Member
As usual, I'm on the road and in research mode rather than in FL able to turn wrenches; I need to make a decision about EVAP. Long story shot, it's not a simple proposition to retain EVAP using the E40 PCM. With the LS1 computer(s), the software is looking for a fuel level voltage/resistance signal similar to what the BMW fuel level sender generates. My LS2's E40 computer is looking for a signal opposite to what the BMW fuel level sender generates. While this is not insurmountable, there's definitely not a simple solution.
ZR6SBC came up with a solution for his swap (different chassis and computer) but I'm simply not capable of developing something similar on my own. I've emailed Thaniel and he's willing to help, but even with his help, this is complicated stuff. A few months back, I posted on a forum for guys like Thaniel. I was surprised at the feedback I got but again, graduate level stuff.
So, as much as I hate to admit defeat, it seems that simply forgoing a functioning EVAP system seems to be nearly the only viable option. With all of that said;
How badly can I expect my HOT, Florida garage to stink with the EVAP line vented to the atmosphere? I'm assuming most of you keep your cars in the garage and I know many do not have functioning EVAP.
As always.
Thanks.
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 03-01-2015 at 10:18 AM.
Major Lazer
I didn't have a functioning EVAP setup in my previous swap and didn't have issues with fuel fumes stinking up the garage.
As long as you leave your charcoal canister connected to the fuel tank vent, it should adsorb the fumes.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Member
Left charcoal canister in trunk, cut blue evap line near rear axle. No issues with smell
96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
90 Schwarz 325i
IG : sdobart
Member
I have a 93 and the canister was under the hood. I had to get rid of it. The blue evap line is just open near the rear axle. If I fill up on the way home the garage will stink. It only stinks with a full tank and big temp difference.
Member
Okay, not as bad as I thought. For simplicity's sake and to keep moving forward, I guess EVAP will be eliminated.
Thanks.
Tipsy
Member
I vented mine without the charcoal canister, just a small kn vent filter on the end. I don't think I've ever smelt fumes. And when you think of it, how often do you smell fumes from a red gas can in your garage (just an example)
Member
I eliminated the evap on mine and never had an odor issue. Do NOT plug the line from the tank the went to the canister, that's how I collapsed my tank.
Member
Can the blue line that comes forward to the engine be plugged? I assume it's "technically" plugged whenever the purge valve is closed (in a functioning system). Unless I'm misunderstanding how the system functions, I don't see any detriment in cutting and plugging the blue line. Am I correct?Originally Posted by htrdbmr
Tipsy
Member
I don't think so... plugging the blue evap line will completely close off the system with no way for the fumes to escape. The purge valve closes/opens it according the fuel tank pressure. Once open the fumes from the blue line enter the intake manifold. (I may be wrong though, but that's how it all makes sense in my head)
I know the LS1 has an existing evap port on the intake manifold that a few people have used to plug their blue evap line to, referring to this post here:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...8#post28007698
Member
I cut the blue line and had the car parked in 100 degree weather in california and zero smell.
Member
Interesting. Again, I'm not too knowledgeable on how the tank venting system works but it appears that post is suggesting to remove the EVAP purge solenoid (since it's not functional) and connect the blue vent line directly to the nipple on the intake manifold.
I assume this would result in constant vacuum on the blue vent line, when the engine is operating. I guess doing so is not a problem?
Tipsy
Member
Don't do that. You will constantly be pulling a vacuum on the tank and collapse it. Not to mention be very difficult to tune since it's constantly sucking in fuel fumes through a vacuum leak. Just leave it open or figure out a way to install a GM fuel tank pressure sensor and use the GM purge valve.
Member
That's what I thought. I'll just cut the line and leave it vented to the atmosphere.
Tipsy
Member
That's what I did. No fuel smells in the garage and it's parked with a full tank of gas. Just thought that was an interesting approach, the vacuum thing didn't really cross my mind.
Member
BRAAP and Tongboy worked out a solution that got evap working that was not too involved from what I read. You need a gm fuel tank pressure sensor and the solenoid, feed those signals back to the pcm and let it control operation of the bmw charcoal canister.
Member
Tongboy and Braap both had LS1's with 411 computers. Mine is an LS2 with an E40. I won't bother to reiterate all of the details about why that makes a difference but if you're interested, you can read my post here. The LS2 computer is looking for fuel level signals opposite of what the 411 computer requires.
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 03-03-2015 at 04:02 PM.
Member
Ah. I wasn't aware there was a difference. My apologies
Member
Hmm, didnt think about this. But i have it plumbed into the intake manifold port because i was tired of the raw fuel smell when i had the blue line just hanging open in the engine bay. Did this and smell went away considerably but still with a large cam there will always be that smell somewhat.
Is anybody experiancing problems with the blue line into the intake?
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