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Thread: Laminar's M3 5.0 swap: Fünf-Null

  1. #276
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    Took a little break from engine stuff to paint the race wheels, definitely a necessary task.







    I modified the clutch slave bracket last night to get the slave as tight to the trans as possible. I got the engine reinstalled today, I'm ready to start mocking up the driver's side header. This one's going to be...interesting.




  2. #277
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    Love the color!

  3. #278
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    All sorts of hackery going on in the garage.

    I returned the collector I had previously purchased (I ordered qty 2 of what looked like it might work) and got a different one.



    This one lands at a perfect angle and fits without hitting the clutch fork, fuel lines, clutch line, bellhousing, or fuel filter cover.



    Installed the coilover on one side, along with a new wheel bearing. The old one was toast. I also did solid Delrin lollipop bushings. Pulling the old bushing off with a crank balancer puller actually somehow worked, as did pulling the inner bearing race with a broken pully puller, a bolt, a zip tie, and a block of wood.










  4. #279
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    Starting to look like a 'race' car...coilovers and solid bushings....yum!

  5. #280
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    Progress from this weekend - driver's side header is almost done! I got it mocked up from flange to collector in about 3.5 hours.







    Clearance to the steering shaft was tight but doable. I will probably have to pull the shaft out to install the header, but at least the header doesn't have to go around it. Plenty of room between the primaries and the brake lines, though I still might make a heat shield.

    I pulled the header out and welded as much of the primaries as possible, then pulled it apart and finished fully welding. Then it went back together, back into the car, and I tacked the slip joints and the flanges. Next pull I'll fully weld it and then both headers will be done.



    Next job was to replace the trans crossmember. Here's what I made during the original swap, I basically connected angle iron to the stock V6 Mustang rubber mount:



    I bought a poly mount that bolts to the T5, then redid the brace including clearance for the header. It's 3/16" x 4" steel, the same 20-foot-long piece I've been using this whole time.



    Then added a little bit of bracing to it.





    I think I'm about ready to make a list on a piece of cardboard so I can get this wrapped up. Next autocross is in 14 days.

    - - - Updated - - -

    So I used this 10-piece tubing kit from Speedway:



    Plus 5 Patriot part number H7019 tight radius J-bends.



    And in the end I had three total bends left over.

  6. #281
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    Impressive work...

  7. #282
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    Hallelujah. The header can actually be pulled out the bottom of the car. I figured I'd have to pull the engine to get it out.



    I did decide to attach the collector straight to the header, which made things monumentally more difficult, but I didn't want a bajillion flanges on the exhaust.


  8. #283
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    Collectors are on. 19.7" long, 3" diameter per Pipemax. This morning I managed to drill and tack one O2 bung, I'll get the other tonight hopefully. I have three bolt flanges that reduce it down to 2-1/4" for the rest of the way back. Pipemax says the x-pipe should be 79.5" behind the primaries, which puts it basically right before the muffler. This will be fun to fit up.





    The list:


  9. #284
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    O2 bungs in place.



    Slip joint retainers started.


  10. #285
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    Big weekend, lots done.

    Headers finished.



    Coated



    And wrapped



    Threw a new boot in the shifter hole, the old was was pretty torn up.



    Made a junkyard run and found a fan in a Lincoln Zephyr that looks like it could work for me. I trimmed the shroud a bit and it covers the radiator nicely. It's a 20" fan vs. the 16" eBay POS, and I think I can set it up as a puller. It has a built in PWM controller that I have to decide how I want to control - Megasquirt can do generic PWM outputs based on a couple of variables, but that's not directly integrated with the fan function.



    I fit up the upper intake, I knew the taller valve covers would cause issues, but it only required some minor PCV rerouting and modification of one hose nipple. It used to be a tee that I had capped on one end, so I cut it down and welded it closed so that it would clear the valve cover.



    And...the engine is back in! Hopefully for the last time.



    Next up is relocating the coil packs since they can't sit on the valve covers anymore. Then build a catback, then slam everything back together in hopes of having it ready for Sunday.

  11. #286
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    Nice work!
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)ş(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)ş(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  12. #287
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    Oh yeah, forgot this part. I weighed the engine/trans combo. No fluids, but complete with alternator/intake/TB/oil cooler, etc. and with the new aluminum heads.



    Total? 552lbs.



    Adding the power steering pump, reservoir, bracket, and lines adds another 20lbs. Going back to iron heads would add another 50lbs.

    For comparison, Vorshlag weighed an LS1/T56 combo with accessories (and wiring harness) at 609lbs.

  13. #288
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    Late night last night, got a lot done. Adjusted the washers between the front shocks and spindles to bring camber down to something reasonable. The camber plates go up to -2.0 deg, but I want to run somewhere between -3 and -4, so I started with two washers and that was more than -3 deg when the camber plates were set to 0, so I took a washer out.

    Hooked up the passenger side sway bar endlink.

    Hooked up the starter.

    Wired up the O2 sensors, miraculously I didn't have to extend any wiring.

    Got the dipstick in place. The Canfield heads have raised exhaust ports, and the dipstick is designed to bolt onto an exhaust stud, so the stud was now too high. I cut and raised it up, only to find that because I'm using the spread bolt pattern on the flange, I can't get a spark plug socket on the plug if the stud is installed where it's supposed to be. So I moved it over one spot, then bent up the dipstick bracket to fit.



    Next was securing the coils. The coils used to be right on top of the valve covers, but with the taller valve covers to clear the Scorpion rockers, that's no longer an option. I'm running LS coils on the stock brackets with the stock wiring harness with a couple of Weatherpak connectors between the engine harness and coil harness. I managed to locate the coils such that I don't need to make any modifications to the engine or coil wiring harnesses, and I can actually reuse 6 of my 8 current plug wires.

    I started by slicing up the stock coil bracket. I considering building a new bracket, but since these already had openings for the coils and tapped holes in the right location, it made more sense to modify these.



    I tacked them together to test fit:



    Looks good so far.





    Wired up:



    The other side was going to be a bit trickier as the headers are a bit higher and the intake tubing passes right there. I split the bracket into two sections, and was able to maintain all of the stock wiring.







    I'll need to make two new plug wires with 90 degree boots to finalize the ignition setup. Next step is building the header-back exhaust.
    Last edited by Laminar; 05-30-2018 at 10:05 AM.

  14. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
    Oh yeah, forgot this part. I weighed the engine/trans combo. No fluids, but complete with alternator/intake/TB/oil cooler, etc. and with the new aluminum heads.



    Total? 552lbs.



    Adding the power steering pump, reservoir, bracket, and lines adds another 20lbs. Going back to iron heads would add another 50lbs.

    For comparison, Vorshlag weighed an LS1/T56 combo with accessories (and wiring harness) at 609lbs.
    This is good information! Thanks for posting...

  15. #290
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    Ignition system is 100% complete. Got the brackets and coils installed. I loomed and taped the wiring and secured it in place. I was able to reuse 6 of my 8 plug wires, so I only had to make two more, using 90 deg plug boots.





    Got the driveshaft installed last night, then started on the header-back portion of the exhaust. I'm going to try and repurpose as much of the old exhaust as I can. When I originally put this car together, I overbought on a few things to make sure I had room to grow - 36lb injectors can support more than enough horsepower to split the block. The 75mm throttle body will do the same. And the dual 2-1/4" exhaust is good for 350-400hp.









    That took longer than I'd like to admit. The center of the x-pipe is at 80" behind the primaries as recommended by PipeMax. Really, getting the muffler mounted was the hard part, now I just need to connect the x-pipe to the headers, which is just a couple of bends and shouldn't be too bad. The list is getting shorter.

    Last edited by Laminar; 05-31-2018 at 09:18 AM.

  16. #291
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    Upper intake is on. Trans wiring is hooked up. Throttle cable, PCV, MAP, etc. all connected.


  17. #292
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    79 323i, 94 325is, 13 M3
    That's a lot of work there. Good idea getting it knocked out before summer hits and it's beastly in the garage.

    I did the dual exhaust thing this winter, and no longer how long it took you, I guarantee it took me longer. I had to fab up at least 8 bends to get it in there, maybe 10, I lost track.

    Thanks for weighing the motor. Damnit though, I had been kidding myself my motor was 525# with the iron heads sans accessories. I won't be down to that until I install the TW aluminum top end. Either way, we're under the stock weight, which is amazing.

    MS runs off MAP not MAF, right? How much trouble will it be to re-tune for the new VE?
    Last edited by JBasham; 05-31-2018 at 05:13 PM.
    If God meant for man to motor-swap LS engines into track cars, He wouldn't have created Corvettes.

  18. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBasham View Post
    MS runs off MAP not MAF, right? How much trouble will it be to re-tune for the new VE?
    I'm weird. I started and initially got it dialed in with MAP. But then I grabbed a MAF off of a junkyard Explorer and hooked that up. Because I didn't have a valid MAF curve, I set it up as a dual table design that could blend between MAP and MAF, and then ended up setting the blend to 0% MAP. So the engine technically runs on the MAF, but wiht the MAF sensor as the load variable for a VE table instead of a straight through a mass air curve. Makes total sense, right? In the end, my engine response was way snappier and I was able to take out a ton of acceleration enrichment because the ECU was reacting much more quickly to the MAF than it was to the MAP signal.

  19. #294
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    Big weekend. Started Friday with finishing the exhaust.







    Finalized coil installation with a couple of heatshields.





    Got the accessories installed including modifying the PS reservoir location due to taller valve covers.



    Got the radiator in place. I tried to fit up the new puller fan/shroud but it was touching the water pump pulley and just wasn't going to work without relocating the radiator a bit, and I didn't have time to dig into that so I stuck with the old shroud/fan setup.



    Got the intake and part of the front end thrown on.



    Then I filled oil, trans fluid, and power steering fluid. I had my wife help bleed the clutch earlier in the evening, which seemed to work well.

    By now it was about 2:30am so I called it a night.

    The next morning, I was back at it, the car was ready to start. At first it would fire and immediately die, turns out I timed the cam sensor based off of the #5 cylinder instead of the #1 cylinder. I think I need to turn in my "Ford guy" card for that one.

    Once that was fixed, it would start, but it seemed to be running super rich and was chugging quite a bit. It required at least 15% throttle to even stay running. My eyes were watering from all of the fuel. I made some adjustments (like taking 50% fuel out of every cell in the table) and suddenly it started right up. With some more dialing in, it idled and revved well (it's loud). I was able to drive up and down the driveway, so the drivetrain seems to be working. But I have a coolant leak from somewhere up front, and the steering shaft it hitting something. So I called it a day and drove a friend's car at the race yesterday.

    Here's a quick video of it running:
    https://www.instagram.com/p/BjiJDf9F24x/

    So I need to get the leak and steering fixed, then I can start dialing in the tune. The next deadline is the Evo driving school at the end of this month. Gotta get it shaken down by then.

  20. #295
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    Grand progress! I swear you appear to be working on this car 24/7...impressive.

    Don't think I've seen a crossover so far to the rear of the car. Old school balance pipe would be to install it where the (cheap) paint stopped burning off the exhaust...typically right near the front u-joint.

  21. #296
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    Yeah I saw all sorts of "where the paint burns off" or "where the crayon stops melting" stuff online but PipeMax told me 79" behind the end of the primaries for an X-Pipe. It wanted the h-pipe 19.7" behind the primaries, exactly at the end of the header collectors, which would be a more traditional location for a crossover. I couldn't find any other math-based answers anywhere else on the internet, so I blindly went with PipeMax.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Grand progress! I swear you appear to be working on this car 24/7...impressive.
    I sneaked into the garage last night to fiddle with the steering shaft and my wife found me, then begged for one "garage-free" night.

  22. #297
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    Coolant leak fixed, it was just a loose hose clamp on the bypass hose. The locknut on the steering shaft coupler is what's hitting the header. I ordered a new coupler without the rubber guibo and may modify it a bit for more clearance where the nut sits.

    Broke out the laser pointers last night and got the front toe close enough to start road tuning this weekend.


  23. #298
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    First test drive on Saturday went well, no breakdowns! After about 20 minutes of autotune the thing was pretty dialed in and I did a couple of full throttle pulls up to the current 6100rpm rev limiter. It pulls hard all the way up, no 4500rpm dropoff like I'm used to.

    It was running a bit hot - 215-218 degrees in stop and go traffic, where it used to sit around 200, which is where the fan comes on. I know the shroud is poorly installed and leaking a ton of air and there may still be a bubble or two in the coolant that I need to burp out. I ordered a pair of 9" fans from Summit, I need to build a new shroud and install those as pullers, so I'm not going to mess with the current shroud.

    Also it's loud - I already ordered a pair of resonators I'll throw in to tame it a bit.

    I put it on the summer wheels/tires for the test drive. I figured I probably shouldn't be doing full throttle runs on the 205 Blizzaks.



    Quick screenshot with Tunerstudio's estimated power/torque - 301hp/325tq at the wheels should be about 354/382 at the crank. Tunerstudio calculates power based on speed increase vs weight, and I had the car loaded with tools, jack, and two extra wheels/tires, so the power should be an underestimate. AFR was 13.2-13.5, timing was around 33 degrees, and the engine was hot. Those are all of the excuses I can think of right now!

    I'm excited to continue dialing this in and then get it on a dyno.



    New bump stops and steering coupler arrive today. I'll drop the rear a bit when I throw the bump stops in, the front may need to drop a bit, too.
    Last edited by Laminar; 06-11-2018 at 10:58 AM.

  24. #299
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    Oh, and the strut tower bar fits even after relocating the power steering reservoir, which is a relief as I didn't think about it at all as I haphazardly shoved the reservoir where it'd fit.


  25. #300
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    Nice work! Congrats, it must be a riot now!
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)ş(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)ş(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

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