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You should reinforce the rear swaybar mounts on that subframe while you're in there welding things. There are kits (akg I think) that work well. Also just a piece of flat bar welded in does 90% of the job if done right.
They will crack again, if you don't.
Paint looks great!
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I did have the tabs welded.
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More pic! Got the rear end out, cradle out, new cradle ready go back in with all new PF bushings, interior mostly stripped and deadening out, and roll bar lined up to mount. Cutting quarter windows from lexan has been a pain in the ass!
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Anyone have a guide to what wires I can strip/cut from the doors? I have nothing left to control so the wires are useless. I don't wanna snip something and the ecu not work.
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Well after over a year sabbatical I'm back to the build. This showed up in the middle of it all.
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And with another side project....
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I finally got back to the rear end. Had to get bearings pressed out from a local shop and rebuilt axles...now time for reassembly.
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Now before I seal that case someone tell me the best gears for track duty. 3.64?
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So after almost 3 years the M is finally on the ground again. Took me 20 hours over the weekend to shore up the rear suspension and brakes. Got a couple odds and ends to finish up but should finally be ready for track season.
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I have exhaust questions if anyone can help me out. I have the S52 manifolds to upgrade too. After that I'm planning to get rid of everything to the muffler. Is there a method to this madness or take it to a local muffler shop and let them build something custom?
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Bimmerworld race exhaust is a solid option for a track car. Or if you want just the mid section and stock muffler, they offer just the mid pipes too. Both will bolt right up to the manifolds.
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I see that. Is there a cheaper option? I assume my local exhaust shop with fab me some pipes and install a cheap muffler and I can retain the stock collector sections off the manifolds.Originally Posted by Pat533i
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Depending on where you live, that may cost more than the Bimmerworld option. I ended up having a custom exhaust made by a race shop since I had long tube headers and went with OBD1 and it cost a lot more than expected. A lot of little parts that add up plus a few hours of fabrication to do it right versus just slapped together. At least it sounds *epic*. Lol. 3" all the way back is awesome...
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We have a company with several local locations that usually does cheap work. For now I think I'm just gonna have them striaght pipe from the last connection back replacing the muffler. Weight reduction!
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Seems you just answered your own question then
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For now. I haven't swapped the 52 manifolds yet and I eventually want to go without cats and less restrictive pipes.
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It's gonna be loud!
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It's a track car. Its supposed to be loud.
Now a friend has a daily SS Camaro with full headers and exhaust...he's been asked to leave a track. lol
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What's the widest wheel tire combo that fits under these cars? I have the 17x7.5 with 240/45's now I think.
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What fits without flares or with flares?
I run 285/30-18s on 18x10.5 under the flares that are on the car right now - modified Hard Motorsports V1s (see pic below). I plan on modding them a bit more to fit 295/30-18s on same width wheels.
Last edited by jakermac; 01-27-2018 at 11:24 AM.
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Nice. Right now its stock not even rolled yet. I will roll them out in the next couple weeks. Thanks
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After 3 years the ///M lives! Fired up and put some final touches on her today and took her out for a short sprint. This was the most I've ever driven an E36M lol. Gotta finish up some of the interior, mount the light weight battery and install the spal fan kit and I'll be track ready.
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S52 header swap, trans mounts, and dropped the driveshaft to swap guibo and replace shifter.
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The front diff bolt and bushing seem to have backed out some. I'll retorque ...I think I only used ~80ftlbs last I read. Think its supposed to me more. Is there a spec and is there supposed to be a washer in front of the bushing? I'm using Powerflex purple.
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Diff bolt should have a spacer. I had the same problem until I started using red loctite.
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Loctite won't cause it to break off? I'm going to get under there today and torque it down. I think I only used 77lbs. I've read up to 12xlbs. Can anyone confirm?
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I used red loctite as a worst case on my 450whp turbo car. Up the torque to 85 ft lbs first and see if it holds.
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What about replacing the bolt too? I've read some people replaced the bolt or even drilled out and upgraded. I realllllly don't want to have to break this thing down again.
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Got light weight battery mounted.
PowerFlex diff bushing backed out. Retightened but its stopping a fraction short. Anyone else have this problem?
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