Hi Guys,
First off all i red thousands of topics about this common problem, but I've not found a solution, and I do not found similar one, so here's where i'm now.
2001 e39 525i, my idle is very, very rough but only at cold if the motor reach the operating temperature the problem goes away.
So here's what i've checked or changed:
-Checked for vacuum leaks
-The complete CCV system changed to brand new OEM one, including vacuum hoses.
-ICV cleaned
-Tried with another MAF sensor
-Replaced the Pre Cat oyxgen sensor (Can be the post cat O2 sensor the problem???)
-Replaced the exhaust camshaft position sensor
-Checked the coolant temperature sensor
i have no error codes is DIS and no power problem with the car. But I have white smoke coming out from the exhaust
I uploaded a video, maybe someone can help me...
As you can see at video the would engine would stall if I not give a little power at 12 sec on.
I appreciate for any kind of help!
Last edited by thomasv; 02-20-2015 at 01:06 PM.
White smoked out of the tail pipe is generally coolant burning off.
Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast
My coolant is ok, no overtemperature I checked it with DIS, the white smoke becase of fuel mixture I think.
And my coolant water level is OK, and it not run out.
You mean that I have cracked cylinder head?
Last edited by thomasv; 02-18-2015 at 02:04 PM.
Fuel mixture being too rich would be grey to black smoke depending on how rich.
White smoke is coolant. Cracked head, block, headgasket, or anything else that allows coolant into the combustion chambers.
Last edited by Stück; 02-18-2015 at 02:08 PM.
Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast
Thanks for your help.
The only thing that I don't understand if I have Head gasket crack, Head block crack or etc... my coolant water must run out.
My coolant water not run out, I check it every week and it's like as a month ago, it's on the same level.
Last edited by thomasv; 02-18-2015 at 02:24 PM.
Your tackometer shows that the car is hunting idle. That is a sure sign that there is a major vacuum leak somewhere. That is your mission now,,,to find the vac leak. Good luck
You have either a major vacuum leak,,or the idle control valve is stuck and not working properly. How long has it been since the icv was last cleaned?
Thomas- Pull the driver side air filter. Underneath it is the brake booster. Look under the brake booster and see if there is standing water. If so reach under the booster and clear the drain holes of debris, such as leaves, pine needles and dirt. It will take a couple cleanings and vacuumings to insure it's spotlessly clean.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...e-cabin-filter
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...orrid-cold!!!!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...rt-white-smoke
Last edited by Boomer Depp; 05-10-2015 at 01:09 PM.
Odd occurance...this should be the 11th post..not showing a 10th post started by the original poster..Hmmm
I'm trying to replace my exhaust camshaft positioning sensor. Do you know the part number and any postings that would help with that? I have a 2000 528i
Much modified VF Supercharger Kit tuned by Tuning Tech FS, M5 front sports seats, CVV to catch can conversion, Boost Gauge, Schmiedmann header to rear muffler high flow exhaust, Header Ceramic coated inside & out, Exhaust heat wrapped from flanges after header to before CATs, Kicker sub with dedicated 200 watt amp, CCFL angel eyes, CF facelift kidney grills, Quaife LS diff ,Super duty cooling kit, Electric fan controlled by temperature adjustable 2 speed controller (JimLev design)
John
Not really seeing as my car idles just like his. Go be a forum Nazi somewhere else
One more thing I noticed today, when I turning the steering wheel it's also start to fluctuate, you can this in the following video:
I just want to share this before I take apart the brake booster.
Maybe this can be the proof for the air leak?
Because when the car is not moving just the engine running, my idle is smoth as it has to be.
The idle only start to fluctuate only when I slow down at a red light example and rpm dropped down. The last what i've noticed to force this issue, using handbrake then start to releases the clutch it's also starts to fluctuating like when i'm turning the steering wheel and this is at operating temperature too.
First off, was there any water in the compartment under the brake booster?
As to your query and video....The idle fluctuation is related to the load on the engine, once the power steering is actuated. Yours probably fluctuates that much because the ICV needs cleaning again. Even with a clean ICV valve, it may fluctuate just a touch at idle, but it's hardly noticeable, about as much fluctuation as in the beginning of your video. The power steering is powered by a belt that is turned by your engine. Anything that changes the demand on the engine will have an effect on your idle. It is more noticeable when the engine is only at idle. When you are driving you don't really notice it much because engine is operating at a much higher power output and it is much easier to turn wheels that are rolling versus wheels standing still.
Sometimes it pays to go back to basics to check common issues and cold weather misfires.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
Last edited by Boomer Depp; 02-23-2015 at 02:27 PM.
Sorry, for the late answer, I had a very hard year. Don't had any time to manage this problem.
FRESH NEWS:
No water in the brake booster, dry.
ICV cleaned, but I also replaced with another one.
New OEM precat O2 sensors.
Still have the problem.
So maybe it's really a vacuum leak, I don't no.
Has anybody have a good idea how to diagnose vacuum leak? I've already used a plenty breake cleaner, to find air leak with no success.
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