Crank gear for timing set was delivered yesterday. That all went back together without any problems. Decided to go ahead and replace the oil pickup. It's supposed to be delivered Thursday.
Looking everything over, I can't see any failures. The o-ring is fine, pickup doesn't appear to be cracked. We are at the better safe than sorry stage I suppose!
Sounds like you will be up and running again by next weekend! I wonder if it wasn't the metal spacer sandwich of the block & oil pump that was allowing a small pressure bleed?
S.F.
Making progress today boys! Oil pressure is back to normal. It maintains 34-35 when hot at idle. Engine revved it makes 60-65. I'm pleased with the improvement!
I mentioned a solution to the a/c lines in a previous post. The lines are originally off of a TPI Camaro/ Firebird, 1991 is the specific year I looked up. I had to tweak the lines a little to clear the ABS module, but it will work.
This pic makes it look closer than it truly is. There is just enough clearance.
The local Ford dealer has a parts guy that is a guru when it comes to a/c lines. Hopefully he can adapt this line to the original BMW lines.
Damn you have been through a lot. I know we chatted a little in my build thread. Now that I see you have been through about 99% of what I am about to go through I am sure I will be hitting you up a lot so don't go far lol.
killer build it appears you have already done most of what I am in progress of doing. You have given me a few ideas on some things I haven't even thought about yet cause it's too far in front of me.
Thanks for the detailed build.
Made some progress with the blowoff valve and wastegate vacuum hoses. Initially, I was going to use nicop and do these in hard lines. The braided lines look much cleaner and they are easier to install.
Finally tied up a few lose ends on the car today. Connected the brake booster vacuum line, rechecked the rocker arms to make sure everything was tight (found one loose) and swapped in a fresh set of plugs. Note to self: make sure the plug wires are seated all the way. Suddenly running on 7 cylinders after driving for a few miles made me very nervous. Anyway, when all 8 are firing it runs fine. It made 7.8 psi on 7 psi wastegate springs. It's definitely not as fast as 14 psi, but all 8 pistons are still in one piece.
Finalized the a/c lines today. Ended up with 2 splices. I went to every parts store and the Ford dealership to find the parts. The splice on the smaller line was one that was not marked or bagged. No idea what it is (in terms of part #). It's a stepped fitting, as the BMW and GM lines are different sizes here. The larger one has the same size on both sizes. The GM vs BMW lines are different, but close enough. The dealership even let me borrow their crimping tool. They were closing early for Xmas.
I trimmed the lines and marked them as well as the splices. Lined them up and crimped them down. The crimps went off without an issue. This was substantially easier than I had anticipated. I hope they hold!!
Final product
A couple of questions:
First, what transmission mount is pictured here?
Second, does the front section have a slight incline from the slip yoke to the carrier bearing? My slip yoke exits the trans at a lower level than the center line of the carrier bearing.
thanks!
S.F.
The mount was made by Jesus Freak. I want to say the tail shaft is slightly lower than the carrier bearing. Sounds like a similar situation as you have. I did space the carrier down about an inch because the driveline was rubbing at one point.
Last edited by unnatrl; 01-05-2017 at 12:02 PM.
Sorry, its a stock style rubber mount. I tried a poly mount at first. It transmitted a ton of noise and vibration. I don't advise poly on the trans.
I used a threaded rod coupling to extend the studs for the center support bearing. The couplings had to be trimmed down a little to get the length I was after. Instead of a stud at the CSB side, I used a bolt that threads into the coupling. Hopefully this pic helps make some sense of what I'm trying to describe.
Rod couplings with bolts, gotcha. Thank you!
S.F.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So far, it looks like all is well. I've been driving the car as much as possible, but snow is making it difficult. A downhill driveway combined with ice makes it less than fun to get the car back into the garage.
Since it's been cold I had to fix the heater. I bought the car in a non-running condition and didn't really pay attention to the heater blower fan. It had the typical failed FSU unit. A new one fixed that. It's nice to have a heater and heated seats in this car. Almost feel spoiled! The a/c lines are done, need to get the compressor control (on/off) figured out. I see a few people have used the l.e.d. circuit on the snow flake button. Others have used a can to analog conversion. Not sure what way I want to go yet.
A 4 port catch can is also in the works. I'm tired of smelling the fumes of the open crank case system. A -10 line will be coming from each valve cover to the can. The recirculation port will be connected to the air filter side between the turbo inlet and after the filter. There should be plenty of vacuum in this spot to make the can function as it should.
I will also be modifying the exhaust. The pipe hangs too low where it goes by the trans crossmember. I've debated whether it's been too low for a while. It's scraped on several speed bumps. There is room on top to tighten the fit. A boost activated cutout is also going to be installed in the general area while I have the exhaust apart. An on/off valve will go inline with the vacuum/pressure line so the valve will only open when a switch is turned on and the car is in boost. Essentially it will accomplish the same thing as an electric cutout, but hopefully be more reliable.
One other idea I'm toying with is a Helmholtz resonator. The car has a horrid drone when it's at cruising speed on the freeway. It doesn't appear that adding/ changing mufflers is going to do much for this. The Helmholtz resonator is a well documented solution that I'm going to try.
Last edited by unnatrl; 01-04-2017 at 12:15 PM.
Great discussion on the topic here (I'm sure Unnatrl has seen this).
Tipsy
Good to hear it's running well for you.
As usual, my mind has been contemplating a few things. The driveline in the car works ok, but I'm nervous that it won't be strong enough. Spending 250-300 dollars on a stock replacement "just in case" and then modifying it for the weld in slip yoke makes me think there is a better way. The center support bearing is the other thing I hate. The amount of play seems excessive. I can feel something moving around under hard accel. I know this is part of it. So far, I'm unable to locate a heavy duty CSB for the application. I've looked as DSS stuff, it's nice and expensive.
Enter the brainstorming mission...
I came across this flange made by Sonnax. It is specifically for newer Dodge products (Challenger/ Charger). The flange has a OD of 108mm and the bolt circle diameter is 94mm. I measured an extra BMW driveline outer flange at 108.35mm, bolt spacing at 93.51mm. The measurements are so close this is worth a try. According to Sonnax, they engineered this flange to hold up to 1400 hp. Sounds like a challenge!!
I've neglected to say that the Sonnax flange uses a 1350 joint. This has been the crux of all driveline solutions I've looked at. I have an old school 4 bolt 210mm flange and the JTR adapter, but a 1310 to 1350 adapter joint isn't what I want. You can't find one that isn't drilled for the grease passages, which makes it a weaker joint.
Also downloaded a frequency checking application to my phone. This will assist in deciding how long to make the Helmholtz resonator. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit. Swapping the ring and pinion in my old pickup last weekend wasn't fun. It was cold enough that the air tools were freezing. Using a small propane torch to melt the ice out of the tools was a new experience!
Last edited by unnatrl; 01-14-2017 at 12:56 PM.
I like the sonnax flange idea!!! I tought about looking into those. While searching for a solution i came across them, but failed to put some time into researching. Is this something you are going to pursue and do you know the cost of one? My plan was to have an adapter machined from the 6 bolt diff flange to a 4 bolt Spicer 1350 yoke. I've been holding back in hopes to find something better and it looks like you have. I'm to the point where I need to get a driveshaft made. The last Choice was a dss driveshaft and like you said they are pricey.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Last edited by unnatrl; 01-14-2017 at 12:54 PM.
Nuuuice! and thank you. Not a bad price, I would be that much or maybe alittle more into the adapter.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
It looks like this flange is going to work perfectly. It slides onto the CV bolts without any binding. The flange is a tiny bit on the big side (outside diameter) when it comes to slipping inside the differential side. It will take a minor amount of work to get it perfect. I think a little bit of polishing to both flanges will be enough. It's that close.
That's porn there!!
Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
You could set up a GoPro video on it just to watch it running for a few times. I know I'd watch that video
Sent from my VK810 4G using Tapatalk
Bookmarks