M54-M52TU DIY Solution to the troublesome CCV system, (Pic Heavy)

[bimmerfan2014]

Hey everyone,
Spent the last few days pouring over bmw m54 ccv, oil seperator, pcv discussions, trying to understand ccv delete.

Today i tore down my 2002 525i so i could look at the ccv, which i found drenched in oil and probably leaking/broken.
Also i didnt see any mayo, I'm guessing cause im California and its not cold like you guys on the east coast.
I would like to perform the delete since i feel my ccv is going bad and the engine is consuming more and more oil between oil changes.

The following is what i understand of the ccv delete..is it correct?
A. Blocking the ccv dip stick hose
B. Remove the ccv
C. Connect remaining hoses to a closed system within the intake manifold/air distribution connector (Valve cover hose, Return pipe and Upper CCV line)

One thing Ive read again and again is the vacuum pressure seems to be increased, but so far it hasn't been a huge issue and/or the effects haven't been noticed.
With my limited knowledge, it seems the pressure is increased because the CCV dip stick tube is now blocked, not allowing pressure to circulate from the valve cover to the bottom of engine. Its the one thing different in this changed system. Does that sounds plausible?

Would it be possible to run the valve cover hose down towards where the ccv was, insert a T-junction then run a hose back up to the intake manifold. Somewhere the PCV would be inserted of course. Im guessing near the upper end of the hose right before it connects to the manifold.
If this is possible i think it might solve two issues. (see attached image)
1. It would allow oil to drain down to the dip stick and circulate gases. This would assist the oil to drain down to the T-junction (then to the dip stick) but not back up to the manifold.
2. Equalize/reduce high pressures within the system since now the pressure circulates like the original system with the CCV.

What do you think?


tjunctionjpeg.jpg

[Tazman861]

I think what you are describing is a catch can solution where the vapours go from the valve cover to a catch can which then separates the vapour and returns air to the inlet and oil to the sump, basically the same as the standard CCV system.

From what I understand the increased vacuum in this system makes sure the oil control rings seal properly meaning there is very little if any oil being lost and therefore none to need returning via the dipstick tube.

[Sroor9001]

Few days ago the CCV on my 3.0 X5 froze up and started to consume oil and caused engine lean codes-misfires, I have read that these CCV's love to fill with condensation sludge in the winter time, and even though I made sure to never make 5 minute short trips mine still managed to freeze up.
So while looking for a solution to this problem I stumbled upon this thread here : http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-in-10-mins!!!

It looked like a good cheap solution to a very common problem. All credit goes to member S14B23 I followed his instructions and took some pictures along the way.

Since replacing my CCV with a traditional PCV all of my problems disappeared, no more engine lean codes and a silky smooth idle, and not to mention no more worrying about my CCV freezing and hydrolocking my engine with oil from the dipstick tube.

I will keep everyone posted as to how this is holding up in the upcoming months, but as of now I am very happy with the results. This took approximately two hours, but I was also replacing my Oil stand gasket while I was in there. I know I performed this on my X5, but this will be 99% identical to E39's, E46's, E53's and anything else with an M54-M52TU engine.

Parts used were bought at Autozone,
PCV valve item # PCV1124DL $2.99
1 Foot of 3/4 internal diameter Hose $1.50
1 Foot of 3/8 internal diameter Hose $1.50
1 box of assorted plastic plugs $4.99
4 various sizes of metal band clamps $1.00

Supplies:



Next we begin by removing the plastic engine cover and removing the 4 Torx bolts marked by the red dots on the air distribution piece.



After the bolts are removed spray some penetrating oil onto the 6 little plastic tubes that go into the intake manifold, I used a pry bar to gently pry each plastic tube upward without damaging anything. Keep in mind that the air distribution piece is still connected at the Green dots, after you pry everything up, disconnect the clip near the green dots, keep the yellow dot clip attached because that will lift with the entire assembly, and cut the tube with a razor where the red dots are, be careful not to cut yourself.




When everything is cut and disconnected, you can lift the entire air distribution assembly up along with the attached hose that we need.



Don't worry about these two connections between the intake runners, we will disconnect all of the CCV vacuum lines so these will be useless, cut them off if you like, I just left mine there.




Now with this piece removed, carefully take off some of the insulation from the vacuum tube. About an inch should do.




I wrapped some electric tape around the tip to create a tighter fit into the 3/8 ID Hose.




Then attach the 3/8 ID hose onto the tip of the vacuum tube and tighten with a band clap.



After that you have to plug the port on the opposite end of the air distribution piece, I found a red plastic cap that fit in very tight.



Wrapped the plastic cap with electric tape to make sure it doesn't fall out later.



Now it's time to cut the other connection off, You can cut it anywhere, I just chose to go lower cause I had the oil filter stand off, remember that the OEM CCV is now useless and we don't need the other end of that plastic pipe, I left mine where it was without plugging anything.




When everything is cut, strip all the plastic tubing off of the connector and insert it into the 3/4 ID hose, tighten with a band clamp.




Then cut the 3/4 ID hose as short as you can, then fit the PCV valve into the hose and tighten with a clamp.




Now clean all 6 of the air distribution port holes on the intake manifold I used brake cleaner and a rag, I also applied a little grease to make re-installing it easier.
Like I said earlier, don't worry about those 2 connectors between the first and second yellow dots, they will no longer have any vacuum.




Now line up the Air distribution piece up with the six holes, and gently tap each one back into place.




After that, connect the new PCV connection back into the valve cover, then measure out the smaller hose and cut it to fit into the other end of the PCV valve neatly.




Now you go under the car and remove the plastic splash shield and find your CCV dipstick drain hose, which is marked in red.




You then take off the hose from the dip stick tube(Green dot) , then find a plastic cap to firmly close the metal part of the tube where that hose was (Red Dot).



CONGRATS! You did it, the factory CCV is now completely blocked off and bypassed by the new "old fashioned" PCV system.
Start the car up and check for any air leaks or unplugged connections.



After you make sure everything is working perfectly, put all your plastic covers back on and enjoy your sweet new PCV system, and if the PCV valve ever breaks, replacing it is literally a 5 minute job, unlike a OEM CCV system.



*********************************************
***EDIT***
Use a Brass T fitting and a spare piece of 3/8 hose to connect the other side of the air distribution piece to even out the flow. Once again the Brass T valve I got from home depot or your favorite hardware store, you cause even use a PVC type T valve if you cannot find the Brass. I cut a hole just big enough in the RED cap I used to seal the large opening with, stuck in the 3/8 hose, and used RTV silicone to make it an air tight seal. Many months and thousands of miles later this mod is still holding up great. Passed a system smoke test with flying colors. 10000 Miles and not a drop of oil has burnt.

Ok friend didn't understand last point the t brass fitting what's the purpose of it and you are connecting which hose to which ??
Sorry cause Iam confused
And
PCV1124DL this valve is for which car and which model so I can get it from auto part
Thanks in advance
And by removing air distributer isn't safe to do it by a screw driver ??
And sorry for silly question cause Iam novice on this modification

- - - Updated - - -

Ok I've understand the T adapter and everything but want now just to know the valve from which car ?

- - - Updated - - -

Installation is done and the car works again.

Lucky for me that i towed the car home to a friend of mine and didn´t try to drive it.
We removed the spark plugs and yes in every cylinder there were oil. We fired up the vacuum-cleaner and sucked as much oil as possible out of the cylinders and put everything back together.
I needed to fill up the oil with around 2,5 liters of oil. So it has really consumed a lot when it failed. This proves what a shitty construction BMW´s CCV is.
After that we started the car and she was running fine, just a lot of smoke/oil that needed to burn off. His neighbors were less impressed with all the smoke pouring out of the exhaust then we were that it actually started and kept running fine.

Took her out for a drive and everything seems ok.
The only concern I have is that I now have a really strong vacuum when taking of the oilfillercap och the dipstick.
Is this ok or can it be bad for the engine in some way?
No lights on the dashboard to indicate any malfunctions but just curious what you guys think of it?

Some rather bad cellphone pics of the nearly completed install.

Attachment 561745 Attachment 561746 Attachment 561747 Attachment 561748 Attachment 561749

Did you finish other end of the hose ?? Of T or you fix it like this

[Tazman861]

Post no 125 has a link to the PCV in eBay

[BavarianE39]

Yes this PCV valve is used on LOTS of cars, everything from Chevy's to Fords, probably easier to buy it on ebay, I've seen them sold internationally so you shouldn't have a problem buying one. just look for PCV1124DL on ebay.

[mattmar1]

99 528i just did this ccv delete, and possibly have an issue. after buying the pcv1124dl pcv valve, i noticed that it held a free, gravity held ball, with no spring inside, usually held vertically when used. this installation holds it horizontally. the internal ball is free to move. after doing the mod, (prior to doing this, i had reset adaptations for some other work on the car), at idle, my ltft's were 0.0, my stft's were going up around 12, leading me to believe the mod was giving me a big vac leak. 3500 rpm, stft's markedly lessened, around 4. pending mixture faults were read for both banks, i will be dealing with this more tomorrow, but has anyone had this experience, any suggestions or thoughts? i used the original fittings to the distribution piece, all new fuel line for all the hoses, none of the original hard plastic tubing remains. for the front fitting, a 5/8" rubber cap was needed to cap it. the dipstick tube port required a 3/8" rubber cap, both found locally at a bearing/hydraulic shop.

[16valex]

99 528i just did this ccv delete, and possibly have an issue. after buying the pcv1124dl pcv valve, i noticed that it held a free, gravity held ball, with no spring inside, usually held vertically when used. this installation holds it horizontally. the internal ball is free to move. after doing the mod, (prior to doing this, i had reset adaptations for some other work on the car), at idle, my ltft's were 0.0, my stft's were going up around 12, leading me to believe the mod was giving me a big vac leak. 3500 rpm, stft's markedly lessened, around 4. pending mixture faults were read for both banks, i will be dealing with this more tomorrow, but has anyone had this experience, any suggestions or thoughts? i used the original fittings to the distribution piece, all new fuel line for all the hoses, none of the original hard plastic tubing remains. for the front fitting, a 5/8" rubber cap was needed to cap it. the dipstick tube port required a 3/8" rubber cap, both found locally at a bearing/hydraulic shop.

Hey Matt,
What did you do to the small vacuum hose that you removed from CCV valve?
I'm pretty sure you have vacuum leak, check your new connections again.
I wouldn't worry about horizontal or vertical mount, as a matter of fact horizontal is easier is better because it will take less vacuum to pull shut.

[mattmar1]

Hi Alex...would that be item #6 in the pic on post 126? I just noticed that line, hadnt messed with it, ill need to look at this line. i hadnt done any small tube changes during this mod. im pretty sure its a vac leak too, looked around for one.

[16valex]

Hi Alex...would that be item #6 in the pic on post 126? I just noticed that line, hadnt messed with it, ill need to look at this line. i hadnt done any small tube changes during this mod. im pretty sure its a vac leak too, looked around for one.

Yes, hose #6. That #6 hose need to be plugged off or else you will have a leak because the CCV valve is now wide opened.

I for got the other end of hose #6 goes. Let me know where it goes.

[mattmar1]

im trying to find it for sure before i do anything...is it the vac hose that ends in to a metal tube on the top of the fuel rail? hard to see if thats the one that goes to the ccv or goes to elsewhere...im still digging.

[16valex]

im trying to find it for sure before i do anything...is it the vac hose that ends in to a metal tube on the top of the fuel rail? hard to see if thats the one that goes to the ccv or goes to elsewhere...im still digging.

I think you're on the right track. I don't have a M52TU engine to verify. None of my cars is M52TU.

If it is indeed connects to the fuel rail then you need to re-route to another vacuum junction or else at idle your engine will run rich, rich mixture is definitely bad. My recommendation is to route it to the F-connector where the intake boot is (that if you have one).

[will308]

Just did this mod to my '02, 525. temps here are going to be 2*....pretty cold.
I'll report back after a few miles on the car.
One big difference is the idle. It's butter smooth. There was always a slight vibration that I could feel in the steering wheel...that's gone now.

[mattmar1]

finished the mod, after having 2 coils go out and a water pump needing replacement, all happened the same day. for m52tu folks, the steel line running the length of the fuel rail on top of the engine feeds the fuel pressure regulator regulator mounted by the fuel filter.however my stft's went way hi at low rpm's when trying it out, dropped to an acceptable level when holding 3500 rpm, ltft stayed low. checked for any vac leaks i may have inadvertently created, there were none. so i pinched off the 3/8 output of the new pcv valve, voila, all returned to normal trims. while i did notice an idle improvement, better off idle response, and generally a smoother feel, i have no way to know if doing this mod or replacing the 6 coils made the change. any thoughts?

[paulpg]

Thinking about going to this system since I do have a lot of oil consumption and black blow by all over the back of the car. My question is does it matter/will it work if I have a supercharger.

[BavarianE39]

Thinking about going to this system since I do have a lot of oil consumption and black blow by all over the back of the car. My question is does it matter/will it work if I have a supercharger.

Someone with more knowledge should chime in but I think that when you have forced induction you would be better off going with a catch can setup similar to what the N54 guys do.

[Tazman861]

Just thought I'd add an update. I carried out this mod on Friday and boy do I wish I'd done it sooner.

The car feels stronger, a bit hard to describe but the idle seems smoother and the car pulls a bit better, it could be all in my mind!

The car always had a lot of fumes coming from the exhaust and so after I'd done the conversion I cleaned and polished the exhaust and carefully checked the oil level. After a couple of hundred miles the exhaust is still clean and the oil level hasent changed, I was using 1litre every 350 miles, I'll keep monitoring things but it all looks good at the moment.

I've been reading on another forum E46fanatics another solution using all genuine parts.
Apparently there is a variant of engine in the USA called an M56 SULEV. It's for ultra clean states but it has done away with the rubbish CCV and has a CCV built into the valve cover which is metal not plastic. The outlet from the valve cover that used to go to the CCV just has a pipe that goes to the large inlet on the air distribution piece. It has a different dipstick tube with no oil return inlet.

I guess the parts could be obtained outside the USA but at a cost, on the other thread they are buying them second hand from breakers. Worth investigating?

[xLukas]

Yep I've seen his video and his post. I did actually end up connecting the other end of the distribution piece like Jason did, just like in the picture below. The main reason I didn't go with a catch can is because I have one on my 540, and unless you take it off daily to empty it, it will freeze over and you'll have issues. With my setup I haven't burned a drop of oil and my oil cap is clean from any yellow goop.
As far as your other question about how I got my air distribution piece off, I sprayed PB penetrating oil down each of the plastic tabs that go into the intake where the O rings are, let that sit for a couple minutes then used a pry bar to gently pry up each individual tab, I didn't use too much force, maybe try gently tapping on a pry bar.

Could you post a picture of your actual t-valve fitting?

It equaled out the pressure as well, correct?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[Doru]

An elegant solution would be to retrofit the sulev valve cover from the M56 engine. The valve cover is aluminum, has apparently a N62 CCV valve, but the cover has to be removed to access it. There is only one hose that goes out from the top of the valve cover and attaches to the intake manifold, meaning, you either take a sulev manifold (I wouldn't because the M56 is for a 325 car, so I think it's more restrictive) or one would just cap off the original intake manifold where the other original CCV hoses get attached to it. Also, I wouldn't bother with a new dipstick, just cap off the original CCV connection. Here is a detailed post on e46 fanatics. Be sure you read to the very end, where I posted a few tidbits.

Here is how that valve cover looks with the only 1 hose attached to the intake manifold. You can see where the CCV valve is lodged on the top - the black round plastic cap:

11004371_848619815176002_95021070_n.jpg

[Perern]

An elegant solution would be to retrofit the sulev valve cover from the M56 engine. The valve cover is aluminum, has apparently a N62 CCV valve, but the cover has to be removed to access it. There is only one hose that goes out from the top of the valve cover and attaches to the intake manifold, meaning, you either take a sulev manifold (I wouldn't because the M56 is for a 325 car, so I think it's more restrictive) or one would just cap off the original intake manifold where the other original CCV hoses get attached to it. Also, I wouldn't bother with a new dipstick, just cap off the original CCV connection. Here is a detailed post on e46 fanatics. Be sure you read to the very end, where I posted a few tidbits.

Here is how that valve cover looks with the only 1 hose attached to the intake manifold. You can see where the CCV valve is lodged on the top - the black round plastic cap:

11004371_848619815176002_95021070_n.jpg

Looks like it isn't plug and play on the M52TU, something about different DME wiring for the coils

[TX S3]

someone put this on sticky please

[Wolfen]

someone put this on sticky please

Agreed. Excellent thread. Im supposed there is not even more interest in it as this is an excellent mod and does away with the problematic ccv system that has been plaguing bmw enthusiasts for decades.

[Wolfen]

Hey everyone,
Spent the last few days pouring over bmw m54 ccv, oil seperator, pcv discussions, trying to understand ccv delete.

Today i tore down my 2002 525i so i could look at the ccv, which i found drenched in oil and probably leaking/broken.
Also i didnt see any mayo, I'm guessing cause im California and its not cold like you guys on the east coast.
I would like to perform the delete since i feel my ccv is going bad and the engine is consuming more and more oil between oil changes.

The following is what i understand of the ccv delete..is it correct?
A. Blocking the ccv dip stick hose
B. Remove the ccv
C. Connect remaining hoses to a closed system within the intake manifold/air distribution connector (Valve cover hose, Return pipe and Upper CCV line)

One thing Ive read again and again is the vacuum pressure seems to be increased, but so far it hasn't been a huge issue and/or the effects haven't been noticed.
With my limited knowledge, it seems the pressure is increased because the CCV dip stick tube is now blocked, not allowing pressure to circulate from the valve cover to the bottom of engine. Its the one thing different in this changed system. Does that sounds plausible?

Would it be possible to run the valve cover hose down towards where the ccv was, insert a T-junction then run a hose back up to the intake manifold. Somewhere the PCV would be inserted of course. Im guessing near the upper end of the hose right before it connects to the manifold.
If this is possible i think it might solve two issues. (see attached image)
1. It would allow oil to drain down to the dip stick and circulate gases. This would assist the oil to drain down to the T-junction (then to the dip stick) but not back up to the manifold.
2. Equalize/reduce high pressures within the system since now the pressure circulates like the original system with the CCV.

What do you think?


tjunctionjpeg.jpg

That's an Excellent suggestion. Have you had any luck with it?

[atldohc]

Hi guys I am hoping you have some insight or ideas to the issue that I am having. My situation is not exactly the same, as I am running an obd1 s52. I tried the intake manifold vacuum mod as my original issue was heavy smoking after sitting and taking off from a stoplight on hot days. My car was burning about 1 quart/1k miles. I figured while our engines have some differences they are close enough in design to try an easy fix. I have tried the e36 obd2 ccv with slight improvement, as well as changing my valve seals. But it wasn't until I did the vacuum straight to the crankcase mod that I found all noticeable smoking disappear. I've run this way for about a week now with seemingly stronger acceleration and overall smoother operation. Unfortunately I have recently noticed my oil pressure light flicker at a hot idle. The obvious suspect is too much crankcase vacuum. I have read that high levels of crankcase vacuum can lower oil pressure due to the vacuum sucking oil out of exit points, and also resisting the oil pump's ability to suction oil up through the pickup tube. I am running 5/8 hoses and the pcv valve recommended in post#37 of the ccv delete thread. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=601440&page=2
I guess the question I am asking is if you guys have had any luck in trying different pcv valves, to limit/achieve less vacuum to the crankcase. I have been unable to think of a type of valve or regulator to decrease the vacuum level applied while keeping a good amount of volume/airflow. Here is some pics of my setup. I will likely get rid of the catchcan as I have read there is usually not much oil collecting in there anyways, as well as a lot of water collecting in the wintertime.(This has been my experience with the catchcan in the past)

[Wolfen]

Hi guys I am hoping you have some insight or ideas to the issue that I am having. My situation is not exactly the same, as I am running an obd1 s52. I tried the intake manifold vacuum mod as my original issue was heavy smoking after sitting and taking off from a stoplight on hot days. My car was burning about 1 quart/1k miles. I figured while our engines have some differences they are close enough in design to try an easy fix. I have tried the e36 obd2 ccv with slight improvement, as well as changing my valve seals. But it wasn't until I did the vacuum straight to the crankcase mod that I found all noticeable smoking disappear. I've run this way for about a week now with seemingly stronger acceleration and overall smoother operation. Unfortunately I have recently noticed my oil pressure light flicker at a hot idle. The obvious suspect is too much crankcase vacuum. I have read that high levels of crankcase vacuum can lower oil pressure due to the vacuum sucking oil out of exit points, and also resisting the oil pump's ability to suction oil up through the pickup tube. I am running 5/8 hoses and the pcv valve recommended in post#37 of the ccv delete thread. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=601440&page=2
I guess the question I am asking is if you guys have had any luck in trying different pcv valves, to limit/achieve less vacuum to the crankcase. I have been unable to think of a type of valve or regulator to decrease the vacuum level applied while keeping a good amount of volume/airflow. Here is some pics of my setup. I will likely get rid of the catchcan as I have read there is usually not much oil collecting in there anyways, as well as a lot of water collecting in the wintertime.(This has been my experience with the catchcan in the past)

Are you running the PCV valve recommended in this thread? Or are you on a catch can system right now?

[xLukas]

I will be working on a small update this upcoming week to further balance out this system, everything is currently working perfectly with no problems, but I want to connect the other end of the Air distributor like Jason5Driver mentioned above, I will use a brass T fitting to connect another small hose to the part that I blocked off with a red plastic cap, soon as I have the supplies I will post more pictures.

EDIT::: I also forgot to mention, the Brass T fitting should have slightly smaller openings inside so that should slightly lower the vacuum pressure to match closer to the OEM CCV system, which is another positive thing to come from this update.

Here is what I intend to use and a rough sketch of where I'm placing this in the system:

I did the CCV bypass today. I did not do the t-valve. Is this detrimental? Have you noticed any benefit of the t-valve versus without?