'91 M5 #06091 resto thread

[BleedsBlue]

Quick intro, since I started posting (not contributing, yet) in this section without one: I'm another Brent (in CO) and I bought M5 BK06091 from a close friend in April 2014. The car had 220k on it and was a mess, but the engine had an essentially zero-miles rebuilt head w/ S50B32 tensioner, good bottom end, and perfectly functioning driveline. Since I basically bought the car for the price of a working M5 drivetrain and the E34 M5 was on my automotive bucket list, I was able to overlook the mileage and issues (primarily suspension wear and cosmetics). The car was delivered with a ton of spare parts, many of which have made their way onto the car.

Completely irrationally, to fund this car I sold a dynamite Nissan B13 SE-R w/ factory sunroof delete, manual seats and windows, and a built SR20 (near 200fwhp, 2450 lbs) that I rescued from a buddy's yard, rebuilt the front end, and had running reliably for $800 total; and a '99 Saab 9-3 "stage 5" I bought built for far less than the cost of modifications, which had a dead-reliable (seriously) 300whp in a 3,000 lb hatchback shell. Both of these cars spank the M5 in a straight line, but neither were half as cool, either. Thankfully the SE-R stayed local and one of my best friends bought the Slaab.

This M5 was delivered with a light silver-grey interior, but a few owners ago it was swapped (mostly successfully) to black with Mitsubishi Evo 8 or 9 leather Recaros. Not my taste, but they are light, offer better headroom, and will be replaced with SRDs eventually. The car also had a full SLS delete. Bummer for originality (and my car nerdiness), but the 535i-based components that replaced the SLS has saved more weight. I bought the car w/o a spare wheel and tire, and in this configuration with a quarter tank of fuel, it weighs 3600 lbs sans driver.

Somewhere along the line the car also lost the original front bumper, trunk lid, and wheels. I bought it with E38 M Parallels, which have just been sold to fund proper M Systems w/ Turbine covers come springtime. I mention this to acknowledge that this will never be a numbers-matching M5 again, but at the very least, I hope to restore it to an extent that it can soldier on for many more years to come.

This thread will document my sloooow restoration and help keep me organized. It will be slow because I'm paying off student debt, other loans, and trying to buy a house in the next year. I learned how to wrench rebuilding a high mileage E36 M3, which I owned for 5 years and sold w/ 175k and not a single issue. The car is tracked regularly by the new owner and has only need tires and brake pads in another 10k miles!

Some as-delivered pictures:

Can you say rock chips? This was after I replaced the kidney and headlight surround grills, the chrome kidney surrounds, and half-way successfully bent the dented nose panel back into a shape that would at least keep the kidneys in place.


The poorly color-matched (but OEM) spoiler-equipped trunk lid is getting replaced w/ a spoiler-less lid. I hate the spoiler on this chassis. M-pars now gone.


After a new Interstate battery, the first real job to make the car daily-able was new strut inserts. After some research, I went with Bilstein inserts, since I wanted to rebuild the suspension to primarily stock before I added suspension mods. This job also gave me a chance to evaluate the loose-feeling, clunky, shimmying front suspension, and confirm that basically everything needs replacement. Sorry for the potato-quality pictures in a poorly lit apartment garage. All the moisture on the fender liner was from the leaking PS reservoir, which turned out to come from both hose clamps on the bottom being finger tight. Go figure.



Demonstrating how shot the 220k mile OEM struts were. I could fully compress them with minimal effort, and they barely rebounded.

Both strut insert nuts (the big ones) did not budge from any combo of penetrating oil, pipe wrenches, torches, etc, so I took the struts to my good friend, the P.O., and he used a cutting wheel to cut a vertical (parallel w/ strut to avoid messing up threads) notch in each nut, and then hammered the nut further open. What a pain, but it worked and the new strut insert cap nuts threaded on perfectly. The Bilstein Touring struts at stock ride height are nice and compliant, and apparently valved about ~10% stiffer than stock.

After running the rebuilt engine for about a thousand miles, it was time for an oil change. Speakers and Brad Penn were for the 911.


The oil looked great, and I have driven enough that I can estimate the engine uses about 1/2 qt per 3k miles. Using Mobil 1, I will stick to about 7,500 mile intervals, to time every other oil change w/ valve adjustment.

The interior also needed some love since a bunch of issues were driving my OCD crazy. I did the shrunken weather stripping fix (new M dead pedal cover was installed after this picture):


No idea what happened to the center vent, but every slat was broken. I replaced it with the dustiest but functioning center vent. The dash looks rough in this area, I think during the interior swap someone put things together slightly off and gave up. I'll fix it in due time.


On the interior subject, everything was black-swapped below the A/C pillars, except for the rear parcel shelf, which was not only silver-grey but dirty.


Some fabric spray fixed that problem (the color is uniform IRL, the photo doesn't show it):


A couple of the dozen minor trim pieces missing that I've bought new (and still have more to buy):


Next I started tracking down a rear end clunk mainly related to engaging and disengaging the clutch. I checked and found the subframe bushings were somewhat compromised, so these went in:


The AKG subframe bushes reduced the clunk but did not fix it entirely. Without checking the existing component, I bought a Lemforder center diff mount and installed it. Unfortunately, the mount I pulled out was pretty solid still, and I kept it in case the Lemforder goes bad. I got a good deal on Lemforder dogbones, and jumped on them. The existing dogbones had a hilarious amount of deflection, and the new units keep the rear end far better planted. The clunk is still there, and the P.O. and I now suspect the driveshaft and/or CSB is at fault. Both are likely original, and I need to check them out. In the meantime, my rear end is finally solid and the only thing left to do back there is to reseal the diff. Woohoo.

This happened (the miles, not the low washer fluid. I just had to rotate the sensor 90 degrees to upright):


I decided I would winterize the M5 in preparation for the 2014/15 snowboarding and daily driving season, rather than buy a third car. Since the E34 M5 factory winter wheel option was 16x7 Style 5s (et20 IIRC), I picked up a beat set of much more common E38 16x8s and added Blizzak WS80s in 215 width. Annoyingly, for the same price as the beat wheels I bought on eBay, someone local to me sold a beautiful refinished set of the same wheels, but I just missed 'em.

Before I could install them, the cat acted like a cat:


I test fit them, worried about front strut clearance. It just barely fits w/o a spacer, but a wider tire would create problems. Note the tiny triangle of surface rust on the back of the fender, one of the areas I need to address come spring. And I can't get the damn chrome window trim at the bottom of the rear window to stay flush.


I pieced together a Yakima 1A gutter mount roof rack, and already had wide Yakima snowboard/ski racks that can fit four of each or two and two. Note the same triangle of surface rust on this side.


Then, after a few sub 30 degrees F drives, I opted to swap the M1 15w-50 out for M1 10w-40. With this oil the engine warms up in the usual time even in 10 F, whereas before it never fully warmed up under 30 F. When it gets above 50 F, I take the 911 out instead. I added BavAuto rubber floor mats, which fit great for the money and protect the carpet. I replaced many little bits including trunk shocks, the intake manifold M badge, etc etc. Added an M Tech 2 steering wheel. The car has been on several trips to Breckenridge and Keystone, including one with three passengers and a bunch of gear, and it's solid in the snow.

That about brings us to the present, right at 225k miles and still running like a top. As mentioned, I'm swapping a spoiler-less trunk lid on (OEM spoiler to be FS soon), sourcing M Systems for springs/summer, and continuing the suspension work as my first priority (though a windshield might come soon). I'm going with E31 spherical LCAs, Moosehead UCABs, and mainly Lemforder steering links (already have a new Lemf center rod waiting for install), at which point the suspension should be autocross-ready and solid. I'll look into the drive shaft and components as well. The exterior will be addressed in time, which may necessitate a full re-spray but will definitely include proper black-painted lower trim.

I will update and attempt to take better and more pictures as I go along. This forum has already been a huge help and I hope to eventually contribute more than hot air, though at this point I don't think there is anything new to add.

[The Night Rider]

Nice job, these old M5's are too nice to be allowed to fade away. I like how you said the rear sub frame mounts just "went in". Its a pretty big job and I need to do mine some time soon.

[Tre0Tre34]

Subscribed.

[93FIM5]

Subscribed. Looks like us Colorado guys need to schedule a meet some time. Can't wait to see your progress and let me know if you need help with anything.

-Greg

[S61Dan]

Like it so far!

[XCRN]

Very nice project you have there. Something I should mention about the rear deck is that after the paint, the cloth will attract every little bit of dirt and hair and such a PITA to clean without ruling it. I do not even drive the thing and yet it always accumulates hair from god knows where. My advise when you can is to just wrap it with new cloth which is what I will do.

[Jackson42]

I own its sister ship, BK06090. I'd be happy to share notes and stories!

[atl530i]

Cool project.

[Trasportador]

Coming along nicely Brent. You really should keep the mpars. Subscribed

[BleedsBlue]

Thanks y'all.

Sorry for the freakin' novel, the updates will be far more concise, I promise

Nice job, these old M5's are too nice to be allowed to fade away. I like how you said the rear sub frame mounts just "went in". Its a pretty big job and I need to do mine some time soon.

I'm really just an E34 fan, but agreed that the handbuilt cars deserve to be saved when possible.

I honestly found the subframe bushings to be cake, and this coming from an E36, which requires dropping the subframe. I used thick metal pipe caps (one at first, then two) between the OE bushing and the chassis, put a jack under the subframe, and hit the bushing housing with a torch for 1-2 mins and the bushing started creaking and sliding out. Install was only easy because poly slides in, if I went OEM I would have needed a press of some sort most likely. As is, on jack stands I was done in 2 hours.

Subscribed. Looks like us Colorado guys need to schedule a meet some time. Can't wait to see your progress and let me know if you need help with anything.

-Greg

We do need to get drinks sometime. I'm planning on the 4 Corners this year for sure, too. And don't worry, if I ever get stuck I'll come to you for one of your over-engineered custom tools that will probably save me hours of blood, sweat, and tears. I think my trailing arm bearings are in good shape, but if they ever go, I would want to rent or buy your tool for sure!

I own its sister ship, BK06090. I'd be happy to share notes and stories!

Awesome! What color combo is she? Any pictures?

Cool project.

Your red car serves as inspiration for what mine might eventually look like after a respray and mucho mas dinero

Coming along nicely Brent. You really should keep the mpars. Subscribed

Thanks Brent

The Mpars are already gone! I think they look best on a wide-grille E34, and they weren't that sexy muted E34-specific grey, and they made my brakes look small IMHO. Turbines will look the business, especially when I repaint the lower trim black.

[Grim Reaper]

Right on.

Sub'd for future and proper M5 entertainment.

[Leonator134]

Sweet, great project. Dig it!

Leo

[TGreene]

Sweet.

[Tre0Tre34]

I honestly found the subframe bushings to be cake, and this coming from an E36, which requires dropping the subframe. I used thick metal pipe caps (one at first, then two) between the OE bushing and the chassis, put a jack under the subframe, and hit the bushing housing with a torch for 1-2 mins and the bushing started creaking and sliding out. Install was only easy because poly slides in, if I went OEM I would have needed a press of some sort most likely. As is, on jack stands I was done in 2 hours.

Kinda gives me hope that my bushings won't be as bad to swap as I have been assuming... Though I will probably still wait till spring to do along with new struts and rear top mounts.

We do need to get drinks sometime. I'm planning on the 4 Corners this year for sure, too. And don't worry, if I ever get stuck I'll come to you for one of your over-engineered custom tools that will probably save me hours of blood, sweat, and tears. I think my trailing arm bearings are in good shape, but if they ever go, I would want to rent or buy your tool for sure!

most definitely. I'm in the Tech Center, but it's whatever really.

[Steve547i]

Very cool to see you restore this m5. Keep the updates coming.

[BleedsBlue]

Kinda gives me hope that my bushings won't be as bad to swap as I have been assuming... Though I will probably still wait till spring to do along with new struts and rear top mounts.

most definitely. I'm in the Tech Center, but it's whatever really.

Let me know if you want a hand! I think we're all within about an hour or two drive of each other, not too bad.

[Tre0Tre34]

Thank you for the offer! Should be able to get it handled, but I'll definitely keep it in mind.

where abouts are you in the CO?

[BleedsBlue]

Herp derp. As I mentioned, for some reason I've always hated the rear spoiler on these cars. My non-original (WBA-vin) trunk lid also had a nice patch of rest under the driver side of the spoiler. I finally found a clean Alpine spoiler-less trunklid, but in San Diego (from member AKinghorn's partout). Thankfully, I've got a friend that drives out there and back here regularly, so some nice beers later...

I stripped the spoilerless trunk lid, and then started stripping my current lid. Interesting components of the wiring harness including my favorite electrical part, INSULATED BUTT CONNECTORS, but it still works.


The cardboard was crucial, as the trunk is super awkward to lift off (and then reinstall) alone.


Can't find a direct butt-shot from before, but this is the rear end before:


Now, 10x better in my opinion:



I also figured out (preeeetty simple) how to adjust the trunk so that it fits perfectly when closed. The new (old) lid also has "poppers" that help raise the lid when released, which my old lid did not. Other than freezing my KahJones off, I'm pretty happy.

Thank you for the offer! Should be able to get it handled, but I'll definitely keep it in mind.

where abouts are you in the CO?

I'm in the Louisville area, though I'm regularly in Boulder/Denver etc.

[NikosX]

Impressive work sir.

[Shock(/\)ave]

I'm another Brent (in CO) and I bought M5 BK06091 from a close friend in April 2014.

Brent! It's great to see you on these boards man!

The car had 220k on it and was a mess, but the engine had an essentially zero-miles rebuilt head w/ S50B32 tensioner, good bottom end, and perfectly functioning driveline. Since I basically bought the car for the price of a working M5 drivetrain and the E34 M5 was on my automotive bucket list, I was able to overlook the mileage and issues (primarily suspension wear and cosmetics).

So you could easily part the car out, keep the S38B36 to stuff into a different shell, and still come out ahead? That E34 platform had better be good to you.

Completely irrationally, to fund this car I sold a dynamite Nissan B13 SE-R w/ factory sunroof delete, manual seats and windows, and a built SR20 (near 200fwhp, 2450 lbs) that I rescued from a buddy's yard, rebuilt the front end, and had running reliably for $800 total; and a '99 Saab 9-3 "stage 5" I bought built for far less than the cost of modifications, which had a dead-reliable (seriously) 300whp in a 3,000 lb hatchback shell. Both of these cars spank the M5 in a straight line, but neither were half as cool, either. Thankfully the SE-R stayed local and one of my best friends bought the Slaab.

Having owned and driven a good one for a season now, I completely get it. I wanted a long term 3 season daily driver, something I could enjoy for at least a decade as long as it didn't get exposed to our winter roads, which offered performance, looks, and practicality without compromises. Without getting into too much detail (this is your thread, not mine) I chose an E34 M5 over an E39 M5 (styling won out here), W124 500E (I just can't live with an automatic), W201 190E 2.3-16 (I bought an E30 M3 instead)... and that was about it for my choices as all others had serious compromises.

This M5 was delivered with a light silver-grey interior, but a few owners ago it was swapped (mostly successfully) to black with Mitsubishi Evo 8 or 9 leather Recaros.

How 'bout sharing a few pictures of your interior? I'd like to see what those seats look like.

...this will never be a numbers-matching M5 again, but at the very least, I hope to restore it to an extent that it can soldier on for many more years to come.

If the car still has its original drivetrain, it's still numbers matching.

I decided I would winterize the M5 in preparation for the 2014/15 snowboarding and daily driving season, rather than buy a third car.

You passed up a justifiable opportunity to buy a third car? What's wrong with you?

Since the E34 M5 factory winter wheel option was 16x7 Style 5s (et20 IIRC), I picked up a beat set of much more common E38 16x8s and added Blizzak WS80s in 215 width. Annoyingly, for the same price as the beat wheels I bought on eBay, someone local to me sold a beautiful refinished set of the same wheels, but I just missed 'em.

I've missed amazing deals on cars as well as rare parts by minutes several times in the past. It really bothers me when it happens, but I've been the lucky one enough times when it really mattered that I'm not complaining.

As I mentioned, for some reason I've always hated the rear spoiler on these cars.

I don't hate them like you do, but I would prefer not having one on my car. It matches the E30 M3 and it was delivered from the factory with one, though, so it's staying put.

- - - Updated - - -

As for your failing clear coat, while I unfortunately won't be able to provide you with any pictures of this process, here are the written details:

1.) Begin by very thoroughly washing affected panels. Once the panels are clean, clay bar them to remove any contaminants which have embedded into the paint.

2.) Using a fresh razor blade held on a steep angle to the paint's surface, remove any clear coat which has lifted from the base coat, but has not yet flaked off. Take your time with this process and use a light touch, ensuring that you never allow the corners of the blade to dig into the paint, and that you are never pushing the blade into the base coat. If you're doing this correctly, the blade should slide effortlessly over the base coat, only catching the clear coat. This can take hours and requires patience, a steady hand, and excellent lighting.

3.) With all loosened clear coat removed, if you're confident enough with the razor blade you may hold it perpendicular to the edges of the remaining clear coat and shave them to taper them down toward the base coat.

4.) Wash the affected panels again to remove any loose clear coat bits off of them.

5.) Using a flexible sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the clear coat to knock down the raised edges against the base coat. Start with 800 grit paper and keep it to the clear coat, moistening the paint with a 5:1 mixture of water and automotive soap from a spray bottle to keep it lubricated (quick detailing spray works well, too, but is more costly). Periodically wipe the area with a microfiber cloth, and rinse your paper in a bucket of fresh water. Don't try to do too much with this step! You just want to remove the worst of the edges, and using any coarser a paper is more likely to lead to inadvertent exposure of the primer.

6.) Switch to 1000 grit paper and sand each entire panel using the same process as above.

7.) Wash the panels again, this time using Dawn (or similar) dish detergent. Follow the wash with a wipe down using 99% isopropyl alcohol.

8.) Carefully mask off any areas you don't want painted, then spray fresh clear coat over each entire panel. Apply the first thin coat almost entirely to the exposed base coat, avoiding the existing clear coat as much as possible. Apply at least two more thin coats of clear coat after each dries.

9.) With the paint fully dry, wet sand the panels again, going from 800 grit paper, to 1000 grit paper, then 1500 grit paper using the same process as before.

10.) Wash the panels with dish detergent and isopropyl alcohol, then apply two to three more coats of clear coat.

11.) Wait a few days, then wash (normally this time with automotive soap) and wet sand the panels with 1000, 1500, and finally 2000 grit paper.

If you don't skimp on the preparation work and have a decent environment for painting in, you'll be amazed at the final results.

[BleedsBlue]

Thank you to all for following! In a weird cyclical effect, this thread is inspiring me

I've been a busy boy, and have begun pulling the trigger on more parts.

Being delivered today:
-Two naked 17x8 M Systems (thanks Trevor)
-Two BNIB Lemforder UCAs (thanks Kevin)
-New OEM illuminated shift knob w/ the center ///M emblem*

*Current knob is incorrect un-illuminated part. I have a guy converting a tri-color stripe knob emblem from un-illuminated to illuminated, since the original illuminated version of this emblem was superseded with the modern center ///M, but the center ///M isn't correct for the E34 M5. I guess he takes the opaque emblems and painstakingly scrapes the paint off the bottom.

In the mail:
-OEM fog light covers (I don't use fogs, and don't have any on the car)

Pending purchases:
-Either a full set of used bare M Systems (and keep one of Trevor's as a spare, sell the other)
-OR 2x new 36112226707... evil man maths says this option
-Summer tires
-Turbine covers (from Finland, if it works out, otherwise I'll still be looking)
-Moosehead UCABs + Lemforder E31 LCAs
-OEM M5 trunk net (no idea why mine is gone)

On the radar:
-Either reman'd/used unit, or send my drive shaft out to a local shop to be rebuilt + new CSB, hopefully cure the driveline clunk finally
-OEM R134a retrofit kit + refrigerant service

Brent! It's great to see you on these boards man!

You too, Paul!

So you could easily part the car out, keep the S38B36 to stuff into a different shell, and still come out ahead? That E34 platform had better be good to you.

At one point, this was true, but I'm deeper into it financially now and rapidly approaching the cost of an E34 M5 in perfect mechanical shape! My only hope to "get my money out" would be for the market to get stronger and to keep it long-term. Both desirable!

Having owned and driven a good one for a season now, I completely get it. I wanted a long term 3 season daily driver, something I could enjoy for at least a decade as long as it didn't get exposed to our winter roads, which offered performance, looks, and practicality without compromises. Without getting into too much detail (this is your thread, not mine) I chose an E34 M5 over an E39 M5 (styling won out here), W124 500E (I just can't live with an automatic), W201 190E 2.3-16 (I bought an E30 M3 instead)... and that was about it for my choices as all others had serious compromises.

This was meant to be a short (1-2 year) experience, to check off a box on my automotive dream list, but I've fallen pretty hard for the car now. I don't see any real competitors, either.

How 'bout sharing a few pictures of your interior? I'd like to see what those seats look like.

Can do, nothing on the computer or phone now, but can do. I really think they look too modern, and will replace with SRDs eventually.

If the car still has its original drivetrain, it's still numbers matching.

Funny you mention this: discussing the mileage with the P.O. (Roland) recently, he brought up his suspicion that the car has had a replacement drivetrain installed at some point. Whether the original was rebuilt, or a new unit swapped in, I have no idea--but that might explain my problem-free transmission, which I couldn't believe had 225k miles. And apparently the S38's bottom end was in perfect shape as of 220k chassis miles, as well. Not sure how to check all of this without the missing records in hand.

You passed up a justifiable opportunity to buy a third car? What's wrong with you?

No comment

I've missed amazing deals on cars as well as rare parts by minutes several times in the past. It really bothers me when it happens, but I've been the lucky one enough times when it really mattered that I'm not complaining.

I shouldn't complain about missed deals ever, since my 911 turned out to be an absolute steal.

I don't hate them like you do, but I would prefer not having one on my car. It matches the E30 M3 and it was delivered from the factory with one, though, so it's staying put.

That Avus, man... Amazing. Cosmetically, the only combo even close is Grunt's old Sebring.

As for your failing clear coat, while I unfortunately won't be able to provide you with any pictures of this process, here are the written details:

1.) Begin by very thoroughly washing affected panels. Once the panels are clean, clay bar them to remove any contaminants which have embedded into the paint.

2.) Using a fresh razor blade held on a steep angle to the paint's surface, remove any clear coat which has lifted from the base coat, but has not yet flaked off. Take your time with this process and use a light touch, ensuring that you never allow the corners of the blade to dig into the paint, and that you are never pushing the blade into the base coat. If you're doing this correctly, the blade should slide effortlessly over the base coat, only catching the clear coat. This can take hours and requires patience, a steady hand, and excellent lighting.

3.) With all loosened clear coat removed, if you're confident enough with the razor blade you may hold it perpendicular to the edges of the remaining clear coat and shave them to taper them down toward the base coat.

4.) Wash the affected panels again to remove any loose clear coat bits off of them.

5.) Using a flexible sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the clear coat to knock down the raised edges against the base coat. Start with 800 grit paper and keep it to the clear coat, moistening the paint with a 5:1 mixture of water and automotive soap from a spray bottle to keep it lubricated (quick detailing spray works well, too, but is more costly). Periodically wipe the area with a microfiber cloth, and rinse your paper in a bucket of fresh water. Don't try to do too much with this step! You just want to remove the worst of the edges, and using any coarser a paper is more likely to lead to inadvertent exposure of the primer.

6.) Switch to 1000 grit paper and sand each entire panel using the same process as above.

7.) Wash the panels again, this time using Dawn (or similar) dish detergent. Follow the wash with a wipe down using 99% isopropyl alcohol.

8.) Carefully mask off any areas you don't want painted, then spray fresh clear coat over each entire panel. Apply the first thin coat almost entirely to the exposed base coat, avoiding the existing clear coat as much as possible. Apply at least two more thin coats of clear coat after each dries.

9.) With the paint fully dry, wet sand the panels again, going from 800 grit paper, to 1000 grit paper, then 1500 grit paper using the same process as before.

10.) Wash the panels with dish detergent and isopropyl alcohol, then apply two to three more coats of clear coat.

11.) Wait a few days, then wash (normally this time with automotive soap) and wet sand the panels with 1000, 1500, and finally 2000 grit paper.

If you don't skimp on the preparation work and have a decent environment for painting in, you'll be amazed at the final results.

Thank you from me and the board for this detailed procedure, sir! This sounds promising. I am going to price-shop a full respray before tackling anything, since I also have creeping door rust in the typical E34 spot, faded/mismatched paint, and little fender/body dings.

If I decide the respray has to wait, I'll be attempting this procedure and a fix/patch on the lower body panel rust. Both terrify me as an inexperienced auto body guy!

[WERDNA1975]

Very nice !!! Glad to see this car being saved. I considered buying it for a project ,but I got a beat up old E30 cabrio from some old folk in Boulder instead. E34 M5s are the Business !!!

[linklaterdavid]

Awesome! Subscribed :-)

[BleedsBlue]

Wrenching time lately is being taken up by my mother's new E46 xi Touring Sport Package, just little things we knew about before buying. Cool car!

Then this week I'm doing front suspension work on the GF's S60R. Also been helping my dad with finishing touches on his basement/kitchen remodel, necessitated by the flood a year ago.

Changes to my above planning post, due to a stricter commitment to the house fund come fall. Cars just don't hold a candle to a house, when you're coming from years of apartment living.

Delivered Friday last week:
-Two naked 17x8 M Systems
-Two BNIB Lemforder UCAs
-New OEM illuminated shift knob w/ the center ///M emblem

The shift knob is cool, redder illumination than I expected, but it was nice to find the plug under the center console and that it all worked perfectly. Bad news is I found why my M5 shift cover plate is loose, one of the tabs at the back (closest to driver) is snapped. DAGNABBIT.

In the mail:
-OEM fog light covers (still)
-Two more naked 8J M Systems (thanks Andy) w/ tires
-This thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151452741274

I have 2.5 (soon to be 3) extra sets of wheels/tires, and I'm running out of room. One set is actually an extra from my mom's Touring, that the P.O. needs to come pick up. I'm just going to buy another pair of tires and I'll have naked M Systems with good tires for about what I sold my M-Pars for. Unfortunately my line on Turbines fell through, so I'm still looking.

Just purchased:
-OEM R134a Retrofit Kit (Sunday was HOT)
-OEM R rear seat belt cover thing
-OEM trunk net cancelled, the M5 P/N is NLA, and I don't know how the regular E34 net attaches
-OEM glovebox absorbed cancelled for now, the M5 P/N is NLA, the superseding P/N is at least $60!

On the mid-range radar:
-Drive shaft + new CSB, not ready to spend money on this until I diagnose further
-Moosehead UCABs & E31 LCAs, decided to go for A/C first
-Lemf tie rods
-Turbine covers, or Throwing Stars I GUESS if I have to settle

Long-range radar:
-Feels like $1mil of parts. But not really, car is looking and running great aside from the front suspension and cosmetics.

Very nice !!! Glad to see this car being saved. I considered buying it for a project ,but I got a beat up old E30 cabrio from some old folk in Boulder instead. E34 M5s are the Business !!!

Nice! You ever make it to Lafayette C&C? It's a good show.

Awesome! Subscribed :-)

Watch out for those Turbine cap thieves!

[BleedsBlue]

Better than words? Pictars.

These are the Recaros, I always forget if they are Evo 8 or 9. Bleh, I think SRDs are lighter, too.


2 M Systems last week + 2 M Systems today (thanks PorscheH6) = a full set!



Now, two more tires and those unobtanium Turbine covers.

I found out the E36 trunk net should work. Trying to decide between a new glovebox strut @ $60, or the hilarious prospect of getting a shop to rebuild my existing glovebox strut.