Did the front rotors and pads yesterday. I stripped the set screw on the passenger side, but the drivers side already came pre-stripped to save me time...
There was talk of drilling it out, or reverse threading and getting it out, but ultimately this was the easiest route to take.
This was causing a bit of annoyance inside the car.
Pass side
Drivers side
Pads were ok, looks like last brake job just included the pads.
Rears getting done soon in a couple of weeks.
Looks way better.
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Needs low up front :/
Bravo!!! dude WHO ARE YOU?!?! doing maintenance work and stuff. tackling problems with pure logic. No more Brake Lining Warning? Im guessing theres no more warnings at all! right?
I feel like a proud father watching his child ride a bike without training wheels
btw you should get a custom plate that says NOTAM5 ... though I saw another armo down here whos plate said KEZENCH and when I asked him what it means he said, whats it to you?! rude!
Last edited by 2mAn; 03-29-2015 at 09:37 PM.
When you get to the rear brakes, it is absolutely important you are able still use a rotor retaining screw. If you do not have a screw in place and you take off the wheel with the E-brake on, the rotor will rotate and will not line up with the holes for the lug bolts. So you have to take off the E-brake and rotate the rotor and is going to fall if you are using the spare tire jack to lift it. I was unable to screw it back in and now I have to go through that BS every time I take off that wheel now, and if I get a flat tire I will be screwed since I can't carry a 4 ton floor jack with me.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
That's too funny. That's what it means, but this guy probably had too many kuklas running after him so he had to get the plates. I do get a check your coolant warning light that goes away. I checked it, then what??
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So I don't get it, you cant put the set screw back in? I put new rotors and new set screws in so it didn't matter if I destroyed the old ones. I had ordered extras and the Brembo rotors came with a set.
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M5eater, M5killa, whatamg, AMGEater? Those are cool options too. But I do really like my standard plates. I think I'll keep them. If I go custom plates it's gonna be my username.
This was for the rear passenger brake rotor. I rounded the rotor screw and I was unable to drill the rounded screw all the way through for the last corner of the brakes so there is nothing keeping the rotor in place, so when the wheel bolts are all taken out the rotor will rotate and be misaligned so then you are required to release the E-brake to rotate the rotor back in place.
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
And that is why you never use the widow maker.
And a jack stand
That hurts me looking at it.
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I personally don't trust jack stands either.
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I just fueled up, computer is off by .1 (I wouldn't even say it's off at this amount)
I surprised that it works and tracks correctly.
Last edited by e24mpwr; 03-30-2015 at 09:16 AM.
I still don't get the big deal, honestly. I never replace rotor retaining screws once I get them off (unless they are in a recessed pocket and hex head, like the S60R), and haven't had an issue on the M5 just releasing the e-brake and rotating the rotors. Are you only jacking up one side at a time? If the wheels are coming off, I lift both sides as a rule.
You could also get this: http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/WH/WH-PIN.html
Though ideally not from Rogue...
This is also why I vastly prefer studs > lugs.
Fixed my glove box issue. Although I think I still need the little glove box "shock"(is that what's it's called?)
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One thing that happened to me today, I downshifted on the highway, car accelarated, had a little power loss and kept accelerating again. That was weird I thought. It was the first time it did this. I tried to replicate it at 60 and 70 mph, and same thing happened.
I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak or a maf issue? Any experiences? Although I didn't check, but haven't noticed this happening during city driving.
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Car does not throw any codes. The only thing is the check coolant sign, I have been keeping my eye on it and I don't seem to have a leak, fluid level stays the same.
It is basically a tiny shock absorber for the glove box, yep. Either find one at a yard, or pay ~$60 for a new one. I'm still hoping for the former before bending over for the latter. I've also considered getting the shock rebuilt, mainly to see the guy's face when I ask him to rebuild a shock that size
If you still have the CD's I would be interested...
Current Collection:
1993 740iL - daily driver; 1994 740iL - project #1; 1994 740i - project #2
1991 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon - beast of burden & tool/parts hauler
I gave them away. I have a few in the CD changer in the trunk but the CD cartridge won't come out :/ so if you find me a way to take them out, you can have the CDs.
Lol. No biggie. I got other things to worry about for now.
Went on a little road trip this weekend. Here are some pics.
I broke 200k
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Unexpected gas mileage.
How big is our gas tank?
Total mileage for this trip.
Car did well. Little bit of noise here and there. Nothing major. Unfortunately didn't pull on the S5 (which is expected) but I hope to stay closer to him once I set up my exhaust, change plugs, and such.
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Also. I now hate photobucket, too slow and too many ads. What's a better choice?
Tri-Cities?
95 E34 553i6 LS TR6060 Project
93 E34 525iA Beater with no heaterVANOS kicked in yo!
Yep, Seattle>Spokane>Idaho>Tri Cities>Seattle.
The good ol' Blue Bridge in the pic there.
Nice, welcome to the 200k club. Your car now looks identical to mine when I first bought it.
80 liter/ ~21 gal fuel capacity.
I'm not up on my Audis, is that S5 the 4.2 or the 3.0T (s/c)?
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