M54-M52TU DIY Solution to the troublesome CCV system, (Pic Heavy)

[mjbennett9]

UPDATE: I got out of work early today, so decided to do the fix early evening instead. It went VERY quickly. I even changed out the air distribution orings too (and cleaned out the 6 inlet openings as well). Unfortunately, I moved the OEM tubing a little too much and it cracked. However, this was a blessing in disguise as where it cracked (pics), was a PERFECT fit for the 3/8 hose, so I never needed the 3/8 to 1/4 coupler. :-)

Being impatient, I needed validation of the fix. While I din't want to drive around locally at night for an hour or two, I went for a "quick" 89.5 mile highway trip. 27.6MPG which is a good indication my city mileage will be ok as well. But i'll try that tomorrow. On long hauls, like when I go to KY in a few weeks, I'm expecting upwards of 30 to 32MPG easily. That's what I got in the past as well. I am hoping my local MPG goes back to 20.5 in the city. time will tell. Anyway, below mod I think is the best CCV to PCV setup. OMO :-D

[mjbennett9]

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[bimmerfiver]

+1
Eliminating that OEM hose all together might be a great idea.
So here's what we all need...
You've done a great thing, eliminating the OEM CCV.
I might duplicate this, as you can see what I did with my Oil Catch Can:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ch-Can-Install

Please post here, in your thread, the list of parts/part numbers you used.
You have a new PCV Valve...who makes it, what's the part number?
You have 3/4" hose from the crankcase, to the PCV Valve, correct?
Then it reduces to 3/8" hose, correct?
Then it meets the brass 'T', correct?
What is the brass 'T' part number and what are it's opening's diameters?

You'll have a clean DIY at that point.

I listed the how-to for the Oil Catch Can, a mod which has:
A. Made my car run like a top - idle is super quiet, and little, baby I6's pep is back.
B. Increased my gas mileage from 21 AVG to 24.5 AVG
C. Increased suction at the oil filler cap and oil dipstick tremendously.
D. Caused me to have to clean out the Oil Catch Can every few days - so I am considering your Mod above...

[mjbennett9]

Ok another update! LOL. While my hwy was pretty good, my city was back to pre-PCV mileage of 15mpg. But the first tankful or so of post-PCV conversion I was at 20.5 - and as you all know, there was a vacuum leak somewhere in the new setup. I fixed that last night. However, (a) mileage was not better, and (b) someone on the forum pointed out I should have a suction sound after shutting the car off when pulling the dipstick--I did not (after first tank post-PCV). So something changed. Anecdotal evidence, but I believe it was a couple of things, likely three (which I've fixed two):

1. After shutting car off, I immediately jumped to front of car (hood already open), and I could hear hissing. First thought was a bad VCG, but zero oil and it's a year old at most (although no guarantees there). By then, vacuum/hiss was gone. Started up car again, and let run a few minutes. Shut off and ran to front. Rinse and repeat several times as I tried to located hiss. EVentually I tried pushing and prodding on all the new PCV connections--all were good. However! The vent hose connection out of the Valve cover, when I pushed on it; boom, no air/hiss. Now that is a brand new part (within 6 weeks). What I observed is that the 3/4" hose section between the VC and the PCV was tight/pulling. Tugging on the vent hose connection which upon inspection, was visibly at an angle. So I added 1/8" of an inch longer hose.

2. When I went to install everything back and push in the vent hose to the VC, I noticed the oring warping/stretching, in a not normal way. Ok, I'm thinking new vent hose bad. Upon inspection, the ORING was bone dry. I added clean oil all over the Oring, and it install perfectly.

3. Started up car, ran, shut off, back to front, 90% of hiss is gone. The remainder is faint but noticeable. Best I can tell, it's the Oil fill cap, and I suspect I should replace the gasket, for I think $5. However, it is 90% better.

Next I need to drive around some more and do another mileage check/test. But the vacuum leak is better. Odd though, no codes thrown, highway mileage pretty close to normal, and CCV test with zip lock baggy seemed to indicate all was ok. I suspect that test is only good to see if there's vacuum, or no vacuum, or worse, air blowing out. But it's not a good test for is all the vacuum there. :-) I'll look into a vacuum gauge, although not sure where I would have hooked it up since I needed to remove a section of vacuum to fix it. Maybe attach to dip stick to test vacuum amount?

Anyway, very good progress. Note though. I think folks might want to check their vent hose connection to the VC even if they are not using PCV as same oring issue could cause problems on a CCV. Folks here might want to consider adding oil to the oring on a CCV install, or whenever putting back the vent hose to VC?

Vid of the hissing if interested... https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...nt=video%2cmp4

Question. How long after the car is shut off, should I be able to pull the dipstick and hear vacuum/air leak out? While I fixed 90% of the leak, at most, vacuum remains for about 30 seconds.

- - - Updated - - -

+1
Eliminating that OEM hose all together might be a great idea.
So here's what we all need...
You've done a great thing, eliminating the OEM CCV.
I might duplicate this, as you can see what I did with my Oil Catch Can:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ch-Can-Install

Please post here, in your thread, the list of parts/part numbers you used.
You have a new PCV Valve...who makes it, what's the part number?
You have 3/4" hose from the crankcase, to the PCV Valve, correct?
Then it reduces to 3/8" hose, correct?
Then it meets the brass 'T', correct?
What is the brass 'T' part number and what are it's opening's diameters?

You'll have a clean DIY at that point.

I listed the how-to for the Oil Catch Can, a mod which has:
A. Made my car run like a top - idle is super quiet, and little, baby I6's pep is back.
B. Increased my gas mileage from 21 AVG to 24.5 AVG
C. Increased suction at the oil filler cap and oil dipstick tremendously.
D. Caused me to have to clean out the Oil Catch Can every few days - so I am considering your Mod above...

Hi,

I can't take credit, as I borrowed the best bits and pieces from everyone. But honestly, I think what I have is the best so far (again, based upon and full credit to all those before me). :-) and I do think a catch can would make it even better, but I just don't know if I want the high maintenance of it.

I'll try and work on the parts list. it's mostly all here, but one clean thread with all the updates, would be nice.

- - - Updated - - -

Happy Dance time! The last tweak worked. I did another city drive, and it was slightly under 20MPG. Which is AWESOME. While I've been at 15/16, at best I was 18'ish. Post-PCV conversion (and tweaks), about 20. Cannot complain! I still plan on doing a new oil cap and gasket--just in case, and hopefully get vacuum at 100%. I'm very happy camper :-)

[mjbennett9]

I think my last update (for now). Another day looking good. Did another 95 miles today (highway). 80'ish MPG with AC on, and about 5 miles off idling in traffic getting to the highway. was just under 27MPG. I'm very happy. I know on longer non-stop trips, I'll get closer to 30/32MPG (i'll know in 2 weeks when going KY). I ordered new oil cap and gasket as a precaution.

[BavarianE39]

Came back after a 2 week long business trip and checked this thread, wow it has really taken off, glad to see people have modified this DIY to sort out any issues, that's exactly what I wanted to see.

Amazingly I have not modified mine since day one, other than attaching both sides of the air distribution piece. I have gone through 2 oil changes now and happy to report that not a single drop of oil has been burnt, oil cap is clean, and the engine runs smooth as silk. Had a similar bump in MPG like others have reported, maybe 2-4 MPG average, same results for my neighbors 330i that received the same treatment.

Thank you to everyone who keeps chiming in with new ideas and updates on how this PCV mod has been working for them and how we can improve it. And thanks mjbennett9 for the detailed updates and pictures. Can't wait to see more people give this a try.

[taggart]

Also want to share my results on this excellent modification! With the 4-year old cold climate CCV, I was having to add a quart every 3-4000 miles. Black soot noted whenever I wiped the tailpipe. Now with the PCV system, the oil level remained constant at 6k miles now! Tail pipe has very little soot if any. I kept mine without connecting the front port of the distribution piece. Except for a bit of engine stumbling(only happened once) and a bit of white smoke a few minutes after cold startup at 55deg below after doing this mod, I don't have anything bad to report. Gas mileage didn't change much but maybe it's due to the short trips(3 miles) I normally take. Two thumbs up!!!

[Themuzz]

Let me ask hopefully a stupid easy question please. How did you choose which spring tension value on the pcv valve or did you just choose anyone that would fit the 3/4 hose? Thank I am about to do this setup but I think I am going to try a 90 deg pcv as they are supposed to be facing vertical to work properly. Thanks in advance!

[mcgnms]

BavarianE39, we pretty much copied your design and idea on an M54. Oil consumption has been reduced from over a quart every 2000 miles to....zero.

What I still cannot figure out is why M52's do not consume oil. Don't they have a rather similar system? Regardless, the new system probably causes more crankcase vacuum than before. The engine this was done on had a rear main seal that just started leaking. It has now stopped. Please send a refund on the cost of a new transmission jack

Thank you for the write-up!

[BavarianE39]

BavarianE39, we pretty much copied your design and idea on an M54. Oil consumption has been reduced from over a quart every 2000 miles to....zero.

What I still cannot figure out is why M52's do not consume oil. Don't they have a rather similar system? Regardless, the new system probably causes more crankcase vacuum than before. The engine this was done on had a rear main seal that just started leaking. It has now stopped. Please send a refund on the cost of a new transmission jack

Thank you for the write-up!

Glad I can help, this forum has helped me solve a ton of problems on all my vehicles, the least I could do is contribute back!

[Bartine]

My thanks to all here.

I had bought a 2003 525i. While very well maintained, it was burning oil like crazy. I had just bought the parts for an EOM CCV replacement when I found this thread.

We will see if all the oil consumption is fixed, but it is definitely running very smoothly now. There was also a "whine" when I was running it earlier, and that is gone.

I think it I'll run it for another week or so, then return all the parts!

[TerraPhantm]

What I still cannot figure out is why M52's do not consume oil. Don't they have a rather similar system?

My guess is the piston rings on the M54 (apparently some sort of low friction rings)

[BavarianE39]

My thanks to all here.

I had bought a 2003 525i. While very well maintained, it was burning oil like crazy. I had just bought the parts for an EOM CCV replacement when I found this thread.

We will see if all the oil consumption is fixed, but it is definitely running very smoothly now. There was also a "whine" when I was running it earlier, and that is gone.

I think it I'll run it for another week or so, then return all the parts!

Sweet, let us know how it goes, all feedback is appreciated!

[Jason5driver]

My guess is the piston rings on the M54 (apparently some sort of low friction rings)

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=761124

[Bartine]

I had been burning through a quart of oil per tank in heavy city driving. I drive 50-75 miles a day. Since the change I haven't burned a drop of oil.

For my change, I wanted the second connection to be used, but couldn't figure out a good way to hook a hose to it. So - I used the existing connector for my attachment from the brass T. I put a 3/8 hose to the smaller connecting point.

For the larger connecting point, I bought a 3/4" "plug" at the auto parts store. I arranged the connector so the plug was pointing down, and the small point lined up nicely with my T adapter. Picture below.

20151107_120957.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

One question - yesterday, in traffic, the red oil light started flashing. The car had plenty of oil.

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks again for the great information!

[BavarianE39]

I had been burning through a quart of oil per tank in heavy city driving. I drive 50-75 miles a day. Since the change I haven't burned a drop of oil.

For my change, I wanted the second connection to be used, but couldn't figure out a good way to hook a hose to it. So - I used the existing connector for my attachment from the brass T. I put a 3/8 hose to the smaller connecting point.

For the larger connecting point, I bought a 3/4" "plug" at the auto parts store. I arranged the connector so the plug was pointing down, and the small point lined up nicely with my T adapter. Picture below.

<img src="http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=554062"/>

- - - Updated - - -

One question - yesterday, in traffic, the red oil light started flashing. The car had plenty of oil.

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks again for the great information!

Had plenty of occurrences where the oil pressure sensor went bad, could try replacing that first.

[blarf]

BTW another solution that popped up on the E46 forums was to swap over the M56 valve cover. It looks like this works best with the MS45 powered cars, but is doable with the MS42/3 ones if you do a bit of rewiring for the coils. The M56 valve cover is metal and has the PCV junk inside of it. It looks like it's not designed to be serviced, but it may be possible to replace the cyclone doohickey with one from a newer motor. Unfortunately the price for a new valve cover has gone up significantly, likely BMW has only a few valve covers left (although they're still on the hook for warranty service for the last of the M56 powered 325s).

[BavarianE39]

BTW another solution that popped up on the E46 forums was to swap over the M56 valve cover. It looks like this works best with the MS45 powered cars, but is doable with the MS42/3 ones if you do a bit of rewiring for the coils. The M56 valve cover is metal and has the PCV junk inside of it. It looks like it's not designed to be serviced, but it may be possible to replace the cyclone doohickey with one from a newer motor. Unfortunately the price for a new valve cover has gone up significantly, likely BMW has only a few valve covers left (although they're still on the hook for warranty service for the last of the M56 powered 325s).

I've also seen the M56 valve cover mentioned before but like you said, the prices have shot up. This DIY has been working flawlessly for me for almost a year now, and if I ever need to replace the PCV valve, its 5 minutes of work and less than $5 for the part.

[blarf]

I've also seen the M56 valve cover mentioned before but like you said, the prices have shot up. This DIY has been working flawlessly for me for almost a year now, and if I ever need to replace the PCV valve, its 5 minutes of work and less than $5 for the part.

For sure, a generic solution is cheaper (and probably easier to get a replacement for). Getting to the PCV valve on the M56 valve cover looks like it would only take a couple minutes. If that E60 valve works, it'd only cost about $20.

[sterling msport]

Long time lurker of bimmerforums first time poster! But I had these same issues, used a quart of oil every 7-1000 miles then I found this thread. I did things a little differently though.

I didn't like the idea of the red cap for the distribution piece so while I was at autozone finding the other hose clamps and lines I needed along with the pcv valve I stumbled upon a pcv elbow for a Ford that fit PERFECTLY over the whole port. The only downside to this was since it was an elbow I had to route it under the fingers of the distribution piece then route that out to the T fitting. I used a union to connect the elbow to the 3/8 line for the T.

I'm sure I have the boxes or can get the specific part number if there is interest in this little modification to the original post. So far 0 leaks, 0 oil used, mpg stayed the same, and like 2k miles!!

[BavarianE39]

Long time lurker of bimmerforums first time poster! But I had these same issues, used a quart of oil every 7-1000 miles then I found this thread. I did things a little differently though.

I didn't like the idea of the red cap for the distribution piece so while I was at autozone finding the other hose clamps and lines I needed along with the pcv valve I stumbled upon a pcv elbow for a Ford that fit PERFECTLY over the whole port. The only downside to this was since it was an elbow I had to route it under the fingers of the distribution piece then route that out to the T fitting. I used a union to connect the elbow to the 3/8 line for the T.

I'm sure I have the boxes or can get the specific part number if there is interest in this little modification to the original post. So far 0 leaks, 0 oil used, mpg stayed the same, and like 2k miles!!

That's great to hear! Feel free to post pictures or preferably product numbers so others can use this setup, any improvements will help others with this diy.

[Poolman]

For giggle, someone who has a scanner that can read long term fuel trends and has switched over to this set up,,would you check those LTFT and see what your running.

[BavarianE39]

Is fuel trim data visible in INPA? I can take a look if you like, is that fuel data under: A-Reg Patrol adaptation? For anyone who knows?
***EDIT***
Found it, in INPA long term fuel trim is called "Adaption Value Multiplacative" I will take a look tomorrow at the trims when I have a chance and see if I can find a regular M54 powered car that's still running the regular CCV to see if there are any deviations.

[sterling msport]

Found the part boxes for the elbow and the barb unions

[sterling msport]

Got a ses light on the other night, had it the first time I started the car up after this Diy and figured it was the o-rings on the air distribution piece. Finally replaced them last night so hopefully that clears the lean mixture bank 1 and 2 codes it was throwing