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Thread: Turbo 6.0 E39

  1. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    Finally finished the center console & shifter surround. I went back and forth between using a manual trans boot or filling the gear indicator portion on the auto shifter plate and wrapping the plate in the same wrap as the wood grain. Ultimately the latter won out. It turned out really well.



    what shifter is this?

  2. #552
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    Quote Originally Posted by danieljames View Post
    You could set up a GoPro video on it just to watch it running for a few times. I know I'd watch that video

    Sent from my VK810 4G using Tapatalk
    Hahaha! I might do that just for the hell of it.

  3. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxBodyRacing View Post
    what shifter is this?
    Link to it on eBay.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/131536872641

  4. #554
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    e46
    Great news on the flange! Do you have the vendors info. Looks like I will be picking one up also.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

  5. #555
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480

    Turbo 6.0 E39

    The vendor I purchased it through is Bill Englewood Driveshafts phone # 303-781-0554.

    After merely hand sanding the outside diameter of the Sonnax flange to account for the .06 mm difference it fits perfectly inside the BMW flange. Absolutely no issue bolting it up with 10mmx1.5 x 50mm bolts.
    Last edited by unnatrl; 01-22-2017 at 06:13 PM.

  6. #556
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    does it have gates on it to stop at each gear or will it pull all the way from first to third?

  7. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxBodyRacing View Post
    does it have gates on it to stop at each gear or will it pull all the way from first to third?
    It has stops. You can only go from o/d to drive (or the other way) without pushing the button in the middle once you've selected drive or o/d. I don't like rolling into boost in o/d, so I pull the lever back into drive and hammer it. No worries about going into the lower gears unless you are really trying.

  8. #558
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    yeah I don't think that will work for me. I need to be able to shift quickly and easily without worrying about skipping a gear. ill have to make a B&M magnum work in there. that was a bad ass shifter. wont be as stealthy as what you have there but ill deal with it.

    thanks.

  9. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxBodyRacing View Post
    yeah I don't think that will work for me. I need to be able to shift quickly and easily without worrying about skipping a gear. ill have to make a B&M magnum work in there. that was a bad ass shifter. wont be as stealthy as what you have there but ill deal with it.

    thanks.
    No prob. I'm confident you will come up with an awesome solution.

  10. #560
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Chicago Burbs
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    e39 m5, 72 duster
    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    As usual, my mind has been contemplating a few things. The driveline in the car works ok, but I'm nervous that it won't be strong enough. Spending 250-300 dollars on a stock replacement "just in case" and then modifying it for the weld in slip yoke makes me think there is a better way. The center support bearing is the other thing I hate. The amount of play seems excessive. I can feel something moving around under hard accel. I know this is part of it. So far, I'm unable to locate a heavy duty CSB for the application. I've looked as DSS stuff, it's nice and expensive.

    Enter the brainstorming mission...

    I came across this flange made by Sonnax. It is specifically for newer Dodge products (Challenger/ Charger). The flange has a OD of 108mm and the bolt circle diameter is 94mm. I measured an extra BMW driveline outer flange at 108.35mm, bolt spacing at 93.51mm. The measurements are so close this is worth a try. According to Sonnax, they engineered this flange to hold up to 1400 hp. Sounds like a challenge!!

    I've neglected to say that the Sonnax flange uses a 1350 joint. This has been the crux of all driveline solutions I've looked at. I have an old school 4 bolt 210mm flange and the JTR adapter, but a 1310 to 1350 adapter joint isn't what I want. You can't find one that isn't drilled for the grease passages, which makes it a weaker joint.

    Also downloaded a frequency checking application to my phone. This will assist in deciding how long to make the Helmholtz resonator. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit. Swapping the ring and pinion in my old pickup last weekend wasn't fun. It was cold enough that the air tools were freezing. Using a small propane torch to melt the ice out of the tools was a new experience!

    Man, My driveshaft from thedriveshaftshop bolts right into my car. They have an adapter for the bmw diff, it was 500$ balanced to 9k RPM, good for 1000hp and 215mph. It is 3.5" aluminum which is a tight fit. I made a delrin bushing for the front diff mount with an offset bolt hole. Lowered the diff nose down, fixed the driveshaft angle that normally points at the CSB and now I have over an inch of clearance between the shaft and PB cables. I will throw some pics in my thread.

  11. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by get dustd View Post
    Man, My driveshaft from thedriveshaftshop bolts right into my car. They have an adapter for the bmw diff, it was 500$ balanced to 9k RPM, good for 1000hp and 215mph. It is 3.5" aluminum which is a tight fit. I made a delrin bushing for the front diff mount with an offset bolt hole. Lowered the diff nose down, fixed the driveshaft angle that normally points at the CSB and now I have over an inch of clearance between the shaft and PB cables. I will throw some pics in my thread.
    I did a 3.5" aluminum setup the first time around. It rubbed the ebrake cables to the point the driveline has grooves in it, of course only when driving. Is your car on the road? Haven't seen any updates!

    I also looked at the Driveshaftshop products. $500.00 is substantially less than what I was able to find on their website. Mine will end up being a 3" chromoly with a forged slip yoke for a total of ~$600.00. The differential flange is 7075 aluminum and will hold more power than the car will ever make.

    One other side note- the adapter bracket for the E32 differential is going to be revisited to adjust pinion and driveline angles. If you have an iPhone, the TREMEC app is really easy to use. It shows that the transmission angle is ok but the differential is a little high. The nose of the differential needs to go down a tiny bit. This equates to ebrake cable clearance.

  12. #562
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480

    Turbo 6.0 E39

    Haven't had a lot of time to work on the car recently, but did manage to get the driveline ordered from Strange. It should be here in about 10 days. Once it's installed, my adapter bracket will be revised to correct the pinion angle. The driveline is also holding up the planned exhaust revisions. I did compare the new pipe I picked up from Summit Racing (it's actually a Dodge diesel downpipe) to the piece that's getting replaced. The bends are remarkably close. The downpipe will work with minor modifications and trimming. This is to gain a small amount of much needed ground clearance. The fingers point to the minor differences that are visible when the 2 pipes are stacked on top of each other.
    Last edited by unnatrl; 01-30-2017 at 02:52 PM.

  13. #563
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    Almost as nice as the rear one! Still waiting for the new driveshaft. IMG_2197.JPG

  14. #564
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    2001 BMW 540i/6
    Love that Sonnax yoke! Pretty cool that it bolts up. Maybe I missed it, are you sticking with a 2 piece shaft or getting a bigger 1 piece?

    2001 BMW 560i 6.0 LSx/T56 SOLD


    2000 Corvette Hardtop FRC

  15. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsogiba View Post
    Love that Sonnax yoke! Pretty cool that it bolts up. Maybe I missed it, are you sticking with a 2 piece shaft or getting a bigger 1 piece?
    I'm going with a one piece. The 2 piece makes me nervous at the power level the car is at. I know several people have had some grief with a 3" diameter driveline in regard to rubbing brake cables. Mine is getting poly bushings on the diff mounts to keep the pinion rise to a minimum. I also did the E32 diff conversion and have found the pinion needs to be pointed down a little more than what the stock location allows in order to attain the optimal pinion, differential and driveline angles. This also makes a little more room to avoid rubbing brake cables. Nothing is worse than going through all this work and having a driveline vibration.

  16. #566
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480

    Turbo 6.0 E39

    Waiting for this driveline is driving me nuts! Supposed to be delivered Thursday. Fingers crossed...

    Started working on modifying the hvac control to trigger the a/c compressor when the snowflake button is pushed. I'm borrowing the knowledge listed in the E39 a/c thread. Had to order a smaller wattage soldering iron. I don't want to melt the led, just steal power from it. This should be fun, the working area is tiny. Waiting on that now.

    Also started researching about wheel hop- causes and solutions. It seems many other manufactures and aftermarket companies use a staggered axle diameter as one of the ways to help tame it. A 530i axle is larger in overall diameter than the 540i axles are. Has anyone else actually swapped to two different axles and have real world results?
    Last edited by unnatrl; 02-07-2017 at 10:41 PM.

  17. #567
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    let me know how your AC setup works out. I will be there shortly. gotta figure out how to wire it in.

  18. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxBodyRacing View Post
    let me know how your AC setup works out. I will be there shortly. gotta figure out how to wire it in.
    There will be a post detailing what I did to make it work. It's not really high on the list, but should be done before too long.

  19. #569
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    New shiny parts are a good thing! Strange forgot to include (2) of the u-joint clips though.

    I messed with the TREMEC app some more tonight. It appears there will be ample room for the e-brake cables to clear. I'm curious what angles people are seeing when the driveline rubs. I never thought to check mine before pulling the stock differential out. As it sits, my transmission is down about 1 degree to far. A really thin washer between the mount and the cross member should fix that. I will probably swap the Z8 rubber engine mounts in before any of his is finalized. You would have to expect something to change because of it.

  20. #570
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480

    Turbo 6.0 E39

    Worked on the driveline for a couple hours tonight. Getting these to an acceptable angle was a challenge. Ended up shimming the trans up about 1/2" and modified my original adapter bracket for the diff. It seems to have worked out. The brake cable clearance is acceptable as well. When the car is jacked up under the pinion flange I can still get a finger between the heat shield and the flange. The closest spot is in the trans tunnel. There shouldn't be much side to side play, so this should work out well.
    Last edited by unnatrl; 02-15-2017 at 12:38 PM.

  21. #571
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    It's been a busy couple weeks. Baby was born last Friday. I've been living vicariously through everyone else updating their threads while sitting at the hospital. Anyway, finally got to take the car out for a quick ride with the new driveline today. It feels good. No vibration up to 70 mph (as fast as I went). Not sure if the vibration that I was feeling under hard acceleration from a stop is gone, but the one good launch I did was encouraging.

    Also replaced the haggard a/c compressor. It was given to me years ago. It was time for an upgrade.

  22. #572
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480

    Turbo 6.0 E39

    Feedback on the new driveline setup is 100% positive. The vibration on accel from a dead stop or a low speed w.o.t. hit is completely gone. I'm really happy with the results.

    I previously mentioned a drone when driving at cruising speed. The Helmhotz resonator seemed like a reasonable solution. The only available space for more exhaust tubing was near the rear diff. By the calculations, a 26" long pipe is what was called for. Unfortunately, the drone didn't go away. The car sounds better as the exhaust note changed. I've decided to go back to my original idea of using a set of stock mufflers and a cutout. I didn't come to this decision lightly. The deciding factor was cutting out the center 4" muffler and replacing it with a 26" 2.5" glasspack just to see a what would happen. The performance was mildly affected, spool time takes a little longer and boost is down about 1lb. The difference was truly minimal. My expectation going from 4" right into 2.5" was that it would be way down on power. The drone was still there, is expected it to be nearly gone. Overall sound was about the same. There has to be a harmonic that the exhaust is hitting based off the tailpipe design and/ or exhaust tip (4" into dual 3.5"). Either way, it's maddening.

    The initial exhaust I did for the car was a stock 540 muffler and y pipe (resonator) fed by the 4" downpipe. It was very quiet. Injector clicking could be heard over the exhaust. I'm not looking to go that crazy this time. A set of M5 oem mufflers are on the way. I'm going to install them without the resonator and see what happens. The cutout is a 3" boost activated setup. It's supposed to open at 5-6psi.
    Last edited by unnatrl; 03-06-2017 at 07:17 PM.

  23. #573
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    Very interested to hear your thoughts on the stock M5 mufflers once installed. I'm too am going conservative on the sound by using stock 2016 Mustang GT mufflers (less the resonator), hopefully just enough rumble for us both!

    S.F.

  24. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by StolenFox View Post
    Very interested to hear your thoughts on the stock M5 mufflers once installed. I'm too am going conservative on the sound by using stock 2016 Mustang GT mufflers (less the resonator), hopefully just enough rumble for us both!

    S.F.
    Let's hope it's the sound I'm after. The exhaust on every car I've built has been a pain in the butt. It has to be just right! The car is nice to drive until that drone starts. Fingers crossed.

  25. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    Let's hope it's the sound I'm after. The exhaust on every car I've built has been a pain in the butt. It has to be just right! The car is nice to drive until that drone starts. Fingers crossed.
    I agree, the drone kills all the fun of any car. I've never tried it but supposedly on a dual exhaust car if you use two different muffler types (one chambered, one straight through) it helps prevent drone because they resonate a different frequencies.

    S.F.

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