The ABS computer needs to see a load across its output to the traction control throttle body before it enables ABS. The fix is described in this thread. On my car, the wires going to the "auxilary throttle position motor" from the ABS computer were thick gauge, black/brown/yellow (pin 12) and black/green/yellow (pin 13). I snipped them a few inches after the ABS computer connector and installed a 10W 10ohm resistor across those two wires. The previously-linked thread specifies a 3W 10ohm resistor but my local Radio Shack only had 10W or 1W so I went big.
The guys in this thread were extremely helpful in getting INPA working and establishing communication with the ABS computer and pump so I could figure out what errors would holding me out.
Any swap using the 4-channel ABS would potentially need it.
I installed upper LATCH tethers in my car to carry a car seat.
Installing LATCH car seat tethers in an E36
I went RallyCrossing this weekend.
We had a thaw here over the past few days and it was pure mud. Three cars got stuck, one of which was the 4x4 pickup they sent out to get the first Subaru unstuck. The other was another E36 on Blizzaks.
I spent most of the time dragging my undercarriage, but it was a blast.
Last edited by Laminar; 11-08-2021 at 10:04 PM.
Not sure if it's just me, but almost all of your earlier pictures don't load
Yeah, Imgur blocked bimmerforums. I'll have to go back and re-host those pics myself.
- - - Updated - - -
Okay, pics should be working now.
I'm still getting nothing on recent pics?
Can you see either of these:
A lot of workplaces stupidly block DropBox.
They all work for me now brotha
Mike, I'm seeing the baby car seat but not the second one. Maybe it's on my end.
The second one is hosted on Dropbox. Are you at work or at home? Some work filters consider Dropbox "file sharing."
Work. We must be blocking Dropbox. Thanks for straightening me out.
Here's an interesting turn of events. I have been driving my car for 10 months and have right around 2000 miles on it. The clutch started slipping when cold last month and a couple weeks ago it got really bad, so I dropped the transmission yesterday and found this:
The friction plate is toast and its wear is very uneven. both the flywheel and pressure plate are badly pitted and probably ruined.
The clutch was rated for 370hp, and at best I'm making a handful above the stock Explorer 215. This kit is supposed to have a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty, but I have zero faith in them backing up this product after they denied my warranty claim when the throw-out bearing died last year.
I have an email out to their tech support now. If they fail to follow through I'll talk brand and source.
I'm giving them a chance to make it right. If they fall through (probably), I'll post up brands, vendors, and more details.
Taking the flywheel to a local shop today to see if they can make a new insert for it. Otherwise it's garbage.
In the meantime, I made a couple of videos. Looking back, it's kind of funny how much I hated the clutch from the very first drive.
Last edited by Laminar; 03-09-2016 at 09:37 AM.
Haven't heard back yet. I'll give them to the end of the week. Low expectations.
No worries, they don't even sell the shit I got on Summit.
I'm running a Centerforce pressure plate and clutch plate i got off a guy on corner-carvers 8-9 years ago with a billet steel flywheel off someone else on ebay. It's been fine. I had also used a Spec 2 piece steel flywheel and stock 5.0 clutch kit on my old 351W swapped Fox mustang. It too was trouble-free. The only issue I've had with
the BMW was finding the right adjustment between full release and no slippage. I've had to adjust it a little on the free play side so the clutch is fully engaged with my
foot off the pedal. It makes it a bit annoying having to force the shifter after ,say, waiting at a red light.
edit: Whoops, I just wandered to the garage to double check my info and I'm only using a stock clutch in the BMW.
Last edited by MvnTgt; 03-09-2016 at 07:34 PM. Reason: correcting clutch info
1993 BMW e36 318is with a (mostly) completed SBF 5.0/T5 swap
TFS Street Heat heads (TFS 170 tw) with upgraded dual valve spring kit
TFS Street Heat Intake w/70mm TB and EGR delete spacer (fits under hood)
TFS Stage 1 camshaft
MS2-Extra controlling fuel and spark
It goes...ok. :-)
Yeah, I ordered Centerforce friction and pressure plates and tried to pick up a steel flywheel tonight but AutoZone's site was wrong and the location didn't have any in stock. I'll grab one tomorrow along with the tailshaft housing with its fresh bushing and seal and then I can put the transmission back in.
Went out to the garage last night to replace the weeping fuel line.
Awesome. That just cost me $90.
I filmed most of this last summer but finally got around to putting it all together.
There's a decent look in the engine bay and under the car, along with some exhaust noises.
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