Behr/Bosch Compressor Rebuild

[xx138xx]

Here is a rebuild for Behr/Bosch compressor. Im not sure of the model number as the tag was already gone. Make sure to wear latex gloves while working.

parts list

Seal/Oring kit: MT2107
Shaft seal: MT2052




Here is the compressor

Bust this nut loose


lift clutch off

clutch off

Spacers


Remove this center nut

Remove by placing flat head screwdriver in one of the slots and tap with hammer until nut breaks free. Then unscrew

Remove lock washer by turning it until it lines up with slot

Then the pulley lifts right off

To remove magnet remove screws

Take note of where the wire coming off the magnet is for proper reinstallation


Remove the outer 8 bolts (note in picture some are already removed) Then 4 inner bolts

Here is the front plate replace these 2 seals

Here is the shaft seal. It slides right off, but before you can remove you must remove key stock in shaft.

Replace this Oring and clean shaft with 0000 steel wool( do not let steel wool particles get in compressor)

Make sure to lube all seals and orings with A/C oil.
If you only have a leak in the front seal this is all you need to do. Reassembly is reverse of the above.

I wanted to do a full inspection on this compressor so I tore in to it all the way. I would only advise if you have a worn bearing.

Pull compressor out of the housing

Empty housing

remove bolts on the back of compressor

Overhead view

With back plate removed. This is what actually compresses the gas.

Shaft

Roller bearing. There is 3 in this assembly.

These plates ride in the slots on the shaft


Centrifugal force pushes these plates to seal on the compressor walls

That is about it on this compressor.


Things to check.

1. Radial Movement Of The Shaft
Its caused by worn bearings. It will cause failure of the mechanical shaft seal. The mechanical seal will leak if not in full contact with sealing surface. It will cause improper wear and even could cause it to break.

2. Shaft Run Out
Its unlikely with the short shaft but it doesn't hurt to check.

3. Worn Shaft/ Scored Shaft
Inspect the shaft where the mechanical seal rests. Scoring, inconsistent wear, and dirt/debris will cause improper sealing. Its important to clean and polish the shaft with steel wool.

4. Contaminated Oil
Dirt and debris in the compressor can interfere with the contact between the mechanical seal and the sealing surface. When debris gets in between the mechanical seal and the sealing surface it will score them. When the sealing surface is score it has to be replaced. It can not be resurfaced without special equipment. Never touch the sealing surface or mechanical seal surface with bare hands. Always use clean rubber gloves.

[richardodn]

Thanks for the post!

[Heatmakerz]

Great detailed post.

[jvarksdale]

Pictures gone - hoping to do this with my Bosch AC compressor. Any chance they can be salvaged?

[Samsam15]

Try going here http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/richardmofo/profile/ and scrolling until you get to it,

[g650]

Great write up and photos. Just resealed my Behr/Bosch compressor (0 140 903 223 / 70.623.04.472) but am wondering if I tightened the face bolts to correct torque...shaft turns with a little bit of drag/stiffness now. Searched for torque specs on-line but could not find them. Anyone know what the 4 main cover bolt torque is? Main shaft nut I think is 8-12 ft-lbs. Thanks

[15Michaeljoseph]

This is exactly what I needed

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[15Michaeljoseph]

Great write up and photos. Just resealed my Behr/Bosch compressor (0 140 903 223 / 70.623.04.472) but am wondering if I tightened the face bolts to correct torque...shaft turns with a little bit of drag/stiffness now. Searched for torque specs on-line but could not find them. Anyone know what the 4 main cover bolt torque is? Main shaft nut I think is 8-12 ft-lbs. Thanks

Did you ever figure this one out? My compressor is leaking at the shaft seal but I don't want to tear into it without torque values

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[15Michaeljoseph]

Well I guess torque specs aren't really needed for this one, got by just fine doing it by feel. Ordered the two kits from AutoZone (they were cheapest there and I got them the next day), pulled the compressor, drained the oil, and followed this write-up to disassemble. The inner Allen bolts were extremely tight! The rest not so much...

A/C seems to be working just fine now, and no leaks from the compressor shaft thus far. Refilled with requisite amount of freon and more dye... we'll see what part of the system leaks next XD

Thanks for this old write-up!

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[sebasr210x]

Hello 15Michaeljoseph, I wanted to ask you about the seal kit MT2107, it comes with a bunch of washers and additional small O-rings, did you use all of them? This post shows he only uses the two large seals.

[sebasr210x]

Well I guess torque specs aren't really needed for this one, got by just fine doing it by feel. Ordered the two kits from AutoZone (they were cheapest there and I got them the next day), pulled the compressor, drained the oil, and followed this write-up to disassemble. The inner Allen bolts were extremely tight! The rest not so much...

A/C seems to be working just fine now, and no leaks from the compressor shaft thus far. Refilled with requisite amount of freon and more dye... we'll see what part of the system leaks next XD

Thanks for this old write-up!

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

Hello 15Michaeljoseph, I wanted to ask you about the seal kit MT2107, it comes with a bunch of washers and additional small O-rings, did you use all of them? This post shows he only uses the two large seals.

[15Michaeljoseph]

Hello 15Michaeljoseph, I wanted to ask you about the seal kit MT2107, it comes with a bunch of washers and additional small O-rings, did you use all of them? This post shows he only uses the two large seals.

Hey there, just saw your post. I used the two big seals pictured here for the front plate. I believe I also used one of the included o-rings for that hose connection flange that is held on the top of the compressor with the allen head bolts.

The rest of the extra pieces must be for different compressors, but are just all sold in the same kit or something.

Likewise there were also extra parts included with that second kit for the shaft seal. For example, I re-used the original shaft seal preload spring and plastic sleeve from the compressor rather than using the ones from the kit because they were a little bit different from the originals. You'll see when you have it apart, be very diligent, clean, and organized

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[15Michaeljoseph]

Just wanted to pop back in for posterity's sake: a complimentary compressor bearing fix

The pulley bearing on my freshly re-sealed compressor was failing, so I did some detective work and found that it can be replaced with a Santech bearing, part number MT2024. I was surprised to see it was also available at the local AZ, in stock for something like 43 bucks... but I grabbed it on amazon for 20 and change.
If you're resealing your compressor (per this thread) and removing the pulley anyway, check to see if your bearing has any play in it. After all, these units are getting up there in mileage and this bearing constantly spins along with the engine, regardless of whether the AC is on or not. It's really easy to change once the pulley is off, just two snap rings, press old out, press new in, reinstall snap rings, carry on.

I did the bearing replacement with my compressor in the car since I don't have recovery equipment to pull the compressor again. It was tight but still doable.