JP's LH2.2 M10

[B320i]

Engine bay is looking very nice and tidy. Congratulations on the good effort thus far

[Allenwilson33]

Looks like you've got Ireland' Engineering's heavy duty rocker arms? I scored some hardly-used Febi rockers at the junkyard from recently rebuilt head of a 77' e12, but your IE HDs look quite handsome in contrast to mine, now that I see em'. May I ask why you opted for springs instead of rocker arm locks? And whether you're using their over-ssized rocker arm eccentrics?
I called Jeff at IE for the first time on Saturday to get a quote for decking my head, replacing the valve stem seals, and regrinding my cam. Lol they're sold out of adjustable cam sprockets. Did you get their last one?!? Anyhow, I inquired about the 39mm valves, to which he replied: "I'll sell you them, but they won't do your engine any good." You mentioned a valve job on yours, and a cam that can do 6800 rpm. so how should I go about choosing my cam regrind, and choosing valve springs when there are so many recent developments in metalurgy? I hear that even titanium retainers are outdated and over-priced, and I see you chose the dual spring setup. Can you help a beginner with some starting points on making those choices please?
Lastly, I'm gathering you're an automotive professional, but would you recommend I have IE build the cylinder head, or is it something I can do slowly, with the assistance of my good friend, a machinist? *Note he has experience with other Euro cars, but not BMW...I have experience with BMW, but not engine internals...

[Imolarot2]

Engine bay is looking very nice and tidy. Congratulations on the good effort thus far

thanks! It's still a bit of a mess to me but it's getting there.

Looks like you've got Ireland' Engineering's heavy duty rocker arms? I scored some hardly-used Febi rockers at the junkyard from recently rebuilt head of a 77' e12, but your IE HDs look quite handsome in contrast to mine, now that I see em'. May I ask why you opted for springs instead of rocker arm locks? And whether you're using their over-ssized rocker arm eccentrics?
I called Jeff at IE for the first time on Saturday to get a quote for decking my head, replacing the valve stem seals, and regrinding my cam. Lol they're sold out of adjustable cam sprockets. Did you get their last one?!? Anyhow, I inquired about the 39mm valves, to which he replied: "I'll sell you them, but they won't do your engine any good." You mentioned a valve job on yours, and a cam that can do 6800 rpm. so how should I go about choosing my cam regrind, and choosing valve springs when there are so many recent developments in metalurgy? I hear that even titanium retainers are outdated and over-priced, and I see you chose the dual spring setup. Can you help a beginner with some starting points on making those choices please?
Lastly, I'm gathering you're an automotive professional, but would you recommend I have IE build the cylinder head, or is it something I can do slowly, with the assistance of my good friend, a machinist? *Note he has experience with other Euro cars, but not BMW...I have experience with BMW, but not engine internals...

ok, let me see if I can answer all of this correctly

Yes, they are IE rockers and dual springs. I can't remember off the top of my head which eccentrics we used. We used springs instead of locks because I don't have a high rev cam, but instead a high lift and the upgraded rockers/springs are to prevent valve float. I did not get the IE adjustable cam gear although I would have preferred that one, I ended up with the VAC one because I needed it before the Ireland one's would be available again.

You don't necessarily need an adjustable cam gear unless you deck yours a lot, mine was done this way to increase compression. If you merely do a mild refresh you can use your stock gears. Having Ireland do the work for you would not be a bad idea if you don't have experience, but honestly you need to plan out what you want the engine to be before you can determine what internal parts you will be running.

Lastly, no I don't do this for a living. My family owns some feed stores which I manage. I work on cars as a hobby. The stuff you see in the background of my pictures are my buddy's restoration shop here in San Diego where I've been coming to get my cars worked on for over 15 years now.

[OLD MAN]

JP - looks like you are really close?

You are really doing a great job - I know you said you do not work on cars for a living - but I have a car that needs attention?

[Imolarot2]

JP - looks like you are really close? You are really doing a great job - I know you said you do not work on cars for a living - but I have a car that needs attention?

Thanks Daryl! Sure I'll come up and help, but I think we should put your BBQ plan in order and have many hands around to help out. What do you think?

[OLD MAN]

I am always ready to BBQ! May is booked for me when can you come?

When will you're car be running?

[amarino]

BBQ and cars, sounds like a fun time.

[Imolarot2]

I am always ready to BBQ! May is booked for me when can you come?

When will you're car be running?

Just let me know what works for you. My birthday is Sun 6/14 so I don't want to do anything that day but otherwise I can't think of anything else quite yet. My car should be back on the road within the next week or two, then comes boring break in mileage

BBQ and cars, sounds like a fun time.

Agreed!

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Temporary air filter, will need to take the 318 airbox over to my metal working buddy's shop and figure out what we need to do to make it fit cleanly



Both elbows are genuine BMW air boots.

- - - Updated - - -

It ran... unfortunately this is at 2k rpm without timing or ICV adjusted. Either way this is proof of concept for this engine.



Next up is cleaning/wrapping up the harness, modifying the 318i airbox to work/fit correct, mount the charcoal filter, and get a proper length throttle cable/bracket. After that I can get everything adjusted correctly.

[OLD MAN]

Yes!!!

[Allenwilson33]

Count me in for helping with anything needed; it'd be great to finally meet y'all in person, and I might even be able to talk Max into coming if he hasn't booked it for the other side of the country Besides, I regret missing the recent Temecula gathering.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, they are IE rockers and dual springs. I can't remember off the top of my head which eccentrics we used. We used springs instead of locks because I don't have a high rev cam, but instead a high lift and the upgraded rockers/springs are to prevent valve float. I did not get the IE adjustable cam gear although I would have preferred that one, I ended up with the VAC one because I needed it before the Ireland one's would be available again.

You don't necessarily need an adjustable cam gear unless you deck yours a lot, mine was done this way to increase compression. If you merely do a mild refresh you can use your stock gears.

Thank you for patiently explaining all of this. I should have stopped by Ireland Engineering today, when I shot over to Monrovia Pick your Part for an 83' e21. As soon as I passed Duarte, I was face-palming-while-driving, realizing I could have brought the head along with me at least for drop-off or consultation.

Anyhow, I agree that an adjustable cam sprocket won't be necessary for me anytime soon.
I do however like the idea of the rocker locks still yet, which are a little sturdier than the factory compression springs at preventing ...here's where I get confused.
Isn't valve float the left to right movement, which the locks help reduce?

And valve bounce would be the condition where the valve doesn't close all the way--requiring a solution such as dual valve springs?

The concept for my m10 rebuild is becoming clearer, but I'd like to explore the main differences between high compression and high rev. I assumed they were directly related, but you mentioned attaining a high compression with high lift, which makes sense: the intake valve opens slowly, and the exhaust valve likewise pushes the gases out rapidly. And your 6800rpm is rather high, no? Or is that a moderately low number when compared with F1 engines? I don't wish to exhaust you with my questions, pun intended.
Thanks.

[Tom D]

Isn't valve float the left to right movement, which the locks help reduce?

And valve bounce would be the condition where the valve doesn't close all the way

valve float is when the valve does not follow the contour of the cam lobe and will hang open, this is the result of the wrong springs.

valve bounce is when the valve bounces around on the seat, not only up and down but also sideways. this too is a condition of the wrong springs.

[Imolarot2]

And valve bounce would be the condition where the valve doesn't close all the way--requiring a solution such as dual valve springs?

The concept for my m10 rebuild is becoming clearer, but I'd like to explore the main differences between high compression and high rev. I assumed they were directly related, but you mentioned attaining a high compression with high lift, which makes sense: the intake valve opens slowly, and the exhaust valve likewise pushes the gases out rapidly. And your 6800rpm is rather high, no? Or is that a moderately low number when compared with F1 engines? I don't wish to exhaust you with my questions, pun intended.
Thanks.

valve float is when the valve does not follow the contour of the cam lobe and will hang open, this is the result of the wrong springs.

valve bounce is when the valve bounces around on the seat, not only up and down but also sideways. this too is a condition of the wrong springs.

^what Tom said.

You are correct that high compression generally comes together with high revs. What I have done is get a custom cam with lift characteristics of a much higher duration cam. Basically, my 287 will act like a 316, have a lower redline (6800 vs 7200), and have much more reasonable idle characteristics. My rev limit really isn't that high, stock was 6400. With the right cam you can probably rev to the 8k range, but past around 7.5k you come into issues with ramp angles. There are limits to what a SOHC can efficiently run at.

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random pics

[OLD MAN]

JP really great effort and solid work, now the fun begins!

[benjaminfrankln]

I love this thread. Do you any details on the wiring for the Volvo LH jet? What pins have to be swapped. My car is currently swapped to l jet but I want to ditch the afm

[Imolarot2]

JP really great effort and solid work, now the fun begins!

thanks Daryl! We're almost there... I still need to get a throttle cable made, by chance do you know of a motorcycle shop that I should get to make me one here in SoCal?

I love this thread. Do you any details on the wiring for the Volvo LH jet? What pins have to be swapped. My car is currently swapped to l jet but I want to ditch the afm

Thanks! Yeah, I have have the wiring info but there are a few things you need to add to the 318i harness and a few things that are no longer needed. For example, if you look at the overhead picture you can see where wires have been added for things like the MAF and the 3 wire ICV. You might be able to notice that 318 and the 320 harness are soldered together next to my strut tower, if you look closely you can see where the black heat shrink ends, there is exposed wire, then the grey shrink starts and runs to the fuse box. Also, you will notice that a lot of the stuff from the E30 setup is not present in my bay. There is a decent amount of stuff to do, so I guess it depends on what you've already done to convert to L-Jet. Here is the cheat sheet I used:



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holes filled, need to get some more paint



figured out my idle issue... apparently I swapped 2/3 of the ICV wires when I converted from the 2 wire E30 setup to the 3 wire Volvo. The stupid ICV wires are blue/white and blue/red on the E30 harness... the Germans seriously couldn't pick another color besides blue as the base?

Now that it's fixed it idles in the 750-800 RPM range. After this video was taken we adjusted the valves and set the timing to 6° at idle. Will now finally get around to soldering and wrapping up the harness to look clean

[Allenwilson33]

Killer video! Care to post another with the microphone by your exhaust tip? Call me superficial, but I'm curious as to how it sounds, since I've followed your rebuild closely.

- - - Updated - - -

^what Tom said.

You are correct that high compression generally comes together with high revs. What I have done is get a custom cam with lift characteristics of a much higher duration cam. Basically, my 287 will act like a 316, have a lower redline (6800 vs 7200), and have much more reasonable idle characteristics. My rev limit really isn't that high, stock was 6400. With the right cam you can probably rev to the 8k range, but past around 7.5k you come into issues with ramp angles. There are limits to what a SOHC can efficiently run at.

I've got my hands on an S14 m3 crankshaft, but as I embark on the m10 rebuild for the first time, it will not involve the short block except for piston rings (I'm not ready to fork out the money for pistons, rods, bearings, cylinder bore, etc.)
I'd like to keep the car legal for smog in California, so I'd like to ask how compression may affect emissions, if any at all.

Again, much thanks for patiently explaining these things, guys.

[Imolarot2]

Killer video! Care to post another with the microphone by your exhaust tip? Call me superficial, but I'm curious as to how it sounds, since I've followed your rebuild closely.


I've got my hands on an S14 m3 crankshaft, but as I embark on the m10 rebuild for the first time, it will not involve the short block except for piston rings (I'm not ready to fork out the money for pistons, rods, bearings, cylinder bore, etc.)
I'd like to keep the car legal for smog in California, so I'd like to ask how compression may affect emissions, if any at all.

Again, much thanks for patiently explaining these things, guys.

I don't have a current video of the exhaust, but I don't like how it sounds. I think my cat has detached, but also I still have the stock piping going to a generic Magnaflow muffler.

Here is an old video when I first installed the muffler:



If you're planning on doing piston rings you should at least do bearings at the same time and inspect/rebuild your oil pump.

[OLD MAN]

JP sorry I just noticed your question about the throttle cable - not right off hand. I put a cut to fit system for hot rods in the track car.

[Imolarot2]

No problem, I did look at the stuff on Summit but I didn't see anything that looked quite right. Right now there is an E28 cable installed but the plastic jacket is too short so the angle at the bracket is fairly harsh. This issue is because I'm using a M20 throttle body and it sits slightly twisted vs how the M10 throttle sat so the E30 one is too short. The original cable is far too short because the E21 connected on the firewall side. I think I'll just call around to some shops here in town and see what they say for where to go.

Edit: called around and found a shop here in town that does it. Will stop by later this week

[OLD MAN]

Sounds good - really looking forward to seeing it drive - in person.

[Imolarot2]

Sounds good - really looking forward to seeing it drive - in person.

It should be soon... let's get the BBQ plans going!

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Cut off some more brackets



Ground smooth and temporarily primered



Figured out an airbox... half E21 M10, half E28 M30





Need to weld this stud to the frame rail so I can use the stock rubber mount on the bottom of the airbox

[Imolarot2]

Throttle cable made, now I need to make a bracket so it sits at the right angle



'85 fuel rail arrived from Germany, need to switch over and make a block off plate for my cold start injector

[Imolarot2]

Ground cables replaced. I repositioned the alt ground from the 318i position on the bracket to directly on the block. I also ran a newer style sleeved cable to the frame from the same unused bolt hole. I will hopefully now not have to deal with oil on my ground cable whenever I change the filter.



Messed with the stock 318i bracket some more. Got it to close enough where it will work for now. At least I can use this as a template to bend up a new bracket. I will also need to shift the hole a few mm off the current position so the cable sits at the perfect angle

[benjaminfrankln]

Thanks for sharing the wiring. Most of the wiring I did to swap to L-jet was to plug the e30 harness into the e21 fuse box. So maybe 8 wires or so had to be connected. I am going to save the picture you posted. Over the summer I might do the swap. Im sure I will have a lot more questions for you then haha.

Your throttle cable is a lot cleaner than mine. I may have to clean mine up like yours. Is the throttle body swap beneficial to stock m10, or is it mostly utilized when its stroked and punched over like yours?

I just kept the e21 cable and made a bracket from the hardware store to mount it at the correct length, but the angle isn't the best.

And I like the air box. I used the stock 318i air box with the afm and its a bit too bulky in the engine bay.

[Imolarot2]

Done... tomorrow I will take it for a shake down cruise