The s52 I put in my 95 has roughly 200k miles on it. Im going to be pulling the head soon for a full rebuild. One of the things I was considering replacing was the lower chain tensioner. I was wondering if anyone knows of definitive way of determining whether or not it needs to be replaced? Id rather not spend $250 on it, but I would really rather not have a chain/guide break.
When I had the s50, I was able to bring it back to life with a $5 spring. Unfortunately the s52 tensioner is not the same design...
WTF? Part #9 on this diagram: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...97&hg=11&fg=25
I just looked at the price of that thing ... what are they smoking, lol. Honestly, I didn't even know it was different from the M52/M54 part. We've always used that part, with the replaceable spring and piston, and have never had an issue. We spin our engines to over 7500 in most cases. Everything else in the S52 is basically identical to M52 ... so why this part?
Realloem's price on that is cheap too lol. The cheapest I have found it from the major vendors is $230.
So you are saying this part: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item6 could be used without issue on my s52?
^^Right the spring alone wouldnt be transferable but the unit itself would be. BUT I want to know if it would be suitable and acceptable to use it in my s52?
^^Thanks for the input!
Anyone else??
Anyone?
I would like to know as well. Is everyone reusing or biting the bullet on the cost?
What happened to your head raj?
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
^^ Well it NEEDED valve stem seals. And given the 200k miles I want the valve springs tested because Ive got schrick cams ready to go in(264/256) which are mild enough to be safe to run on stock springs.. BUT if my springs need replacement, I would like to know before I put the cams in.
SOOOO nothing is ever as simple as its supposed to be. I pulled the head yesterday and as I was lifting the head off the block I nicked the primary chain guide. Took a small chunk out of the top of it. I wiggled it around and noticed the chain guide is BROKEN where it mounts on the stud bolt. Which of course cant be replaced without removing the timing cover. Before the head was pulled, I could hear a slight rattle coming from the timing cover area, and now I guess I know what it is. Maybe this turned out to be a blessing in disguise as a broken chain guide needs to be replaced ASAP, and I never would have noticed it without pulling the head and breaking it further LOL.
I have all new chain guides on the way as well as a new front crank seal. As of now I have everything off that needs to be removed in order to pull the timing cover. All that is left is the crank pulley and the timing cover bolts. Not looking forward to the crank bolt, will tackle that this evening.
Anyways, now that I am pulling the timing cover and replacing the guides I will absolutely be replacing that lower chain tensioner. Only dilema now is whether to bite the bullet on the $200 s52 tensioner or go for the m52 tensioner. If I cant get a definitive answer, I will get the s52 one. I am aware that the s52 tensioner is a better design and lasts longer. BUT I would like to know if they exert similar tension on the guide. If they do, then I will get the m52 one, as I am fine with replacing the tensioner every 100k miles vs. 200k lol. I could buy 10 m52 tensioners for 1 s52. BUT if the performance/tension of the m52 is inferior whatsoever, I will suck it up and get the s52 tensioner... So if anyone could chime in I would really appreciate it!
Thanks!
- - - Updated - - -
ALSO, I might make a DIY on the timing cover.. Not sure if anyone would be interested in it? If so, lemme know and I will document all the steps needed to remove the timing cover with pictures and text. Flyfish has a nice DIY on it but he has the engine removed. So there is some variation.. Anyways, if anyone thinks a DIY would be nice I will do so.
I've beeen buying parts for my engine overhaul and I'm wondering if its worth it to add a cam chain tensioner. My motor is a '94 and its my understanding that the early Magnum motors didn't have them. Should I get one for when I change my timing chain?Brandon
Bumping because I am surprised no one mentioned the spring can be replaced separately for a few bucks. Saw this thread and didn't realize the spring can be purchased separately. Not sure if 95's have an inferior tensioner that needs replacing with 96+ cars parts but I'm stoked to know the spring can be replaced for $5 instead of the whole assembly for $225+.
What makes it confusing is the part diagram shown in this thread doesn't come up in REALOEM. However I did find the part number which is (11-41-1-706-809) for anyone who might think they need it.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...or-less-than-1
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
^^Unfortunately, not so fast lol..
The s52 tensioner does not have a removable or replaceable spring unlike the s50, m50, and m52. The s52 and s54 use the same tensioner, and they have no serviceable parts. They must be replaced as a unit.
As for what I did, I bought a used s52 tensioner with 7k miles on it.
Thats the oil pump and its pressure relief valve spring, not the chain tensioner.
The primary cam chain tensioner is hydraulically operated using engine oil pressure. Its internal spring only serves to provide some minimal static pressure.
Neil
Damn! Too bad so sad!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...or-less-than-1
If thats the case why are people in this thread talking about replacing a $5 spring at primary timing chain tensioner (there is no discussion of oil pump not even in the Real OEM diagram referenced)..?
Last edited by hide1; 03-19-2015 at 04:51 PM.
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
Well that turns out to be interesting.
The part number you gave is indeed for the oil pump, as I said. See for yourself, it's #7 here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&fg=30&hl=84)
However it's also for the primary chain tensioner, or at least it used to be, back in early production (to 9/94) when that multi-piece tensioner was still current. See #12 here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=11&fg=25
This is largely moot today, since the old style tensioner is no longer available, and it's been common practice for years to replace the multi-part tensioner on older cars with the newer single piece design. The same tensioner was also carried through to the E46 M3. I don't know when it became so pricey though. When I replaced mine some years ago it was about $150; I thought that was expensive enough at the time.
Neil
Reviving this thread to ask if anyone else has the aluminum seal on the lower tensioner of their S52? My tensioner came loose and was leaking oil again, and so this time I thought I would replace the seal that is on there with a new one. But when I pull up the parts diagram, oddly the seal is not listed (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6121). And if I search for the part number (07-11-9-963-418), it is not found for the S52). However, if I pull up the diagram for an S50, the seal is present (#13 in http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...85#07119963418).
Do other people have S52s with the seal present? It seems that if the part was not designed to have a seal (which would be odd), then adding one may reduce the spring force on the tensioner. And if the seal is supposed to be used on the S52, is 07-11-9-963-418 the correct part?
'77 911S - 2.7RS
'98 M3/4
I've always used the aluminum crush washer on my S52.
What crush washer?
I don't see one shown.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6121
I've always used one ... but I also tend to use the M54/M52 tensioners 'cause I have a bunch of those, and the S52 ones are silly expensive in comparison.
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