Turbo 6.0 E39

[unnatrl]

Still waiting on the heads, but they should be done this week. In the mean time, I've been working on small stuff like cleaning up wiring, getting the air filter setup, etc.

I've also been double checking everything that may have had a hand in burning the last engine up. I found the rear coolant crossover was blocked. Not sure if it was due to my negligence during assembling the lines to the ends, or if it was a design flaw (braided stainless line threads into the end pieces). The threaded portion covered the the vent portion that goes into the head. They also didn't connect the the rear steam vents to the front vents. Anyway, the vent holes are no longer blocked. Had to grind the threaded ends down about 1/4". I also drilled and tapped the end fittings to accept 1/8 npt to -4an fittings. The rear is now connected to the front and the front exits out to the the E30 coolant reservoir. A braided stainless line connects the rear to the front. Hopefully this will help alleviate some heat from the rear cylinders.

[doktor b]

looks good.
but i wonder if steam/bubbles won't collect in your front-back line as its in and out are above the port that feeds to the reservoir.
thoughts?

[unnatrl]

looks good.
but i wonder if steam/bubbles won't collect in your front-back line as its in and out are above the port that feeds to the reservoir.
thoughts?

I've had the same concern. When I was watching the reservoir inlet (steam line), it had a steady stream of coolant flowing from the "steam line" inlet while the car was running (this was front only). I figure adding the rear steam ports in won't hurt.

[doktor b]

I've had the same concern. When I was watching the reservoir inlet (steam line), it had a steady stream of coolant flowing from the "steam line" inlet while the car was running (this was front only). I figure adding the rear steam ports in won't hurt.

sounds good. i'm still a few weeks from firing mine up. so i'm still operating in theory instead of practice.

[unnatrl]

sounds good. i'm still a few weeks from firing mine up. so i'm still operating in theory instead of practice.

No worries. I find a lot of headaches and contradictions when researching a lot of this stuff. Sometimes you have to give it a shot. If it doesn't work, change it! :-)

[unnatrl]

Heads are back! The repairs were minor, more or less a light surface job. Valve guides were in good shape. The only changes are a new set of stainless steel valves and valve stem seals.

Heads are back on!

Still need to reinstall the manifolds, turbo, manifold crossover. It's getting close!

On another note, the a/c hoses from an early 90's TPI Camaro seem like they are going to work (slight tweak to clear abs module). The lines will have to be adapted to the stock ones, but everything seems to line up well. When it comes together I will post more pics/ details.

[doktor b]

hell yeah!

[unnatrl]

Gentlemen, it's alive! It took a few hours of tracing wiring to convert the cam and crank over to the 58x. I took my time so there wouldn't be any mistakes. To do it a second time would be a 20 minute job.

Sorry for the short video. Had to shut it down to keep the neighbors at bay. Uncapped at 8 o'clock on a Sunday night is definitely under my definition of fun, but not theirs.

http://youtu.be/--irEaGSeB0

One quick observation on the hybrid throttle cable- it feels much better. It's smooth like I expected it to be. There isn't any binding like what was being experienced with the Lokar cable.

There are a few odds and ends that need to be finished up before it's road worthy. All in all, a good day!

[doktor b]

if you were my neighbor, i wouldn't complain about that.

[unnatrl]

if you were my neighbor, i wouldn't complain about that.

I like your style!

[doktor b]

I like your style!

i've actually already spoken to my two closest neighbors about all the noise i'm gonna make when i first get mine started. i told them exhaust will come shortly thereafter. but isn't a priority for me.

they SAY they're ok with that plan. i plan to test them.

[unnatrl]

i've actually already spoken to my two closest neighbors about all the noise i'm gonna make when i first get mine started. i told them exhaust will come shortly thereafter. but isn't a priority for me.

they SAY they're ok with that plan. i plan to test them.

Lmao! I make it a point to start every engine swap I do with open headers.

[doktor b]

Lmao! I make it a point to start every engine swap I do with open headers.

that's the spirit. i already have the y-pipe on. not sure if that will make it better or worse!

[Tim Mc]

The only way to start a new engine (or new to the car)...hear it come alive!

[unnatrl]

The only way to start a new engine (or new to the car)...hear it come alive!

Agreed! It's been a tradition since I built my first mustang engine when I was 17! Seems like forever ago.

[unnatrl]

After watching the oil pressure reading, Im going to double check oil pressure manually. I suspect my pressure sender is on the fritz. When it (sender) was completely unplugged pressure was showing 24-25 psi. A different style sensor shows -2 when it's not installed but plugged in. I'm a bit weary after the last failures!

Aside from this, there are a few small things to finish up before I can button everything up, but it's close.

Edit: Oil pressure did not change when using a different sender or a manual gauge. Looks as if the front of the engine is coming back apart to swap oil pumps. A high pressure Melling is on the way. Damn my luck!!!

[bimerok]

So what's the reading from manual guage?

[unnatrl]

So what's the reading from manual guage?

25 idle, 34 when revved up. Falls off to ~30. Not sure if the pressure relief is having issues or what's causing it.

[StolenFox]

Looks as if the front of the engine is coming back apart to swap oil pumps. A high pressure Melling is on the way. Damn my luck!!!

Jeez, that sucks. Hopefully a new pump will fix you right up. Since the pressure was good before the teardown, do you think the pickup o-ring could have gotten cut or split when re-installed?

S.F.

[unnatrl]

Jeez, that sucks. Hopefully a new pump will fix you right up. Since the pressure was good before the teardown, do you think the pickup o-ring could have gotten cut or split when re-installed?

S.F.

It's very possible. I was really careful (so I thought) when installing the pickup. There are other factors that may be at play as well. The dual timing chain required spacers to be installed between the block and the pump. This is to space the pump outward so it doesn't hit the thicker timing chain. Spacing the pump out caused the pickup tube to fit differently. It may be at just enough of an angle that the o-ring isn't sealing properly. Either way, something is not right. I'm going back to a factory timing chain & the high pressure Melling pump. The one that is in the car now was OK on the last engine, but it was on the low side of "acceptable" in terms of oil pressure. I'm considering a new pickup from Autokraft just to make sure it doesn't have a problem as well.

[stix]

Had a buddy, that did a cam swap and the dual timing chain have the same problem. But I think he had no oil pressure. He also went back to the single chain and that solved the issue.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

[unnatrl]

Had a buddy, that did a cam swap and the dual timing chain have the same problem. But I think he had no oil pressure. He also went back to the single chain and that solved the issue.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

That's encouraging. The more I think about the "work around" to make that chain fit, it seems stupid. I did it initially so the cam could be degreed properly. Maybe luck was in my side when setting it dot to dot worked out. Let's hope the new GM crank gear is keyed in the same spot! It seems like this stuff always happens when I do stuff the "right way." Toss a junkyard engine together and it will be golden on the first go around with zero f&$ks given.

[bimerok]

I was always curious, when you space oil pump outwards, how is it working in the area where oil gets from the pump to the block? Is there a spacer/seal that is added so the oil travels through?

I know in oem application it is sealing metal on metal wothout anything else in between.

[unnatrl]

I was always curious, when you space oil pump outwards, how is it working in the area where oil gets from the pump to the block? Is there a spacer/seal that is added so the oil travels through?

I know in oem application it is sealing metal on metal wothout anything else in between.

It's a metal on metal spacer.
Oil flows through the larger hole in the triangle piece. It's a simple design, but I suspect the lack of machined surfaces don't lend to a proper seal. Not a good problem to create.

[unnatrl]

And we are waiting for parts again!