S54 Bearing Recall - New Info

[f50nut]

Did you get that in writing? could you send me a copy!?! Are they making you do the repair at the BMW dealer? I would, but I honestly dont trust my BMW dealer to do it well, I think I can do it better, although it will take me longer... Hey Randy, selling any old bearing shells?

I didn't get it in writing but I'm confident I'll get the parts cheap. I can scan and send you the parts receipt when I get it. I'm going to an independent shop, I don't trust the dealer techs either.

[f50nut]

In that case, you're as good as gold, speaking from experience of what I've seen...

That's crazy. How many miles on that one?

[Bcar]

sweet. What are they charging you for the swap if you dont mind me asking? Ive been thinking about doing it myself after reading a few DIYs. Doesnt seem too hard at all, just time consuming. could get it done in a weekened im thinking.
I have someone at BMW that can get me parts cheap, so im not worried about that part.

[f50nut]

sweet. What are they charging you for the swap if you dont mind me asking? Ive been thinking about doing it myself after reading a few DIYs. Doesnt seem too hard at all, just time consuming. could get it done in a weekened im thinking.
I have someone at BMW that can get me parts cheap, so im not worried about that part.

I got quotes from several shops in the area and everyone came in around $1000-$1100 in labor not including parts. Not exactly cheap but it's understandable.

If you feel like doing it yourself I say go for it. The nice thing about going to a shop for engine work like this is it usually comes with a 2 year warranty, which is nice insurance if the motor hand grenades after a week

[DimrBimmer]

I am about to become an owner of 2001 z3 M roadster with s54 and 54k miles. This thread sends shivers... previous owner was an older gent who bought it for fun from another guy who supposedly took real good cear of the car. Unfortunately he has no idea of rod bearings where replaced. So, I am up for preventative measures. Anyone knows of a shop northeast (NY metro - Long Island) that would be willing to replace these? I would love to drive it down to Randys shop in SW Florida if it still standing after all the natural disasters, but would like to see if there is any options available nearby. Funny enough, I did not actually buy the car yet. Just put small downpaiment on it while hiring expert to check before I fly up and pick it up (it's in another state).
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[MartyBtoo]

I wouldn't overthink this issue too much. My S54 now has 92K miles on the original bearings, and has had 5K changes of Castrol 10-60 since new. I send oil samples for analysis each time, and there has been no signs of bearing material in any of them.

There also hasn't been any signs of welds breaking in the rear suspension either!

Marty

[BimmerBreaker]

150K+ on original bearings here

Rod bearings are not a "when" but an "if" issue. I change my oil regularly and get blackstone analysis done. It does a pretty good job at telling you the health of your engine. Besides, 54k miles is pretty low...

I'd be more worried about the subframe than rod bearings. Rod bearings are a DIY job - a lengthy one, but one most decent mechanics can do with the right tools and a lot of patience. I can't weld for crap though so the subframe scares me

[ProductUser]

150K+ on original bearings here

I can't weld for crap though so the subframe scares me

I can help with the subframe prep if needed (my lower back has recovered from my subframe repair). You can then tow it to Cliff's in Mesa for the welding.

[Mr Bingley]

Since I don't have an S54 I'll hold my tongue, other than to say that all the oil analysis in the world will not predict a failure of the bearing tab manufacture that causes the bearing to spin at rpm's just above or at redline, and, once it spins at redline, there is no rebuilding that motor.

[DimrBimmer]

I haven't come across this topic, but has anyone thought about using oil additives? Like bestline or xtreme green? I am no mechanic, but some video reviews look pretty good.

[Randy Forbes]

I haven't come across this topic, but has anyone thought about using oil additives? Like bestline or xtreme green? I am no mechanic, but some video reviews look pretty good.

This topic is nearly twenty years old__fully >17 <18 yrs__and quite a number of us who are mechanics have been aware and dealing with it that long.

So in the most polite way I can convey, the answer is no.

[BimmerBreaker]

This topic is nearly twenty years old__fully >17 <18 yrs__and quite a number of us who are mechanics have been aware and dealing with it that long.

So in the most polite way I can convey, the answer is no.

Yeah but you are also the kind of guy who does a head gasket job and wastes time removing the head, having it checked and decking it while installing a new head gasket instead of just using head gasket sealer from Autozone...

[DimrBimmer]

Oh boy, sound like I touched sore subject there... no disrespect to anyone. I am simply trying to prolong the life of an engine. Figured there some new stuff out. Saw videos with what appear reputable mechanics doing test with and without the additive and seems like it can handle more pressure and heat. Obviously, I don't know about long term effects.

[Mr Bingley]

The issue with the S54 bearings is not that they wear out, and so oil additives cannot help. The S54 bearing problem is that BMW sourced its original bearings from a manufacturer who made a mistake, and did not manufacture the tang properly so as to secure the bearing properly in place in the cap. At high RPM (at or near redline), the tang is overcome, and the bearings spin causing catastrophic engine failure. BMW recognized this issue for the M3 and warranty replaced the bearings with properly manufactured bearings, but for the MZ3, because they had rev limited it below the M3 for marketing reasons, they refused to warranty the bearings, claiming the engine was rev limited below the spin threshold. This, of course, turned out not to be true. In any event, the issue is a manufacturing defect, not excessive wear, and this is why oil analysis and oil additives will not address the issue.

[DimrBimmer]

The issue with the S54 bearings is not that they wear out, and so oil additives cannot help. The S54 bearing problem is that BMW sourced its original bearings from a manufacturer who made a mistake, and did not manufacture the tang properly so as to secure the bearing properly in place in the cap. At high RPM (at or near redline), the tang is overcome, and the bearings spin causing catastrophic engine failure. BMW recognized this issue for the M3 and warranty replaced the bearings with properly manufactured bearings, but for the MZ3, because they had rev limited it below the M3 for marketing reasons, they refused to warranty the bearings, claiming the engine was rev limited below the spin threshold. This, of course, turned out not to be true. In any event, the issue is a manufacturing defect, not excessive wear, and this is why oil analysis and oil additives will not address the issue.

Thank you for clarification. Again, I am a newbie, so it's been helpful.

[rboehl]

The issue with the S54 bearings is not that they wear out, and so oil additives cannot help. The S54 bearing problem is that BMW sourced its original bearings from a manufacturer who made a mistake, and did not manufacture the tang properly so as to secure the bearing properly in place in the cap. At high RPM (at or near redline), the tang is overcome, and the bearings spin causing catastrophic engine failure. BMW recognized this issue for the M3 and warranty replaced the bearings with properly manufactured bearings, but for the MZ3, because they had rev limited it below the M3 for marketing reasons, they refused to warranty the bearings, claiming the engine was rev limited below the spin threshold. This, of course, turned out not to be true. In any event, the issue is a manufacturing defect, not excessive wear, and this is why oil analysis and oil additives will not address the issue.

That is why I never redline my motor, in fact I usually shift at 6k or so.
I also don`t use the very heavy 60w oil but that of course is another topic.
The engine in my roady was a rebuilt S54 that was put in before I bought it. it had spun a bearing about 44k miles.
When I got it had about 8k on the motor and now I have 83k and so far so good.

[DimrBimmer]

That is why I never redline my motor, in fact I usually shift at 6k or so.
I also don`t use the very heavy 60w oil but that of course is another topic.
The engine in my roady was a rebuilt S54 that was put in before I bought it. it had spun a bearing about 44k miles.
When I got it had about 8k on the motor and now I have 83k and so far so good.

So, question about spinning a bearing. If happens, is new motor the only way to go? Is it possible to just replace the rod itself and the bearings? Is concern here that amount of metal shrapnel in the engine, or engines actually go kaboom when it happens?

[rhitee93]

So, question about spinning a bearing. If happens, is new motor the only way to go? Is it possible to just replace the rod itself and the bearings? Is concern here that amount of metal shrapnel in the engine, or engines actually go kaboom when it happens?

I believe what he was referring to is that when a bearing "Spins", it can cause a lot of block damage. Spinning is a bit misleading because the heat generated eventually causes the parts to lock together. If you suddenly lock a rod end to a crank at high RPMs, there are a lot of unusual forces that get imparted to the block.

[rboehl]

My particular Z had a rod knocking. That is how it was listed in the BMW service receipt.

[BimmerBreaker]

My friend's S62 had some pretty awful condition rod bearings that caused a knock, three were spun, one of them very badly. The crank is forged - much much stronger than the bearings. Replaced the bearings, checked the crank, it was fine - plastigauged new bearings - they were right within spec. Still runs fine to this day. Rod bearings are the softest part of the piston rod/block/rod bearing cap system, if caught early the bearings can be replaced and the problem stops there. If you can DIY it, it's <$1000 in parts last I checked.

I know some S62 bearings are upgraded to have another hole drilled in them to allow for more oil to reach the rod bearing surface
Treated/coated bearings are also available for S54... not sure they are a "solution" but should help mitigate the problem

[Mr Bingley]

That is why I never redline my motor, in fact I usually shift at 6k or so.
I also don`t use the very heavy 60w oil but that of course is another topic.
The engine in my roady was a rebuilt S54 that was put in before I bought it. it had spun a bearing about 44k miles.
When I got it had about 8k on the motor and now I have 83k and so far so good.

This is, I think, a rational response; but then what is the point of the S54, as it produces its real power above 6000--significantly below that, and you're better off with an S52. Of course that's easy for me to say as I own two S52's and no S54's. I will say, however, that I really like my supercharged S52--all the power and peace of mind.

[Bobkid]

That is why I never redline my motor, in fact I usually shift at 6k or so.
I also don`t use the very heavy 60w oil but that of course is another topic.
The engine in my roady was a rebuilt S54 that was put in before I bought it. it had spun a bearing about 44k miles.
When I got it had about 8k on the motor and now I have 83k and so far so good.

I never worried about mine until I decided to track it more often, and that's when I had the bearings replaced preventatively at 136,000 miles. Now with a custom tune and bumping the rev limit to 8000 RPM, I hit 7900+ regularly and don't worry about it. If I ever get a failure, it was just meant to be as I'm not going to baby this thing and get less from it than it has to offer. It may end up being an expensive decision down the road, but the fun it's providing is more than worth it.

[BimmerBreaker]

If I want to shift at 6k I have an S52 to drive...

[E.Hands]

My turbo makes full boost under 3000 RPM. Then revs to 8100. Jus sayin...

[Randy Forbes]

My turbo makes full boost under 3000 RPM. Then revs to 8100. Jus sayin...

Didn't I do the polymer coated bearings on your car__before Maximum PSI got a hold of it?