or two ago) to see that the computer says "all good, oil at max". Go for a drive after - stuck in traffic and get same 'low oil' message. ignore it. go for a romp on the highway later, and oil is at max. Hence the yearning for a baseball bat, 5 minutes and the decision clown]
[sorry for the rant - my pet peeve is using electronics and computers to replace a perfectly good manual system. Case in point the dip stick.]
Last edited by gmak; 05-17-2015 at 08:38 AM.
In the end, this turned out to be the comfort access module for the rear passenger door. I bought a used module and replaced it. Problem solved. Cheers.
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
Is there an aftermarket thing that you can install a dipstick to check oil level the old way?
BTW, you still haven't made an intro thread about your new monster!
I'll start a thread once I get the 528i squared away and up for sale. Then, I have to get the 7K springs and bearing in the coilovers on the 540i and check the front brakes and 'arms' to get rid of the clunk (I think that it's brake related). Then, I have to do gaskets etc on the 530xi. In the meantime, I have to get the Eisenmann race axle-back exhaust off of the M5, sell it. Get the old tires off of the M5 rims. Sell them.
Then I'll start my thread. OK?
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
Completely unacceptable. Where the heck are your priorities, man?
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
hey guys - what is a good (mid range) $ wise but good OBD tool to get a separate unit for ABS ?
i'm new to e60 (have a few e30's & e28's) - so i know i need a good OBC tool suggestions ?
& i agree WTFreak ? no oil or trans dip sticks ? WTF ??? come on BMW ur kidding right ?
what brand & model of code reader are u using ?
I use INPA and / or Reinhold. IIRC, I went into the CAS module with INPA and found an error code.
To prove that the CAS module was bad (and which one), I did the following.
1. Remove the CAS fuse to see if the Battery Drain warning went away. It did. Put the fuse back.
2. Go try the comfort access on all the doors to find the one that was having problems = didn't open or close the first time.
3. Replace the Module on that door. I bought a used one from a 2008 or 2010, don't remember which.
4. Run the car for 2 weeks with no issues = found it!
Last edited by gmak; 05-21-2016 at 05:08 PM.
gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i
"Working on a BMW E39 is the best way to run out of time."
For those who don't have INPA or ISTA, you also have the option to use Carista, which is a mobile app that I made. Diagnostics with it are a lot simpler and you don't have to carry around a laptop
I've had the same issue and have sent my vehicle multiple times to be fixed at bmw. I have an m5 08 and it appears there was a class action suit just finished called Catalina v. BMW LLc and BMW AG. Ive spent multiple $ trying to fix the issue
- - - Updated - - -
how can you make bmw fix the issue since it has to do with the make of the car. I know a class suit was just settled and should be in effect
- - - Updated - - -
The damage occurs from the make of the vehicle and the location of the modules in the tire well.
- - - Updated - - -
If anyone has any more info. than I have like what to do if you weren't notified in time to get in on the class action, please let me know because I can't even get a call back from BMW as is.I feel like everyone thinks Im from Mars or something
Bookmarks