How about a build thread thread? Let's call it my Final Chapter and my Nephews first

[toomann]

Looking good. Kinda tight in the shop though?

[cyclops2]

Very nice progress.. Love the attention that you are giving her.

Looking good. Kinda tight in the shop though?

Thanks guys! I don't have OCD in any other aspects of my life, but seem to during vehicle projects. But I enjoy it and it is therapeutic. I like to make everything "right". Now what exactly "right" is is up for debate...lol

yeah, shop is tight fit. We lay sideways when working in wheel well area and getting the door panels out was actually tricky/pain. We decided yesterday to not reinstall the door panels until we get the car out of the garage............and that goal is by next Sunday (3/15)....we shall see.

Anyway, keep those cards and letters coming! lol

[cyclops2]

So after a couple days off, we got back at it tonight. So tonight we worked on the driver side front suspension. The paint work and detailing was finished up a couple days ago, so today we could begin the assembly. So we installed the wheel well liner, Bilstein strut, new control arms, new sway bar link, mounted the wheel spindle. We had already installed new sway bar bushings.

Here are some pictures:

Suspension components repainted black:




Everything painted and ready to go:




Suspension loosely in place.




The struts are Bilstien HD sports which I pulled from a pick-and-pull yard during "Nephew #1". The springs are Vogtland sport springs with 1.4" lowering that I had installed in 2006 on KYB struts. The springs have been powder coated "BMW blue". The strut was rebuilt with all new rubber.




Tomorrow we'll install the center link and brake system. Need to complete the paint work on the passenger side before we can begin the suspension and brake assembly there.

[cyclops2]

Made a little more progress tonight. Installed the new center link and tie rods, installed new lower control arm/wishbone. Assembled the powder coated calipers. Wired wheeled the painted rotors and wiped off with acetone. So now the driver side front suspension (loose fit) and brake system is installed.

On passenger side, sprayed primer on black suspension components.

Slow going....but going!

Friday will torque the driver side front suspension (except control arm bushing). Will spray paint and install anti-rattle clips. Will finish spraying the front passenger side black and install windshield washer pump and wheel well liner.

Here are a few pictures. It is very hard to get good pictures because the shop is tight so I am very close and it is at night and the lighting is poor. But you can see the progress.

If there are ideas or questions, let me know.


Primer on passsenger side front wheel well:





Nearly completed driver side front suspension and braking system:






Probably get wheels on it Monday. Still have a lot to do to get there and a lot to do even with wheels on! Excited about progress, it has been a long time.

[daytonatrbo]

Great work Cyclops!

since you took the panel out of the door, i have a question, is it possible for me to just buy a front door without the double pane glass, and use the metal skin. mine has minor rust, i grinded and painted it, but i feel like replacing the door every time i see the car. so all i will be using is the metal skin from a single pane window door. is that possible?

thanks in advance.

There should be no difference in the metal parts of the door. Only the window, trim, and regulator would be different.

[cyclops2]

This is a 740iL

OK, I have read somewhere that if you've lowered and moved to sport struts that you should get the alignment done to the sport version alignment specs. What is the consensus on that?

I will have lowered 1.2" on Vogtland sport springs with Bilstein HD Sport struts on 4 corners. I have also moved to 18" style 93 wheels. The suspension is nearly completely rebuilt as well; new....

front: center link, tie rod ends, both control arms, sway bar links, sway bar bushings (not done: pitman arm, idler arm - both tight)

rear: integral link, ball joint (not done: control arms - all tight)

So once I get the car on the road, I will be getting the alignment done right away.

Thanks.

[740iSport303]

Many that I know who have done similar have gone to the Sport alignment specifications and have been very happy with it.

[cyclops2]

Great work Cyclops!

Thanks Daytona!!

Many that I know who have done similar have gone to the Sport alignment specifications and have been very happy with it.

Thanks Sport. I remember the BMW TIS stating the vehicle needed to be weighted during alignment. I think I had this done only during one alignment, what do people think about weighting the car for this?

[cyclops2]

I haven't had the battery installed since 7/2013. During that time it has been off and on my float charger. I recently took it to Autozone and they tested it and said it was OK. I bought it in June of 2013.

I need to install the battery temporarily so I can roll up a window. Keep in mind the car has been on blocks for almost 2 years. I have had a sheet of plastic taped over the down driver's window, but will be rolling the car out of the garage next week for the day so I need to get the window rolled up.

I will remove the battery once the window is up and return it to the float charger...........I am at least a month away from starting it.

My question, finally.... Is there anything bad that could occur by putting the battery in as described? I have MANY systems apart including the engine. I don't want to cause any damage to anything, but do need to get that window up.

Thoughts? I plan on moving it out of the garage on Tuesday.

Thanks.

[NordmanMg]

Make sure that no any positive wires hanging and can touch body, tape them and then plug the battery

[cyclops2]

Tonight loose fit the passenger front suspension, rotor and caliper. Tomorrow will torque all but bushing ends of control arms.

Also, worked on plasti-dipping the wheel. Yesterday I gave them a bath. The wheels had been plastic-dipped a couple years ago, but from storage, moving, standing, stacking and other neglected, they needed a plasti-dip touch-up.

To do this, rather than peeling off the old plasti-dip, you can use mineral spirits as a type of chemical sandpaper to remove lose and/or damaged plasti-dip. It also thins out the edges of the remaining plastic-dip at a "damage" site so that the new application of the plasti-dip will apply evenly.

I was only able to apply about 1.5 cans worth (on 4 wheels) before calling it quits tonight. I expect at least 1 more can before hitting it with a couple cans of plasti-dip glossifer (it wasn't glossy previously).

These wheels are BMW style 93 which were 745 take off that I purchased in 2006. Unfortunately, they spent a few winters in Michigan and the beautiful chrome was damaged in between spokes and around the lug nut holes. Using plasti-dip actually did a decent job of salvaging the wheels and giving the car a "new" look. Main thing is Nephews like it.

Here area few pictures of the setup and you can see bare chrome spots on the wheels. Then a couple pics after a few coats of plasti-dip.


All laid out to begin spraying. Note I placed index cards around the rim to simplify cleanup.




Closer view of a couple wheels and you can see the plasti-dip damage




Example of a wheel after a couple coats of plasti-dip

[cyclops2]

NOTE: To the best of my ability and input from PSJR and the TIS reference here is a list of torque specs for the front suspension and related components.

I have read that Bentley manual has errors, these values are TIS specified.


FRONT:


Tie Rod End nut - 48 ft lb

Tie Rod clamp bolt - 20 ft lb


Idler Arm @ center link - 48 ft lb

Idler Arm @ chassis - 31 ft lb


Pitman Arm @ center link - 48 ft lb

Pitman Arm @ steering gear - 45 ft lb


black thrust arm @ spindle - 70 ft lb

black thrust arm @ Bushing - 95 ft lb (snug only until on ground/*weighted)


silver lower control arm @ spindle - 69 ft lb

silver lower control arm @ bushing - 57 ft lb (snug only until on ground/*weighted)


sway bar link ends - 48 ft lb

sway bar brackets @ bushings - 18 ft lb


caliper bolts - 81 ft lb

caliper slide pins - 22 ft lb


Strut, shaft nut - 47 ft lb

Strut, 3 mounting nuts to chassis - 18 ft lb

Strut, spindle pinch bolt - 60 ft lb


Wheel lug bolt - 89 ft lb


*NOTE: BMW TIS defines weighting requirements for control arms and alignment as: 150 lbs in each front seat, 150 lbs in center of rear seat, 50 lbs centered in trunk and full tank of gas. From information I have read "somewhere" I recall that the weighting isn't just to replicate a typical loaded driving condition but has to do with the vehicles squat/stance under power. Anyway, I will accomplish the weighting requirements by purchasing (7) 50 lb bags of rock salt - which will be promptly returned after alignment is completed!

[cyclops2]

I would like to pick up a strut brace. Have a $100 budget. Anyone got a used one for sale?

examples (see thumbnails):


Update:

Well almost a month later, I decided to buy the Ultra Racing Strut brace off ebay. I have read many positive things about a strut brace in general and specifically many people happy with the Ultra Racing bar. It is like he one pictured in the first thumbnail, but comes in white (I may repaint it?). Paid $140 shipped from Malaysia.

I think this bar will be the perfect addition to my suspension upgrades; all new suspension components, bilstein sport struts, vogtland sport springs (1.4" lowered).

[cyclops2]

A lot of posts now going on about TCG failure and replacement. So it has gotten me to revisit the need in my car build project. Currently the car is up on blocks (to finish suspension, brakes, wheels etc.). But shortly, we will be working on the engine which has been torn down for valley pan and related work.

But I better carefully consider doing the TCG while it is in the state. I have all the parts to do the valley pan and everything related to that tear down. I do not have parts for the TCG job. I am paying a mechanic to help with the engine reassembly, so there would be additional labor costs to tear down the engine to replace the TCG (and anything else while there), plus the parts costs.


Notes:

a. car is 5/96 build M62 with about 182k miles. No evidence of TCG problem (pan had no debris)
b. I have had the car for 10 years and it has been well taken care of. I am now building it for my nephew.
c. would like car to last at least 5 more years and/or 100k miles

I think I am answering my questions as I type this (b. & c. pretty much clinch it).

So there are a few questions:

1. Should I address the TCG while I am here (engine tore down)

2. How much more in parts cost would there be (TCGs, lower timing chain gaskets, OSV). Based on other information I have read, I don't think I would replace the chain.

3. How much additional labor cost to replace the TCGs? I am trying to determine how much MORE labor cost will be over an above doing the valley pan and rest of engine assembly. does that make sense?

I will take pictures of the current state of engine disassembly, but it is torn down completely to do valley pan, VCG, intake etc.


From what I have been reading on the TCGs recently and my thought process as I type this post, makes me think I best replace the TCGs now proactively. That way, my nephew should have a pretty reliable vehicle.

Thanks

[daytonatrbo]

I've been looking into this quite a bit. To do the valley pan and get all the other stuff to make sure the engine is happy when you are done, it seems to be right around $1200 in parts. FCP sells a kit for just doing the guides and the minimum gaskets to get by for under $600, so there's a lot to consider.

[cyclops2]

Well as they say.......................IT IS A NO BRAINER!!

.... I will be changing the TCG on my M62 as a preventative measure. The recent posts about TCG failure (and some pretty animated) have got me thinking and doing a lot of reading. I have concluded that the M62 certainly can experience TCG failure (thanks Bin). I have been following the e38 boards for the past 10 years and I had wishfully had it in my head that TCG failure in the m62 engines was rare. I no longer feel that it isn't a possibility, but now realize it is more than likely an inevitability.

I have already put a lot of work and money into my build and I am making a car for my nephew that will give him an enjoyable and memorable BMW experience. Thus I decided, or realized, today, that I wanted this rebuild to last him at least 5 years and/or 100,000 miles. I can't do that if I button up the engine without replacing the TCGs!

Speaking of buttoning it up, that is the other point, I am so close already since the engine is torn down for valley pan etc etc etc. So I spoke with my mechanic tonight and we easily concluded that it would be foolish to not do it right and do it thoroughly while we are here. So now I will begin making a parts list and getting things on order.

I will need whatever special tools are required. Anyone here lend or rent them? or can anyone refer me to the BMW tool rental company that I have heard about. TIA

So as my mechanic and I discussed the project we also decided that we should replace the water pump, fan clutch, fan, belt tensioners, OSV and of course the TCG related items: lower TCG cover gasket, main seal, TCGs, jesus bolt.....what else?

I already had, for the current project scope: all new radiator hoses, new belts, new expansion tank (with sensor and cap) and TC tensioner.

Keep in mind we already have everything for the valley pan, including; upper TC gaskets, intake gaskets, PCV, pressure regulator, rebuilt injectors, heater hoses, fuel hoses, power steering tank and all hoses, powder coated the VCs, VC gaskets.... etc.

So I need to compile a list of parts and tools. Can someone point me to a good M62 TCG replacement procedure?

OK, so thanks to the gang here for getting me thinking, what a shame it would have been to button up this car without addressing the TCGs when I am sitting so close to getting at 'em.

Here are a few pictures I took tonight to show the current state of the engine disassembly.

[NordmanMg]

I was wondering, what was the first reason to tear car apart in first place?
it did not have that much miles tho

[cyclops2]

I was wondering, what was the first reason to tear car apart in first place?
it did not have that much miles tho

I was selling the car to my young nephew and the plan was to go through the car at that time teaching him about the car and something about mechanic work (how to work on a car, basic how things worked). We were going all through different/all areas fixing, cleaning, painting, maintenance. The project grew as they often do.

The engine work started out to address some oil leaks and some basic preventative maintenance items. So we replaced the power steering tank and all hoses, plugs, etc. Then I figured better replace the PCV (back of manifold), well it didn't work out - couldn't get it out. So that was the start; since had to remove the intake manifold the "must dos" get on the list: VC gaskets (leaking oil anyway), powder coat the VC, reseal the intake. The injectors were really nasty so I bought rebuilt ones.... you get the idea!

Now, as the engine "rehab" expands it will be to address the TCG preemptively. The only real problem that was going on when we first touched the engine was oil leaks. However, I will say that everything was bad and needed attention afterall (hard gaskets, leaks, aged, whatever - no neglected, just aged).

Oh yeah, I had pulled the pan (no debris), replaced the gasket, replaced the oil level sensor seal, tightened the oil pump and chain... yes, the project kept growing.

I think it is going to be a pretty decent 18 year old 180k mile 740iL when we are done. and yes, spent well beyond its book value. But that ok, that's what this addiction is about isn't it.

I should clarify, that the effort with Nephew #1 ground to a halt and my life got hectic so the car sat. Finally we had to give up and Nephew #1 bought a different car and I had the car towed to its current location (towed without wheels or struts - now that was a trick). It has been at it's current location for 8 months and we only recently started working on it again. We spend only about 20 hours a week on it so it is slow going as you can see from the posts. Oh and Nephew #2 has stepped in as "next owner" - so I am building it for him. Unfortunately, due to our work schedule (mechanic and me) and my Nephew's schedule he isn't able to be involved with the project at a hands on level. I text him pictures. I'll get him on this board soon - waiting for a milestone this coming week when we get the wheels back on and roll it outside for first time in 2 years! lol

how's that for a brief answer to your simple question? !!

[clarkitect]

Might as well rebuild the Vanos while you're in there.

I used:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...U-(After-9-98)

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/876903

http://www.bmw-planet.com/lib/E39.Vanos2.pdf

and http://www.e38.org/M62torques.pdf

Plus the Biesan guide for doing the Vanos.

[daniels635turbo]

Wish I had an uncle like you...... Instead however he builds stuff like this!!
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/B_6O0mXWoAA1wBo.jpgrge

[NordmanMg]

I was selling the car to my young nephew and the plan was to go through the car at that time teaching him about the car and something about mechanic work (how to work on a car, basic how things worked). We were going all through different/all areas fixing, cleaning, painting, maintenance. The project grew as they often do.

The engine work started out to address some oil leaks and some basic preventative maintenance items. So we replaced the power steering tank and all hoses, plugs, etc. Then I figured better replace the PCV (back of manifold), well it didn't work out - couldn't get it out. So that was the start; since had to remove the intake manifold the "must dos" get on the list: VC gaskets (leaking oil anyway), powder coat the VC, reseal the intake. The injectors were really nasty so I bought rebuilt ones.... you get the idea!

Now, as the engine "rehab" expands it will be to address the TCG preemptively. The only real problem that was going on when we first touched the engine was oil leaks. However, I will say that everything was bad and needed attention afterall (hard gaskets, leaks, aged, whatever - no neglected, just aged).

Oh yeah, I had pulled the pan (no debris), replaced the gasket, replaced the oil level sensor seal, tightened the oil pump and chain... yes, the project kept growing.

I think it is going to be a pretty decent 18 year old 180k mile 740iL when we are done. and yes, spent well beyond its book value. But that ok, that's what this addiction is about isn't it.

I should clarify, that the effort with Nephew #1 ground to a halt and my life got hectic so the car sat. Finally we had to give up and Nephew #1 bought a different car and I had the car towed to its current location (towed without wheels or struts - now that was a trick). It has been at it's current location for 8 months and we only recently started working on it again. We spend only about 20 hours a week on it so it is slow going as you can see from the posts. Oh and Nephew #2 has stepped in as "next owner" - so I am building it for him. Unfortunately, due to our work schedule (mechanic and me) and my Nephew's schedule he isn't able to be involved with the project at a hands on level. I text him pictures. I'll get him on this board soon - waiting for a milestone this coming week when we get the wheels back on and roll it outside for first time in 2 years! lol

how's that for a brief answer to your simple question? !!

You have a lot of patients my friend, I'm proud to be a part of community like this seeing people like you here.
keep it going, hoping to see it rolling by his own power soon

[cyclops2]

front wheel wells (wheel wells, suspension, brake systems) almost completed. All final details for front and rear should be completed Monday. I need to do some final beautification paint work.... can't have unpainted fasteners! lol Suspension components torqued except control arm bushing ends.

Anyway, looking pretty good. We hope to bleed, install the ABS sensors and mount the wheels tomorrow. Here is a couple pictures of the front wheel wells:








Unfortunately, my plasti dip work got away from me and I have bad texture and the glossifier really didnt work for me. I will have to repair these. This attempt is actually a re-dip of wheels we sprayed nearly 2 years ago and they had storage and handing damage of the plasti dip. The work started out looking like it was going to work out, but I think I rushed the job had lots of overspray. We shall see. Anyway, here is a pic of where these ended up:






Another thing I figured out tonight after posting pictures for over a month, I can get much better pictures with my old digital camera then my phone. These pictures are with camera and much better than what I've been able to get with my phone (bummer - would have been nice to be using the camera from day 1, oh well, I'll be using the camera over the remainder of the project.

Plan to roll the car out of the garage on Tuesday. Then wash it up a bit, re-install the door panels, remove the hood and put it back in the garage nose first (better light and near bench for the engine work we'll be starting).

So, more pictures tomorrow.

[740iSport303]

Might as well rebuild the Vanos while you're in there.

Not a Vanos engine! He is M62, not M62TU.

[cyclops2]

I have a lot to post to update you on what we've been doing.

But for now, a brief video reveal.

I will warn you now, some of you will like this and some will not. I will also warn you now to watch your volume. This can be good loud.....or not.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByV...ew?usp=sharing


I will say this, my 17 year old nephew loved it and that's all that matters!

So on we go...

[daniels635turbo]

Congrats getting her rolling! There's some nice attn to detail there.
I'd put the face lift hid lights on though, those lights look a bit chincy.
My car went from the two tone with a black rocker to this...
My car is a 99 but have had an early m60 put in it.
Love the work you are doing.