How about a build thread thread? Let's call it my Final Chapter and my Nephews first

[dannyzabolotny]

Heck yeah! We're so close to starting it!

[purplecty]

They say timing guides fail do to age? Might be time for another set? :p j/k

[cyclops2]

Well at least you don't have to worry about your tires flat-spotting since the 740il was on jack stands this whole time

I was thinking about this, good tires, but reverse sacked out suspension from "hanging" on jack stands for years!

Looks Sweet!

THANKS!

Nice looking engine. Non tu m62? Or m60?

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Thanks, it is a M62, non-vanos. very nice looking M60 in your '99!

Heck yeah! We're so close to starting it!

VERY CLOSE! goal, worse case, is to get it on the road next weekend; by end of the month. Need to move Rabbit and Jetta into my storage unit shop by October 10.

They say timing guides fail do to age? Might be time for another set? :p j/k

I know right! I probably have a lot of dry rot going on by now in multiple areas of this project. 5 years is just way too long! Best plan for keeping mileage down though. But at long last very close. I am nervous about problems, because nearly everything on this car has been "touched" over during this project. Lots of opportunity for something to bite me; Danny will be helping me with final run-through and prep for starting.


STAY TUNED FOLKS. tonight throttle cable and accelerator pedal. I will also do a complete inventory of parts to start making a list of everything left to do.

[danieljames]

Nice work and 5 years isn't bad considering the moving around and doing it yourself!
Mine has a few things yet to do after I rescued it from a shop who had it for 5 years!!!
It did go through quite the metamorphosis though.

I'm looking forward to some video of your car.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[cyclops2]

Nice work and 5 years isn't bad considering the moving around and doing it yourself!
Mine has a few things yet to do after I rescued it from a shop who had it for 5 years!!!
It did go through quite the metamorphosis though.

I'm looking forward to some video of your car.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Wow, awesome transformation. If mine looks anything like that when done, I will be very pleased. Good job with yours.

[cyclops2]

Made some more progress last night. Installled the cruise control cable. installed a new accelerator pedal with metal face plates.

TRIED to replace the throttle cable. I was able to remove the old throttle cable, but cannot install grommets of new cable into firewall. Ideas?

Here are some pictures:


Overall status picture: aluminum bushings, new cables (CC installed last night, secondary throttle cable installed year ago and now main throttle cable having some installation difficulties at the moment).
20170923_005256.jpg


Pedal assembly: new accelerator pedal, new accel pedal bushings for both shaft and cable connection points. metal pedal faces (installed a couple years ago). Accelerator pedal now operates smooth as glass. Note the accelerator pedal was broken and the bushings were shot.

20170923_012823.jpg



OK, now the throttle cable problem. The cable is fed through the firewall from the engine side. The road block is fitting a grommet that is "inside" the sheet metal and I can't get to it to seat it. There is a square grommet that also must be fitted, which I am not sure I will be able to do due to interference with the brake booster. So to do it "right" it seems that ducting/cowling needs to be removed - a big job. Here are pics.

So here is grommet and in background in upper left above booster you can see where it goes. Throttle cable feeds through this grommet (it comes as part of the cable).

20170923_005414.jpg



Here is the bigger picture of where the cable goes and what in the way.

20170923_010158.jpg


Here is realoam.com illustration of "ducting" which I am starting to think needs to be removed. It seems that #15 needs to be removed. Thoughts? anyone replaced the throttle cable? maybe I was just to tired at 2:00am...lol

throttle cable install, ducting removal diagram.JPG

[JaxMustang50]

Holy cow! Wow, I'm glad to see this back in action and you making progress.
If it's any consolation my Mustang is still apart now 13 years after beginning that project.

Take something like a dowel that is = or < the diameter of the ID of that bushing and make a "pusher" tool by somehow fixing a washer to it an inch or so from the end. Put the bushing on the end and push into the hole while working the rod in a circle to help wiggle it in place. Screw driver maybe? Not sure what kind of room you're working with.

[cyclops2]

Holy cow! Wow, I'm glad to see this back in action and you making progress.
If it's any consolation my Mustang is still apart now 13 years after beginning that project.

Take something like a dowel that is = or < the diameter of the ID of that bushing and make a "pusher" tool by somehow fixing a washer to it an inch or so from the end. Put the bushing on the end and push into the hole while working the rod in a circle to help wiggle it in place. Screw driver maybe? Not sure what kind of room you're working with.

hey Jax!

glad it is moving again too. I bet I would hit the 13 year mark if it wasn't for life pressures that "force" me to work on it. Ironically, it is life pressures that keep me away from it as well. Goal now is to get it running next weekend. Even when running, at first, there are still many things to finish.

I need to try the grommet install when fresh (not 2:00am lol); so I'll try tonight at 10:00pm, lol... Thanks for you advise, I'll try to make a "installation tool".

Stay tuned.

[cyclops2]

Still moving forward...

last night had success with installation of the new throttle cable. I used a new approach, with input from Jax and Chevynomore (from 2 years ago). This was my 3rd night of trying diferent things.

I will try to make a seperate post on the cable install so people can find it in a search in the future. But basically I used a 1/4 bolt with a washer the size of the grommet and used vice grips from inside the interior to pull on it and to keep pulling force applied while pulling on dental floss which I had wrapped around the groove of the grommet. It was still tricky, but it worked.

I discovered it was best to install the grommet with it removed from the throttle cable. Here is pic showing grommet seated while I am extracting the 1/4 inch bolt.

20170925_005600.jpg

Here is a picture from the interior where I have clamped on vise grips which I am using to pull and keep constant inward pressure on the grommet. Note the green filament, that is the dental floss which I have wrapped around the groove of the grommet.

20170925_004532.jpg



Then with the grommet seated, tie a string to the throttle cable and feed it through the grommet and carefully pull the string and cable through the grommet.

20170925_010631.jpg



Anyway, hopefully I will post a more detailed procedure, but in case I don't the above will get people started.

Here is a couple pics of completion:

20170925_011744.jpg



20170925_014805.jpg


Tonight I will finish routing and securing the throttle cable, reinstalling items removed around brake booster when "exploring" how to install the cable. I will also install the brake booster vacuum lines. I need to drain out the gas which is now a year old (few gallons) and install the seats.

Plan is to start it this Saturday!

[Hueristic]

Always try to install grommets without the pass through inserted, and tying fishing line or wire or in your case dental floss will definitely make the job easier. I usually will install by pressing the side that does not have the tied off portion in first hold and or press the other side with a flat head (2 people make this alot easier) and then pulling whatever string you used should pop it right in and using oil won't hurt especially in the middle when your running the lines through them. If installing one around cables or wire you cannot remove an end off off you just have to slice it and overlap it then when in get a flathead in there and twist it back to flush on the overlapped sliced side and for us OCD types turn it until the sliced side faces away.

Nice to see regular updates again.

[cyclops2]

Always try to install grommets without the pass through inserted, and tying fishing line or wire or in your case dental floss will definitely make the job easier. I usually will install by pressing the side that does not have the tied off portion in first hold and or press the other side with a flat head (2 people make this alot easier) and then pulling whatever string you used should pop it right in and using oil won't hurt especially in the middle when your running the lines through them. If installing one around cables or wire you cannot remove an end off off you just have to slice it and overlap it then when in get a flathead in there and twist it back to flush on the overlapped sliced side and for us OCD types turn it until the sliced side faces away.

Nice to see regular updates again.

Good tips right there. I've installed plenty of grommets, but none that were as tricky as this throttle cable. Since I was alone, I found that I had to be pulling on the grommet as well as pulling the "string" at the same time, all from inside the car, to seat it. My third night of trying finally succeeded. Thankfully! Your tips and my ramblings may help someone with this in the future. I searched and didn't find much on how to install the throttle cable. I am still guess a little on the routing....anyone have any pics of throttle cable routing under the acoustic cover?


OK, last night I made a little bit more progress. I finished the throttle cable install; putting everything back together and even detailing the area. I also connected the fuel lines to the fuel rail (well the one on the driver side anyway). I installed new vacuum lines coming from the brake booster. I drained out the old fuel; I had added a few gallons a year ago, but basically nothing drained...hmmmm....

Here are a few pictures...........because that is what I do.

20170926_024810.jpg


20170926_024838.jpg


20170926_024749.jpg

[Hueristic]

After seeing yours I'm afraid to post a pic of mine lol.
I'll post the 96 setup if a few.

[Hueristic]

DSC00028.jpg

And this is what my interior looks like right now!

DSC00029.jpg

DSC00030.jpg

DSC00031.jpg

about 5 years later and that headliner still looks perfect it was certainly worth the effort!

I still have to put in the ski pass and swap the med kit top from tan to black, I've been real lazy lately.

was even too lazy to wipe off the engine before the shot lol.

[cyclops2]

DSC00028.jpg

And this is what my interior looks like right now!

DSC00029.jpg





about 5 years later and that headliner still looks perfect it was certainly worth the effort!

I still have to put in the ski pass and swap the med kit top from tan to black, I've been real lazy lately.

was even too lazy to wipe off the engine before the shot lol.

Thanks for sharing the pics. The top picture helped with routing ideas. The bottom one, and the others, you posted almost caused me to have a panic attack... lol. Keep after it, time flies, but it can get done...I am proof.

[cyclops2]

Well no real progress last night. Just some organizing I guess; wife needed me to come home to help her at midnight.

But I did go through my inventory to see what I had to do to get this thing started and on the road. Lots of stuff left BUT, as Danny reminded me, most of the stuff that is left is cosmetic and not related to starting it. FOCUS FOCUS... just getting it ready to START!

But here is parts pile. Missing from picture is seats and subwoofer.

20170926_224422.jpg


Here is a shot of the "ghost"...

20170926_232726.jpg

So what is left?

1. finish connecting fuel lines.
2. add premium gas
3. finish connecting vacuum lines
4. install seats (first install all new seat trim for guide rails)
5. wire wheel rotors, install brake wear sensor, install hub centric rings, mount wheels
6. install DUDMD tuned DME
7. install battery

I'll probably find some other things.........but seems really close to starting. Danny and I are shooting for Friday night. Stay tuned.

[dannyzabolotny]

Before we start it, we should double check the oil level and crank the engine with the fuel pump fuse removed. That way we can get the engine moving and get some oil circulating before actually starting it.

[cyclops2]

Before we start it, we should double check the oil level and crank the engine with the fuel pump fuse removed. That way we can get the engine moving and get some oil circulating before actually starting it.

Right. I want to make sure we go over every thing and make sure we are not overlooking anything. We need to keep in mind that it has been "down" for 5 years and nearly every system has been touched in some way.

I am going to get my old battery out of storage today (it has been on a float charger) and take it to autozone for testing. I am sure I will have to get one eventually, just hoping not immediately. I'll pick up some seafoam or lucas to add to tank once we get some gas in it. I drained it again the other night and nothing came out AND BOY DOES IT SMELL RIPE!! all is new and there was very little in the tank from the start, but whatever was in there turned to blah.. hope no problems there. otherwise fuel system new: cap, inlet hose, all rubber hoses, clamps, pressure regulator, injectors, fuel filter, charcoal filter, vent line etc...everything except tank.

Be sure to bring your laptop for any troubleshooting we may need to do. oh and also your 5 gallon gas can (I need to buy one).

I will get temp tags and insurance on Friday. Next will be emissions on Monday.................assuming all goes well!!

[Hueristic]

I always throw some MMO in the cylinders before I turn an engine over that has sat.

Also turning the oil pump over before cranking is a good idea, I don't know how on these engines.

[cyclops2]

slow going folks. Just got workshop set up and wife called and needed me to come home to help her (that was 11:00pm). I came back to shop at 12:30am.... yikes! burning the midnight oil...

I finished the vacuum hoses; tonight was the hose cluster from the intake to ICV etc. (all of these parts are new). I sure don't like the look with all the clamps - the factory clamps look so much nicer in this application. I was thinking PEX or similar. Anyway...

20170928_014249.jpg


Next I started on mounting the wheels. These are 20" TSW with Nittos; picked these up used and got an excellent deal. Can't wait to see what they look like once on the ground and the suspension (lowered 1.2") settles. Then I'll decide if wheel spacers needed. Since these are aftermarket wheels, I needed to get hub-centric rings. These are plastic and they had some flashing (excess plastic from manufacturing) which I had to remove first.

I also painted the rotor edges where rust forms with rust prohibitive POR. Looks a little rough now, but I think it will clean up with a little driving/braking.

Front driver wheel installed and rear driver wheel ready for installation (need to install rear brake pad wear sensor). Note the white hub-centric ring; very thin and wheel fit very snugly.

20170928_014320.jpg


20170928_020747.jpg


Rear driver side:

20170928_033424.jpg



NOTE TO SELF (and Danny): 1. check brake operation while on jack stands, 2. tighten lugs once off jack stands. 3. check air pressure.


Tonight goal: complete wheel install, complete fuel line install (fuel rail and tank connections).

[cyclops2]

Power Steering Bleeding Question:

I replaced all hoses, washers and the reservoir/cap. I have filled the reservoir with Redline D4 ATF. Is there a bleed process I should do before starting the car and bleeding with engine running? I know when running to run the steering back and forth and keep adding ATF, but should I do something prior to starting in the case of a full system drain?

TIA

[purplecty]

I believe our PS system is self bleeding... The car is looking awesome!

[cyclops2]

I believe our PS system is self bleeding... The car is looking awesome!

Thanks for the compliment.

now does self bleeding mean I have to do nothing, or turn wheel back and forth while running and add ATF as needed. I don't recall ATF capacity on a dry power steering system. I also don't recall how much I added a year ago, when we were close to starting the car back then. I just don't want to start the car with a dry PS pump and/or gear and cause problems.

[purplecty]

I think it holds a qt. I use castrol import ATF... Just fill it and turn wheel a few times with the cap closed and then make sure the fluid is still inbetween the 2 lines and then drive it and check the fluid the next day to make sure its in between the 2 lines on the dipstick. That's all there is to it... If only the cooling system was as simple to bleed...

[cyclops2]

I think it holds a qt. I use castrol import ATF... Just fill it and turn wheel a few times with the cap closed and then make sure the fluid is still inbetween the 2 lines and then drive it and check the fluid the next day to make sure its in between the 2 lines on the dipstick. That's all there is to it... If only the cooling system was as simple to bleed...

LOVE IT!!!.... we have a sentence with "drive it"... oh yeah baby!


we will be bleeding the PS and the coolant while car on jack stands. if all goes well, we'll take off stands and "drive" it out of the shop.

Coolant: all new system (except radiator which is "pretty new"). It passed our pressure test a year ago (well actually failed because I missed a piece of gasket material on the rear cooling manifold mounted to the block). So hopefully, we'll just be bleeding.

But we have to carefully check everything prior to start and then test it thoroughly when first started, including running it through the gears and even testing the brakes before dropping if off the jack stands.

Still shooting for Friday night....

[dannyzabolotny]

I think it holds a qt. I use castrol import ATF... Just fill it and turn wheel a few times with the cap closed and then make sure the fluid is still inbetween the 2 lines and then drive it and check the fluid the next day to make sure its in between the 2 lines on the dipstick. That's all there is to it... If only the cooling system was as simple to bleed...

That's how the cooling system is in the M5 and the Range Rover. So nice to just add coolant, start the car, and then add some more coolant. Nice and easy.